lamp dimmer control module help
honeybabes
01-25-2004, 11:49 AM
hi there everyone
this is almost just a repost but I didn't want the provious one to get too long so I post a new thread. These is about my cluster lights that went out completely inlcuding all my illuminations(prndl and ac light) after few blown fuses. I tried putting 15a instead of 5a and after that the lights didn't come on again even when putting 5a. When I checked the wires on the dimmer switch, there are three wires and one of them has 0 v when off and increasing when moved to bright so that one works. Then I followed where that wire goes under the dash and i located that it is connected to lamp dimmer module then i checked that same color wire and it is doung the same thing. but the other wire doensn't have any voltage on them(on lamp dimmer module) so I'm thinking this might be the problem. IS any of you guys had to replace this module before? And it is possible for all the lights connected to this not to turn on if this is broken? any help will be appreciated.
thanks
this is almost just a repost but I didn't want the provious one to get too long so I post a new thread. These is about my cluster lights that went out completely inlcuding all my illuminations(prndl and ac light) after few blown fuses. I tried putting 15a instead of 5a and after that the lights didn't come on again even when putting 5a. When I checked the wires on the dimmer switch, there are three wires and one of them has 0 v when off and increasing when moved to bright so that one works. Then I followed where that wire goes under the dash and i located that it is connected to lamp dimmer module then i checked that same color wire and it is doung the same thing. but the other wire doensn't have any voltage on them(on lamp dimmer module) so I'm thinking this might be the problem. IS any of you guys had to replace this module before? And it is possible for all the lights connected to this not to turn on if this is broken? any help will be appreciated.
thanks
algoesfast
01-25-2004, 12:20 PM
Finally something I know I can help with. Same thing happened to me in my 92. The transducer in that module went bad on you. But you can't just buy that because motorolla won't sell that part. It's a dealer item only. And I believe they wanted around $50 for it. Know what I did to fix mine was to get an auto fuse holder with wires on it and put alligator clips on each side. Then just clip one onto the far left and the other on the far right. Your dash lights will work but you will not be able to dim them. I think I put in a 5 amp fuse. Good luck!
honeybabes
01-25-2004, 08:37 PM
sweet hopefully this will help me. I'll try to check the dealer first tomorrow and if they will charge me that much will do your technique. So i have here in my hands the whole part(tooked it out yesterday) it has a heat sink(i believe). one side of it(black in color) has the plug connector(3 pins) and I can see the 2 bolts that holds the transducer (with motorola logo) and also I can see 2 pins of the transducer. the other side is just the tranducer it self with motorola logo and some part number.
so do I need to connect the fuse holder to where the bolts that holds the transducer or to the two pins of the plug connector(bypassing the middle pin)?
oh yeah...did you really blew few fuses before the lights totally died?
thanks
so do I need to connect the fuse holder to where the bolts that holds the transducer or to the two pins of the plug connector(bypassing the middle pin)?
oh yeah...did you really blew few fuses before the lights totally died?
thanks
algoesfast
01-26-2004, 03:28 PM
I used a small fuse holder. From any auto parts store. It comes with the holder and one wire off of each side of the holder. I put the clips on these wires. To get current throught the fuse holder I inserted a 5 or 15 amp fuse(can't remember). And yes you want to bypass the middle pin. You can tie wrap the fuse so it dont get lose. And that is the part I was talking about. Aluminum base bracket thing with the black heat sink and then the transducer.
honeybabes
01-26-2004, 05:18 PM
I used a small fuse holder. From any auto parts store. It comes with the holder and one wire off of each side of the holder. I put the clips on these wires. To get current throught the fuse holder I inserted a 5 or 15 amp fuse(can't remember). And yes you want to bypass the middle pin. You can tie wrap the fuse so it dont get lose. And that is the part I was talking about. Aluminum base bracket thing with the black heat sink and then the transducer.
so technically, we really don't need that part with heatsink right? I guess I can just unplug the connector with three wires and make something that will connect the wires on the far left and far right....
so technically, we really don't need that part with heatsink right? I guess I can just unplug the connector with three wires and make something that will connect the wires on the far left and far right....
algoesfast
01-27-2004, 01:35 PM
Yes that is correct.
honeybabes
02-01-2004, 12:10 PM
hey algoesfast....my cluster lights are working now but not the shifter and a/c illumination yet. but that really don't matter. thanks for the help my friend. But one thing for those who will have this problem in the future:
there are 3 wires on the plug that goes to lamp dimmer module:
- brown with white stripe
- gray
- green
i don't mean anything about this algoes but when i tried connecting the far apart wires i blew the fuse that i hooked in. so what i did was test all those three wires using multitester and continuity tester and found out that the brown w/white(far right or left in other case) and the green(far left or opposite) both has power once light switch is on. The only difference is brown is comming from dimmer switch and output can be adjusted with it and the green wire came directly from the fuse box and gives a constant 12v(when light switch is on). That's why i blew a couple of fuses when i hooked them together. So i thought the gray wire(middle) is the one hooked up on the lights so without thinking that i might burn something, i hook up a wire from 12v source to that wire and the cluster light lit up so I was like wtf? But hey its working now. So maybe your wires has a differen setup as mine algoes and i woudn't fix this without your help....i appreciate it.
there are 3 wires on the plug that goes to lamp dimmer module:
- brown with white stripe
- gray
- green
i don't mean anything about this algoes but when i tried connecting the far apart wires i blew the fuse that i hooked in. so what i did was test all those three wires using multitester and continuity tester and found out that the brown w/white(far right or left in other case) and the green(far left or opposite) both has power once light switch is on. The only difference is brown is comming from dimmer switch and output can be adjusted with it and the green wire came directly from the fuse box and gives a constant 12v(when light switch is on). That's why i blew a couple of fuses when i hooked them together. So i thought the gray wire(middle) is the one hooked up on the lights so without thinking that i might burn something, i hook up a wire from 12v source to that wire and the cluster light lit up so I was like wtf? But hey its working now. So maybe your wires has a differen setup as mine algoes and i woudn't fix this without your help....i appreciate it.
algoesfast
02-01-2004, 03:21 PM
Sorry about that. It has been many years since I did that trick and I couldn't remember the exact wires. Thats one reason I said to put a fuse in line. I did and I probable did the same thing as you. I'm glad it worked out in the end.
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