What kind of body kits are there?

Body kits, as you well know, exist in various price levels. The variation in price usually has more to do with materials, manufacturing methods, and scale. A few years ago, body kits imported directly from Japan carried a certain cache that domestically produced kits could only emulate. You should understand that this is automotive fashion, and more exclusive body kits (much like a designer’s more exclusive dresses) simply cost more to get into the small volume manufacturing of some of these Japanese body kits afforded excellent quality with what was essentially a handlaid fiberglass construction process. Given the small manufacturing capacity, there simply weren’t that many of them on the road. In other words, there are people who cough up inordinate amounts of money to have, in effect, the dress that no else is wearing to the ball. In the process, they make their cars look like something out of an anime cartoon and remove the expensive kit two years later after the Kit Car people come to ask how they did that to a VW Type I.
Handlaying fiberglass involves laying sheets of cloth into a mold and soaking the sheets with a resin to produce the desired shape and that later hardens the sheets of fabric into a solid. As body kits grew in popularity and the visionaries in power saw that greater units could be sold to help reduce price (and increase profits), fiberglass started being sprayed from a chopper gun rather than being handlaid. This proved to be far quicker, but yielded a finished piece that was less flexible, less resistant to impact and more prone to fitment misalignments. Even larger volume production involves the use of molded polyurethane, whose greatest expense to produce rests in the expensive tooling required to mold such pieces. A urethane body component allows the greatest durability and flexibility and is actually the material used by original equipment manufactures (OEM) for bumper covers and factory sill or ground effects.
Urethane body components are the most resistant to driveway impacts and curb scrapes. Unlike fiberglass components, which are usually gel-coated and ready to paint, urethane body components require mixtures of adhesive agents to be mixed into paint for it to properly adhere. Usually paint jobs done on polyurethane do not adhere as well as on fiberglass, so they are more prone to cracking and chipping. Because of the ease with which fiberglass can be molded and manipulated by hand (and the scale on which it can be done), it is the creative canvas for body effects on a limited production basis. For the time it takes to design and manufacture one kit by hand, several kits can be produced by spraying the fiberglass into the mold. These larger volume manufacturers than pass on their savings on to consumers.

**update**

PROs and CONs:
Urethane can be quite flexible in large areas, but in smaller areas, it can rip, snap, puncture or even fold. In those scenarios, the urethane bumper is nearly impossible to repair and is completely ruined. Because of its flexible characteristics, the paint must be added with a flex agent to lessen the chances of the paint to crack, peel and spiderweb. Again, because of its flexible characteristics, it will often sag and droop over time. Heat will accelerate this process, and possibly make it worse over time. The only major advantage of having a urethane kit is when the fitment or mold was bad, it can always be flexed and forced into fitting properly.

Handlayed fiberglass is also very flexible, but not as much as urethane. In heavy impacts, it can crack, but it can always be repaired. Unlike urethane, fiberglass body kits can be repaired no matter how bad the damage is. Since handlayed fiberglass is stiffer than urethane, it doesn’t need a flex agent to be added to the paint. The paint will stick very well and has a much less chance of peeling, crack and spiderweb. Another advantage of a fiberglass kit is that it can also be modified if anyone wants it to be changed. A vent can be added, or removed… holes or mounts for foglights can be added… license plate mounts can also be added or removed. Urethane kits can be forced into a good fitment; however fiberglass kits can not be forced into fitment to the extent that urethane can. Fiberglass kits have a slightly less room for adjustment.

Some will say, “I have a urethane kit, and I can run into a wall and my bumper will still be in once piece!” Although this is true, the paint will be ruined and it will need to be repainted. Painting urethane correctly will cost a little more. A fiberglass kit in the same scenario would need to be repaired and painted. In the end, repairing the fiberglass kit came out spending slightly more. But as I mentioned above, if the urethane bumper received any permanent damage, it would be completely ruined. There is no such thing as permanent damage for a fiberglass kit.

Like U said, hand layed fiberglass body kits are potentially stronger than the Urethane body kits. But for anything other than looks; weight especially, the urethane kits are best. Finding a compromise between looks, durability, performance and price weather it be fiberglass or urathane should be what determins what kit you buy.

Like U said, hand layed fiberglass body kits are potentially stronger than the Urethane body kits. But for anything other than looks; weight especially, the urethane kits are best. Finding a compromise between looks, durability, performance and price weather it be fiberglass or urathane should be what determins what kit you buy.

Fiberglass kits are lighter than urethane kits. Also a dammaged fiberglass kit can be fixed where as a dammaged urethane kit cant... or more accurately.. it shouldnt.

I feel that fiberglass is better because there is more selection, and it can be modified in any way shape or form. One could even take to bumpers and fuse them together for a totally customized look (looks). Handlaid is very strong and easily fixed if there was ever a severe accident (durability), and you dont have to worry about them flexing or wobbling at high speeds.. and urethane kits are known to sag and droop over time (performance). Urethane kits are understood to fit better. Its not always true, but its thought to be because it flexible and can be forced to fit more so than a fiberglass kit. There is a downside to this. Since it has been flexed and twisted to fit... when painted on, the paint has a higher chance of cracking, pealing, and spiderwebbing. (fitting) It is more expensive to manufacture polyurethane bumpers so it will be expensive for the consumers.

Whoa!!! Reading this potentially saved me from making a mistake. From what I have heard poly-urethane kits were overall better than fiberglass, just because they are more durable and usually have better fitment. Do you think that it might be better to get a urethane front and go fiberglass for skirts and rear?

I cant think of any reason why poly urethane is any better than high quality fiberglass.

I just bought an octane r-34 kit for my civic a few weeks back that was polyurethane. It cost me $400 used from a friend. Was this a good buy or should i have just gone with handlaid fiberglass from the company that makes them?

I just bought an octane r-34 kit for my civic a few weeks back that was polyurethane. It cost me $400 used from a friend. Was this a good buy or should i have just gone with handlaid fiberglass from the company that makes them?


$400 for a full complete kit? Sounds like a good price. If its already painted to match your car, then it was a good deal. Whether its a good quality kit is another story. It depends on who manufactured it. If he spent his money right and paid to have the urethane kit painted correctly, you wont have to worry about the paint cracking and spiderwebbing. And if its a good quality, you wont have to worry about sagging or drooping.

Well it wasn't the full kit. It was just the front and rear bumper. I didn't want the side skirts because one was kind of cracked and i just dont like the R-34 sideskirts. But he had only had it for a few months before i bought it and my mom is going to pay for the paint job after i get skirts.

These are the skirts im thinking about getting. I will post pics of my car as soon as i get my digital camera back from my sister :newburn: .

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=7149

Ok. I didnt upload the image right i guess so just go ahead and click on my gallery if u want. Its the only pic in there.

Its a decent buy. $200 per bumber is a normal competative price I would find here in Cali... but it would most likey be low quality. I dont know how good the quality is on yours though. I guess the only way to find out is when its installed.

It's good quality

Originally Posted by tokes99
Whoa!!! Reading this potentially saved me from making a mistake. From what I have heard poly-urethane kits were overall better than fiberglass, just because they are more durable and usually have better fitment. Do you think that it might be better to get a urethane front and go fiberglass for skirts and rear?

I agree with Tokes99 because I heard poly-urethane kits were better also, but thanks to this forum, I know the truth :bananasmi

I can't decide between the two urethane kits I know of for my 93 Prelude or the Black Widow kit from the manufacturer for $700 shipped to my door. The Black Widow Kit is fiberglass and I live in the city... I'm thinking it might crack with everyday use. What should I do? Are there any other Urethane kits besides Big Mouth and Agressor?

Ground Designs 2000 has one of the best quality kits in the US market. I would choose their kits over any poly urethane kit any day. (if I liked their look).

If you live in the city, then whats the problem with a GD2000 BW kit? If you live in the woods, then I would understand your dillema.

urethane kits (dependeing on the manufacturer) have a tendency to deform in the wind but when you hit a speedbump you don't see it won't crack and look lke shit. Fiberglass on the other hand can (and on many of the cars here in washington) look like crap. I had a JDM Bomex kit on my 96 hatch and it was perfect. Light Strong and "flexible" . why i say "flexible" is because it had it's limits. it could take speed bumps and I got hit on my drivers side, it didn't crack, only the mounts broke.

I beleive Japanese kits call their kits FRP (Veilside, Bomex, JIC, etc...) Fiberglass reinforced plastic.

Many of the chep kits here look all wavy when they are installed too. Perfect fitmant is important because when they modify the bumper to fit your car if it doesn't pefectly fit, the lines won't line up and it may be bent and look crappy.

Keep in mind when you pay a small amount for bumpers, there is a reason. Dont go cheap, it will show.

what about the wings west kits and the kaminari kits. i know those are polyurethane and they are pretty damn pricey from the site itself even though you can find them cheaper ($800-$1300). how is the quality on those kits, looking to get one for my next car soon.

Ground Designs 2000 has one of the best quality kits in the US market. I would choose their kits over any poly urethane kit any day. (if I liked their look).
.

Sorry to tell, but that is total bullshit. GD2000 have shit quality! Happen to have an original GD2000 BW II rear bumper, just arrived last week, and it's crap. Material is very thin, when you push with 1 finger it allready cracks...

Sorry to tell, but that is total bullshit. GD2000 have shit quality! Happen to have an original GD2000 BW II rear bumper, just arrived last week, and it's crap. Material is very thin, when you push with 1 finger it allready cracks...

You'll notice this happens with almost all large business and corporations. They get really big... and once they're big, they lower quality and keep the high price because the quality got replaced by the big name. Sorry to hear that Ground Designs had to be one of those companies that got greedy. My knowledge of body kits is not up to date, so its pre BWII kits. When there were just BW kits, and even as far back as their Street Fighter kits.

what about the wings west kits and the kaminari kits. i know those are polyurethane and they are pretty damn pricey from the site itself even though you can find them cheaper ($800-$1300). how is the quality on those kits, looking to get one for my next car soon.

Kaminari, and especially Wings West are understood to be high quality kits. With this understanding, their kits would less prone to problems from normal, or low quality urethane bumpers. Most of the time... you get what you pay for.

urethane kits (dependeing on the manufacturer) have a tendency to deform in the wind but when you hit a speedbump you don't see it won't crack and look lke shit. Fiberglass on the other hand can (and on many of the cars here in washington) look like crap. I had a JDM Bomex kit on my 96 hatch and it was perfect. Light Strong and "flexible" . why i say "flexible" is because it had it's limits. it could take speed bumps and I got hit on my drivers side, it didn't crack, only the mounts broke.

I beleive Japanese kits call their kits FRP (Veilside, Bomex, JIC, etc...) Fiberglass reinforced plastic.

Many of the chep kits here look all wavy when they are installed too. Perfect fitmant is important because when they modify the bumper to fit your car if it doesn't pefectly fit, the lines won't line up and it may be bent and look crappy.

Keep in mind when you pay a small amount for bumpers, there is a reason. Dont go cheap, it will show.

There is a certain amount of bumpers that can come out of one mold before it is tossed. What alot of companies will do is get greedy and sqeeze out as many bumpers as possible before creating a complete monstrosity. The first ones will be near flawless (according to their measurments), and as it goes on the limit, they become worse... and thats where you will see the waves in cheap body kits. Usually they're cheap because they're sold as defective or lower quality to the shops... and the shops will then turn around and sell it to you for full price... and the shops make more money, and the manufacturer made more money on kits they shouldnt have made... the only person that got screwed is the consumer.

High end, well known manufacturers and shops with good reputations will know to sell only good quality kits... and thats why they're more expensive. Manufacturers will keep a low number of kits produced from one mold... and toss it before any defects would happen.

how is a fiberglass front bumper mounted

the same way any other bumper is.

I live in wisconsin...not many people around here have cars with the body kits and such. However I would like the stand out as an elite here. I can't find any places around here that sell body kits so my only option is buying offline. Where can I find quality body kits? I bought an import tuner magine and found a few places that looked good, but I'm a newbie here so they all look great. Please help my car.

See sig

awsome thanks, a lot!

Hey guys, just wondering if you have heard of Webersports, Japan. I've been seeing them everywhere in the car shows in Japan, especially in the last year or so. Do you know where I can get them?

a freind told me about sniper front bars and they sound pretty good

i have the wings west polyurithane kit for my 91 SI hatch. i think it sucks. i have this sag under each one of the headlights. not only that its difficult to line it up with the body lines.

im planing on getting AIT racing Z3 style fenders and my friends keep saying that it will look rediculous on my honda prelude. does anyone else have fenders on their honda, or do you know if they look good

I got a urathene or how ever you spell it, body kit on my crx. Ive noticed that they are infact more flexable than any other bodykit ive ever had on any car of mine. However, I must say that aftermarket parts never line up as well as stock. (or at least thats the case for me) There always seems to be some sort of the body kit needing customizing, or whatever, to fit right.

This is to Zwoodz. Personally, I think the Z3 fenders will look great. How ever, Ive been told that aftermarket NEVER lines up with anything perfectly. And so far, I would have to agree with that. For instance, my bodykit doesnt line up worth crap, but my stock bumpers do. Both my friends just got after market headlights, and on one of my buddys car, it lines up like CRAP, and the other friend of mine, his headlights line up pretty straight, but still not as good as his stock ones did. They both are good with cars, and know what they are doing, but just the shape of aftermarket doesnt seem to line up. I think it may be a hit or miss. If you want your car to look PERFECT, clean, etc. I would not suggest getting them, but if you dont mind your hood & doors lining up perfectly with your fenders, then I say go for it. This is just MY personal experience. Your may be different, and others may say they have had good luck with aftermarket. Good luck!

thats it

Fiberglass kits are lighter than urethane kit and a damaged fiberglass kit can easily fixed where damaged urethane kit can’t. Fiberglass kit is better because there is more selection and it can be modified in any way shape or form.

had a blitz body kit for my eclipse back in the day, when i wrecked, it was all gone. it was made out of fiberglass. even the fenders, when if sumone just layed there butt up against it would b damaged. a simple pebble would bust a huge hole in it. so ive never had any luck with it.

on the other hand, my friend has a polyurtherane one and he hit a possume or something in the front and not even a scratch. so im going to go with that.