GTP Power Loss =(

This morning my GTP doesn't start. The car started with the gas pedal press, and just dies :cya: . And i try again and the cars dies again :uhoh: . I put the shift on "D" and press the gas pedal and the cars has no power... And dies again :banghead: ... What I sopouse to do? Help, Tomorrow i gona diagnostic the pcm. But some suggestions or comments are welcome =).

Well, could be that the MAF has failed or the IAT.
Either if those are required to control fuel/air mixture and idle. If that is the case you will have to tow it to the garage.

what kind of voltage r u seeing from the battery and alt??

And I doubt it is the IAT sensor, you could leave that unplugged and see no problems, maybe an SES light but not always.

Post Update:

At this night, i try to move the car to my house... and it was hard to start, but i've wait until the engine warms up and the car works fine... Only with the motor is cold has problems. Why?, why cold i have problems and when the motor is warm up (hot) i dont have problems... Sensor?, gasket?, pcm?, car?, motor?, :screwy:

J.R.

what kind of voltage r u seeing from the battery and alt??

And I doubt it is the IAT sensor, you could leave that unplugged and see no problems, maybe an SES light but not always.

Rpin you are correct, I did not meant IAT I meant IAC(Idle Air Control).
That is used to control engine idel speed and if the computer
receives invalid O2 sensor and MAF sensor reading this IAC
will not allow the car to idle correctly.
Now that I think about it. COuld be the O2 sensor or the MAF sensor
failing. And now that I think further the O2 sensor is on OpenLoop until it reaches it's working temp.
Might be the O2 sensor buggin you and that would explain why the car heats up works acceptably

Update:

This morning i found out that the Boost Meter is too sensible, when i press a little the gas pedal the meter lights come on quickly (or somethimes the boost meter is permanently on). But when the car is hot and works fine the boost meter works normally.

Respectfully, I do not see the relationship here.
The boost engages when the engine revs faster, at idle or when you start it what the SC do put a little more resistant to the starter or idling engine.
If I understand correctly your problem is engin starting and extra rough idling when the car is cold?

Yes, my problem is engine starting and extra rough idling when the car is cold... today my car is on pcm diagnostic. Tomorrow i will send you the codes of that. I live in Baja Mexico, border with California (Calexico, CA.). Im 2 hours from San Diego, CA. And here in Mexico is to hard find a good autoshop.

If you do not have the codes yet, could be the map and/or the O2 sensor(s)

MAF I meant

Yes, my car was scanned, and the results are the MAF Sensor is bad :crying: . But, is too expensive, i can put an used MAF???... The 3.8 not SC is the same MAF Sensor??... Okey, thanx for comments. I hope more answers about Engines with the same MAF Sensor... i will find it used or new. :screwy:

The gtp and gt MAF are not the same. But the fact that it starts when you hold the gas pedal down sounds like your injectors might be dripping and flooding the engine. What is the mileage on the car and when was the last time you had the injectors professionally cleaned?

Joe, my car has 92k miles, and in the GM Parts Direct of El Centro California tells me are the same MAF Sensor for both engines (3.8 Series II). I dont remember when was the last time i've cleaned the injectors but i gonna procced with them. And the MAF Sensor was displayed by the Diagnostic the Check Engine Soon Light are On because MAF is bad (broken).

MAF should not be that expensive. And I would not installed used sensors, they might get debri or humidity and affect them

Here, where i live the MAF Sensor price is about $320 dlls. Is too expensive compared with GM Parts Direct.com ($180). Well, im gonna buy it.

Well, I put the NEW MAF SENSOR on my car and SES Light come off. A lot of problems are gone. But!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, my car is sometimes hard to start again. I think and the mechanic shop thinks are the fuel injectors maybe are leaking. I see this night the RPM Gauge and they moves a minimum but moves. Maybe Spark Plugs (are new BOSCH Platinium), Wires are new too, fuel filter (new too), another suggestions. I have the TPS and IAC sensors new to install, But the mechanic tells me they are not bad. Help me please.

Get rid of those Bosch plugs and get yourself some Autolite's. You dont need platinium plugs.

I think the Autolite 605 are the correct stock replacement. Autolite 104's are a few heat ranges colder then stock, but have a good following on clubgp. Plus they're only $1 a plug.

Also, use plenty of Dialectric grease on the plugs/wires/coils

Tim

Okey im going to change the spark plugs of my GTP. But, if the fuel injectors make me this problem?. The fuel pump was checked and its okey. Help... Thanx

Ripn12s I tought that the OEM sparks are platinum tips. Why you would want to use a colder spark on a hot engine like the 3800 GenII SC.
Enlighten me please

With smaller pulleys and increased boost and/or cylinder pressure KR becomes more and more of an issue. We have found that going with a colder plug helps to reduce knock retard giving more power. --- ZZP

We offer these spark plugs in three different heat ranges depending on your level of modifications. Our recommendations are as follows:
Use the Autolite® 605 spark plugs (one heat range colder than stock) if you have a 3800 Series II or III engine engine with up to 6 pounds of boost. At this level, we recommend reducing the spark plug gap to .055", or .035" with nitrous oxide.
Use Autolite® 104 spark plugs (two heat ranges colder than stock) if you have a 3800 Series II or III engine with 6 to 12 pounds of boost. At this level, we recommend reducing the spark plug gap to .050", or .035" with nitrous oxide.
Use Autolite® 103 spark plugs (three heat ranges colder than stock) if you have a 3800 Series II or III engine with 12 to 18 pounds of boost. At this level, we recommend reducing the spark plug gap to .045", or .035" with nitrous oxide. --- INTENSE


Using a plug that is too hot will cause detonation of the fuel to early. Also, Ive never heard that much good hype about Platinun. I've also seen the OEM plugs develope cracks on the porcelain. They also cost way too much money. Why spend $30 on a set of plats when I can spend $6 on some copper Autolites.

Tim

OK, got it.
This makes a lot of sense to me when pushing the car like on the track. But what about day to day driving? I have push mine. But for less t han 10 to 15 mins then I let go. And so far with OEM no problems. Your suggestions worlk for day to day driving as well?

If your car is modded then colder range plugs should be in your mod list also. Ive driven on the same AL 104's for about a year and have no problems. I'll be going down to the 103's next season.

Tim