A Contraversial Issue!

Ok here it is...........What is a better set up a turbo car to its fullest potential, a superchaged car to its full potential, or a N/A car to its full potential??? Which one do u think is the strongest?

If you are talking about the same motor for a base to start from then the turbo motor will be the strongest, but the N/A motor will probably last longer. If you are talking about a honda motor lets say a B18C1 then the turbo being in first place and the N/A being second and the SC being last. That is if you are talking about a roots style SC. My :2cents:

AGGG!!! TOO MANY VARIABLES!!! hasnt this discussion been done a dozen times over?

AGGG!!! TOO MANY VARIABLES!!! hasnt this discussion been done a dozen times over?

The Answer is Yes...

DoubleTap

Turbo will be strongest if built right. Good turbo, 30psi...

Turbo will be strongest if built right. Good turbo, 30psi...

Ok man 30psi is in no way streetable! Never will be either, please give some good constructive advice :rolleyes:

Ok NA will last the longest. Least heat to degenerate seals and such, and less internal temps to deal with.

Turbocharged will give you the most power, but it will run very hot. Seals will not last as long as an NA. Also you will have a harder time tuning that you would on an NA car.

Supercharger offeres the best streetability. You can get reasonable power from it and be happy. It causes less wear on the engine because it is not as hot as a turbo. But it will cause your crankshaft end bearing to fail prematurly, possibly causing crankshaft endplay. (this is caused by the stress the SC belt puts on the crank belt)

So if you are doing up a Honda motor for street use go with NA. If you are set on getting forced induction go with a SC. Dont get a turbo, to many things to go wrong on a car that was not designed for a turbo.

Good luck

30psi...do you have any idea how much power you would be making with 30psi on a B18C1? that would be triple plus some baseline power..not to mention your baseline power would be higher than just the 170(?) that a B18C1 makes because of the thousands of dollars worth of upgrades you'd need to make in order for that engine to handle such high power gains..but anyway...yes...Turbo = your best bet if you want a racecar...sure NA lasts longer...but who really needs an engine to last long if it's not fast? and I'm not even commenting on S/Cs...what a waste.

come on fellas you can't knock s/c's.Are you gonna tell me you are not impressed with vortech's s/c kit for the civic Si an gsr???

271 street legal and smoggable ponies to play with.Tell me of a turbo kit you can bolt on an make 100+hp without further tuning including raising the boost and keep the car street legal.

S/c's are great for reliability if done right.

Now i'm not saying that it is better then turboing because i love the sound of my t25 spoolin and the sweet sound of my blitz SSBOV, but you can't completely knock s/c's.

Yeah, you got a point...S/Cs do serve a purpose...if you wanna bolt on some power to a car and that be the end of it...sure...but you know..when it comes to making a 400hp+ engine you need a turbo.

come on fellas you can't knock s/c's.Are you gonna tell me you are not impressed with vortech's s/c kit for the civic Si an gsr???

271 street legal and smoggable ponies to play with.Tell me of a turbo kit you can bolt on an make 100+hp without further tuning including raising the boost and keep the car street legal.

S/c's are great for reliability if done right.

Now i'm not saying that it is better then turboing because i love the sound of my t25 spoolin and the sweet sound of my blitz SSBOV, but you can't completely knock s/c's.

I'm not impressed with the vortechs at all. They're making 270 smog legal horsepower. Guess what, you can make 270 TO THE WHEELS smog legal with a bolt on turbo kit. With a turbo kit you actually get more low end torque, instead of having boost ramp up with RPM's like on a vorturd. Not to mention not having to deal with belt slip, you don't need to change pullies to adjust boost with a turbo, and a turbo doesn't put all that strain on your #1 main bearing like a blower does.

first off all i'm talking about vortech's centrifigul S/c kit.But i'm pretty sure you knew that since you were talking about belt slippage and blowers an what not.

So your telling me that you have a turbo kit that will slap on to a civic Si and with no further mods and make a dyno proven 271Hp to the wheels.........i'm sorry i call BS!
Plus with wut ur saying you can take it to any smog station in CA and it will pass no problem...... serious BS there.

Please show me to this magical kit that i can buy with prove from dyno runs about this 271 TO THE WHEELS!!!

I'm not knocking turbo'ing at all, i'm just saying that with a mass produced s/c kit u can make a 100% power gain.Most if not all turbo kits only show a 60% gain in HP.So bring me some facts oh these "turbo kits that make 271HP @ the wheel"

please.....i dare ya.....

first off all i'm talking about vortech's centrifigul S/c kit.But i'm pretty sure you knew that since you were talking about belt slippage and blowers an what not.

So your telling me that you have a turbo kit that will slap on to a civic Si and with no further mods and make a dyno proven 271Hp to the wheels.........i'm sorry i call BS!
Plus with wut ur saying you can take it to any smog station in CA and it will pass no problem...... serious BS there.

Please show me to this magical kit that i can buy with prove from dyno runs about this 271 TO THE WHEELS!!!

I'm not knocking turbo'ing at all, i'm just saying that with a mass produced s/c kit u can make a 100% power gain.Most if not all turbo kits only show a 60% gain in HP.So bring me some facts oh these "turbo kits that make 271HP @ the wheel"

please.....i dare ya.....


http://www.importreview.com/dyno/turbo/turbonovtec.jpg


http://www.importreview.com/dyno/turbo/usls4.jpg

Piece together a turbo "kit" for $1500... and Uberdata with a Dyno to tune your car and you can easily make 12PSI (which is around 260HP i think... sorta depends).... then if you want mad HP you rebuild the engine... run around 20PSI (lots and lots and lots and lots of HP) for a couple of grand more.... Granted at that point you'll need a new clutch and LSD, but for not a whole lot more you've got a whole shitload more than you'd get with a S/C. Just seems stupid to buy any kit... and especially stupid to buy a S/C kit... research everything and go turbo

http://www.houston-imports.com/~euro/uploaded/311hp%20266tq%2014psi.JPG

1995 Ls shortblock
1989 Ls head
Completely stock internals
Pump gas 93 octane
GE blockguard
Greddy 660cc injectors
Hondata S100
2.5" downpipe
3" thermal exhaust
Precision SC61
This run was done at 14 psi. We kept it real conservative because this is a daily driven vehicle. We could have pushed it more...but the owner of the car was very happy with the results at 14 psi so we stopped there.



14 pounds of boost on pump gas on an LS motor. That would EASILY pass smog, and that would make more power with less boost on a B16. Centrifugal superchargers are inferior power adders on high revving small displacement motors.

Interesting SHIT!!

why would people buy turbos if they heat up quick and have short lives???? well if that was true people wouldnt buy turbos. a properly oiled turbo with a wg, bov , and ic will be fine and the bigger the turbo the less heat you will create because u dont have to worry about backpressure or overspooling. so go figure...u want fun and power and even durability go turbo.

Boosted...

BOOSTED are you in orlando fl

discussions like this one make my nutz h3rt. 30# not streetable, oh jesus, not gonna even touch that.

n00bs

14 psi on stock internals??? that's suicide! no matter how well you tune the engine you're still gunna blow it pretty quick running that much boost on stock internals