help..... for 22psi

helo

i have a b16a.. and im gunning to take the boost up to 22psi... can anyone tell me what internals do i need to get the 22psi.. that i want.. and wer can i get those things over the net? help pls.

I hope you have loads of money! You will need at the bare min sleeves, forged pistons, rods, good rings, good headgasket, arp head bolts and rod bolts (if they don't come with the rods) etc etc. Lots of stuff, probably around $2-3000 with labor at a shop.

Well, whtteg is correct. You will need to re-sleeve it, new pistons (pistons should come with rings), rods (should come with rod bolts), arp head blots are a good idea. Also, I would recommend new titanium vavle springs at the least. A port and polish and valve job will help with air-flow, which helps increase HP. Anyways, for re-sleeving, I'd recommend AEBS Sleeves, for pistons, Weisco or Arais, for rods, Crowers high line or rod. They sell a cheaper H-beam rod, that is very similer to eagle rods. Like eagle rods though, I will not recommend it for boost. They are both made in China and finished over hear. The expensive Crower Rods (the ones similer to eagle are called Crower Econo Rods) are a VERY solid, yet fairly light I-beam. This I-Beam constuction rod IS stronger than an H-beam. H-beam is used to shave off weight mostly. The econo rod and eagle are h-beam. I don't recommend those two. And your looking at something around 3 grand at least to build it.

What about the crankshaft! HOw much hp is the stock crank rated?

What about the crankshaft! HOw much hp is the stock crank rated?

The stock Crankshaft will more than do you fine unless you are trying to stroke the motor, in which case you will need a new one. Maybe have your stock crank balanced, but that's it.

I have i a old HCI mag that the built a b16 for 22psi the made like 440whp i kno it cost them hella money like 4gs jus for engine build but i i think they built it to run 22 psi all the time you would save money by jus buildin it for 16 18 psi daily and run 20- 22 track good luck keep us posted

Runing such high pressure you will need high octane....and where I live its $6 for 110 and like 7-8 for 114 and 117....Might as well covert it to use Alki. Plus, alki burns cooler!

I run this shit for my Goped but for cars, thats crazy! Thats a butt load of money there!

The stock Crankshaft will more than do you fine unless you are trying to stroke the motor, in which case you will need a new one. Maybe have your stock crank balanced, but that's it.

getting the crank knife-edged and balanced is a good idea with high hp.

getting the crank knife-edged and balanced is a good idea with high hp.

Yes, that will help too, having it knife edged besides balancing. However, if he doesn't have the money, it's not required per say, like re-sleeving, new rods, pistions, etc, will be. It's still not a bad idea, bt it's not a neccassity per say like the other are.

yeah, it will just free up some hp, not necessary when building up the engine to hanmdle high boost.

How about instead of making up some arbitrary boost number that you think sounds cool, you make a horsepower goal.

How about instead of making up some arbitrary boost number that you think sounds cool, you make a horsepower goal.

You're correct. I re-read all the posts. I swear he said 300HP (which in no way requires 22psi, lol). However, upon re-reading the thread, your absolutly right. He never stated a number. So, b16aturbo, what is your HP goal. Before you can say "I want this much boost," you really need to first decide the end HP goal for your motor. This, in turn, will effect what you need to do and how much boost, fuel, airflow, etc, will be required to meet your stated target. I compare stating a bost goal with no HP goal to shooting at a range with no target. Sure, your shooting, but what on earth are you shooting at. A target provides much more direction.

also, tell us what kind of car you want. do you want a lag lovin dragger, or do you want a fast spoolin car for going around the twisties?

a hp goal of 250 can be reached both ways, its all about how much you actually want to top out at.

um... im aiming for 400hp plus... what do u guys think?? how much boost must be reached to get that HP?? and ehat do i nid??

um... im aiming for 400hp plus... what do u guys think?? how much boost must be reached to get that HP?? and what aftermarket parts do i need??

Well you can get SRP pistons + Eagle rods for about $750. Good turbo cams...about $450. Then of course the whole turbo setup. New valves, valve sprigs, retainers. If you can do the work you can do it cheap. If not your looking at some $ I have a friend with a 97 Eclipse runnning low 11's with about 20-25 psi. It's not all about boost. It's about the other parts. You could also run high compression with conservative boost. Ever consider that?

Oh and before I get flamed, by cheap I mean cheaper. There is no cheap when fixing up a car.

guys,

im planning on getting some new internals for the engine, like DART blocks, CP pistons 8.5:1. crower rods, and sutff from ARP... and etc.... but my target HP is about 450 or more... canu guys help?

VG30DETT your done now:)

Your hp just changed from 400-450. This is going a little overboard for a B16. You are going to have some serious issues to deal with.

Things will break on a near daily basis if you street drive this thing at 450hp. I think you should just get a car that can deal with that kind of power. Supra, Eclipse, 300ZX, 3000GT, EVO, SRT-4.

These cars will last much longer than a B16 on 22 psi. And that article in HCI with the 440hp Civic was a daily driver at 22psi. The engine blew 3 days after the photoshoot. And it had only just been moded to run at 22psi.

JMO:D

thats why if i were him id boost alot lower daily driven and 22 lbs at the track well idk about 22 for like 350 it would be like 18 lbs depending on what other mods you have. and porting the head isnt really nesscary cause air is being forced into the cyclinder it could help though. and knife edgeing the crank isnt a good idea well maybe ligtly id just balance it.

Well you can get SRP pistons + Eagle rods for about $750. Good turbo cams...about $450. Then of course the whole turbo setup. New valves, valve sprigs, retainers. If you can do the work you can do it cheap. If not your looking at some $ I have a friend with a 97 Eclipse runnning low 11's with about 20-25 psi. It's not all about boost. It's about the other parts. You could also run high compression with conservative boost. Ever consider that?

SRP pistons do not mix well with boost. They're a high silicone forging designed for lower power levels, not 400+ HP.

If you want 400+ horsepower, it DOES NOT take 22+ pounds of boost.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=678078

Unported GSR head w/itr valvetrain, stock sleeves, stock intake, hondata, an SC61 and pump gas makes 430 WHP, with a 2.5" downpipe!

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid75/pe842119b039483c5886876c09acadbda/fb59bbd5.jpg

It's hard to see, but that's a 84MM, 10:1 GSR motor running 24 PSI from an SC61, he made 482 WHP @ 19 psi, goes by hybrid901 on honda-tech.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=664355

At 10psi the car made 305whp
15psi 354whp
20psi 427whp
23psi 465whp and 299tq

On a stock B16 with pistons, rods, blockguard, hondata, SC61

When it comes to turbo's and boost, a great deal of it depends of how well you tune it and how well you keep on it and keep it tuned. Tuning can make all the difference in the world, with power and reliabity alike. If your a master tech with extensive knowledge of tuning motors, you most likely will be albe to make more power and make it more safely (and keep up on keeping it tuned) more than the average joe will.

if you want to tune without a dyno, many people have suggested getting this.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com

if you want to tune without a dyno, many people have suggested getting this.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com

Man that looks nice wish I had $350 to spend on one though. It would be nice to have a wideband, but for $140 you can have your car tunned with a wideband and on a dyno by what is considered the "best" Honda/Acura tuner in Atlanta. :icon16:

ey.

From the feedback you guys are saying.. a b16a cant handle 22psi.. so .. maybe im gunning for 18psi... and can a b16a handle 390HP?? given that the block is change to a dart block.. and the internals changed, is that possible?? and im going to put in a t3/t4 turbo on the b16a..... all the stock parts are changed with the exeption of the tranny... is the 390Hp possible to get?? or can i get more??

ey.

From the feedback you guys are saying.. a b16a cant handle 22psi.. so .. maybe im gunning for 18psi... and can a b16a handle 390HP?? given that the block is change to a dart block.. and the internals changed, is that possible?? and im going to put in a t3/t4 turbo on the b16a..... all the stock parts are changed with the exeption of the tranny... is the 390Hp possible to get?? or can i get more??

Okay man, first we said a horsepower number is needed, not just PSI. You need a HP goal. So you want 390HP? Next, you'll have to figure out how much PSI, airflow, etc is needed. Now, we never said you that a built B16A can't achive that power and psi level. It's basically not the most streetable motor in the world. You can re-sleeve your block and build it to handle the needed power levels, you can buy a dart block, which they say is already built to handle power. The point is, it seems like you already miss-understood things we said. Don't just pick a number and say, "I'm doing this becuase it's cool." A B16A CAN be built to handle 390HP. It can be build to handle more. But it WON't be a motor you want to run around driving daily. Such a set-up is not an optimal set-up for a daily driver, to say the least.

ah...

coz my goal is a fast car but can be driven daily?? any one can give me adivice on the issue?? on how much power do i need?? to build a 12sec or faster honda civic?? with turbo... and all... but can be driven daily?? how much HP do i need and how much psi and airflow is needed?? please help... need your advice.. thanx..

ah...

coz my goal is a fast car but can be driven daily?? any one can give me adivice on the issue?? on how much power do i need?? to build a 12sec or faster honda civic?? with turbo... and all... but can be driven daily?? how much HP do i need and how much psi and airflow is needed?? please help... need your advice.. thanx..

There is more to speed than just power...tires... are you using street tires or drag slicks? How much weight is in the car...did you remove some things to lighten the car; the spare tire, wheel jack, sound deadening, etc...or did you load 3 12" subs in there, increasing the weight? A "12 second car, lots of HP, turbo'd, etc, but still daily drivable," isnt the isn't most ideal set-up for a speedy but daily drivable car. Still, like I said, more than hp is part of the speed eqaution. A ROUGH hp goal is still needed, at the very least. Saying, "I want a 12 second car" is not that easy. Speed isn't cheap by any means, and proper planning of what is needed is to build such a car isn't as easy as saying "I want a 12 second car, where do I start."

ow... yah... im going to get some weight reduction stuff.. like light weight seats... nope i ddnt put some new speakers.. im not to hot on those sound shit.... but i ddnt take off the rear seats....i want it to be a little show car too.. but also i want it to be a fast car...Im planning to get the following stuff:

Cp pistons - 8.5:1 w/rings
Crower Con rods
Crower Cams
Dart Blocks
Cometic Gaskets
ARP studs and blots...
Ferrea Valve Kit
Cusco oil catch tank
Walbro Fuel pump
BBk throttle Bodies

Fluidyne Radiator
FAL Radiator Fan
HKS Super Sequential BOV
Drag High flow 4 into 1 cast iron turbo exhaust manifold
Turbonetics T3/T4 High flow turbocharger assembly
Turbonetics Deltagate Mark II Wastegate (7 PSI Spring)
Drag High Flow front mount intercooler w/polished cast aluminum end tanks
Drag mandrel bent high flow chrome plated intercooler pipes
Drag mandrel bent high flow exhaust down pipe
Drag wastegaste dump tube assembly
Drag Blue silicone hose and hose clamps
Drag High pressure/High volume inline fuel pump
Drag Boost dependent FMU fuel regulator
Intake air filter assembly
Map sensor bypass valves
Stainless steel braided oil feed line w/ fittings
Oil return assembly
AEM Cold Air intake
DC sports 4-2-1 stainless headers
MSD Ignition System
Vortech Fuel Rails
RC eng. Fuel injectors
Magnacore Spark Plug Wires


And More parts..... (im too tired to type)

But i got no problem with the $$$.... i can spend 20,000 - 25,000.... i just want to make my civic b16a.. run fast.. but still maintain a show car look... please help.. do i need more parts?? and what advice can u give me guys??

ow... yah... im going to get some weight reduction stuff.. like light weight seats... nope i ddnt put some new speakers.. im not to hot on those sound shit.... but i ddnt take off the rear seats....i want it to be a little show car too.. but also i want it to be a fast car...Im planning to get the following stuff:

Cp pistons - 8.5:1 w/rings
Crower Con rods
Crower Cams
Dart Blocks
Cometic Gaskets
ARP studs and blots...
Ferrea Valve Kit
Cusco oil catch tank
Walbro Fuel pump
BBk throttle Bodies

Fluidyne Radiator
FAL Radiator Fan
HKS Super Sequential BOV
Drag High flow 4 into 1 cast iron turbo exhaust manifold
Turbonetics T3/T4 High flow turbocharger assembly
Turbonetics Deltagate Mark II Wastegate (7 PSI Spring)
Drag High Flow front mount intercooler w/polished cast aluminum end tanks
Drag mandrel bent high flow chrome plated intercooler pipes
Drag mandrel bent high flow exhaust down pipe
Drag wastegaste dump tube assembly
Drag Blue silicone hose and hose clamps
Drag High pressure/High volume inline fuel pump
Drag Boost dependent FMU fuel regulator
Intake air filter assembly
Map sensor bypass valves
Stainless steel braided oil feed line w/ fittings
Oil return assembly
AEM Cold Air intake
DC sports 4-2-1 stainless headers
MSD Ignition System
Vortech Fuel Rails
RC eng. Fuel injectors
Magnacore Spark Plug Wires


And More parts..... (im too tired to type)

But i got no problem with the $$$.... i can spend 20,000 - 25,000.... i just want to make my civic b16a.. run fast.. but still maintain a show car look... please help.. do i need more parts?? and what advice can u give me guys??

Okay dude, I'll give you some advice. Do your homework and do some research. You obviously don't have a clue as to what you are saying. First of all, you want a turbo motor, and listed turbo components, including a turbo manifold. Then you list a DC Sports 4-2-1 header (BTW, it's HEADER...NOT HEADERS...YOU HAVE AN INLINE 4, IT HAS ONLY 1 EXHAUST MANIFOLD). When you turbocharge a vehicle, the turbo exhaust manifold replaces the header or the stock manifold. A header is used on an NA car, not a turbo car. You can't have a header on a turbo car, and can't have "headers" on a honda. Honda's are 4-bangers with 1 exhaust manifold. They have only one header, not headers. Second, an 8.5:1 c/r is going to create god awful power during the turbo lag before the turbo kicks in. Also, you want a "fast car, but a "show car" too. Then you say "you don't really want stereo." I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but in order to have a complete show car, ICE (in car entertainment: stereo, a/v, dvd, ps2, etc) is a very important part. Your not going to have much of a show car with out these. I can pick out more stuff incorrect, but that's not the point. You obviously pulled out a catalog and put toghter a list of parts that sounds cool. This doesn't work in the real world. You are building a car to be cool, not because it's your hobby and passion. Sit back and realize just how much $20000-25000 really is. These are all the wrong reasons to drop money on a vehicle. That's an awful lot of money to spend, especially when you don't know what you are doing. You put toghter a list of parts that don't all fit and go toghter, a list that sounds cool, sounds "showy" and sounds fast. This all won't go toghter, I listed some examples above. You don't need my help building a fast motor, or anyone elses. You need to sit back and do your homework first. Learn about cars, engines, the scene, etc. Don't just throw your money around. You want this for all the wrong reasons. Do your homework first. As I said, you don't need help, you need to calm down and learn how the real world works. No one is going to give you any helpful and honest advice until then.

OW.. thanks... so i mean the the exhaust manifold or the stock header will be replaced to a turbo manifold?? thanks... what do u min with if i put in 8.5:1 C/R it would give a lot of power?? ey.... Dude, where the heck can i get some stuff to learn about turboing and stuff??/ and cars... and etc... where can i get those stuff that i should learn before i start my project car? please help...

This really is a pretty pitiful resource if you actually want to build a fast car, but your plan sounds like a pipe dream that won't happen, so i'm not going to waste my time typing out some sugestions for you. www.honda-tech.com

OW.. thanks... so i mean the the exhaust manifold or the stock header will be replaced to a turbo manifold?? thanks... what do u min with if i put in 8.5:1 C/R it would give a lot of power?? ey.... Dude, where the heck can i get some stuff to learn about turboing and stuff??/ and cars... and etc... where can i get those stuff that i should learn before i start my project car? please help...

i have a GREAT book for you. pretty much, a turbo bible!!!

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0837601606/qid=1075338607//ref=pd_ka_1/103-3651264-4810249?v=glance&s=books&n=507846

also, check out the automotive section of www.howstuffworks.com

and dude, i dont think you really have a concept of just how fast a 12 second car is. why dont you do things in moderation, and then if you feel like you need more power, step it up a little bit. a 400hp street car will be very hard and dangerous to drive if you are new to it; dont sneeze, cause if your foot twitches a little, your lookin to be face to face with a telephone pole.


hope that helps!!!

thanks man..

ey.. how much HP do u suggest to make a fast car?? and how much psi?? is 390HP ok for a street car?? and about 15psi??

dude, 390 on a what...2500lb.(with the show equipment you want + whatever a civic weighs i guess 2500 is about right) car is a lot!!!!

you will be breaking into the 12's easily if youre able to get traction. like i said dude, do it in moderation, and then see if your comfortable handliing more power. start off just midly turboing the engine. cant even remember which one you were talking about, but im sure the b16(or whatever you were getting) can handle 6lbs. on stock internals no problem. forgive me on my lack of knowledge with honda engines and there hp figures, but that should give you close to 200 hp at the wheels( if the b16 puts out 170), which in a light car, is pretty damn fast.

not to hijack or anything, but i saw "boosted" and many others post something about hondata. what the hell is this? stand alone system? piggyback?

This really is a pretty pitiful resource if you actually want to build a fast car, but your plan sounds like a pipe dream that won't happen, so i'm not going to waste my time typing out some sugestions for you. www.honda-tech.com

That's exactly how I feel, and what I was eluding to in my last post as well. He doesn't grasp the conecpt of anything you type. He keeps going back to "how much power and psi..." He doesn't comprihend what is said. I mean, he goes straight back to, how much power and psi, etc...after anything you tell him. He's dreaming it because it's trendy, popular, and cool. Not because he loves cars and is an automotive enthusiast. I you said, it's not worth wasting time over. He needs to slow down and realize how the real world works.

dude, 390 on a what...2500lb.(with the show equipment you want + whatever a civic weighs i guess 2500 is about right) car is a lot!!!!

you will be breaking into the 12's easily if youre able to get traction. like i said dude, do it in moderation, and then see if your comfortable handliing more power. start off just midly turboing the engine. cant even remember which one you were talking about, but im sure the b16(or whatever you were getting) can handle 6lbs. on stock internals no problem. forgive me on my lack of knowledge with honda engines and there hp figures, but that should give you close to 200 hp at the wheels( if the b16 puts out 170), which in a light car, is pretty damn fast.

not to hijack or anything, but i saw "boosted" and many others post something about hondata. what the hell is this? stand alone system? piggyback?

A Hondata is a Honda ecu, it is programable, etc. Hondata cracked thje codes and re-writes it. This is an AWFUL explaination. Someone else can take it better. I know what it is, but I want to go too in-detph, and I have limited time. (wow, who'd have thought? LOL) It's your ecu, think stand alone in that regard. Import Tuner has an article on the Hondata S200 this month. If your hard up for info about hondata, check it out. It'll give you an idea at least.

ow... i wanna do it one time... coz... im ordering stuff from abroad... but im gunning 350-390 HP.....and im going to get rid some use less stuff in the car too

ow... im not goin to build a car thats for show... just some skirts and bumbers and lights and stuff.. not those cars that has PS2 consoles and stuff... just skirts and stuff...

please read that book and that site inside and out before you order anything PLEASE!!!

and you better hope that 100shot of NAWWZZZ doesnt blow the welds on the intake manifold.lol

seriously dude, you dont have a concept of just how much hp that is and how hard it is to maintain a car making that kind of power if you dont know what youre doing.

thanks for the little explanation eckoman, ill search around a bit for it.

EDIT http://www.hondata.com/techfaq.html

so do you send your ecu to them and have them make it programmable so you can tune it yourself, or do they send you equipment to make it programmable your self?

either way, it seems like a VERY good deal. good up to 28psi with a 3bar MAP sensor. all on the stock ecu. impressive.

please read that book and that site inside and out before you order anything PLEASE!!!

and you better hope that 100shot of NAWWZZZ doesnt blow the welds on the intake manifold.lol

seriously dude, you dont have a concept of just how much hp that is and how hard it is to maintain a car making that kind of power if you dont know what youre doing.

thanks for the little explanation eckoman, ill search around a bit for it.

No problem, always glad to help. If you have any more question after you look stuff up, feel free to ask. And yes, that guy has no clue about anything, he wanted to put on "a turbo manifold and DC-SPorts 4-2-1 headers (sic)" to quote some of the things he listed. I mean, he has no concept of anything, he can't grasp any the the typed concepts when it comes to cars and what has been typed in here. I'm all for helping people out. I help plenty of people out on here. But when someone obiviously has no clue, can't grasp a thing being said, and types some much junk he just seems like a kid with pipe dreams, doing it to be cool....there no was you can really give him adivce except, save your money and do your homework on cars...study up. Your right. He has no concept of how much power or how fast that is in the real world. He just picks numbers and products that sound cool. You can't build a car that way, you can't really build anything in life successfully that way. As I said to him in an eariler post in this thread..."Don't just throw your money around. You want this for all the wrong reasons. Do your homework first. As I said, you don't need help, you need to calm down and learn how the real world works. No one is going to give you any helpful and honest advice until then."

These are great numbers, my only problem is that no power is made until like 6000 rpms. Has anyone done this and obtained power right through the band.

SRP pistons do not mix well with boost. They're a high silicone forging designed for lower power levels, not 400+ HP.

If you want 400+ horsepower, it DOES NOT take 22+ pounds of boost.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=678078

Unported GSR head w/itr valvetrain, stock sleeves, stock intake, hondata, an SC61 and pump gas makes 430 WHP, with a 2.5" downpipe!

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid75/pe842119b039483c5886876c09acadbda/fb59bbd5.jpg

It's hard to see, but that's a 84MM, 10:1 GSR motor running 24 PSI from an SC61, he made 482 WHP @ 19 psi, goes by hybrid901 on honda-tech.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=664355

At 10psi the car made 305whp
15psi 354whp
20psi 427whp
23psi 465whp and 299tq

On a stock B16 with pistons, rods, blockguard, hondata, SC61

Here is where I stand, I'm currently building an ls integra motor to be bullet proof (well nothing is but close to it) I plan on putting 350 to the floor but my engine will have greater potential than that.

I spoke to my machine shop and he told me not to waste my time with sleeves. When honda casts the block sometimes there are pores or air pockets in the aluminum and when the oil pressure goes up it may blast through the wall and you have water and oil mix, and there goes all your work. Plus sleeving costs over 1000 close to 1500 to do it right. (yes you can find some shop to do it for less but it wont be done right) for an extra 500 bucks buy a dart block, its well worth it.

here is where I am
Dart block bearings, oil pump, oil jets and bolts, washers etc. and labor for the short block ran me $3106 (including balancing flywheel, crank etc.)

Je 81.5mm 8.5:1 pistons, crower rods, $1200

crower turbo cams, springs and retainers, stainless steel valves $900

Turbo kit $995 rev hard parts Garrett gt28rs turbo (t3/t4 drop in) I know the turbo is small but instant boost should make about 350 hp.

Right now I am having the head machined and I'm probably looking at 1200 dollars. (If anyone plans on doing this do extrude honing, I'm kicking myself for not doing it, its the newest greatest stuff)

I also have victor x manifold $350, and place racing engine mounts $300, Cometic head gasket $100

I still need a clutch $400 and LSD $800 head studs $120.

A little over 8000 and I still don't have Engine management.

When its all said and done it better fly, if I can get it running right. For those looking to build go for it, its still a lot less money than a supra or evo or something like that, my car is capable or more than what I'm putting down but thats for future upgrades. Keep in mind this is in a 94 hatch with a 95 integra ls engine $3700 for the car and engine, which weighs about 2100lbs. <-- big difference over a supra or some other high hp car, less hp = same quarter mile time.

I hope all this babbling helps. Good luck

I am so sick of this "you can't re-sleeve a honda block, so I am going to buy a dart" Bull**it. Know what you say before you say it. This bad information is spreading at epidmic proportions. First off, whoever told you that has no clue what he is saying, ro doesn't know who to install the sleeve properly. Go an re-sleeve your block with a good set of sleeves like AEBS, it WILL NOT do that. Racing honda's, re-sleeving the blocks, etc is nothing knew, by any means. Go and tell the drag racers and companies, the pioneers who have been doing this for 10 years, that their motor won't work because it is a stock block re-sleeved. Sorry to say, but the motors DID work. Their motors, race results, the facts...they speak for themselves. I have called dart and talked to them myself, they had a creatoive defination of "wet sleeves" versus "dry sleeves." Theior defination was different from EVERY shop, parts manufactorer, machine shop, and OEM I have ver spoken with. All this "stock blocks can't be re-sleeved" crap is just bad info, some creative marketing from dart, or both. Furthermore, you can't use a dart block if you race, you can only use a honda block as the base. None of the sanctioning racing bodies approve the dart block for useage, and as it stands now, none will for a long time. If you race, you can ONLY use a honda block, and you'd BE SMART to re-sleeve it. As I said, check the facts. Re-sleeving works. Of course, they don't want you to know that, it takes money out of their pocket.Honda's have been being build for a good decade in this Honda's have been being build for a good decade in this country. Over that period, MANY honda motors have been raced and re-sleeved. It was worked fine. It's not as if it was bad, and suddenly DART makes block, this god awful problem is solved, and DART saved the day. They just WANT you to think re-sleeving is god awful and will ruin your motor. The truth is, if you use good sleeves and have them installed by a machine shop that is compatent (or have the manufactorer install them), yoo'll be fine. Don't beilive every thing you here. I am so sick of people jumping on thr dart block and head bandwagon...it makes me sick...do you know what a dart head is??? A NEW CAST STOCK GSR HEAD, cnc ported and polished by dart, and then hand finished. This is the SAME FRIGGEN THING as a good head porter does. They talk all about how theirs is so much better, and try and give out info that scared people from having their honda head ported and polished. In all truth though, thats all a dart head is, a stock GSR head, ported and polished by them.