97 Blazer probs!!

I have had nothing but problems with this vehicle since the transmission went. There was no 2nd,4th or Reverse. Had it rebuilt, along with a tune up and various other odd items. Took it to inspection and it failed emissions. Took it to a mechanic who had a computer. He said that due to all that was done previously the computer in the truck didnt register everything and to drive it for awhile. Then the heater died, had that fixed. Then the engine light came on. Then the truck would only start when it felt like it!! Didnt make a difference if it was cold or colder!! It started when the temp was 21 but not when it was in the 30's and vice versa. I would turn the key and all the dash lights would come on, but nothing else. Took it back again, and now there is a P1300 code that has no meaning!!! They cant find anyone that knows what it is. Any suggestions???
Thanking you in advance .. and hoping the darn truck starts in the morning ..

if mine the first thing i would check, are all electrical conections good,
and cleaned ,,do you know the past history of car??? lotta miles, rental,
etc, are a lot of parts on the truck not original( wreak rebuild) do you
have a second car :lol2: :lol2:

if mine the first thing i would check, are all electrical conections good,
and cleaned ,,do you know the past history of car??? lotta miles, rental,
etc, are a lot of parts on the truck not original( wreak rebuild) do you
have a second car :lol2: :lol2:

Well, according to the mechanic who has had it on his computer, all is fine except for this P1300 code and the engine light on!! The truck is over 100,000 miles, has had all of the other work mentioned in the other post but only starts when the spirit moves her!! And yes I have another vehicle .. however I need to leave that home for my daughter. I cant ride my bike with all the snow and ice!!! lol

I like elec. probs but I need more specifics-you said the dash lites come on but nothing else-does the truck not turn over at all or does it turn over and not start?

i don't have anything rattling around in my head right now , there are
some factory tech's that check in, be carefull on the bike in the snow :screwy: :lol2: :smokin:

I like elec. probs but I need more specifics-you said the dash lites come on but nothing else-does the truck not turn over at all or does it turn over and not start?
Bronco,
On the days she decides not to start, and that has not been consistant with cold weather, the key turns all the way, all the dash lights come on ... and nothing .. no whine .. no cranking .. nothing ... just dead silence!! The computer that the mechanic had it on showed a P1300 code that he knows nothing about other than it may have to do with the ignition.

Questions sometimes bring answers::: is there a/or a few connectors
around the neu. safety switch :screwy: :screwy:

I think you have 2 seperate problems-the turning over part is not hooked into the ECM to set a code.The best way to diagnose this problem is when the truck doesn't turn over-anything else is guess work. Do you do any of your own work? I'm assuming the truck will turn over when it feels like it without a jump start,so we can probably eliminate a battery problem. Connections and cables are also a possibilty. Try starting it with the headlites on and watch the headlites-if they go out this indicates a problem on the pos. cable side. Bad starter solonoids usually at least click even if they don't power the starter. Since you hear nothing I'm thinking the solonoid is not getting power to engage. This leaves 2 likely areas-either the ignition switch itself or the neutral safety switch (auto trans) or clutch safety switch (manual trans) This is about the best I can do without hooking the meter to it. Get this fixed,clear the code and drive it untill the lite comes back on and go from there. Hope this was some help.

Questions sometimes bring answers::: is there a/or a few connectors
around the neu. safety switch :screwy: :screwy:

Just exactly where would that switch be??
TIA ... Carla

I think you have 2 seperate problems-the turning over part is not hooked into the ECM to set a code.The best way to diagnose this problem is when the truck doesn't turn over-anything else is guess work. Do you do any of your own work? I'm assuming the truck will turn over when it feels like it without a jump start,so we can probably eliminate a battery problem. Connections and cables are also a possibilty. Try starting it with the headlites on and watch the headlites-if they go out this indicates a problem on the pos. cable side. Bad starter solonoids usually at least click even if they don't power the starter. Since you hear nothing I'm thinking the solonoid is not getting power to engage. This leaves 2 likely areas-either the ignition switch itself or the neutral safety switch (auto trans) or clutch safety switch (manual trans) This is about the best I can do without hooking the meter to it. Get this fixed,clear the code and drive it untill the lite comes back on and go from there. Hope this was some help.

Other than checking all the fluids and replacing what is necessary I do none of the work on the truck ... lol I had recently put in a new battery and at that time they checked out all the connections. It is an auto trans but I do not know where the switch you are speaking of is. So far this guy wants to replace the catalytic converter and the ignition, which from what I understand is also going to cost me a lot of money. Someone had suggested disconnecting the battery to see if the computer would reset itself ... what do you think of that idea??

oh so familiar.. lol. I got my 97 Nov 4th.. On Nov 14th the starter blew.. got that fixed then on dEc 5th the tranny blew. also lost 2nd overdrive and reverse. got it fixed and on dec 24th the tranny blew once AGAIN. got that fixed and then there was NO HEAT. ends up its probally the thermostat and i have a new one buts its been TOOOOOO cold to change it. Then after all of that crap my 4x4 wouldnt work, ends up a vacuum hose had accidentally came disconnected during the 2nd tranny rebuild. Then after that was fixed i got this LOUD whining noise that only happens once in a blue moon but i havnt the FOGGYEST what it is...

nothing but problems. i love her though...

Disconnecting the battery may clear the code,but it has nothing to do with "turning over" problem.A bad cat. will not affect the "turning over" prob. The 1300 code is an ignition code,but the ignition won't fire unless the engine turns over,which it doesn't do. The neutral safety switch is on the side of the trans where the shift cable hooks up. The purpose of this switch is to only let the truck start in park or neutral. If the internal connections get weak,it won't send power to the starter.Next time it doesn't turn over try starting it in N and/or pull the shift lever between P and 1 several times. If that gets it turning over the probs. in the switch. Just so you know I am a ASE certified Master Auto Tech,not trying to down your usual mech. and you may have other probs.,but I do not see the parts he wants to replace relating to the major problem .And if 97blazerct reads this,I drive a Ford.They all (Chev.,Ford,Toyota,etc.) burn gas,they all break down.

oh so familiar.. lol. I got my 97 Nov 4th.. On Nov 14th the starter blew.. got that fixed then on dEc 5th the tranny blew. also lost 2nd overdrive and reverse. got it fixed and on dec 24th the tranny blew once AGAIN. got that fixed and then there was NO HEAT. ends up its probally the thermostat and i have a new one buts its been TOOOOOO cold to change it. Then after all of that crap my 4x4 wouldnt work, ends up a vacuum hose had accidentally came disconnected during the 2nd tranny rebuild. Then after that was fixed i got this LOUD whining noise that only happens once in a blue moon but i havnt the FOGGYEST what it is...

nothing but problems. i love her though...
haha, at least my truck will always look pretty while doing do ;-) lol jus kiddin.

my truck isnt too bad on gas though.

-Christine

Disconnecting the battery may clear the code,but it has nothing to do with "turning over" problem.A bad cat. will not affect the "turning over" prob. The 1300 code is an ignition code,but the ignition won't fire unless the engine turns over,which it doesn't do. The neutral safety switch is on the side of the trans where the shift cable hooks up. The purpose of this switch is to only let the truck start in park or neutral. If the internal connections get weak,it won't send power to the starter.Next time it doesn't turn over try starting it in N and/or pull the shift lever between P and 1 several times. If that gets it turning over the probs. in the switch. Just so you know I am a ASE certified Master Auto Tech,not trying to down your usual mech. and you may have other probs.,but I do not see the parts he wants to replace relating to the major problem .And if 97blazerct reads this,I drive a Ford.They all (Chev.,Ford,Toyota,etc.) burn gas,they all break down.
Bronco,
I have actually never used this mechanic before, he is near work and thought I would try him. I will ask him about the neutral safety switch. If the truck is starting sometimes would that mean that the 1300 code is erroneous? I am just trying to get the damn thing through inspection without spending more than I already have.
TIA ... Carla

Carla- the 1300 could be erroneous(my new word of the day)- I don't know the emissions laws in Jersey, but I would disconnect the battery for 12 hours before you take it in. Sometimes,when there is electricty going places it shouldn't, the ECM will set a code,but like most systems,it won't give a specific code because that fault is not in the programming. I think I would have to pass on the guy close to work,it seems that want to replace quick money parts without getting to the core of the problem. The more I look at this it seems to be a ground problem.Do you have a auto electric shop nearby? Question-what does lol mean-I understand TIA, help me on this one,I see it a lot.

Carla- the 1300 could be erroneous(my new word of the day)- I don't know the emissions laws in Jersey, but I would disconnect the battery for 12 hours before you take it in. Sometimes,when there is electricty going places it shouldn't, the ECM will set a code,but like most systems,it won't give a specific code because that fault is not in the programming. I think I would have to pass on the guy close to work,it seems that want to replace quick money parts without getting to the core of the problem. The more I look at this it seems to be a ground problem.Do you have a auto electric shop nearby? Question-what does lol mean-I understand TIA, help me on this one,I see it a lot.

Well first of all .. since you have been so much help .. the lol means laughing out loud. My kids had to tell me that one!! Now .. exactly what would an auto electric shop be?? I would like to just get this thing to pass inspection and then I think I should trade it in!! My son just called me to tell me the 97 Beretta wont start!! I suppose when it rains it pours. TIA Carla

It is a shop that specializes in electrical work. They don"t do mufflers,etc. Many shops don't like elec. because of the time involved. Many elec. problems take hours to find and 10 minutes to fix. Check your local yellow pages or maybe ask at your local parts store. Good luck, let me know if I can be any more help. Thanks for the lol info. Bronco2

carlasfxdl,

I had this same problem with my 1997 blazer, good and bad news for you. It had nothing to do with your trani, I had trani shops telling me that my transmission was going out and wanted me to have them rebuild it, however I knew better that that was not the problem.

Your problem, if it is the same as mine, is your wire harness in your steering column. I replaced that 2 years ago and have not had any problems since. kinda easy to replace.

If you have any questions feel free to e-mail me.

[email protected]

I just bough a 97 Blazer about 6 wks. ago...I thought it was a great deal. The only problem was no overdrive. I don't have to do much highway driving so I just drove it around while waiting for this part (a sensor) for the transmission to come in. Well, it finally came in, was installed, and then the next day I'm driving and I put it from overdrive to third to see if i feel it downshift and there's no third. Third became neutral...put it back in drive and it starts winding and slipping. Could it be that my mechanic didn't disconnect the battery while installing that sensor? Any ideas Bronco?? Oh yeah, before that sensor was put in, the check engine light came on sometimes, now it's on all the time. It's back in the shop now

I know lol -
but what is tia? :smokin:

It is a shop that specializes in electrical work. They don"t do mufflers,etc. Many shops don't like elec. because of the time involved. Many elec. problems take hours to find and 10 minutes to fix. Check your local yellow pages or maybe ask at your local parts store. Good luck, let me know if I can be any more help. Thanks for the lol info. Bronco2

Bronco,
I have found a few of those shops and am trying to coordinate a time to drop it off. Thanks for all the help. Will let you know how I make out.

I know lol -
but what is tia? :smokin:


TIA ... = .... Thanks In Advance!!!

Here's a shot in the dark ... I had a similar experience in very cold weather. Turned the key several times and nothing. On the 5th or 6th try it started no problem. Two weeks later the voltage regulator which is built right into the alternator went bad. This can cause weird things to happen, one of which is the car running right off the battery. If something is loose or wet inside it might work some of the time and not at other times.
The only way to repair this is by switching out the alternator.

You might also double and triple check the connections to your new batttery as there may be some intermittant problem there.