1995 S10 Blazer engine & stuff...

I have a buddy who's reinstalling the original W code engine (been rebuilt) back into his sister's '95 S10 Blazer 4x4. The ECM is under the hood. I was wondering if anyone can give insight on what all that'll need to be done before start up is attempted? Things like: proper distributor install, speed to run the engine at once it starts, etc. Does anyone have a vacuum diagram of the '95 4.3 available? Is the control system OBD I or OBD II? Also what does cpi mean?
Regards,
Joe

CPI stands for Central Port Injection.
This engine was promoted as OBD-II, and 75% of the time behaves like that, but it is NOT 100% OBD-II Compliant, many scanners do not read it's codes.

CPI stands for Central Port Injection.
This engine was promoted as OBD-II, and 75% of the time behaves like that, but it is NOT 100% OBD-II Compliant, many scanners do not read it's codes.


Only if the ECM is under the dash... If the ECM is in the hood, then it's ODBII compliant... The one under the dash is the majorly farked ODBI1.5 :)

I have a buddy who's reinstalling the original W code engine (been rebuilt) back into his sister's '95 S10 Blazer 4x4. The ECM is under the hood. I was wondering if anyone can give insight on what all that'll need to be done before start up is attempted? Things like: proper distributor install, speed to run the engine at once it starts, etc. Does anyone have a vacuum diagram of the '95 4.3 available? Is the control system OBD I or OBD II? Also what does cpi mean?
Regards,
Joe


The big pain in the ass is the distributor... With your buddy's it's a locked distributor... You need to make sure it's TDC with the mark on the balancer being the one to the left of the DOT. If it doesn't immediately start up, then you are 180 out...When we did mine, it took 4 tries with it properly lined up to drop in the distriubutor. If you use the line up method on the rotor to wire one (which is actually 8 o'clock) make sure you're just slightly ahead of it... Again, we had to drop it in 4 times...:P After that no timing is necessary. If his engine is already out, it would also be a good time to replace the freeze plugs...Use brass.... That way you don't have to worry about it again. Also be sure to clean the egr ports and the egr itself. Use a small screw driver and spray with air (be sure you cover the valley with a rag or something if you're lower intake is off. Do NOT use gaskets for the exaust manifolds (unless you are putting on headers). They are not designed to be used with gaskets...Metal to Metal only.

New freeze plugs (rest of the truck can be seen at www.pghconsulting.net/teal


http://www.pghconsulting.net/blazer/newfreeze.jpg

The big pain in the ass is the distributor... With your buddy's it's a locked distributor... You need to make sure it's TDC with the mark on the balancer being the one to the left of the DOT. If it doesn't immediately start up, then you are 180 out...When we did mine, it took 4 tries with it properly lined up to drop in the distriubutor. If you use the line up method on the rotor to wire one (which is actually 8 o'clock) make sure you're just slightly ahead of it... Again, we had to drop it in 4 times...:P After that no timing is necessary. If his engine is already out, it would also be a good time to replace the freeze plugs...Use brass.... That way you don't have to worry about it again. Also be sure to clean the egr ports and the egr itself. Use a small screw driver and spray with air (be sure you cover the valley with a rag or something if you're lower intake is off. Do NOT use gaskets for the exaust manifolds (unless you are putting on headers). They are not designed to be used with gaskets...Metal to Metal only.

New freeze plugs (rest of the truck can be seen at www.pghconsulting.net/teal



Whew, that was hard to read. :smile: I appreciate the info. I think I follow you correctly, so to line up the crank to the distributor correctly, you set some kind of marker on the crank pulley in line to some kind of dot on the (timing cover?) Then look at the position of the distributor rotor to be sure it's at the 8 o'clock position which should be slightly ahead of the #1 spark plug wire plug-in on the distributor cap? Of course he should be sure that the # one cylinder is on the compression stroke, right? If you want you can clarify anything. Anyhoo, I'll relay this to my buddy and see what comes up. Right now it's too cold/snowy/icy to do anything with it. :banghead:

No, you've got it, but you line up the mark with the timing cover before trying to put the distributor in, then you line up the distributor. And yes, it should be on the compression stroke, but if it's not, it simply won't start and you'll know that you're 180 out.

Again, thanks a ton man!!!!!! :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: :smile: I'll try to update if he tries anything with it.

:) No prob... Keep us abreast of the situation