95 escort lack of power

Hi, I have a '95 Escort station wagon (my son's car) with a 1.9L engine, manual tranny. About six months ago, out of the blue, the power just dropped off. It has gotten much worse since then, When driving it and you floor it (or at least accelerate), it feels like someone put their hand over the carb (old time term), or over the air cleaner inlet, or plugged off the exhaust pipe, just runs like a dog (no power). Going up even a small hill in town requires low gear. But it would probably do 100 on the interstate, if you had a long, flat road (maybe a slight downhill slope, ha). No missing, really, just no power. Tried a bottle of injector cleaner that didn't help at all. Well, finally I've started trying to diagnose the problem. No 'service engine' light ever came on. I have had this car to two GOOD mechanics in town, and now finally it has been at the Ford dealer's garage for over a week and they are tearing their hair out. Between all three, I'm sure they have checked everything at least twice. We have put in new plugs, wires (twice,sad to say), fuel pump, swapped ignition modules from a known good car. Checked exhaust back pressure, mass air flow sensor, compression, cyl. balance, etc, etc, etc. I'm running out of troubleshooting money.

Allow me to take up a little more space, if I could. There is a lot that I'm not sure of, as the mechanics themselves would say they checked everything (but give no detailed list), but here's to the best of my recollection. The car starts and idles fine, but while driving it sometimes runs poorly. (This is addition to the extreme lack of power). Also, the gas mileage is about half of what it was previously, down from about 35 mpg to about 20 mpg.

Mechanic #1
At that time, it had a miss also, so he put in new plugs and plug wires. That cured the miss, but he didn't have time for further analysis, except that he said it could be:
A) exhaust pluggage
B) dirty injector. (wanted to run a complete injector flush deal, whatever that was)
C) said that he cleaned and (recharged or something) the MAF sensor
D) nothing showed up his big computer, but he did say that the plugs were badly burnt, like it had been running lean for some time.

Mechanic #2 had it for a few days and checked a bunch of stuff, then checked the fuel pump pressure and said it was bad. We brought the car home and put in a new fuel pump from Napa. Still ran the same. Just had a new fuel filter recently, so didn't change it again. We took it back to him (he rechecked the pressure and said it was still low pressure), he found out that there was a bad Schrader valve in that test connection, replaced it, and pressure was ok, so probably the old fuel pump was ok, too. Left it there and he checked the following:
A) put it on his smaller computer and said the ignition all looked fine.
B) said the exhaust pressure seemed fine at about 1# backpressure when they revved it up.
C) not sure if he checked the MAF sensor
D) checked the timer belt and timing
E) said he checked everything else, but don't have a complete list.
F) said a dirty injector will usually cause a miss, so didn't go further
G) said it could possibly be a bad ignition module, but didn't want to just replace it, as for the expense and it did check out ok on his machine.

Mechanics #3 (Ford Dealer) Also, kind of hard to say ALL of what they checked, as they sure don't say much, but I do know that they checked the following:

They did put on new plug wires (again) and:
A) fuel pressure check = ok
B) ran injector test = ok
C) spark duration relative compression test = all ok
D) exhaust back pressure = ok
E) regapped plugs = ok
F) install new spark plug wires = ok
G) test coil pack = ok
H) test ignition module = ok

Costs so far:
Mechanic #1 $130
Mechanic #2 $ 200 - 250 my estimate
Ford dealer $ 384
Fuel pump $ 85 - we installed
Grand Total $ 799 - 849 (so far)

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, still runs as bad or worse than before.
Allen

try m.a.f.sensor first.disconnect and see how it runs,(might set engine code).check the cat and see if its loose,could be plugging exhaust on revs.

I noticed no one checked or replaced the O2 sensor. That has every thing to do with gas milage, performance and air fuel ratio, it could cause the white colored spark plugs and loss of power but a lean condition doesnt exsplain bad gas milage, they conterdict them self's.
There about $60 for a direct replacement and should be changed every 60k.
A CEL will not allways come on for a bad O2, it could be riding on the boarder line of failing.

A compresstion test might not be a bad idea.

Unpluging the MAF will prove that the fail safe defult mode works and thats about it, MAF can go bad and cause bucking and drivability problems, but if it was tested I would move on to other things...like the O2 sensor.

On another note, I would ask for a refund from the shops that did not fix the problem but charged you anyways.

Thanks for the ideas and help everyone. Right now, I have the car back at mechanic #1, as he is probably the most proficient and never had the time previously to real delve into it. I’ll keep you updated and pass along the list of things to check to him.

Allen

Check this out, Jack up the back of your car and try to spin the back tires, I had the E-BRAKE stick on mine even after the lever was back down all the way.
What happens is the part that the E-BRAKE cable goes into (i'm taking by the brake pads) will rust and stick and the for your rear brakes wont release all the way. I had to take mine all apart and wd-40 them and beat on them to come lose.
Check it out i'll beat thats your problem.
I had to replace the pads because they got so hot that they cracked. Keep us posted . Thanks

Thanks homefree,
I'll add it to my list of things to check when I get it home from mechanic #1.

Allen

my 1993 went to a jump power phase too. It turns out it a very common thing for the escort. simple solution is the timing belt...needs to be replaced.

check out the timing belt...

Thanks Rare_Fate, another thing to add to my list. If this mechanic (where the car is at now) can't figure it out, it's coming back to my garage and work on it myself until I figure something out.
Thanks again,
Allen

Escort Update 01-16-04

I also have a ’95 Escort of my own that my son was using while the mechanics were working on his. I got his Escort back from mechanic #1, who really didn’t have a lot of time to work on it for very long. My son came home this weekend and we started swapping and checking parts. We checked the following:

1. Timing belt WAS checked out previously by mechanic #2.
2. Had the catalytic converter and exhaust checked at Midas for back pressure, etc., and they said all is fine.
3. Hook up vacuum gauge. 15-16” vacuum at idle (same as my good-running Escort). We are at nearly 5000 feet above sea level. Unhooked ALL vacuum line from central manifold (vacuum distributor) and plug lines. Vacuum stayed about the same and engine ran the same or worse (normal, I’d say, for having some items not connected)
4. Checked EGR with vacuum pump tester -seems to work fine. Kills motor right away when vacuum is applied, returns to normal when vacuum removed.
5. Swap out PCM (power train control module) – no change
6. Ran with MAP sensor disconnected – no change (mechanic #1 had checked it previously and said it was ok).
7. Pulled connection from ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor and test drive. IMMEDIATELY HAD FULL POWER RESTORED, but only for about a minute or two of driving and then resorted to it’s old self. Hooked it back up and poor performance continued. Unhooked again and same FULL POWER for a few minutes.
8. Swap out ECT sensor – no change
9. Ran with O2 sensor disconnected – no change
10. Swap out O2 sensor – no change

Nearly back to square one, except that we can maybe rule out a few things.
By pulling the ECT connection, we feel that we gave it a rich mixture and caused the excellent running for a minute or two, but what is causing the lean mixture is still a mystery to me.

how many hoses to the oil filler cap?1/2/3/none?
poss maf/air leak.

Thanks for the reply mechy1barry,

No hoses going to the oil filler cap, it is just a screw-type cap on top the valve cover (camshaft cover?). It's an overhead cam engine.

We have tried a different MAF sensor from another car and can't hear any vacuum leaks, but that's not saying that there couldn't be any. Not sure of the best way to check for vac leaks. I used my hand vac pump on each vacuum line going to the vac distributor with the car off and the ones that should hold vacuum do (checked them against my good Escort). Don't know how to check for a vac leak around the MAF sensor.
Thanks again.

Did you check to see if your rear brakes are releasing? When i used my parking brake they wouldn't release all the way. This maybe part of your problem. Yours maybe hanging up also. It sure sounds like there isn't any thing wrong with your motor after all the testing that you have had doneand they didn't find any thing.How many miles are on this motor? Good Luck

I would check the fuel pressure again, could be a faulty FPR, should be 32psi at idel and jump to 40psi at WOT.

Did you reset the computer after swaping to a new O2 sensor?

It might be worth to try new ECT sensor.

Thanks for the replies, fellas.

Tomorrow, we'll test the rear brakes releasing.

Tested the fuel pressure again today and it is about those specs.

Swapped the whole fuel rail, injectors, and FPR with a known good set yesterday also.

How in the heck do you reset the computer????????????? Do you mean just to disconnect the negative battery cable for awhile?? If so, yes, we always have been unhooking the neg. cable when we swap sensors.

Swapped the ECT with a known good one yesterday.

We'll keep plugging away.
Thanks again.

Try a compression test. My 95 tracer did the same thing just before it dropped a chunk of valve seat into the cahmber and beat the crap out of the piston. 1.9 engines have a hard metal valve seat and if it gets hot just right they will crack and spew. At leats thats the way it was explained to me.

Thanks ebritt,
Been there, done that, twice.
Allen

Try a compression test. My 95 tracer did the same thing just before it dropped a chunk of valve seat into the cahmber and beat the crap out of the piston. 1.9 engines have a hard metal valve seat and if it gets hot just right they will crack and spew. At leats thats the way it was explained to me.


Ignore my spelling!:screwy:

Do a quick verification of the MAF sensor. Look at the two tamper resistant ("hollow" torx) screws that hold the black plastic to the aluminum housing. Have they been unscrewed before (wear on edges from tool)? If not, then the MAF hasn't been FULLY checked. I pulled the MAF assembly, and it looked good, just a little stuff on the screen that was easily removed. The shocker came when I carefully removed the actual sensor assembly "black box". There'll be two sensors that resemble lightbulb filaments. Sure enough the one that was first in the path of air flow was black with build-up. I used the edge of a soft paper towel to carefully wipe the black soot off (I've heard a Q-tip works best; be gentle). I put it all back together and WA LA!!! No MIL, no sputtering, back to 37 MPG. The price? About one hour of my time (I also removed the "saxophone" from the airbox and cleaned the airbox out while I was in there). If you have the tools handy, you could be done in maybe 20 minutes; if you don't pull the whole MAF assembly and airbox like I did. Hope this helps.

FWIW: A code scan on my car prior to all this ID'ed a bad O2 sensor, and I replaced it. Got another MIL, bad O2 again; replaced the plugs and wires at this point. Wish I'd cleaned the MAF sensor first. :-)

Update 1-23-04

Retested EGR valve – seems to work fine

Tested the compression, here are the results (psi): 1) 177 2) 180 3) 177 4) 187

EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid tested out fine

We had already swapped the Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic (DPFE) from a known good one

Swapped the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and ignition module from a known good car

We already swapped the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor from a known good car and the good car still runs fine and the trouble car still does not run fine

Update 01-27-04

A couple more things that probably weren't in the previous posts.


1) A few days back, we hooked up a small propane bottle (the Bernzamatic type for soldering) to a 1/4" hose and ran it into a vacuum port (on which we plugged the other end, actually it was just a line going to the heater/ac system to move dampers), drove the car, and while we were trying to accelerate we opened the bottle all the way. It changed nothing. We could tell we were getting at least some propane through as the bottle and tip got frosty.

2) Last night while testing, we are now noticing that the exhaust manifold and catalytic converter are both red hot. Only takes a few minutes of slow or fast driving to get this way. This wasn't happening before, as we unplugged/reconnected the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor at night many times before this.

3) Checked the grounds last night and found one ground wire from the engine to body that was broken. Repaired and cleaned both fastening ends, but no change. Also cleaned and inspected any other grounds.

4) Car actually continues to run worse as the days and changes go by, but, here's the kicker: the good car that is receiving the questionable parts (my green wagon), continues to run perfect.

---We are even thinking about replacing the camshaft sensor, but it's quite a job to r/r on BOTH cars just for a test. Also, we and at least one other mechanic have checked and rechecked it."

dude cat and pipes red hot!!! that has to be a stopped up converter.....right????

swap the manifold and cat from the other car onto this one...

I red hot glowing manifold can also mean a lean condition, that causes high EGT to.

Yeah, I may have to just unhook the exhaust pipe again and see if that helps. Since all this testing has begun, the car probably hasn't had any more than 50-100 miles put on it. It has just been from shop to shop and since we got it back, we've just road tested it and nothing else.

I also believe it could be a lean condition, the question is: what the heck is causing this lean condition.

I've done a lot of reading on the net and elsewhere since this all began, and one guy says lean mixture, next guy says super rich mixture, so? The funny thing is that the gas mileage has almost dropped in half, so the lean mixture is hard to figure. Definitely has high EGT's. This has only been true in just the last few days, though. We ran it at night while testing quite a few times and opened the hood and NEVER saw even remotely red components.

Thanks guys,
Al

I did not hear how many miles are on this engine...?

About 145,000 miles.

Update 2-4-04

It is with great joy and thanksgiving that I write this message.

1995 Escort Wagon 1.9L ‘Poor Performance’ PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It turned out that the vibration damper (which on most newer model cars is a cogged gear that has a special cutout slot with one tooth missing for the crankshaft position sensor to determine the position of the crankshaft) had a worn keyway (possibly from the attaching bolt being loose). When my son, Brad, pulled it off to recheck the timing belt (overhead cam), he noticed that it looked funny. He had me look at it and I thought ‘‘wow, this it’’. The damper keyway was worn about 3 widths of the half-moon key and you could see that it had been moving back and forth.

Put the damper from my good Escort on and finished putting the motor together (we had also removed the intake manifold to check that also), and fired it up. You could tell as soon as we started it, that it was running much better. Took it for a 20 mile drive and works awesome. Thanks to all for the help.

I put a couple pics in the 'general automotive images' area.

Wonderfull.
Thats the first time I heard of a sheard key on a car crank pully.
What do you think caused the pully to shear the key?

WOW they would have never found that at a shop!! Good job guys.

The more I think of it the more it makes sence. When ignition timing is overly retarted, not only will you loose power, but the exshast valve will still be open while the fuel is still burning, makeing a hot EGT. And you said your manifold was glowing red, thats why, your ignition timeing was too retarted from the crank trigger being so far off.

Thanks guys,

Yes, actually the key wasn't sheared, just the pulley itself had the keyway worn so it was moving back and forth on the shaft.

Forgot to mention that the bolt holding the pulley on was quite loose and probably caused the whole problem.

Hope my next project isn't so ''interesting''.

Good luck all,
Allen

Great job!!! I have a 86 dodge truck with 318 and had a similar problem. the damper vibrating went through 3 timing chain sets in a 2 year period. Woodruff key was worn out letting it slap around and stretch chain out. Once again great job .......I'm so proud of you boys..lol

Thanks ebritt,
good to be done.

A couple things:
1. Check that the brakes aren't binding.
2. Since this is a manual tranny, check that your clutch is not slipping. This is a '95, so if your clutch has not been replaced yet, you just may be due for one.
3. Your comments say the timing belt was checked, but was the timing itsself checked (alignment)?

Thanks mightymoose22, but as per the above posts, the problem has been solved.
Thanks anyway,
Allen

hmm.. guess it helps to read all the way to the end before replying =o)

lawton kid, I just read this whole thing from top to bottom and it is as if I wrote the whole thing ! I have a '93 Merc Tracer,that you just discribed with your problem's,your test's, check's, and swap's.Right down to the "getting worse by the day".If it wasn't 12:30 in the A of M,I would go check it right now ! Neighbors would'nt like it. Boy,if that's it after all this time, you will deserve a big fat juicy kiss on the lip's !( only not from me). I will know sometime tomorrow.This is my first time in a forum,and it was kind of fun listening to everybody.Well, thank's everybody.

If I can be of any more help, feel free to post again. Would really like to hear if you had the same problem.

Kid

Loton kid, Your a god send! I fought with my 94 wagon for two weeks, Did it all. Read your post, went back to the shop and took off the crank pulley. Sure enough the back side of the key way was chuncked out.
Went to the junk yard got the pulley put it on and you would swear I put a new motor in it. It ran GREAT!

Thank you for your continouse post's.

Dennis

Glad that I could help out.

Newbie! Is the crank pulley a common problem on the Escorts? Also got a '95 wagon and had a idle stall problem a while ago. Took it to a dealership and they replaced the IAC and cleaned the injectors...fixed the problem. Wondering if I should have the pulley checked...

If you can do it right yourself, go for it, but why pay someone else to check it if nothings wrong?

True. Just want to be preemptive. Got the car from my Mom and it wasn't too well maintained, 'cept for oil. Had to change coolant, radiator, timing belt, serpentine, rear struts, plugs, wires. Need to change heater core and all springs. Been reading the threads here and just looking for other "issues" other Escorts owners have dealt with and want to get a heads up on what might break next. :p

I wouldn't worry about the crank pulley unless you have a bad case of lost power.
Kid

How many miles are on the clutch ?

Is there a studder between shifts ?

Check for Hydraulic hose leak under the battery. Mine had a small pin-hole that leaked out over time.

i had the same problem on my 1994 ford escort i had to replace the timing belt it broke with me doing 65 mph down hwy 99 i replaced the timing belt the car was running good for a week t didnt think to have the pully tightened back to specs well my car did not want to go the exhaust manifold was glowing red i was searching the internet for solutions my brother in law said clogged cat so i was going to take it to pep boys then i came on the net today started looking with all kinds of helpful info out there but none of which was right for me till i found this sight and lawton_kid post on 01:35 PMUpdate 2-4-04 i read his post went out took the car back apart saw that the harmonic balancer was wore where the key way would sit it ws wore about 1/4 of an inch i put a shim in it to see if it was the problem and sure enough as soon as i started my car i could tell the difference so thank you lawton_kid ill be getting a new harmonic balancer today remember if you cahnge your timing belt tight the bolt to specs or yopu could have the same problem i was at my wits end i almost sold it to pick and pull for $266.00 glad i found this thanks again nathan

Glad we could be of help.

That same car we had all the trouble with is still giving trouble free service, and sometimes getting around 40 MPG on the highway. It has around 230K miles on it.

Also, we used non-permanent thread locker on the bolt that holds on the harmonic balancer to make sure it never happens again.

The Kid

i also used thread locker on the bolt lol