Total power loss and stall

Having an issue with my 97 Olds Aurora. Recently the check engine light has been coming on sporadically for no real reason, and once you shut off and restart, it's gone. But recently, it came on and 10-15 minutes later, the car lost all power and just died. After you turn the ignition off, you can restart again, but now the light stays on and eventually the car just dies again. My mechanic says it's the mass airflow sensor, and he tried removing it and cleaning it, but it didn't help and the same thing is happening. I'm just wondering if this sounds like anything anyone else out there has experienced. I was just looking for some input before I ok the replacement of the mass airflow sensor with a new one, in case anyone knows of anything else we should look into besides the mass airflow sensor. Any input would be appreciated! Thanks!

It might just be me but your paying your mechanic good money to fix your car, give him the chance to do it. There should be codes stored in the computer where the SES light came on. If he scaned the computer and got the codes out and says its the MAF sensor let him switch it out. In the large picture the MAF is rather cheap compared to other things it could be.


BKVic

I wasn't trying to say I don't trust my mechanic (I do, he's a great guy) I was just wondering if anyone else has ever had these symptoms. I did have him replace the MAF with a new one, and first time I take the car out, same exact problem.
The car seems to "sputter" (not quite mis-fire, but similar) at low rpm after you start up and pull away. That causes the check engine light to come on, and shortly thereafter, the entire engine to lose power/shut down.
I am new here, and love reading this forum, a lot of great info. I am just looking for any ideas or other people who may have had similar problems. I have read a lot on hear about plugs/plug wires and am ready to simply have both replaced just to see if it helps.

Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

Does it take longer to start also? Did the mechanic clean into the throttle plates when he had the MAF off ? That gets pretty dirty there also.

If you have a steady C/E light, then you need to have that code read. If it comes up MAF sensor, then go for it. I just bought a code reader for $35. I can't believe your mechanic doesn't have one. Good luck.

Stephen

As I said in my previous post, I've already had my mechanic replace the MAF. And yes, of course he has the code reader, it came back MAF and that's why we had it replaced. But I'm still having the exact same problems I had before it was replaced, so I was just asking if anyone else has ever experienced the same thing. I won't be able to get back in to him until tomorrow, so he'll pull the codes again and I guess we'll go from there.

It is possible for bad(arcing)plug wires to breakdown to the point of drawing down the whole ignition system and stalling out. You need to have peace of mind about the plugs and wires before any further energy is expended on diagnostics.

sounds like a clogged fuel filter or air filter. check them

My mechanic thinks he has it tracked down. He's already replaced the MAF so we know it's not that, but the car is stilling giving him that code. But the problem he is having is that when the ignition is turned on, the car has a sensor that takes two readings, I think he said they were barometric pressure and air pressure. He says those should be the same at startup, and then as you drive the only one that should change (unless you are driving into a different altitudes) is the air pressure. Well, in my car the readings are different at startup, and when the car tries to adjust for the changes during driving, a lot of codes start tripping, with the MAF always first on the list.
Anyway, I am relaying this information as best I can remember from what he told me, so I may be a little off with my details, but that's the basics of what is happening. The car eventually just stalls and powers the engine off.
If anyone has ANY info that might help I would GREATLY appreciate it! I really want my car back! Thanks.

OK, if you're talking about the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor, then I can help you.
Some MAP sensors (like my 1985 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo) use the same sensor (inside the computer box) for barometric (outside) and manifold (inside) pressure. Some (like my 1987 Dodge Aries) use a dual sensor package on the fenderwell and read each sensor separately.
If you have the former, you will have a solenoid that switches between outside (baro) and inside (manifold) readings. If your readings are different on start, then your solenoid or the lines to it have a problem.
If you have the latter type, the sensor is bad - period. I suspect that is the case here. If so, just pay the piper and replace it.


I've been experiencing a similar problem with my 1990 Olds Delta 88 Royale 3.8L (which is why I'm here). I looked at the MAF sensor. I'm getting a code 34 (check MAF and its environment) and nothing more. Frankly, I'm disappointed that GM did not spend more time writing diagnostic code for this. My Dodge products are very specific about what is wrong and the computer is usually right. Additionally, it has what one book refers to as a "limp in mode" to keep the engine running with reduced power during such a crisis. Sort of a "totally open loop" setting - like on cold start.
I find the MAF is $290 at Autozone and am very dismayed by this. The junkyards are out of old ones too. So, what to do? Purchase a whole junked car to get the sensor or eat it and replace the thing on a guess?
I have also found that there is NO MAP SENSOR on the 1990 model. What!!!??? How the !@#$ does it know what's going on in the intake system?
Oh yes, I find that there is a whitish deposit on the hot coil (the reference coil is clean) and I'm wondering if some arachnid has taken up residence in my intake and this is part of his home...(extra crispy, of course). The car was parked for 2 years before I got it.
If your mechanic has some insight on this, I'd love to hear it...

Enjoy your week.
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My mechanic thinks he has it tracked down. He's already replaced the MAF so we know it's not that, but the car is stilling giving him that code. But the problem he is having is that when the ignition is turned on, the car has a sensor that takes two readings, I think he said they were barometric pressure and air pressure. He says those should be the same at startup, and then as you drive the only one that should change (unless you are driving into a different altitudes) is the air pressure. Well, in my car the readings are different at startup, and when the car tries to adjust for the changes during driving, a lot of codes start tripping, with the MAF always first on the list.
Anyway, I am relaying this information as best I can remember from what he told me, so I may be a little off with my details, but that's the basics of what is happening. The car eventually just stalls and powers the engine off.
If anyone has ANY info that might help I would GREATLY appreciate it! I really want my car back! Thanks.