VATS, 1990 Camaro, Won't Start

My son-in-law has a 1990 Camarro that won't turn over.

He never had problems with this before, but one day he parked it at the mall and when he came out it would't turn over. A month later it is still the same.

The computer codes say it is the VAT system (Vehicle Anti-Theft). I knew nothing about the VAT system when I started helping him, apparently I still don't know enough.

We checked the resistance OHMs on the key and they read fine.
We have replaced the ignition switch.
The OHMs at the connector (just below the steering column) read zero, and we have been unable to find a broken wire or what else might cause this problem.

We tried inserting a resistor with the same OHMs as the key (from Radio Shack), like they suggest for a remote starter but that did not help.

We can run a jump wire to the starter to turn it over, but that does not get the fuel pumping or start the car.

Short of towing the car to a dealer (which we really don't want to do), I don't know what to do.

Does anyone have a good ideas or knowlege on how to help us?

Even a temporary idea on how to start the car one time so we can get it out of the parking lot of his work (were he pushed the car a month ago) would be helpful.


Thanks,

sorry to hear about that. That really sucks. I dont know anything more to tell you. One thing i can say is post on Camaroz28.com it is much more widely used and there are lots of knowledagable people there. good luck

My son-in-law has a 1990 Camarro that won't turn over.

He never had problems with this before, but one day he parked it at the mall and when he came out it would't turn over. A month later it is still the same.

The computer codes say it is the VAT system (Vehicle Anti-Theft). I knew nothing about the VAT system when I started helping him, apparently I still don't know enough.

We checked the resistance OHMs on the key and they read fine.
We have replaced the ignition switch.
The OHMs at the connector (just below the steering column) read zero, and we have been unable to find a broken wire or what else might cause this problem.

We tried inserting a resistor with the same OHMs as the key (from Radio Shack), like they suggest for a remote starter but that did not help.

We can run a jump wire to the starter to turn it over, but that does not get the fuel pumping or start the car.

Short of towing the car to a dealer (which we really don't want to do), I don't know what to do.

Does anyone have a good ideas or knowlege on how to help us?

Even a temporary idea on how to start the car one time so we can get it out of the parking lot of his work (were he pushed the car a month ago) would be helpful.


Thanks,

Something bothers me about this..you checked the resistance of the wires from the look cylinder and got 0 ohms?
you should have gotten some sort of resistance reading.
Did you replace the ignition switch or the ignition lock cylinder and key..the new cylinder should have come with a blank key...you will need to read the resistance of the old key to get the proper replacement key cut to the new cylinder..

Something bothers me about this..you checked the resistance of the wires from the look cylinder and got 0 ohms?
you should have gotten some sort of resistance reading.
Did you replace the ignition switch or the ignition lock cylinder and key..the new cylinder should have come with a blank key...you will need to read the resistance of the old key to get the proper replacement key cut to the new cylinder..

Yep, I was thinking the same. When you replaced the ignition switch, it did come with the 2 little tiny wires too didn't it? The only way to bypass it is to get a matching resistor value that the key has, then cut the VATS wires in half and the wires that lead back under the dash to the BCM (not ignition) you will install the resistor. If you try too many times with the wrong code, it will lock you out for 15 minutes.

and if i remember correctly, there is a VATS fuse in the block underneath the dash on the driver's side

well there is definately something that your computer thinks is wrong, what happens quite often is that the two wires from the lock cylender break, and the reading is infinate ohms, if you get 0 ohms, something was done wrong. its too hard to do this over the internet, you have to diagnose this kind of problem in person, if you dont want to tow it to the dealer, kidnap a tech and force him at gunpoint to fix it. i recomend an electronics master tech ;)

Thanks Everyone for your suggestions.

I did not change the Ignition switch, my son-in law and his friend did, so I am not sure if they did it correctly. They did not change the lock set.

I measured the resistance from those two wires coming off the steering column and got zero. The key and the resistor I spliced into those wires read the same Ohms. I spliced the resistor in the two wires than come from the lockset (two small wire about 20 gauge one was purple I think) just beyond the connector. I did not know which one to splice the resistor into, so I tried one and later the other.

I am aware of the VATS fuse, it is still good. I am aware of the lock out problem, which makes it difficult to test the car. From what I read, this occurred every time the VATS got the wrong reading and the lockout time was ten minutes.

I will also try to do a post at Camaroz28.com.

Ponchonutty**What does BCM stand for?

Thanks everyone for your help, I will keep on trying some more. Sooner or later we will figure it out.

BCM = Body Control Module, its a computer that handles all the funtions and options inside the car. intereor lights, radio, airbags, door chimes, ignition circuits, all that stuff.

Thanks Everyone for your suggestions.

I did not change the Ignition switch, my son-in law and his friend did, so I am not sure if they did it correctly. They did not change the lock set.

I measured the resistance from those two wires coming off the steering column and got zero. The key and the resistor I spliced into those wires read the same Ohms. I spliced the resistor in the two wires than come from the lockset (two small wire about 20 gauge one was purple I think) just beyond the connector. I did not know which one to splice the resistor into, so I tried one and later the other.

I am aware of the VATS fuse, it is still good. I am aware of the lock out problem, which makes it difficult to test the car. From what I read, this occurred every time the VATS got the wrong reading and the lockout time was ten minutes.

I will also try to do a post at Camaroz28.com.

Ponchonutty**What does BCM stand for?

Thanks everyone for your help, I will keep on trying some more. Sooner or later we will figure it out.
I posted a lengthy reply but it didn't take??? Oh well, they are right what a BCM does. On new cars they can be pretty scary but on these old cars they are pretty simple.

Anyway, you need to take what ever that resistance is in the key and hook it to the wires that go to the BCM and NOT the ignition key. I think you had it the other way around from what I had read. Also, if you can not get the resistance right on, try going a little higher versus lower. That being done, the car HAS to start.

Well, it has been a while since I posted to this forum. The Camero still doesn't start. I measured the resistance and tried various resistors. I even followed the purple and white wire across the car over by the BCM and tried the resistors there. Still the car doesn't start. Perhaps there is a problem with the BCM. I don't get a chance to work on the car very often. Any other Ideas? Should i be able to read the resistance value coming from the BCM?

no you can only read the signal voltage coming out from the bcm...a quick fix would be to run a power wire from the battery to the starter through a switch in the car, we fixed my friend's rx-7 by doin that, just make sure that if you decide to do it to get a switch rated for the current that will be going through it...

Well, it has been a while since I posted to this forum. The Camero still doesn't start. I measured the resistance and tried various resistors. I even followed the purple and white wire across the car over by the BCM and tried the resistors there. Still the car doesn't start. Perhaps there is a problem with the BCM. I don't get a chance to work on the car very often. Any other Ideas? Should i be able to read the resistance value coming from the BCM?
Have you ever tested the wires comming down out of the column for the proper resistance yet? What ever your meter reads, that should be the same on the key. Just follow those wires in the yellow sheith to where they go to the plug. Unplug it and read the side that goes towards the column with the key in the ignition. The key doesn't need to be "on" but just fully inserted.

If I remember right, on some VATS cars, if you just leave the ignition key on for 15min. straight, then try to start, it should turn over.

Keep in mind there is also a VATS relay.. I believe its on the driverside firewall.. but im not sureon that..

The two little orange wires that go into the lockset are prone to tug loose inside.. You haveto change the lockset and make sure to run the small wires carefully down the steering column so you dont pull them loose inside again.. and instal the little grey pushtab on the two orange wires that make sure there is enough slack left by the switch to account for movement in the steering column

What did you mean when you said he changed the ignition switch, not the lockset?

You could just take it to a dealer and have them put it on an interrogator.. It only takes a few minutes and it will tell you if your switch or key is faulty
Chevyracincamaro, that wont work because the VATS also controls fuel delivery so the car will turn over but will not run