My set-up...anything i need to add or t?ake away

plans for my 90 HB...car is mainly goin to be an weekend/ autocross car....anything i missed or need to add?

Suspension & Brakes
TEIN SS(-P) with EDFC
Suspension Techniiques sway bars (f & r)
Energy suspension kit
Neuspeed upper strut towers (f & r)
Ebay lower strut braces (f & r)
Custom welded roll cage
Integra front and rear disc brake conversion
15x7 Axis Maglite rims
Brembo Grand Turismo brake system
slotted rear rotors
Anything else?

Interior
Sparco Pista drivers' side seat
Sparco Torino 2 passenger seat
Sparco 4-point harness
CRX dash
4 pod pillar
SiR guage cluster
Gutted interior
Sparco CF pedals
Steering wheel?
Shift knob?
Shifter?
Anything else?

Exterior
Full combat kit
MDX antenna
JDM led spoiler
JDM side markers
JDM Civic Vtec taillights
S15 or JDM ITR headlamp conversion w/ HID
Shaved side moldings and rain gutters

Stereo
Pioneer head unit
Pioneer door speakers
Powered Bazooka NOS Bass tube :smokin: fakin the nawwwwzzzzz

Engine, exhaust, and turbo
Not sure yet

plans for my 90 HB...car is mainly goin to be an weekend/ autocross car....anything i missed or need to add?
Engine, exhaust, and turbo
Not sure yet
I'm pretty sure you might want to add some to that, just a thought :D

If the roll cage is done correctly you won't need "floor braces" or even a rear upper tie. If your investing in that Tein set-up then you should get a camber kit to take full advantage. You don't wan't 17's for autocross. Piss on the pedals since some sanctioning bodies(rule makers) won't allow those things unless it's an actual pedal, not a cheesy cover. Take all that $$$ for "exterior" & invest into performance.

camber kits

actually changing the rim size to 15x7 and the pedals are actual cf pedals not covers....bad experience with covers :banghead:

so what's the best camber kit to get?? thinking ingalls but there may be a better one

and my investment in the exterior is under $1k minus a paint job....besides...not everyone is happy with a stock exterior

and i'm looking into local areas that do roll cages

anything else i should add or take away?

i like spc balljoints but they are harder to install

even if ur doing weekend racing i think 4 pot calipers is a overboard just get 2 pot calipers. and kind of rotors do you plan on using? i would go for just slotted rotors

not sure what kind of rotors or pads to use

Brembo blanks or Power Slot, don't bother with cross-drilled. Flat, slotted and/or dimpled is the way to go. I like EBC green stuff - Hawk & I'ved heard AEM pads are decent. Don't go over board with "race only" pads/rotors for street or autocross - You'll never get the brakes hot enough to function correctly & they would be noisy as hell.

Suspension Techniques sway bars (f & r)

-are you sure the front sway bar is what you want. i remember people saying that all you need is the rear sway bar for an autocross setup.

CRX dash

-leave the hb dash and go with the integra center console.

Gutted interior

-eehhh gutted interior for a daily driver? nahhh our cars are light enough already.

Steering wheel?
Shift knob?
Shifter?
Anything else?

-maybe something mugen, ive always liked their interior accessories.

S15 or JDM ITR headlamp conversion w/ HID

-the itr headlights would look better than the s15 but thats a costly project.

Powered Bazooka NOS Bass tube :smokin: fakin the nawwwwzzzzz

-that would be awesome :lol:

Engine, exhaust, and turbo

- the most important part of your car, should really do this before the exterior.

also look into front crossmembers, and stronger axles. :2cents:

Suspension Techniques sway bars (f & r)

-are you sure the front sway bar is what you want. i remember people saying that all you need is the rear sway bar for an autocross setup.

I got the ST f/r bars, the rear nice & adjustable, the front is collecting dust. After playing around I found the stock front sway with poly bushings & ST rear sway was the best choice for my liking on the street. When I have gone autocrossin', the front gets completely removed. The ST front bar increased understeer, defeated the whole purpose of the rear. Each driver will like the car set-up a little differently, what works best you, only you know.

Be very careful when not using a front sway on the street, snap steer is very likely & 95% uncontrollable. It's most likely to occur during a high speed turn(entrance/exit ramp) You don't want to kill yourself of anyone else for that matter.

http://www.suspension.com/stam-bar.htm - sway bar info
http://www.suspension.com/civic.htm - poly bushings

If you plan on doing the ES kit yourself, Have a blast. I put mine in and it took over 80 hours but thats cause I had some trouble with it.
If you dont have access to a press then you have to make up your own way to do it.

The Tein EDFC stepping motors won't fit under a 4G Civic hood.

The Tein EDFC stepping motors won't fit under a 4G Civic hood.

i talked to a tech there last year and he assured me that they will fit but it will hit the skeleton of the hood....i'll just hve to remove that part of the skeleton to have them fit

optimuscivic

-i actually like the way the crx dash is angled towards the drive and that's why i'm prefer it

-the car isn't going to be daily driven......weekend

-i wrote what i'm doing the exterior b/c i already know what i'm going to do......just unsure about what i want under the hood just yet

-i'll look into front crossmembers and axles, thanx

Santas90Si

i'm making sure i have a press.....heard peoples bad stories w/o one

ok cool glad to hear that..I was going based on what [email protected] had said to me when I e-mailed them asking why the 4G Civic/2G CRX was listed as incompatible on their product matrix... maybe there will be a EDFC system in my future :-)...

BTW You might also want to consider the Cusco JDM front lower brace instead of the eBay unit... OptAuto.com sells it... I have it on my car and have been happy with the improvement it makes...
Here is a pic (courtesy of FourthGenHatch):
http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/photos/mods/mods-cuscoarmbar.jpg
It's one solid piece unlike the ebay units .. and not terribly expensive..

I am using the typical eBay rear upper .. it is ok.. nothing special.. seems to squeak a little... I sort of wish I got the Neuspeed unit..

I have the Neuspeed front upper that you listed.. I love it.. seems to be the best strut brace I've seen for this car.. I also have the rear lower and would recommend that unit as well...

I am also using the Tein SS's that you have on your list... they kick ass as well.. I am very pleased with them.. my only gripe would be the lack of any coating on the threads, as I have heard that they can rust... but I guess that's what grease is for... I'm using the Energy Suspension urethane strut bushings in the tops of the mounts... but only 1 of the 2 that go with each strut.. I have one stock rubber piece..just a little worried about noise/vibration.. since it's a daily driver.. You might want to consider using these with the Tein's.. or since it is a weekend warrior car... going with the full on pillowball style mounts....

Your set up sounds like it will be great..

Also.. you might like these..
http://www.orijinmotorsports.com/prodefen.html

think the Tein SS-P will have a better ride than the SS

oddly enough it gives a part # for the EDFC system with the SS-P for 88-91 civics

Ahh, the SS-P = w/ pillowball mounts.. ok...

It will ride worse than stock but it will handle better..

You are right.. they list EDKU1-12120 for the EDFC when using pillowball mounts... the strut rods must sit a little lower with those mounts..

i know that with the stock style mounts.. the top of the strut sticks out quite a bit farther than the stock struts...

Seems like SS-P w/ EDFC would be the way to go then...

the EDFC is very cool :)...

I can def feel the difference between 4 clicks out and 10 clicks out :-).. but , to tell the truth.. it isn't that big a diff... they ride great even when they are set to stiffer than the recommend setting... i think the choice of spring has the most to do with how harsh a modified car rides... and the SS springs seem to strike a nice balance between lowered/stiff and stock mushiness...

is there a real advantage of having pillowball mounts??

hey blue how much money are you planning on putting into your setup? i know just those teins alone are costly. sounds like it will be sweet though. :bigthumb:

i really don't plan on having the car on the road for another 2 years.....itz me and my sons' project....total investment wise....i'm thinkin about mabey 15k....1/3 of it on the suspension.....1/3 of it on the engine set-up....rest on astetics and labor costs and the cost of broken stuff :p

i'm hoping less than 15k though...get some extra money when i sell the bumpers, headlights, interior parts like the seats and stuff.....hopefully i'll get enough from that to actually buy something

not that i autox or anything ... hell i only really know what i hear from people about it ... but i would first check out the diffrent classes cause you might find out that you only qualify for the highest level with all that stuff. I would keep it to the end part of the stock class till you get better at it then start to move of the classes. seems kinda silly to start with the highest performance and best drivers when your starting out.

thats just my two cents though. im sure someone here has a link to the autox web site(s) so you can check on what they allow and what not. cause it would suck to do all that work and find out because you have X item you dont qualify for any of them.