Explorer not starting

I have a 1994 explorer that will not start. The fuel pump is operating and I am getting fuel to the injector rail at 38psi. I also have ignition at the spark plugs. Listened to the injectors and there is no clicking and there is no voltage at the plug for the injector. I am looking for a wiring diagram for the EEC system and any ideas on the reason the injectors are not working. HELP!!!!!

There should be 12V measured at the injectors. Power comes from the EEC relay which could be bad. There is a seperate switch for providing power durring start and run position. The red wire is the 12V line on the injector. The tan and white ones go to the computer.

Hi I have a question on hard starting when warm on the same vehicle. I had the fuel pump assembly replaced due to corrosion on the lines. It runs great now but when warm it no longer starts on the first two cranks. I can either do the off and run position to prime the pump prior to cranking twice and it starts faster of just let it crank a couple of seconds. Any ideas on what to check for first? It passed emission testing with lots of head room and idles and runs smooth. I checked the seal on the tube from the throttle to air cleaner and its tight and clean. I guess the first check is the fuel reg pressure prior to start? Is there a pressure port to easily connect to for that? If that is ok whats next? Has 95k miles and the connectors are clean and show no corrosion. I just replaced the EGR diff sensor other than that all parts stock. Thanks.

One possible problem is the fuel pressure regulator leakdown. Fuel pressure should be 39# prior to starting and should be able to hold that pressure over 30 for at least 30 minutes. Otherwise bubble forms when hot and causes hard starting. There is a check valve in the pump that can also leak as well as injectors. With good emissions, injectors are probably ok. Pump is new, but the check valve could be leaking. I replaced a pump on a Jeep and the pump fell off the rubber hose. Factory had never tightened the clamp. Maybe your clamp wasn't when it was replaced.

There is basically a bicycle valve on the fuel rail that you can measure pressure on. I found it better to unscrew the valve to get accurate readings. My tester doesn't always push in the valve far enough.

Thanks for quick reply. I will check the pressure and leak down rate. The fuel pump rubber hose clamps were checked and tight. Possible the check valve within pump is not checking. I will test and let you know. I will really hate to pull tank out again to try new pump assembly. Is there a way to put check valve near regualtor up by rail as option?