1990 Eclipse no spark & cannot retrieve codes

My 90 Eclipse will not spark or inject fuel at the nozzles. I suspect the computer or the crank position sensor, so I bought an analog volt meter and tried to recover engine trouble codes. Nothing happens, no movement of the needle at all. Engine turns over fast with the starter, battery has 12+ volts. The timing belt is still intact, and turning when the starter is cranked. Fuel rail fills with alot oif gas pressure, but nozzles do not pulse open, as if they are not getting signal. Anyone have any help?????

I'm new to the forum but have been plagued by just about every problem a DSM has to offer.
Only stumped once.Makes it sport if you have no testing tools.
Take out the cam angle sensor and with the key in the on position,turn it.
If you here injector pops,chances are the ECU is good.
But I think a Crank Angle Sensor that does not work will not allow fuel or spark.
I'd check that first.
Always shiny up the battery terminals.
Seriously.

Your car is a 90, has the ECU ever had it's 3 electrolytic capacitors changed. Being 14 years old, I could almost bet that they need to be changed if they haven't been already. It's a very easy fix and considered a long term "maintanence" item in the DSM world.

If the ECU is good, I'd check the CAS. If the CAS is not happy, then the ECU won't let the car start.

Fuel rail fills with alot oif gas pressure, but nozzles do not pulse open, as if they are not getting signal.

Did you pull the fuel rail and crank the motor to see that fuel did or didn't squirt out? Or did you just use the multimeter to measure it?

Another thing often overlooked is the MPI or IGn fuses located on the (+) battery post on a 1g. Make sure those are good.
They hardly ever blow, but it's always better to eliminate possiblilites ya know.

Your car is a 90, has the ECU ever had it's 3 electrolytic capacitors changed. Being 14 years old, I could almost bet that they need to be changed if they haven't been already. It's a very easy fix and considered a long term "maintanence" item in the DSM world.

I am not sure how to tell if the ECU is good. It is a remanufactured one, and it puzzles me that it does not allow me to access trouble codes. (I was expecting a code even if I have no trouble codes registered in the memory) I used a needle volt meter and never saw activity at all. How do I check to determine status of the capacitors?

If the ECU is good, I'd check the CAS. If the CAS is not happy, then the ECU won't let the car start.

The CAS is rumored to cost $350, and has to be special ordered. I wish I knew I had a trouble code specifically saying CAS before I take that plunge.

Did you pull the fuel rail and crank the motor to see that fuel did or didn't squirt out? Or did you just use the multimeter to measure it?

I pulled the fuel rail loose, and checked this having someone turn over the engine for me. It never pulsed fuel, but did eventually pressure up enough to blow 1 fuel injector out into my face.

Another thing often overlooked is the MPI or IGn fuses located on the (+) battery post on a 1g. Make sure those are good.
They hardly ever blow, but it's always better to eliminate possiblilites ya know.

I checked these, but now that you mention it, perhaps I should take them out and plug them back in, just for good measure, and to ensure spades aren't corroded off.

I'm new to the forum but have been plagued by just about every problem a DSM has to offer.
Only stumped once.Makes it sport if you have no testing tools.
Take out the cam angle sensor and with the key in the on position,turn it.
If you here injector pops,chances are the ECU is good.
But I think a Crank Angle Sensor that does not work will not allow fuel or spark.
I'd check that first.
Always shiny up the battery terminals.
Seriously.

If I take that CAS out and turn it, hearing no injector pops, could that mean the CAS & the ECU are still suspect? I have not tried this test yet, but I have had the engine turned over while I held the fuel rail and injectors in my hand, and I never heard nothing while doing that test. I am preoccupied by the inability to retrieve the codes from the computer, as if something powering the computer may be yucky. I am desperately trying to narrow this down to one thing or the other. I expect to try some of these tips later this week, once I finish the 40 hours I have to give the employer.

Some sensors read good in the steadiness of your hand."Shake and finger tap test"to simulate driving conditions.
(If you think I'm credible,I'll have you all shaking and tapping on something)
It is hard to hear while turning the engine over.
With the key on turn CAS,ahhhhhh,you can get rid of your buddy helping because you are already pissed off........Send him home.Maybe even push him down.Just kidding.That never helps.
No pops,pull cas connection and test.
If it reads,Suspect ECU.
If it doesn't read,you just might have the problem right there in your hand.
Battery is good right.Terminals,etc?
I just did another car that was a no start(which most are),CamAS bad and plugs gapped small.
Don't purchase cheap after market wires and the likes.

Battery.
My friend said his car was running bad.
I went over checked the battery and alt.
Says good.
With a load from starter.No good with incorrect voltage going to the voltage hungry components of his 92 GS.
I took the battery out of my truck and his 92 started and ran perfect.
I only use larger truck batteries in my vehicles.
Just a suggestion.

his car turns over he said so it cant be the battery... its gotta be the Cam angle sensor, also away you can check if its your ECU is sit inside the car with all the windows up and doors shut to make it quiet and turn the key to the on position, if you hear your fuel pump turn on then its not the ECU... like i said before its gotta be the CAS cause you said that you had good fuel pressure in the rail, well good luck and let us know what you find out!

Just sharing my experience.
The object is to get this guys' car running.
Covering all bases.
Example.
If I took a 9 volt battery from my smoke alarm,,,,and two AA batteries from my walkman,that would equal 12 volts.
This will not start my car or supply correct voltage,amp values to relays,switches,sensors,fuel,etc.
My friends battery tested good as well as the alternator.
Battery ended up being too tired,amperage,to send correct values to his 92 hungry components.Results,,,,,,,,,No start and if it did start,It ran bad.
Add a radio playing,,,,,,Forget about it.
:2cents:

Do all the basics first to determine the problem. Make sure there is a spark. Check the plugs, then wires. If there is no spark in the wires, check the coil packs (2.0L engine) or distributor (1.8L engine). If there is a spark on all plugs, it may not be sparking at the right moment, hence the CAS. If it is sparking but not combusting, the CAS isn't telling the injectors what position the crankshaft is in. Do you smell any gas? Just because you see the timing belt is still intact doesn't mean it is perfectly inline. The timing marks on the crankshaft will normally tell whether or not your timing has jumped. Take it step by step though. Since you say you have no spark, the first thing you have to do is figure out where the spark isn't reaching. Remember the three things needed for combustion: heat (spark), fuel, and oxygen. Find out which of these is missing.

I have installed a Computer found on Ebay, a used CAS from a junk yard engine, and a brand new 700 Amp battery. Nothing, except I keep blowing o-rings out of various parts of my fuel rail. I am confused now.
Will the computer still send spark and fuel pulse signal if the car has jumped time? I have not verified that timing is good, except that both cams are timed to one another. But my thought is that I would still have spark and squirt, but at the wrong moment, if I had jumped time??
I still have no luck trying to retreive engine damage codes.