97 Check Engine Light/Rough Idle - HELP PLEASE!

When I went out to get in my Ranger to go to work, the clutch went out...Major bummer!!! At least I think my clutch went out. When I depress the clutch, the transmission does NOT disengage as it should. Also, I have to force the shifter into gear and the only gear that I can get is 2nd. Lost the hydraulic pressure as well...Sounds like the clutch to me.

So I drove the Explorer to work. The Explorer was my mother's and I need to sell it to pay for her funeral, but it's not running well enough to sell right now.

The day after the funeral, the check engine light came on and the idle (when in OD at a stop) became extremely erratic (idling at 400 - 600 RPM - prior idle was about 1100 RPM). My boyfriend replaced the plugs and wires and the Explorer ran great (with the check engine light OFF) until we drove it 25 miles to my aunt's. While my boyfriend was letting the Explorer warm up (about 15 - 20 minutes) so that we could go home, the check engine light came back on and the idle became erratic again. Back to square one!

We took the Explorer to AutoZone and had them use the code machine on the explorer. The code machine showed a random misfire on cylinders 4 and 6. It also showed that the engine was running lean. The AutoZone guy suggested that the oxygen sensors could cause those codes, if they were bad (but not bad enough to cause the oxygen sensor codes to be read). So I replaced the two front oxygen sensors ($120 for the pair). I did not have the rear (behind the catalytic converter) oxygen sensor replaced. The check engine light did NOT go off when the sensors were changed. The AutoZone guy also told us to clean the plugs and bring the Explorer back up to AutoZone so that he could clear the computer. We did that and the guy cleared the computer. However, when he checked the computer again it showed random misfires in 4, 5, and 6 with the engine still running lean.

The AutoZone guy suggested to my boyfriend (I was not there) that we replace the PCV valve as it would affect the idle, if the valve was plugged. Yesterday, my boyfriend replaced the PCV valve. The old PCV valve was NOT plugged. We started the Explorer and let it run for about 15 minutes. Again the check engine light has not gone OFF, but the idle has INCREASED to 700 - 800 RPM.

I am going to go by AutoZone on the way home tonight and have the codes checked again...I'm at a loss. Does anyone have any ideas on what we should do next? I can't afford to put either vehicle in the shop right now. I think my boyfriend will be able to replace the clutch on my Ranger, when I can afford it. I certainly do NOT want to do any more damage to the Explorer by driving it, but I have not choice - I must get to work.

Here's the specs on the Explorer:

1997
2wd
4.0 SOHC EFI
Auto Trans
108,000 miles

The plugs, wires, PCV valve, and oxygen sensors all appeared to be factory original parts (Motorcraft).

PLEASE HELP!!!

Thank you! April in OK

I've had some input from friends who say I need to change the fuel filter...Any other ideas?

It sounds as if the Ranger needs a new throw-out bearing for the clutch mechanism.

The Explorer needs to have the fuel injectors and throttle body serviced. I had the same exact problem with mine, but all they did ( at the dealership ) was service the F.I. and throttle body. It cost around $200 but most of that was labor.

Thanks Mendari!

The clutch on the Ranger started working again last night, but the clutch pedal is way loose (like it's lost hydraulic pressure). My boyfriend's dad thinks that the problem with the Ranger is related to the "slave cylinder".

We decided to take the Explorer to a mechanic and have it put on a computer. That way we will know exactly what is wrong with it.

Thanks again! April

Hmmm, the slave cylinder? I would try that solution after working on the throw-out bearings and clutch spring mechanism first. These components are wear and tear items that need to be replaced around 70K miles for most cars or trucks.
Clutches are similiar to the braking system on cars in that the pads usually wear out long before the master cylinder needs to be replaced.

Check the fluid level in the slave master cylinder first, it may be low. If OK and problem still there then replace slave cylinder and bleed the hydralics. This does not require removing the transmission. It doesn't sound like you have a throw-out bearing problem if clutch started working again. Keep us informed on your progress on both vehicles.

Thanks for the reply XLT03! The fluid is full.

Do either of you know if the slave cylinder is considered part of the "clutch lining"? I have an extended warranty on the Ranger, but I know that "clutch linings" are not covered under my warranty. The Ranger is at a local Ford dealer right now. They are going to inspect the clutch and determine if the problem is covered under my warranty or not. Either way it will cost me $50 (warranty deductible) or $70 (clutch inspection, if not covered under warranty).

Thank you both for your help!

April

Do either of you know if the slave cylinder is considered part of the "clutch lining"? I have an extended warranty on the Ranger, but I know that "clutch linings" are not covered under my warranty. The Ranger is at a local Ford dealer right now.

The slave cylinder is a hydraulic pump that assists the mechanical components for smoother and easier operation. It is not a normal wear and tear item and therefore might be covered under your warranty.
If the fluid in the pump is contaminated with dirt, water, or air, then you will have intermittent problems as mentioned by XLT03.
For more information on transmission anatomy, try this website.
http://www.howstuffworks.com

and search for the term "clutch".
It's a neat site with plenty of information on almost anything you can think of.

The slave cylinder is a hydraulic pump that assists the mechanical components for smoother and easier operation. It is not a normal wear and tear item and therefore might be covered under your warranty.
If the fluid in the pump is contaminated with dirt, water, or air, then you will have intermittent problems as mentioned by XLT03.
For more information on transmission anatomy, try this website.
http://www.howstuffworks.com

and search for the term "clutch".
It's a neat site with plenty of information on almost anything you can think of.


What was the problem with your explorer?