need a new engine

i have a 95 tsi with lots ' crank walk ...so i guess i need a new motor...i am new to the DSM scene and i was wondering if anyone had some recommendations...here is what i figure

1) i can put another 2G motor in

2) i can put a JDM 4G63 6 bolt

3) i can buy an old 1G motor, rebuild it and put it in

bascially i want it faster than stock, but nothing too crazy...it will mostly be used as a daily driver...what would be my best performance for the money option? also, anyone know of any good websites? (i already grabbed these 2 from other threads www.dsmtrader.com and www.jspecautosports.com) thanxs for the help!

chuck
dying 95 tsi

but first u got to tell us how much money u got?

hrm, good question...well, i would like to keep it around $2,500...though a little more or little less would be aight!

http://www.osakajdmmotors.com/ give this web site a try you might find it usfull hope it helps

Y not just rebuild the block you have now, I think that the oil squirters are what causes the crank walk. They draw off the oil in the thrust bearing, causeing the bearings to wear VERY quickly.

This is usualy because the oil squirters are stuck open.

Just what i saw somewhere.

thanxs! i will check it out

Y not just rebuild the block you have now, I think that the oil squirters are what causes the crank walk. They draw off the oil in the thrust bearing, causeing the bearings to wear VERY quickly.

This is usualy because the oil squirters are stuck open.

Just what i saw somewhere.

i wouldn't mind rebuilding my engine, except for the whole 7-bolt crank walk issue...if there is a way, during the rebuild, to eliminate the crank walk problem, then i would probably do that...do u know where i might find this info at? or where to get it done? a friend at work mentioned a company that sold a 7 bolt "crank walkless" motor...he is trying to find the info for me...

I also heard from another forum that another cause could be improper matching of the crank thrust surface on the bearing.

Apperantly you can remove your crank(and there is a stamping on it somewhere). Then you bring that info to Mitsubishi and they can sell you special bearings for the crank. Apperantly mitsubishi had a series of cranks that were not properly machined and that could cause crankwalk.

This is just what i have heared. If anyone else has heard this plz post.

I also heard from another forum that another cause could be improper matching of the crank thrust surface on the bearing.

Apperantly you can remove your crank(and there is a stamping on it somewhere). Then you bring that info to Mitsubishi and they can sell you special bearings for the crank. Apperantly mitsubishi had a series of cranks that were not properly machined and that could cause crankwalk.

This is just what i have heared. If anyone else has heard this plz post.

yeah, i read that somewhere too...though, if i already have crank walk dont i need to replace the engine?

I dont think you need to replace the engine. I think it is just the bearings that are affected. If it isnt TOO bad.

But you should try calling your mitsubishi dealer and see if someone in the Cervice department can help you out with this, if you talk to a technician then you will get the best info possible.

Many people rebuild there motors after crankwalk. I have a friend that puts new bearings in every 5-6 months. He is fucking crazy.

I think maby he neds to use the proper bearings and un-clog his oil squirters, and then he wont have to do it every 6 months.

I would suggest to people not to claim to know what "the" cause of crankwalk is, there are MANY ;) It could be any single one, several, or any combination of them all. There is no one fix. I would venture a guess that of all the poeple that try to save a cranlwaked motor, maybe 5% succeed. And the poeple that go changing bearings and the like before it CWs, are likely to just cause it sooner. ;) Any 7 bolt (or any motor really) can CW, at any mileage, for any reason. I lost a motor because the oil cooler loosened up. Lost another because the bottom of the oil pan was dented. Others will just fail on thier own.

Like I said to the original poster earlier, the most bang for the buck is a used, relatively low mileage (100k or so) 1g 6 bolt. I did my whole (first) swap for less than 1500, and that included a freshly rebuilt head and an engine hoist. :) And since we all know how strong the 6 bolt motors are stock (500+ whp) it will cover most poeples realistic goals. But is important to consider the drawbacks to a swap too. Like the random msifire plague you will inevitably get. Which requires a hack job baro wire trick, or DSMlink. Since the car in question is a 95, there is a 95% chance it has the EPROM ECU required to run DSMlink, and since the budget of 2500 is more than enough to do the swap (using my 1500 example) there is plenty left for the 600 dollar DSMlink. DSLink is the best investment I have made yet I might add. It is the only "correct" way to run a 6 bolt in a 2g, in my humble opinion ;)

Hope it helps.

What exactly is "DSM Link" and what other things do u need to run a 6 bolt engine in a 95-99 dsm?