A few tips on performance please

Ok i have recently purchased a 99 gst spyder. Im not planning on any major upgrades(turbo,FMIC,internal work,etc) any time soon.I would like to add a intake and a full exhaust.
1)Do i just get the cat-back or can you replace it from the turbo back and still be legal. Also i wanna change out the BOV but what is the eastiest and best route to go to hear it well and not get the downfall of venting to the atmosphere.
2)And with the above mods what kinda performance increase should i expect?
3)What gauges(boost,AF,Exhaust,turbo timer,etc) should i get to keep track of whats important? And if i get a boost controller could i possibly turn up the boost a hair on the factory turbo or is that a NO NO.

Im new to this and havent found any good site for useful info so please help!!
Thanks alot
Andy

I suggest www.vfaq.com. I'm still quite a newbie to the turbo world, and I found a lot of useful information. Plus installation pics and tips. Give that a try

Ok with the upgrades you are looking at maby a 20hp boost overall.

You can get a turbo back system but if it has no cat in it then its not legal.

As for guages you need to look at an AF guage, boost guage. Exhaust temp if you like.

If you get a boost controller then you could do 16psi or so on the stock T-25. Which might net you another 10-15hp.

But for other not so costly mods that will give you added power you could try flushin your intercooler, running on premium and a octain booster, changing oil often, change fuel filters, re-wire fuel pump, clean injectors. Stuff like that will give you better power and probably increased fuel milage.

Good luck with your car.

1)Do i just get the cat-back or can you replace it from the turbo back and still be legal. Also i wanna change out the BOV but what is the eastiest and best route to go to hear it well and not get the downfall of venting to the atmosphere.
2)And with the above mods what kinda performance increase should i expect?
3)What gauges(boost,AF,Exhaust,turbo timer,etc) should i get to keep track of whats important? And if i get a boost controller could i possibly turn up the boost a hair on the factory turbo or is that a NO NO.
Thanks alot
Andy

1. Your downpipe is a section of 'pre-cat' you might be interested in upgrading. I say that, because if you aren't looking for big upgrades, don't worry about o2 housing and exhaust manifold. You can upgrade it without being illegal, and a high-flow cat would be a good thing as well.

2. You won't find me ever saying: "these mods will give you XX hp", so expect a performance gain you will notice, but be leery of numbers that people pull out of nowhere.

3. Boost gauge is mandatory. I would buy one before anything else. I don't think you'll need A/F, EGT or others until you look at some serious mods. turbo timers are debatable. Most people get by fine without them. Don't waste your money unless you think you are really that lazy.

Well i did pull the hp numbers out of my butt, but you can still expect some segnificant gains from increasing the flow of exhaust.

A turbo timer is a good idea even for a stock car. It will extend the lif of the turbo and engine. IT allows the turbo to cool off properly and lets the engine temp drop slowly. This will make your engine and turbo last longer.

It is true that you dont need one, no one does. But having one wouldent be a bad idea.

All good suggestions so far. And Joewagon stole some of mine, but I'll list it all anyway :D Here is what I would do, keeping in mind that the stock turbo will be the ultimate limiter in your case.

Full exhuast, with a highflow cat if legality is a concern. Nothing wrong with that. 2.5" will be fine, from a reputable DSM only vendor preferably, like Bushur, SBR, RRE, etc.

K&N filter

UICP of your choice, with a 1g BOV

Boost controller set to 15-16 psi on pump gas, no higher, please.

With just the exhaust and filter my AWD ran 14.3s. Add a half second or so to cover a FWD with a good launch. The other mods will get you a few tenths/mph, and help reduce waste (leaky BOV namely). Guages aside from boost wont be necessary at this point, since the ECU still has full control and there is nothing you can do with the information they give you. That is the cheap and dirty way to get a 2g started in the mod process. If thats as far as you want to go with power mods, you can still knock your time down further (or make the car more fun to drive if you dont plan to race) with suspension/tire and clutch upgrades.

That will max out the stock turbo, and will be a safe, comfortable state of tune. ;)

1)Ok thanks alot for all the info, what kinda suspension setup would you recommend for a decent ride but also a nice stance? Ill be running the 18" aerospeed RS-GT's with 225/40/18s that i took off my spyder GS Id like to replace the struts and springs would you recommend coil-overs. Ground control maybe since thier priced decent. I had KYB non adjust with the eibach pro springs and that was kinda harsh but handled nicely.
I would like a slighty better ride if possible.

2) And also about the BOV I dont mind buying a aftermarket one but i do want it to make some noise if possible. So what could i run instead of the 1g type and still keep my car operating smoothly?
All your info is greatly appriciated
Thanks
Andy




/

greedy type s is the best blow off valve...

Why do you say that? I was told it leaks under larger boost loads? Do you have one? I was lookin to get one and have it mounted on greddy uicp. Let me know what you think

If youre not planning any major upgrades.. then the Greddy leaking isnt really an issue.. itll maintain through basic mods... and you can still hear it pretty well when its vented back into the intake...

Definately make a boost gauge one of the first things you buy.. Preferrably an electronic one, rather than a mechanical.

As for the turbo timer... If your car doesnt have an alarm... They now have alarms that also include turbo timers... I got mine for $200... Came with Remote start, alarm and turbo timer.. The turbo timer is set at the time of the install.. It can be set for 1, 3, 5, or 30 minutes... Hit 2 buttons on you alarm key..the dome light comes on, door unlock and the lights start blinking.. you dont get the extra features and stuff with a say an HKS turbo timer with GTech functions... But it gets the job done...

Rattlesnake, and you have a manual too? my alarm was more costly because it's harder to find an auto start for a manual here. Plus i got the two-way reciever with the screen that tells you what's going on :) And some other options like motion sensor and paging system.

greedy type s is the best blow off valve...


DOnt waste our time with useless posts like this. Qualify and quantify your claim. Why is it the best. How high have you pressure tested it to. What have you ran on it. I've been trying to avoid saying this, but I think its the worlds biggest POS. In my humble opinion of course, your mileage may vary. :)

i think Kevin has it out for GReddy in general... what reasons do you have to 'quantify' that the type-s is a POS, or do you mean that as an ok thing cuz ur the POSr guy [meant as a joke]? yes, i would love to have a TiAl or SARD BOV. yes, i would love to have all the supporting mods to vent to the atmosphere. no, i'm not running over 20psi [or over 17.5 for that matter]. yes it will work great for what i got going, and probably alot of other people too. yes, if i do get stupid crazy with an upgrade [although i'm HEAVILY leaning towards the EVO 16g] i will get a better BOV. just a little defense for the type-s... just my opinion... ;)

I have been saying for years that I wont comment on the type s because I have never run one on MY car. But from what I have seen and heard from others running it, I do not like it, and there are reasons it is not on my car. But I wont give it a bad name until I try it myself. It is my personal opinion that 99% of poeple running the type s would be just as well off with the 1g though, which is significantly more reliable and cheaper. MAny many people run the type s and do like it of course, such as yourself. And if it meets your needs, by all means run it! I was a bit harsh in the last post because I get aggrevated when some of us spend the time to offer reasons to back up our opinions/thoughts while others will simply say "hey its the best, because I said so and you should beleive everything I say," if you know what I mean ;)

And to continue the thought... I do "quantify" and "qualify" my statements on the BOVs I do have perosnal experience with. Some things I have posted recently.

The Tial will not leak

The SARD will not leak

The RFL will absolutely leak in every case I have seen

The 1g valve is 40 bucks used and has run low 11s or better.

etc ;) I have no experience with the name brand valves, which is why I will never comment much on them or recomend them when people ask for opinions on what BOV to run.

good stuff... :)

indeed... :)