ABS System Questions 95' Aurora

I was told that the front right ABS Wheel Sensor is bad and needs replaced. This sensor alone is approx. $250.00 for one. Is it at all possible to completely remove the ABS system from this 95 Aurora (and still have the vehicle function properly) or just to bypass it somehow so that the ABS doesn't work at all. Also if I go without changing the sensor what will result because of it, besides the ABS light on the dash being on all the time and the TCS light being on at all times.

is the abs and traction control light on? cause mines been on for about 7 months now and i have no problems with my brakes, just dont have abs.

Inoperative is one thing, trying to remove the system itself, bad idea!

Yes the ABS Light and the TCS light both are on. Whenever the car is started it will make some funny noises until those lights come on. Sounds like some humming or like a small electrical motor is running. One time I unhooked the battery long enough to clear the codes from the computer and then started the car and then the service engine soon light came on. Turned the car off, started it up a few minutes later and the service engine soon light turned off, but the abs and tcs were still on. So I am concluding there is some electrical system malfunctioning. And its most likely ABS or TCS. And since one place already told me the ABS wheel sensor is bad then thats most likely it.

I had the same problem - ABS and Trac Lights on.
System worked 90% of the time. Over a 6 month period on line performance dropped to 10%. Same noises when starting during diagnostic mode.
Turned out - I was low on brake fluid. Topped off fluid and the lights went out - system working A-ok ever since. (of course - now the question is - why low brake fluid... probably need new pads and rotors).

There is a small brake fluid reservoir on top of the traction control unit that is fed from the main reservoir. Both have sensors. Make sure the feed line is clear.

Indy8:

Well - my brake fluid top off only lasted 2 days - the ABS light is back on again...

Sounds like this may be my last check B4 hitting the garage.

Not to be dumb, but where is the traction control unit (and what does it look like)?.

Is the feed line you mentioned the large, hard rubber hose attached to the master cylinder? If so, where is the other end of the hose - I lost sight trying to follow it... How do I make sure the line is clear - remove it on both ends and flush?

Thanks -

Traction unit is between the radiator and trans body, at the bottom, looking straight down on the engine side of the airbox. Mine has a visible sticker on the side of it that reads "Traction". The ABS brain is the Ate box mounted to the drivers strut tower, next to the brake booster. The feed line is just a .5" hose running from the main reservoir, down under the coolant tank and over the trans into the top of the traction unit. You can carefully disconnect it at the bottom and let some fluid run out to see if it's clear. DO NOT let any air in the line or you will have to take it in to have the system bled properly. The brake system must be put under pressure then a scan tool must be used to open the valves inside the unit in the right sequence or it will not function right and you will always have a soft pedal. On second thought, I would'nt mess with it.

Another thing to keep in mind with the ABS systems on all cars- make sure when changing pads/rotors yourself you use a DIY brake bleeder kit and open the bleed valve when compressing the caliper. If you leave everything buttoned up tight while pushing the caliper in to fit your new thicker pads, you can force rust and dirt back up the line into the ABS system. That modulator that actually creates the pressure pulses to rapidly engage/disengage your brakes is mucho dinero in most cases. It's worth buying a $5-$10 plastic cup thingie and a pint of brake fluid every time I change my pads IMO.