Help me decide...

I recently bought a 01 tegLS. I have not done anything to it yet because I got fired from my job.:banghead: The good news is that my new job has a sign on bonus of $5000! Sweet!:grinno:

I know you all have probably debated this a hundred times. Before you tell me to research, I have. I'm thinking about doing an engine swap.

Here is what I came up with:

1. b16a (2nd gen.)-rest of money on upgrades
2. b18c1-left over on upgrades again

I am open to other engine suggestions. I have thought about a b18c5 but that would take most of my cash just to purchase it. I don't know if it is really worth the extra.

I could also go crazy and H22 it, again a costly process. Probably more worth it than the b18c5 though.

Tell me what you think.

Anyone can reply of course, but if you don't have technical knowledge or experience with this don't bullshit! I hope that doesn't offend anyone here @ AF but I need experienced opinions.

Thanx, later all...

you have got an extremely strong motor. i bought the LS because i planned on putting a turbo on it. put a turbo on, and maybe build it later. you will not be sorry.

Especially considering its only 2 or 3 years old. Keep the LS and throw on a nice little snail shell. :naughty:

w/$5000 the b16 would be the fastest. then the c1 then the c5
but if i were you i would just build up your internals on your ls and turbo it. or you might want to consider ls/v-tec

since its an 01, im thinking that it has pretty low mileage and you probably spent a good amount on just buying the car, B18B is more turbo friendly than its higher compression VTEC n/a brothers.. ill trade you my 95-97 gsr if tempted

yeah i agree with every one on keeping the LS and turbo that. that will be nice. you can get a nice turbo kit for around 3k. so you'll have cash left over. i'd bulid up the internals also so it can handle more psi. i belive stock internals on a ls can handle 12 psi boost i belive....

So far the answer seems to be keep the b18b and turbo it.

What about a frankenstein? Is there anyone in here who actually has an ls/vtec? How long/miles? Any oil problems? Did it really make that much difference?

I've heard that ls/vtec turbos kick ass! I would do that if I knew my daily driver would stay reliable.

You've heard right. They do kick ass. IF, theyre done RIGHT. Thats whats gonna cost, is making sure its all done right. Just a turbo would probably be more reliable though. It seems like you can afford it, BTW, what do you do if you dont mind me asking?

I am in sales and pretty good at it. The only problem is that I actually hate it. I am going to be opening my own business, sports related pretty soon (about 5 months). For now I guess I'll keep selling people shit they don't really need, that's why I hate it.

You either have something people need, and rip them off because they need it. Or you have something not too expensive but they really don't need it, and you convince them they do.

Money isn't everything, and usually there are evils that come along with it. At least I can use some of that cash for something fun, like my teg.

I've got the same dilema as Slverbowl and I am thinking about the turbo LS/Vtec as well just turboing the b18. So anyone who has (or had) an LS/Vtec and wants to share your expirence with it wether its turboded or not would be a big help. Spectre you said as long as it is done right... know any of the major things that get overlooked or a site that has a god walkthrough of one?

Thanks,
DoubleTap

Good question doubletap!

just go for turbo

just go for turbo

As much as slvrbowl and I appreciate your opinion... could you give us a little more to go off of. Your reasoning for example and how you like yours (you do have one right...). Thanks again

DoubleTap

There are some more experienced and knowledgable members on here that could go into detail, but if you take it to a reputable shop, you should be fine. The LSs are good to turbo because of their lower compression and ability to handle roughly 12psi on stock internals.

w/$5000 the b16 would be the fastest. then the c1 then the c5
but if i were you i would just build up your internals on your ls and turbo it. or you might want to consider ls/v-tec


you need to do more reading/research. everyone please disregard this person's post.

you need to do more reading/research. everyone please disregard this person's post.

Yep the B16 would be the slowest :screwy:.

I've got the same dilema as Slverbowl and I am thinking about the turbo LS/Vtec as well just turboing the b18. So anyone who has (or had) an LS/Vtec and wants to share your expirence with it wether its turboded or not would be a big help. Spectre you said as long as it is done right... know any of the major things that get overlooked or a site that has a god walkthrough of one?



The main thing that causes problems is that people use the wrong size drill bit to drill the dowel pin hole. It requires a 14mm drill bit but most people use a 9/16" b/c it is close but it allows the head to move around and not get properly aligned. Also people over look the rotating assembly on the LS you need to install a girddle on the main caps to keep everything together. Also people doing a shitty job on the oil line tap etc the list can get longer. Here is a website for you to check out. www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b20vtec/b20vtec.php (http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b20vtec/b20vtec.php)

Yep the B16 would be the slowest :screwy:.




The main thing that causes problems is that people use the wrong size drill bit to drill the dowel pin hole. It requires a 14mm drill bit but most people use a 9/16" b/c it is close but it allows the head to move around and not get properly aligned. Also people over look the rotating assembly on the LS you need to install a girddle on the main caps to keep everything together. Also people doing a shitty job on the oil line tap etc the list can get longer. Here is a website for you to check out. www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b20vtec/b20vtec.php (http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b20vtec/b20vtec.php)


See, there it is. And from one of the more experienced and knowledgable members just like I said.:smokin:

Whtteg - I saw the post about the dowel adaptors for an LS/VTEC by golden eagle and I believe they also make a conversions kit for the oil supply as well, do you have any expirence with these or know anyone how does. These seem to be a good fix to the two biggest problems you mentioned. Thanks for your help.

DoubleTap

See, there it is. And from one of the more experienced and knowledgable members just like I said.:smokin:
you guys are dumb. w/5000dollers you could by a b16 for 2200 and with the extra money you could make it alot faster than a c5. cuz w/5000 you could by a c5 and mabie get an intake for it.

you guys are dumb. w/5000dollers you could by a b16 for 2200 and with the extra money you could make it alot faster than a c5. cuz w/5000 you could by a c5 and mabie get an intake for it.

B18C5 motors are expensive but the B16 is a horible suggestion. The lack of displacement alone is enough to tell you it will be the slowest. You could stroke it but then you would basically have a B18C1. Yea the B16 head flows better but for the extra money you spend stroking the B16 you can get a P&P job on the B18C1 or the B18B1 for that matter. The B16 is a very weak motor, it lacks torque and you have to do alot more to it to make it as fast as the other motors listed. Also $5000 in a B18B1 turbo project and then $5000 in a B16 project, the B18B1 would rape, I mean RAPE the B16 if they are in the same car. Hands down the way to go is the B18B1 or the B18C1.

you guys are dumb. w/5000dollers you could by a b16 for 2200 and with the extra money you could make it alot faster than a c5. cuz w/5000 you could by a c5 and mabie get an intake for it.

Why did you reply to my quote for? Anyways, its always best to use the engine with the most displacement, and seeing as how its an integra which already has a 1.8 he might as well keep his bottom end since its going to have a lot less miles and isnt a whole lot slower than a b16, and maybe have a b16a or b18c head(still a debate on which flows the best) put on. Plus in CA, you get in trouble for using an older engine on street cars (and wheres he going to get a 2001 B16A from, and wouldnt it cost a bit more for the OBD2 version unless he spent like $4-500 for a conversion) but I dont know about Arizona. Anyways like everyone has said, he shouldnt even swap, thatd be a waste.

Sorry, I didnt mean to say what you said, when I started no one had replied. I must be slow:smile:

Boost It Or Buy A B18c5 ,jdm Type R

All the info has been great. That link to the vtec swap was very informative.

I think I'm going to go for the frankenstein. Maybe even upgrade some internals while I'm at it. That is where I'm gonna start. I'm sure that will keep me happy for a little while. At least until I get the itch to turbo it.:evillol:

Someone suggest something besides ebay for getting the parts.

Thanks

thepartstraderonline is decent. People can be stingy though and you have to be even more careful in dealing with these people because its a lot easier to get ripped off. And if you get find a hot deal, chances are.. it is hot.

with 5 grand you would be able to build up a real nice N/A setup ofcourse turbo will be the fastest though.

Try to find a local board inyour area for imports and post a want to buy list there. Like here we have vtecatlanta.com and people buy and sell stuff there all the time and you can just meet the person and pick it up. It is the safest way, but www.thepartstrader.com (http://www.thepartstrader.com) is a goodplace but liek spectre said be careful people can rip you off. Use paypal and hope for the best, don't ever send a money order or a check.

you should boost it cuz those motors LOVE BOOST, on stock internals they can handle 13 lbs of boost, and with hondata and a very unrestrictive exhaust you shood b runnin 12's if not better.

you should boost it cuz those motors LOVE BOOST, on stock internals they can handle 13 lbs of boost, and with hondata and a very unrestrictive exhaust you shood b runnin 12's if not better.

ny_ls - Just curious, where did you hear 13psi? The most I have ever heard being recomended is 12psi at the maximum and more like 10psi for daily driving. On a B18B that is.

The folks who know - So the LS/Vtec sounds like a good way to go for me as well. Well i have a few questions about the specs on a properly assembled LS/Vtec with stock internals. Does it get the GSR redline at like 7800 ar the LS redline at about 6800? Do you know how well they work with a turbo? I assume they can still take the 10-12psi as the LS becuase that is more of a factor of how strong the block is and not the head (right?). Anyody know what a "stock" LS/Vtec puses at the wheels (or at the flywheel). Thats all I can think of for right now but I will probably think of some more. I'll try to read the forums before I make and extraneous posts though.

DoubleTap

i would go ls turbo screw the vtec
if you look at the pro. turbo drag honda's they arnt vtec for a reason

On the other hand I am not looking to make an all out drag motor either...

DoubleTap

i would go ls turbo screw the vtec
if you look at the pro. turbo drag honda's they arnt vtec for a reason

I thought that was because they didnt need two cam profiles. They were in the higher RPM range the whole time and just used the larger profiles, unlike me, who needs to be able to take it to taco bell for some food when I feel like it.

Thats what I heard as well. a drag motor can use the very aggressive cam profiles all day long becuase it isn't street driven but the same cams on the street would be unusable because of the horrible idle the cams would have.

DoubleTap

Hey slvrbowl, just found a great thread from earlier this year in the Let's Get Technical Forum. I bumped it up to the top. It's called Turbon on an LS. I read the whole thing and I would suggest skipping pages 4-11 because some stupid kid wouldn't shut the hell up. But in the beginning and the end there is tons of good stuff relating to LS/Vtec turbo vs. LS Turbo

DoubleTap

I thought that was because they didnt need two cam profiles. They were in the higher RPM range the whole time and just used the larger profiles, unlike me, who needs to be able to take it to taco bell for some food when I feel like it.

That is correct they have cams that do not have the primary lobes on them, this is to free up some rotating weight.

Holy shit!

I read through that whole fucking thread on the "turbo LS"

Aside from the fact that the kid wasted everybody's time, especially the person who needed the info, I found it humorous.

Only b/c it is so far after the fact. It would have been frustrating to have been a part of it.

There was some good info in there. Now I am totally confused. lsvtec only lasting like 6 months. fuck that ---

Maybe we should just turbo it as is.

Anyways, now my that my head is spinning. I guess I will just keep researching. Anyone in Arizona know who, or what shop, has the best rep. and history with Hondas?

BTW when does that Newbie status change to regular.

It's like a billboard ...

NEWBIE=BIG FUCKIN DUMBASS

At least that's how I feel about it.

Sorry about the caps, although my wife calls me a dumbass all the time.

Maybe I am--lol

Newbie ends at 50 posts (I'm finally there!). Yeah that thread makes me a little suspicious of the ls/vtec especially eith a turbo on it...

Still looking for opinions or better yet first hand expirence though because I realy like the idea of the high end potential with vtec. Just want to keep the durability as high as possible. Also I am definetly not looking to make a 400whp street car. 300 would be nice but a more realistic 250 at the wheels or so is my short term goal. But I want to get it in the most efficient form possible, ie. a decently smooth and driveable power curve etc. With that much hp (250whp) is there going to be any need to swap out the drive shafts, or strengthen the transmission or anything like that. I already have plans for a full suspension setup with some true coilovers, itr rear sway, lower tie arms and strut braces as well as an upgraded brake system. What else besides the actual motor would need to be upgraded/strenghtend to handle the aditional load. Like oil/water pumps radiator etc.
Also does anyone know of a dry sump oil system that can be implemented on a b18b or would it require the oil squirters that are on the b18c?

Thanks,
DoubleTap

[QUOTE=Doubletap]ny_ls - Just curious, where did you hear 13psi? The most I have ever heard being recomended is 12psi at the maximum and more like 10psi for daily driving. On a B18B that is.


well smart guy, three of my friends up here have b18b's in their hatches, all three of which have peiced together their own turbo kit, all of which can drive their cars daily runnin 11 lbs of boost,and all of which can run at the track all day long on 13lbs of boost with no internal damage. of course theres guna b normal wear and tear from a turbo, but none of them have had any major incidents with their motors.


O yea by the way, the ls vtec is a good idea as well, but personally i wood rather boost the b18b. maybe make it a frankenstein later :nono:

Don't get your panties in a twist, just trying to see where your info came from beacuse id it is possible to run 13psi I want to do it. But I want to know where my info is coming from. Thanks for clearing that up

DoubleTap

doubletap, my bad,13psi with hondata, or some kind of fuel management

doubletap,with upgraded injecotrs, fuel managment, 3inche exaust, tuned u can get 13, or possible 15

doubletap,with upgraded injecotrs, fuel managment, 3inche exaust, tuned u can get 13, or possible 15

Ok you have rambled on long enough with your false information. The LS is limited to 12 psi because of the strength of the rods, and cylinder walls, 15psi will bend the rods and possibly crack the cylinder walls. If you feel that you can run 15 psi on stock internals then go for it, but I can tell you that it might work once or twice but not very long. My :2cents:

ok then how come i know 3 people that are running 13 psi on stock internals,15 psi was my bad, i meant 14, AND YES IT CAN BE DONE

ok then how come i know 3 people that are running 13 psi on stock internals,15 psi was my bad, i meant 14, AND YES IT CAN BE DONE

oh no he dint. :sounding like crazy black woman:





j/k

BTW when does that Newbie status change to regular.

It's like a billboard ...

NEWBIE=BIG FUCKIN DUMBASS

At least that's how I feel about it.

Sorry about the caps, although my wife calls me a dumbass all the time.

Maybe I am--lol
Dont worry as long as you dont sound like a dumbass, unlike some guys that are even out of "newbie status". Quality of posts over quantity of posts IMO.(to a certain degree obviously, but most people with high quantities do have good posts, Im the exception:rolleyes:)

im not a crazy black women, but that was a funny comment, thanx fer that. and im sorry, i had my info wrong, u cant run at 15psi, u can push 14 max, maybe once or twice. but u can run at 13psi with no problems. also this isnt my name on here, this is my freinds, how do i register????????????

You gotta be signed out, so sign out or get on a different computer and move the mouse onto the forums tab, there is a free registration tab that should appear and click on that. Click on that and it should take you there. Goodluck:bigthumb:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/index.php?referrerid=65092
heh heh...