timing belt
dehill
12-22-2003, 10:00 AM
It's time to change my timing belt and of course I'm not going to trust some mechanic to screw everything else up while he attempts to learn on my car. So, having never done this before, does anybody have any advice on what things to avoid or a general rundown of what steps you took? Thanks.
carguyinok
12-22-2003, 11:00 AM
I have done a few of the first gen DOHC 90-94. Not sure how much has changed for 2nd gen :screwy: One thing you should find out before you jump in. On the 1st gen there was a 2nd belt for the oil pump that should be replaced while your in that deep.
OK, first find someone willing to help you and things will go much faster.
Now remove the belts for the power steering ac and so on. Then find the tensioner pulley and remove that. Then remove the water pump pulley. Now pull the top cover for the cam gears. Here is where you want some help. You are going to want to find TDC Top Dead Center of the #1 piston ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE. It's not real hard there are two dots or lines one on each cam gear. Pull the plug wires or coil wire so the motor cant start. Have you helper bump the motor over with the key untill the marks on the cam gears are dead across from each other on the inside of the two gears. Now look on the crank pulley and make sure the timing mark is lined up there. With this done remove the crank pulley. Here again is where help comes in. Have your helper keep there foot hard on the brake with the car in gear. This way you dont turn the motor over by hand and mess up the TDC. OK, pull the plastic timing belt cover.
Now find the tensioner for the timing belt. It looks like a small kind of shock with two bolts holding it on the block. Remove the two bolts and your belt should be free. MAKE SURE you have a BIG vise or c-clamp that the tensioner will fit in. You need to compress the tensioner and line up the holes on the base & rod. Then put a paper clip or heavy wire in the hole so it dosnt pop out. Use care and compress it very slow or you can blow the seals in it. Replace the belt and install the tensioner and pull the pin.
Dont call it good here. Turn the motor over a few times then get the timing marks on the cam gears matched up again to insure the timing is on. If it's not pull the tensioner again line the marks up and try again untill its good. Now put it back togather.
OK, first find someone willing to help you and things will go much faster.
Now remove the belts for the power steering ac and so on. Then find the tensioner pulley and remove that. Then remove the water pump pulley. Now pull the top cover for the cam gears. Here is where you want some help. You are going to want to find TDC Top Dead Center of the #1 piston ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE. It's not real hard there are two dots or lines one on each cam gear. Pull the plug wires or coil wire so the motor cant start. Have you helper bump the motor over with the key untill the marks on the cam gears are dead across from each other on the inside of the two gears. Now look on the crank pulley and make sure the timing mark is lined up there. With this done remove the crank pulley. Here again is where help comes in. Have your helper keep there foot hard on the brake with the car in gear. This way you dont turn the motor over by hand and mess up the TDC. OK, pull the plastic timing belt cover.
Now find the tensioner for the timing belt. It looks like a small kind of shock with two bolts holding it on the block. Remove the two bolts and your belt should be free. MAKE SURE you have a BIG vise or c-clamp that the tensioner will fit in. You need to compress the tensioner and line up the holes on the base & rod. Then put a paper clip or heavy wire in the hole so it dosnt pop out. Use care and compress it very slow or you can blow the seals in it. Replace the belt and install the tensioner and pull the pin.
Dont call it good here. Turn the motor over a few times then get the timing marks on the cam gears matched up again to insure the timing is on. If it's not pull the tensioner again line the marks up and try again untill its good. Now put it back togather.
kjewer1
12-22-2003, 11:39 PM
The second belt is for the front balance shaft. The oil pump is driven off the main belt, by the sprocket on the lower right.
See www.vfaq.com, there is a very comprehensive writeup there. Read it 2-3 times to try to get your head around it. Then go through it step by step when the time comes. Dont cheat anywhere, and use common sense. :)
See www.vfaq.com, there is a very comprehensive writeup there. Read it 2-3 times to try to get your head around it. Then go through it step by step when the time comes. Dont cheat anywhere, and use common sense. :)
hodunwun
12-23-2003, 01:25 AM
It's time to change my timing belt and of course I'm not going to trust some mechanic to screw everything else up while he attempts to learn on my car. So, having never done this before, does anybody have any advice on what things to avoid or a general rundown of what steps you took? Thanks.
After you get the timing belt on with the timing marks in the proper place at TDC and the pump sprocket in the proper postion, rotate the engine slowly clockwise with a rachet on the front pully bolt. On the second revolution of the crank bring it to TDC and check the cam timing marks for proper position. Do this at least one more time to assure yourself that all is in time. If there is any doubt in you mind about this get some help. This is the one thing that most of us don't do to make sure all is ok. I have learned the hardway and bent valves. A very sad and frustrating event.
Doug
After you get the timing belt on with the timing marks in the proper place at TDC and the pump sprocket in the proper postion, rotate the engine slowly clockwise with a rachet on the front pully bolt. On the second revolution of the crank bring it to TDC and check the cam timing marks for proper position. Do this at least one more time to assure yourself that all is in time. If there is any doubt in you mind about this get some help. This is the one thing that most of us don't do to make sure all is ok. I have learned the hardway and bent valves. A very sad and frustrating event.
Doug
dehill
12-23-2003, 09:01 AM
thanks for all the advice guys. I really feel more comfortable about getting this thing started and done in a day now. One more thing, should I get the belt from a dealership or get a lifetime warranty Beck/Arnley belt from partsamerica.com?
carguyinok
12-23-2003, 09:30 AM
well from what 95 GSXracer said they still have a 2nd belt in there. So you should get bolth. I have just gone to autozone or pepboys and picked the higher end belts. This way I dont have to pay the dealer mark up. But still have a real person to deal with if it a wrong part :cya:
DSMDAD
12-24-2003, 01:36 AM
I agree, replace the balance belt at the same time. I've see the balance belt break and take out the timing belt. Bent all the intake valves. wasn't pretty. I've found from my experience the dealer belts are better made. If you buy it from Kragen or Auto Zone just replace it more frequently. Also if it idles rough when your done youre probably a tooth off.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
kjewer1
12-24-2003, 02:33 AM
After you get the timing belt on with the timing marks in the proper place at TDC and the pump sprocket in the proper postion, rotate the engine slowly clockwise with a rachet on the front pully bolt. On the second revolution of the crank bring it to TDC and check the cam timing marks for proper position. Do this at least one more time to assure yourself that all is in time. If there is any doubt in you mind about this get some help. This is the one thing that most of us don't do to make sure all is ok. I have learned the hardway and bent valves. A very sad and frustrating event.
Doug
You actually need to rotate it 6 times to get all the marks to line up because of hte way the oil pump/rear bashft sprocket is geared down. If you douche the balance shafts, this isnt an issue. be absolutely CERTAIN the rear abshaft is phased properly. There are two ways to do that, see the vfaq.
I would highyl recomend using mitsu belts. Even for accessory belts. The parts store belts never seem to last as long as hte mistu accessory belts. I have nevery tried an aftermarket t belt though, I dnt htink its worth the risk.
When doing the job, these are the parts you should be replacing. Off the top of head, but should be everything:
Tbelt
balance belt
tbelt hydraulic tensioner
tbelt tensioner pulley
balance shaft belt tensioner puller
tbelt idler pulley
water pump
accessory belts
The two most critical things to watch are that it is aligned properly (use a straight edge across all FOUR cam gear marks) and tensioned properly. Tension is set by the size of the gap between the tension arm and the body of the hydraulic tensioner. Should be between .15 and .18 inches. Use drill bits to see if its too big or too small. .15 is close to 5/32s, and .18 is close to 3/16s. Allen wrenches work too, but somthing round is better. ;) Read the vfaq thoroughly, I cant stress that enough. Good luck :)
Doug
You actually need to rotate it 6 times to get all the marks to line up because of hte way the oil pump/rear bashft sprocket is geared down. If you douche the balance shafts, this isnt an issue. be absolutely CERTAIN the rear abshaft is phased properly. There are two ways to do that, see the vfaq.
I would highyl recomend using mitsu belts. Even for accessory belts. The parts store belts never seem to last as long as hte mistu accessory belts. I have nevery tried an aftermarket t belt though, I dnt htink its worth the risk.
When doing the job, these are the parts you should be replacing. Off the top of head, but should be everything:
Tbelt
balance belt
tbelt hydraulic tensioner
tbelt tensioner pulley
balance shaft belt tensioner puller
tbelt idler pulley
water pump
accessory belts
The two most critical things to watch are that it is aligned properly (use a straight edge across all FOUR cam gear marks) and tensioned properly. Tension is set by the size of the gap between the tension arm and the body of the hydraulic tensioner. Should be between .15 and .18 inches. Use drill bits to see if its too big or too small. .15 is close to 5/32s, and .18 is close to 3/16s. Allen wrenches work too, but somthing round is better. ;) Read the vfaq thoroughly, I cant stress that enough. Good luck :)
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026