help with intake

hey i was wondering if the experts here could give me some advice and some insight on what i should do. i have a 94 mustang gt that is fairly stock aside from headers, gearing, cold sir, throttle bodies, etc... and i am looking at a trick flow track heat intake. i was wondering if that would help my car any and what i need to do to get its full potential out of it. also i was wondering if i would need to switch heads (which i plan to do, but probally not at the time of the intake) or anything else. i have an e303 cam that will go in at the same time and cobra rocker arms, along with new lifters. will i be able to get good preformance out of this intake with my car still half way stock, or should i look elsewhere. thanks for any help anyone is willing to give...

I am no expert, Trick flow is a good intake, I run a ported GT40 intake myself.
Think of your engine as an hour glass, with the top being your intake the center being your heads and the bottom being your exhaust. You can put any kind of intake on this motor you want, you will not get full potential out of it until you put on better heads. Heads are the big restriction on a stock motor.:2cents:

Stock head intake ports and Trick Flow intake ports don't match up at all. Major airflow disruption also as said all over here try to stay away from the alphabet cams much better 1's available these days.

Perfect answers boyos... Get some heads before shelling out for an intake. Most intakes cost half about as much as heads do but wont give you any notice able power dif till you get some less restrictive heads.

Well, I really hope you weren't talking about putting in the cam when you do the intake? A cam would better off installed when you have the heads off for their swap.


As far as the track heat intake goes, might not be a good idea. You will more then likely lose some low end torque from it, and I wouldn't recommend it for a mainly street driven car that doesn't see much use of the top end.

GTStang, I didn't have a problem when I had my stock heads with the trick flow street heat intake.

yes, track heat are for serious applications, 6000+RPM is where you see the real gain, which isn't seen to often on the street.
The Edelbrock performer Rpm or,Performer RPM2 would be my choice.
but the real answer is in the heads as previously posted.
on a stock engine, the key is to keep everything in moderation.
putting $1500 CNC ported big DART heads on a stock motor is a waste. Get some stock heads like Edelbrock performer, Trickflow Hi port, Gt 40, etc.

well i can get a deal on some gt 40 heads and intake, how would that help my performance out in terms of hp. also, i was wondering what the differnece was between the gt 40 and the gt 40p, and which one would be better to run. Oh, and what cam should i run if i stay away from the alphabet cams??? how much lift etc...

gt40P is alluminum. Less weight, probably the same power.
with the ehads and intake you might get 40-50hp.
cam choice for a setup like this, go with crane or comp, and tell them your driving habits, mods, and temp/altitude of where you live, and they will pick the best cam for you.

gt40P is alluminum. Less weight, probably the same power.
with the ehads and intake you might get 40-50hp.
cam choice for a setup like this, go with crane or comp, and tell them your driving habits, mods, and temp/altitude of where you live, and they will pick the best cam for you.
GT40P heads are cast iron! Also refereed to as Explorer heads, cause they are found on the certain explorers. They are a better flowing head then stock, but cannot compare to a nice alum set. Typically P heads will cost about $500-$650, whereas a nice alum head will cost over a grand. P heads still lack flow on the exhaust side, just like the stock E7's.

GT40 heads are either cast iron or alum. I wouldn't even buy the iron one's, but the alum one's are a decent head, and are far better then the P and GT40 iron heads. Although GT40's are somewhat out dated compared to the huge after-market of alum heads now available, such as AFR's or Edelbrock.

Valve sizes are;
Stock E7's: I 1.78", E 1.45"
GT40P: I 1.84". E 1.46"
GT40 iron: I 1.84 E 1.54"
GT40 alum: I 1.94" E 1.60"

With a good set of heads and intake, you may see an increase of 40-60 hp, depending on combo. As for cam, Crane 2031 or the 2030 cam.

HiFlow, what setup should i run then if i want the max. low end to mid performance from my car, with the crane cams u suggested. can u give me some names that seem to hold up well and out preform alot of competitors. i am looking for the most bang for the buck so to speak. something that gives some serious results but are still applicable for the street. what rocker arms, lifters do u reccomend also and anything u want to add. thanks for the help. im trying to figure all this out before spring so i can put my car up for several weeks and get it ready for the summer car shows, etc... and i want it to be layin down some respectable horses for them...

Ok, if it were my car here's what I would do. This is considering that there's faily low mileage on the stock bottom that is in good shape.

Edelbrock Performer II intake

AFR 165 heads
1.6 rr's
New lifters and pushrod and ARP head bolts.
Crane 2030 cam (50 state legal)
75mm MAF meter
70mm TB
3 core radiator
190 LPH fuel pump
24 lb-hr injectors
adj FPR.

That's pretty much where I would start with the motor. All that will set you back roughly about $3,300-$3,500.

what do u think about the edelbrock performer aluminum heads, i can get a good deal on them too. how would they work for my car...

and one more question, what is the difference between the cobra 1.7 rocker arms and a 1.6, etc...

Difference betweem a 1.6 and a 1.7 is the ratio of the rocker. Simplest explianation is this a 1.7 will simulate having a higher lift cam than a 1.6. But this is not always a good thing.

my bad about the heads.
get the rockers that match up with your cam.

I am no expert, Trick flow is a good intake, I run a ported GT40 intake myself.
Think of your engine as an hour glass, with the top being your intake the center being your heads and the bottom being your exhaust. You can put any kind of intake on this motor you want, you will not get full potential out of it until you put on better heads. Heads are the big restriction on a stock motor.:2cents:


Same here I run a ported GT40 which I am very happy with... A friend of mine has a Professional Products EFI Intake and he swears by it, The cost is about $300.00 and it is suppose to outflow all other intakes on the market including the GT40 and Elderbrock RPM II

My Mustang Mods are Coast High Performance 347 short block, new b-303 FRRP cam, Ported GT 40 intake and GT 40 aluminum heads, 1.7 rockers, 77mm Mass Air, 70 mm Throttle body, 50 pound injectors, a new 9 PSI ATI Pro charger with intercooler, Mac Shorty Headers, Flowmasters, Art Carr Street/Strip AOD transmission, 3:73 gears...18inch Cobra R Rims and Nitto Drag tires, 5 Lug conversion and 4 wheel disk brakes. AND NOW A ZEX 125 SYSTEM!!!

10.79@126

well i can get a deal on some gt 40 heads and intake, how would that help my performance out in terms of hp. also, i was wondering what the differnece was between the gt 40 and the gt 40p, and which one would be better to run. Oh, and what cam should i run if i stay away from the alphabet cams??? how much lift etc...

I am running 10 sec quarter mile with GT40 heads and Intake which were Extrude honed...

My Mustang Mods are Coast High Performance 347 short block, new b-303 FRRP cam, Ported GT 40 intake and GT 40 aluminum heads, 1.7 rockers, 77mm Mass Air, 70 mm Throttle body, 50 pound injectors, a new 9 PSI ATI Pro charger with intercooler, Mac Shorty Headers, Flowmasters, Art Carr Street/Strip AOD transmission, 3:73 gears...18inch Cobra R Rims and Nitto Drag tires, 5 Lug conversion and 4 wheel disk brakes. AND NOW A ZEX 125 SYSTEM!!!

10.79@126

I am running 10 sec quarter mile with GT40 heads and Intake which were Extrude honed...

My Mustang Mods are Coast High Performance 347 short block, new b-303 FRRP cam, Ported GT 40 intake and GT 40 aluminum heads, 1.7 rockers, 77mm Mass Air, 70 mm Throttle body, 50 pound injectors, a new 9 PSI ATI Pro charger with intercooler, Mac Shorty Headers, Flowmasters, Art Carr Street/Strip AOD transmission, 3:73 gears...18inch Cobra R Rims and Nitto Drag tires, 5 Lug conversion and 4 wheel disk brakes. AND NOW A ZEX 125 SYSTEM!!!

10.79@126
I think we all know your mods by now, you post them in every statement you write about something. Also don't be afraid to quote more then once per post, it's very annoying reading multiple posts where they all could have been in the same post.

I think we all know your mods by now, you post them in every statement you write about something. Also don't be afraid to quote more then once per post, it's very annoying reading multiple posts where they all could have been in the same post.


What do you mean about me posting my mods in every post, You do the same thing, just look at this post, and so does almost everyone else on this board does the same thing.

Ok everyone on the forum no more posting your mods or photo with your reply more than once... Let's get real!!

As for Multible posts I reply directly to each post differently... You can not reply to all posts the same as each is different...

What do you mean about me posting my mods in every post, You do the same thing, just look at this post, and so does almost everyone else on this board does the same thing.
There's a sig function for your mods. Guess I should have stated that.

Ok everyone on the forum no more posting your mods or photo with your reply more than once... Let's get real!!It was just coming across as looking like you were bragging, like you were trying to relate your mods to your posts.

As for Multible posts I reply directly to each post differently... You can not reply to all posts the same as each is different...Look at that, I just made three direct quotes in one post! All three are very clear with my comments, without losing the meaning of the post.

I was learning alot but now this thread's getting a little over heated. Time to crack open a beer and do a little channel surfing.

If you arent confident in building a motor, or putting cam, heads, and intake numbers together then look at Edelbrock for example. They have intake & cam sets. If you do want to mix/match parts, then try to keep the RPM rang in order, ex 1500-6500RPM for cam, intake, and heads. Also keep a lower duration cam for your street rod, unless you wanna run a vacuum canister for power brakes or steering. Last but not least, just because your valve springs say for example .500'' max lift, doesnt mean thats the highest lift cam you can run. If your springs go up to .500" then I wouldnt go over .450" for the street. Unless of course you like the idea of valves hanging up...