Dealer Can't find my Starting problem!!!

Wow where to begin. Went to the dealler cause my car has hard time starting up dealler can't find the problem.
I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima. Its has hard time starting up in hot or cold weather. It have New Battery, New Starter, New Camshaft Position sensor, New Crankshaft Position Sensor, New knock sensor, New collant temp sensor, New spak plugs, New Air Filter, and New PCV vavle, Cleaned the Throttle body out including the intake. Its a 1995 Nissan Maxima GXE 5 Speed manual. When you compression Start it it starts up fine. After starting the car runs fine. Idles fine. The starter runs perfect. It cranks over, but starts up eventually. Check engine lights on comes up as Code P1335. Got a used ECU. Still nothing. If anyone has an idea or had the same problem please Im me at Turk66460 AOL or Email me @ Turk66460@aol.com or leave a feedback. Thanks alot for your time looking.

One more thing after trying to crank, and don't start, you hear a noise from all the fuel injectors, click click etc. Anyways its sound like the ECU thinks the car is on. Well i am not sure what is it. Thanks.

I know exactly what this is, I had the same problem. Most likely it is the ground for the car being corroded, which causes an extended crank. I know it sounds crazy, and you wouldn't think the symptoms would match a ground problem, but it does cause this. What they have to do is clean the ground, which unfortunately is located in the transmission where it mates to the motor. So the trans has to be pulled down, cleaned off and put back, and it will solve that problem completely, I promise! Problem is it will cost about $600, but it is all labor NO parts whatsoever.

I have a 1998 Max with low miles and it sat quite a bit and the ground ended up corroding due to our New England weather. If you live in an area where it snows and gets cold and they use road salt then there is a chance you may experience this problem. Nissan never offered a formal recall because it only happens in certain areas of the country. For example, if you live in Fla, you would never have this problem.

Anyway, the Nissan dealers have obviously not given you enough time to listen and explore this problem correctly (typical); expecially since it is detailed thoroughly in their troubleshooting software. Usually they deal with this in stages, telling you to replace the ground strap first, then starter, and sometime CPS, but at some point they need to tell you the next step which is the trans ground. I don't know why they suggested the ECU and the throttle body. I mean if they throught it was fuel related, they should have started with the Fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter etc. It sounds like you need to get a second opinion from a more reputable dealer too, don't give them anymore of your money based on their inability to diagnose this properly.

I really wish you the best with this, I feel for you since I struggled with this as well. But trust me when I tell you it is probably your ground, and don't let anyone tell you your crazy. Let me know how it goes and feel free to e-mail with any questions, I will do whatever takes to help you out. I think you are simply experiencing the same problem as I did, and it is an easy fix. Good luck!


PS- see if you can sell once of those ECU's on Ebay, because your ECU is fine. You really didn' t need all that stuff replaced, but look on the bright side when you fix this you will have a nice tuned up car.

Also what is a coolant temperature sensor and how much? Is it just another way to refer to a thermostat?

Wow where to begin. Went to the dealler cause my car has hard time starting up dealler can't find the problem.
I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima. Its has hard time starting up in hot or cold weather. It have New Battery, New Starter, New Camshaft Position sensor, New Crankshaft Position Sensor, New knock sensor, New collant temp sensor, New spak plugs, New Air Filter, and New PCV vavle, Cleaned the Throttle body out including the intake. Its a 1995 Nissan Maxima GXE 5 Speed manual. When you compression Start it it starts up fine. After starting the car runs fine. Idles fine. The starter runs perfect. It cranks over, but starts up eventually. Check engine lights on comes up as Code P1335. Got a used ECU. Still nothing. If anyone has an idea or had the same problem please Im me at Turk66460 AOL or Email me @ Turk66460@aol.com or leave a feedback. Thanks alot for your time looking.

One more thing after trying to crank, and don't start, you hear a noise from all the fuel injectors, click click etc. Anyways its sound like the ECU thinks the car is on. Well i am not sure what is it. Thanks.


Guys!!!

You are right the dealers will not find the problem.

After replacing many parts and spending some money I decided to replace the "Ignition Cylinder Lock Harnes". I did that yersterday and my Maxima GLE started up like brand new.Problem solved.

This is not a very expensive part. I will cost you about $40. Replacing it is not complicated. Just make sure you disconnect the battery completely positive and negative as you will be working around the air bag system. You don't want the air bag to deploy. As far as instructions on how to do it, you probably have a Maxima manual. I have the Haynes Repair Manual and the Nissan Maxima Manual. Both are very useful; they give you step by step instructions.It will take you about two hours to finish.

You may wonder what does this part have to do with hard starting the engine? Just like you maybe, I was very sceptical at the begining. I checked the diagrams for the electrical system in the manual and the power from the battery comes first and goes out to all the other electrical components through the ingnition cylinder lock harness. This has inside some cupper contacts that when worn down don't make enough good contact to allow enough flow of power for the engine to start. In other words you get a weak spark and your engine won't star as fast.

I hope this helps all of you out there with this problem.

Good Luck

Hi skids929,
I did what the last guy to the car and still cant find the problem and the car wont start, BUT yesturday the car just started normally for few hours and it was normal when shifting and everything was just fine but when we shuted it down and started again....the same thing happened and it wont start again. please help as soon as you can guy.

if you got any contact number I would cal you so please you can send me your telephone or contact number thrue my E-mail on beaSSt171787@hotmail.com.

Hi skids929,
I did what the last guy to the car and still cant find the problem and the car wont start, BUT yesturday the car just started normally for few hours and it was normal when shifting and everything was just fine but when we shuted it down and started again....the same thing happened and it wont start again. please help as soon as you can guy.

if you got any contact number I would cal you so please you can send me your telephone or contact number thrue my E-mail on beaSSt171787@hotmail.com.


Hi

Does your problem solved ? I have similar problem & symptoms. I shown it to atleast 5-6 mechanics including dealer. No body knows whats the problem is. Pl let me know whats the fix is

Thanks

SP

Hi

Does your problem solved ? I have similar problem & symptoms. I shown it to atleast 5-6 mechanics including dealer. No body knows whats the problem is. Pl let me know whats the fix is

Thanks

SP

send me a an e-mail on beaSSt171787@hotmail.com, I'll be out for 2 days and I'll help you when I am done, but keep in mind that it wont be easy. I can explain it to you step by step.

Happy to help ya

Best wishes, Kal

Guys!!!

You are right the dealers will not find the problem.

After replacing many parts and spending some money I decided to replace the "Ignition Cylinder Lock Harnes". I did that yersterday and my Maxima GLE started up like brand new.Problem solved.

This is not a very expensive part. I will cost you about $40. Replacing it is not complicated. Just make sure you disconnect the battery completely positive and negative as you will be working around the air bag system. You don't want the air bag to deploy. As far as instructions on how to do it, you probably have a Maxima manual. I have the Haynes Repair Manual and the Nissan Maxima Manual. Both are very useful; they give you step by step instructions.It will take you about two hours to finish.

You may wonder what does this part have to do with hard starting the engine? Just like you maybe, I was very sceptical at the begining. I checked the diagrams for the electrical system in the manual and the power from the battery comes first and goes out to all the other electrical components through the ingnition cylinder lock harness. This has inside some cupper contacts that when worn down don't make enough good contact to allow enough flow of power for the engine to start. In other words you get a weak spark and your engine won't star as fast.

I hope this helps all of you out there with this problem.

Good Luck

Hi

If u can explain step by step process for Ignition Cylinder Lock Harnes replacement, if u have some pictures or drawing. Also if u have electrical diagram for Maxima pl post that or send me .

Thanks

...Ignition Cylinder Lock Harnes...

...that msg is 1½yrs old, see the date. I wish u get the answer.

Schemas & info u find following the links I gave u:)
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=475371

When one suspects ign key & harness? For example:
- after key turning has no effect (instrument lights ok)
- engine doesnt crank, no click from starter solenoid
- after the direct tst hotwiring, from +batt to starter solenoid, actuates cranking

.

Hi

If u can explain step by step process for Ignition Cylinder Lock Harnes replacement, if u have some pictures or drawing. Also if u have electrical diagram for Maxima pl post that or send me .

Thanks

Sorry I do not have any pictures nor do I have any drawings. It is very simple with the help of a Nissan Manual. there you will find step by step instructions and some pictures. It is very simple; not rocket science.

send me a an e-mail on beaSSt171787@hotmail.com, I'll be out for 2 days and I'll help you when I am done, but keep in mind that it wont be easy. I can explain it to you step by step.

Happy to help ya

Best wishes, Kal

My problem was certainly solved. Since I replaced the ignition harness I've had no problems turning the engine in the morning. This time of the year, cold times, the engine turns perfectly in the morning. I've left the car for a week or so in my garage upon my return, no problems. Replacing the harness definitely made a difference. I'd recomend replacing it as long as your Maxima is having the same problems as mine.

Nissandro

My problem was certainly solved. Since I replaced the ignition harness I've had no problems turning the engine in the morning. This time of the year, cold times, the engine turns perfectly in the morning. I've left the car for a week or so in my garage upon my return, no problems. Replacing the harness definitely made a difference. I'd recomend replacing it as long as your Maxima is having the same problems as mine.

Nissandro

Yesterday I checked with Advanced auto parts for Ignition Harness connector, they dont have this part. Is this a Dealer part ? If you can tell me where I can get this part. I dont have much knowledge of Car mechanical & electrical. Atleast if u can tell me from where I should start tracing the ignition harness.

Thanks

SP

...they dont have this part. ...

U cannot achieve anything by summary parts swap. Exclude first the most obvious, DIY -or- go to shop with specific tst -requests. But if u insist on this, go to junkyard and buy related parts for testing with fraction of price...

Its very rare for a wire to break, however harness connectors loose their pinch and oxidize. The part which wears via each key turn, is the ign key switch itself.

You can find the ign switch from parts shop (60$ ?), and the adjacent connectors may be reconditioned, no scientific education needed... A harness replacement 'cleans' the connectors; typically taking out and re-installing such harness brings as good results as installing a 'new' one. see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/14

Still you dont answer if your starter cranks??? Can u hear a loud click down below the batt??? Tst your starter with bypass wire from +batt pole to startersolenoid. This test would out-rule starter & solenoid assy as the problem source.

HowToTestStater: get 5 feet piece of electric wire. Peel both end insulator off, 1/4 inch. Take drivers side bottom engine shield out. (To find starter; read manual...) To the starter goes one thick wire from batt. To starter solenoid one thin wire. Theres a connector in the wire, open it or use clip to connect into the solenoid. Push your open wire into connector. Stand up and touch the +batt pole with your jumper wire other end. If starter is ok, now solenoid clicks, starter cranks. (If not, replace starter 2-3bolts plus wire.)

.

U cannot achieve anything by summary parts swap. Exclude first the most obvious, DIY -or- go to shop with specific tst -requests. But if u insist on this, go to junkyard and buy related parts for testing with fraction of price...

Its very rare for a wire to break, however harness connectors loose their pinch and oxidize. The part which wears via each key turn, is the ign key switch itself.

You can find the ign switch from parts shop (60$ ?), and the adjacent connectors may be reconditioned, no scientific education needed... A harness replacement 'cleans' the connectors; typically taking out and re-installing such harness brings as good results as installing a 'new' one. see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/14

Still you dont answer if your starter cranks??? Can u hear a loud click down below the batt??? Tst your starter with bypass wire from +batt pole to startersolenoid. This test would out-rule starter & solenoid assy as the problem source.

HowToTestStater: get 5 feet piece of electric wire. Peel both end insulator off, 1/4 inch. Take drivers side bottom engine shield out. (To find starter; read manual...) To the starter goes one thick wire from batt. To starter solenoid one thin wire. Theres a connector in the wire, open it or use clip to connect into the solenoid. Push your open wire into connector. Stand up and touch the +batt pole with your jumper wire other end. If starter is ok, now solenoid clicks, starter cranks. (If not, replace starter 2-3bolts plus wire.)

.

Thanks again for ur suggestions. But this is my 3rd starter in past 2 months. Now when my engine replaced my mechanic put new starter saying the old one which was brand new one month old was bad ( which i dont think so ) i took starter back to store they do bunt test & starter was good, mechanic was lying but he told me its bad in load condition , if i want to install that starter he will charge me labour for that. Do u think 3 starters go bad in just 2 -3 months period , & this is 2nd time i went to shop with replacement starter, first time i ask for upgarde & then he accepted given me the other brand starter. My friend who was mechanic in past have look & he told its not starter. I am just trying to explore options what is easy to do & replace. Yesterday evening my Car started , i fill up gas tank wnet to advanced auto parts buy air filter & PCV valve ,they dont have TPS for Nissan maxima, told me its dealer part.I checked with couple of junk yards but they also not have it. As cant drive car cant go to diffrent stores for such testing.

Thanks

SP

... But this is my 3rd starter in past 2 months....

TPS
...is one of the few items having 'low' price at stealership (no big difference to other sparestores), call and ask them to order. Also, its availble plentiful sources in net shops, seek.
...The less fortunate adv -store salesboy wants u to be on knees: if he wishes, he can order it. Tell him what shame he is, nicely.

Starter
...reman starters are like that. Buy new? If youre rich...
...Shop guy needs to feed family: work has to produce income =acceptable.
...ask u friend install that tst bypass wire, with a button, directly to solenoid as told: next nostart time press this button. (keepit under hood, easier)... If starter cranks, problem sits in ign keysw/wiring, and/or alarm/shift lever sw keeping inhibit relay off and/or start relay/wiring.

Most probable fault locations are contacts, mowing parts or burned relay contact points: relays itself or their oxidized connectors, ign sw. Probability of shielded strapped wire going broke is a fraction of a zillion; wire to connector breakup is much higher, connentor to connector contact loss is very likely. Typical wire problem is a insulation meltdown due to short circuit; that smells and is readily seen...

Have u checked the grounding wire connection under batt, voltage?

see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/10
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_463.jpg


.

TPS
...is one of the few items having 'low' price at stealership (no big difference to other sparestores), call and ask them to order. Also, its availble plentiful sources in net shops, seek.
...The less fortunate adv -store salesboy wants u to be on knees: if he wishes, he can order it. Tell him what shame he is, nicely.

Starter
...reman starters are like that. Buy new? If youre rich...
...Shop guy needs to feed family: work has to produce income =acceptable.
...ask u friend install that tst bypass wire, with a button, directly to solenoid as told: next nostart time press this button. (keepit under hood, easier)... If starter cranks, problem sits in ign keysw/wiring, and/or alarm/shift lever sw keeping inhibit relay off and/or start relay/wiring.

Most probable fault locations are contacts, mowing parts or burned relay contact points: relays itself or their oxidized connectors, ign sw. Probability of shielded strapped wire going broke is a fraction of a zillion; wire to connector breakup is much higher, connentor to connector contact loss is very likely. Typical wire problem is a insulation meltdown due to short circuit; that smells and is readily seen...

Have u checked the grounding wire connection under batt, voltage?

see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/10
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_463.jpg


.

Hi

Yesterday i have ECU diagnostics DIY using
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html

I got following codes, out of 4 , 3 already i told u before, but this time i get Mass Air flow sensor code. As u told me before O2 Sesor & Evap Purge valve nothing to do with Starting, now only question left is MASF.
But when i did same at Advanced auto parts then i got only 3 codes but not MASF.

0807 EVAP Canister purge control valve/soenoid valve circuit

0503 Front Right Heated O2 sensor

0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor

0303 Front Left Heated O2 sensor.

Do u think i should try replacing MASF?

Also I went to another mechanic & he diagnosed that the type of noise that is coming is for Fly wheel. Fly wheel could be bent or not matching with starting which caused it could not spin well to spark the engine.
Sometime it does but sometimes it does not. This s the reason the fly wheel damaging the starters one after another & it will very soon damage the current starter also. He told me do not put any more money into this car.

Then i called my first mechanic who replaced the engine, he told he had check for fly wheel before installation & thats not a problem, he used the fly wheel from my orignal engine & not from the one installed now.
But he is 100% sure about fly wheel not having any issue.

Now i dont understand whic direction to do for , i am again start thinking going to Nissan Dealership for diagnosis of problem as i am frustrated since last 2 months with this problem.

When it start engine it cranks , crank & crank but does not start, sometie after 3-4 items it does start but i feel vibrations on steering wheel when it start.

I replaced low cost parts like Air filter & PCV valve.

Let me know what do u think.

Thanks

SP

... cranks , crank & crank but does not start, ...

= starter is about doing its job. Flywheel ok if the mech said it was faultless. Maybe starter has problems if start noisey, but concentrate now to engine start.

Dont crank too long, it will only melt the starter. Start only to test and/or/when after some real changes has been done.

It is possible that dead MAF keeps engine from starting. Unplug its connector to test. It Will now start, if MAF is the culprit (idle will roam). Do the same with TPS connectors.

Square one:

1. Test that you'll get spark. Find one extra plug, attach it to one coilpack, rest plug thread agains metal engine part, view for spark between gap as smbdy bturns the key. Is there any?
!!! If you have spark, then you'll know that ECU works, ign circuit works, Alarm circ is NOT ON, Shift lever sw is ok, Inhibit relay is ok. If no spark, start checking these...

2. Ign off. Feel for fuel hose near filter, under hood. Should be about loose. Now ign ON. Hear pump noise? Feel for fuel hose near filter, under hood. Is it stiff? Should be, much more so than first try... Otherwise u dont get fuel = no start. If no spark, start checking fuel system, tubes, filter, pressure regulator...

3. Take CamPos sensor out, (make a position scratch mark first on it & engine). Put ign ON. Rotate Campos sensor, listen how injectors click. Put sensor back...
!!! If you have click, then you'll know that ECU works, controls injectors, ign circuit works, Alarm circ is NOT ON, Shift lever sw is ok, Inhibit relay is ok.

4. Smbdy has to test all those sensors.
- What single sensors do NOT affect starting: O2, CamPos, KS, MAP, Canister...
- What single sensors can affect starting: MAF, TPS
- What single sensors can disable starting: MAF
- situation becomes real complicated if two simultaneous dead sensors, its real/bad possibility...

My hunch is that you have problem with ign sw, or circuitry, connectors. Maybe one connector/wire after engine swap is loose, broken? Climb all over the harness... Check all fuses &swap, check & swap relays: nissan uses color coded relays, you may interchange them. While doing so mark their function, the problem will move if any of them is the source.

Your problem is NOT the car, its the 'service' u get. You should find a place where service guys can reliably do quick troubleshoot. Or, as you seem to be tough guy, tackle this problem until u get it ! This is the way I learned - the hard way is the only way.

On the other hand, if a car is always down, (Not typical Nissan), at some stage its better to get another one. Cannot decide for you... But not at this stage - u seem to have constant fault, so this is the easy one.

.

I know exactly what this is, I had the same problem. Most likely it is the ground for the car being corroded, which causes an extended crank. I know it sounds crazy, and you wouldn't think the symptoms would match a ground problem, but it does cause this. What they have to do is clean the ground, which unfortunately is located in the transmission where it mates to the motor. So the trans has to be pulled down, cleaned off and put back, and it will solve that problem completely, I promise! Problem is it will cost about $600, but it is all labor NO parts whatsoever.

I have a 1998 Max with low miles and it sat quite a bit and the ground ended up corroding due to our New England weather. If you live in an area where it snows and gets cold and they use road salt then there is a chance you may experience this problem. Nissan never offered a formal recall because it only happens in certain areas of the country. For example, if you live in Fla, you would never have this problem.

Anyway, the Nissan dealers have obviously not given you enough time to listen and explore this problem correctly (typical); expecially since it is detailed thoroughly in their troubleshooting software. Usually they deal with this in stages, telling you to replace the ground strap first, then starter, and sometime CPS, but at some point they need to tell you the next step which is the trans ground. I don't know why they suggested the ECU and the throttle body. I mean if they throught it was fuel related, they should have started with the Fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter etc. It sounds like you need to get a second opinion from a more reputable dealer too, don't give them anymore of your money based on their inability to diagnose this properly.

I really wish you the best with this, I feel for you since I struggled with this as well. But trust me when I tell you it is probably your ground, and don't let anyone tell you your crazy. Let me know how it goes and feel free to e-mail with any questions, I will do whatever takes to help you out. I think you are simply experiencing the same problem as I did, and it is an easy fix. Good luck!


PS- see if you can sell once of those ECU's on Ebay, because your ECU is fine. You really didn' t need all that stuff replaced, but look on the bright side when you fix this you will have a nice tuned up car.

Also what is a coolant temperature sensor and how much? Is it just another way to refer to a thermostat?

If that is the problem run a new cable from battery negative (-) to engine earth any where acessible and it would fix it even a jump start cable connected to bat neg and engine will tell if it is a fix