A Major problem with my 91 eclipse

I have an 1991 eclipse it has 200,000 miles and whenever the car gets warm in park or even drinving or idling the engines rpm drop and go back up when im at idle too long the car dies and does not start for like 10-30 min and then runs fine until it does it again.does anyone know what this problem is? thanks

Also it mistly does in when my car is warm is it my iac? or something else the engine light goes on so some sensor is picking up something

Maybe its because your engine is almost dead?. 200,000 miles is alot... never seen a car with 200k on it.

200k is nothing my cars engine runs mint exept for burning a lil bit of oil but thats normal for a 200k car.Does anyone think it may be my torque converter?

i got a mazda with 210 k on it :iceslolan :smokin:

Becuz my tranny only has 3rd gear and reverse i just recently took in out to get rebuild may it be possible my tranny was cuasing the problem the whole time.But i was driving in the car 2 months in 3rd gear lol i finally got enough money to fix it

Does it do this in nuetral only? Just curious, is your car turbo or NT? You could just have a vacuum leak somwhere. Check you ISC also, and do a vacuum leak test. Chances are, you're leakin extra air into the intake manifold somehow and causing the erratic idle.

non turbo sorry ics?? how do u check vaccum from where i know how but i wanna make sure thanx

i did a vacuum leak test and my car is not holding vacumm .i think my hoses are too loose around the nipples .I have another question what is the thing that has the 2 hoses going into thats right by my thermostat and my radiator cap does anyone know what it is called and how u test it to see if it is working

I don't remember what it's called, but it's not important. I disconnected it on my 92, along with a whole bunch of other vacuum hoses. The only thing with the smaller vacuum hoses on my car is, fuel pressure regulator, blow off valve, wastegate, and boost gauge.

Where did you tap in for the vac check? If you pull off the intake tube and cap off the throttle body, then hook a vacuum pump on one of the fittings on top of your throttle body, you should be able to get a good idea of where look for leaks.

my vacumm hose for my fuel pressure regulator is cracked and broken leaking vacumm may that be causing my problem also all my vaccum hoses are leaking through the nipple i tested it through the throttle body ports i fogot what color its marked its in my repair book may this cuased the problem??

If you fuel pressure regulator vac hose is cracked or broken, you're not going to have proper fuel pressure and your car wont' run as well as it should. A cracked or broken vacuum line can definately cause the idle surge problem you're seeing. When there's a vacuum leak, the motor is taking in MORE air than what it's supposed to at idle, making the RPM's rise. It's kinda like slightly pressing the gas pedal.
IF the RPM's rise when it's not supposed to, the ECU drops it back down, then the vac leak raises it again, then the ECU drops it, and this cycles back and forth.
There are other things that can cause idle surge but you're vac leak is definately one of them. Replace the hoses. You can use OEM sized or 5/32" rubber hose. It's a little bigger than stock but it has a thicker wall.

yeah i just bought all cool blue vacumm hoses i hope it works.I have to put them on still i have to wait until the transmission is fixed but thanx so much guys for the tips and advice ill keep ya posted if it didt fix the problem

I have one more ? now how will me changing all the vaccumm hoses fix this?well i mean after the car gets warm enough the car wants to die exept when i put the car in nuetural and rev the engine at the light and then slam the car in drive again.But when the car does die the car does not start up until 10-30 minutes then repeats itself will the vacumm hoses cause this too such as the fuel pressure regulator??

I have the same problem (91 1.8l, manual tranny), I just checked all my vacuum hoses and everything is okay. Fuel pressure regulator hose is on tight with no cracks. Do the regulators go bad, their $60 so its not like you just buy it and put it on if your guessing...

did u check your regulator first check that first by using a vacumm pump to see if it is working?I have no checked mine since i cannot start mine up due to my tranny is out of the car i forgot the specs for the regulator if u have a repair manual they should tell you

I dont think I have ever seen a bad FPR. But you can get one at the junkyard for 5-10 bucks. You cant test it iwth a vac pump, see the other thread on this same subject for how to test it.

As has already been said, ANY vacuum leaks will cause idle problems. It will get worse when the car is warm ecause the ECU shuts off the choke. The extra fuel it injects when cold (choke) can offset the extra air you are taking in and mask the problem. There is nothing else you can do until the car is actually running, with NO vac leaks. If the problem is still there it can be many other things. See the vfaq for a list of what to check and in what order. ;)