Cheap HP

My friend has a 98 Z28 with the 5.7 in it. Can anyone tell me of some web sights what will have any info on somewhat cheap mods for it?

a 98 ain't going to be cheap, it's to new, removing the noise baffle in the air box, get a performance air filter, tune-up & sevice, past that it's
going to take a few $$ :smokin:

yeah man, newer cars are always more expencive, cuz teh aftermarket is trying to recoup the money spent on develping performance parts. price will come down, but not yet. id say all the normal stuff would apply. take off the heads, and have them ported and polished, K&N filter, like comp said, if you are good at making things, try a crank scraper, they are worth around 10-20hp at the top end, and you can make one out of scrap sheet metal for pennies. a pair of hi flow cats, and a free flowing exhaust (headers and cat back) would be worth a few, id say 20-30hp. and you can get that for a reasonable price. aside from that. modding those cars serisously demands the ability to tune them, not the engine. the computer. if you dont have the resourses or knowhow to modify the computer programs and perameters, stick with the mild hot sauce :)

Yeah, headers and duals arnt that expensive...and basically everything elese comp and IROC have said. You can probaly drop a mild performance cam in there. There not that expensive, and you can get the set with the cam, lifters,ect...

a cam itself isnt expensive, but if u dot have the time or skill to install n pay some1, it is gonna cost a lot to take apart the engine n install camshafts

yeah if you dont know what your doing, that engine can be a mess to try to put back together. it has to be assembled PERFECTLY to keep those computers happy, a loose connection here, and a tiny crack in a vacume line there, or even routing something the wrong way when you put it back together, will cause you so many headaches youll probly sell the car. ive seen it at the dealership multiple times. people just get in too deep, and trade the car in cuz they cant fix it, and trust me, to pay the dealership to fix what ya broke, cuz they have to find it first, is gonna cost you big time. as a tech i can tell you, the one thing that they hate, if they work on them at all, is modified cars. especially ones that arent working. so just think very carefully about what your gonna do before you do it.

See, thats a plus for me because I dont have to worry about loose connections and check engine lights and all that other stupid shit. My car dosent have any computers, if something isnt working go wiggle the connection, then everything is dandy.

lol, if you cant duck it, fuck it lol. that or hit it with a bigger hammer huh??? :) hey man, i love my computers, makes diagnosis sooooo much easier. and give you great performance, with great economy. best of both worlds. when it works anyway ;)

Hahaha, fuck it. I get 17-20 mpg. with my 2 barrel. No comps.

u get that much, i get lik 9 in my car

lol, 26mpg out of my TPI 350 at 70-80 mph with two crossed plug wires, and a blown O2 sensor ;)

well guess what....I have absolutely no idea how much gas mileage either one of my vehicles gets so THERE!!!!!!!!!

11's and 25 MPG. computers rule

yeah yeah, rub it in our faces, i still think genopsyde wins :)

TPI is sexy!!!

Thanks everyone. "What is a crank Scraper"?

crank scraper is a peice of sheet metal, that you screw to the main webbing in the crank case. you cut it to follow the shape of the rotating assembly (crank, rods ) with a 1/8 - 1/4 in gap between the rotating assembly and the edge of the scraper. be sure to do tight cuts, and trim the metal as you rotate the assembly with a wrench, to make sure the gaps are not too big. if you are looking for an easyer way, go to jegs.com, they sell a prefit sbc scraper, that you can trim to perfection as needed. all and all its pretty easy.

i've never heard of it, what kind of performance benefits does it have?

already said, 10-20hp at the top end. depending on your application. low end responce wont change much, but top end power will be higher, the scraper keeps oil from building up on the rotating assembly, and virtually eliminates windage. both rob power by creating rotational resistance to the assembly, and it takes power to overcome them. so by scraping all the oil off, you reduce that power sapping from the engine, putting it back to the rear wheels. :)

The ideas people come up with!!! Thanks, I will let my friend know about that one, it sound pretty easy! Know anything about the Dodge Avenger ES?

???? cant say as i do.