Daytonas

Maybe someone should start a whole new classification for all of the Daytona owners. I see quite a few Daytona questions being posted.

I have another Daytona question. I have a 89 Daytona ES with the 2.5L engine and I believe I have sheared the pins off on the lower pully for the timing belt. If this is the case and I have to replace it can someone please tell me what the timing is for this engine?

Thanks,
Tim
NSDQ!

hello im new and i own an 89 dodge daytona es with the 2.5 t1 turbo motor. i have found many upgrades for it at performanceparts.com. this place is way better than allpar. anyway i cant help ya tim on that one but im glad to see other 2.5 owners. there are too many people lucky enough to own the intercooled 2.2, dont you think? anyone interested in just chatting about the turbo dodge cars e-mail me and ill instant message u. [email protected].

hello im new and i own an 89 dodge daytona es with the 2.5 t1 turbo motor. i have found many upgrades for it at performanceparts.com. this place is way better than allpar. anyway i cant help ya tim on that one but im glad to see other 2.5 owners. there are too many people lucky enough to own the intercooled 2.2, dont you think? anyone interested in just chatting about the turbo dodge cars e-mail me and ill instant message u. [email protected].

LOL, most of the cars released in 1989 and up were 2.5L engines. You were lucky to have a Turbo II.

yeah. ididnt know that but all my friends own the shelby or iroc and the 2.2 intercooled with the garret is untouchable in my opinion. the 2.5 is supposed to have better low-end but they get me off the line so bad. and the power around 4,000-rev-limit(5200) is crappy. the 2.2 is good all the way through. i have considered switching the turbo with the garret on the shelby and adding an intercooler off the shelby. is it gonna beat a 2.2 or is it a waste of time? i nedd top end power and ive found a hydrolic cam from comp cam that will give good power up to 6000 instead of 5200, will this motor allow such high revs if messed with the rev-limiter? just a question.

yeah. ididnt know that but all my friends own the shelby or iroc and the 2.2 intercooled with the garret is untouchable in my opinion. the 2.5 is supposed to have better low-end but they get me off the line so bad. and the power around 4,000-rev-limit(5200) is crappy. the 2.2 is good all the way through. i have considered switching the turbo with the garret on the shelby and adding an intercooler off the shelby. is it gonna beat a 2.2 or is it a waste of time? i nedd top end power and ive found a hydrolic cam from comp cam that will give good power up to 6000 instead of 5200, will this motor allow such high revs if messed with the rev-limiter? just a question.

And I would agree. The 2.2L is by far the better engine, IMO.

When Chrysler made the 2.5L they used the same block as their 2.2L they just used a different head with a longer stroke. Which only gave you and extra 10 ft/lbs of torque, but you had about 25 less horsepower and worse top end. I would say if you want to be serious about modding the car, you would be best off to find a doner car and swap all the underhood stuff. Your engine has much weaker pistons and over-all the rest of the internals are weaker as well as you transaxle. I take it that you have the manual which is the A-520? If so you would be far better off with an A-555 or A-568. The power of the Turbo II will tear the gearbox up pretty easy if you drive up the boost. So to find a doner car will take less time, money, and you willhave less problems overall.

My advice, go with the 2.2L Turbo II swap.

timc554, ignition timing for 89 daytona 2.5L non turbo is 12 degrees BTDC, if you want some more power out of it at the expense of fuel you can adjust it to 15 BTDC, get a little more boost out of it.

if your talking about valve timing, i dunno.. ill have to look it up

I have a garrett turbo for sale with only 80k miles on it if anyone is interested. It comes with everything to drop right in. lines, wastegate, hot side of turbo, intake side. no shaft play and burns no oil. E-mail me if interested. [email protected]

Yeah i have some friends with the turbo 2 and i could get a hook up but me and my friends had an idea about putting in the chrysler conquest tsi motor, tranny, gearbox and rear end. that way i would have serious power, performance motor, and a rear-wheel drive daytona. i found a guy in tennessee that has about seven of them and i can get a conquest for about 1,000 dollars but the only thing good in it is the parts i need so if anyone wants a better one in better shape they will have to pay more. id say ill start the project in march and will finish around the end of april or beginning of may. ill show a movie of step by step things i done for all the chrsler/daytona turbo fans. ill be selling the motor and tranny and anything else i dont need like some interior around the same time so if anyone wants any let me know aorund march. ill be on this site and keepin in touch with you guys/chicks too.

You would have to be nuts to want the Conquest TSi engine!!! Rear wheel drive is nice, but the engine is horrible. They aren't reliable, they have very lower power from a large displacement, and the gearbox is crap compared to the good Chrysler ones. The 2.2L and 2.5L are much more robust engines and much more reliable. You will be able to get much more power from a common block than the TSi engine. Also the A-555 and A-568 five speed manual forged gearboxes from Chrysler were designed by Chrysler and built buy Getrag of Germany. They are renowned for their racing transmissions and a new one costs about $5,000 today. There are ways to convert a common block to rear wheel drive and you would be much better off doing that. The Conquest TSi has a horrible drive-train. There is a reason he has seven of them and they are all junk.

ok. i want some power but i have to have a turbo, i need low end, top end, mid rangepower, i also want rear wheel drive. help me pick the best starter motor, and descibe or give me a link of how to do this. any help on the best way to atart a rear-wheel drive turbo shhrysler let me know i want the best and some of the best.

I take it that you have the manual which is the A-520? If so you would be far better off with an A-555 or A-568. The power of the Turbo II will tear the gearbox up pretty easy if you drive up the boost. So to find a doner car will take less time, money, and you willhave less problems overall.

My advice, go with the 2.2L Turbo II swap.

Well, the A520 is still pretty good. WAY better than the 525. The 520 can handle 300 Ft/lbs with the Chrome moly transplate. Thats pretty good power for any street car with a 4 cylinder.

OK, my opinion. The 2.5 T1 should have much more off the line than any T2. First, of course, the displacement. Also, it has the mitsu turbo which spools very fast. So, I gues your friends are just better drivers, no offense.
So, for now if I were you I would stick with the 2.5. Your top ends sucks because you have restrictions in your intake and exhaust, mostly exhaust. So, first atleast get a KN air filter. Then, go to www.fwdperformance.com and get a 2.5'' exhaust. Depending on where you live, you might need to get the cat. But if you don't, I suggest you just leave it out and get the test pipe. The stock down pipe is already 2.5'', so you don't need to waste that 85 dollars there. Just get the test pipe(if you can)or the cat, and the cat-back pipes. The pipes are 110 dollars, you don't need a muffler either-the turbo is a good muffler. So, with the KN filter and exhaust you should spool so fast you will crap your pants, and have way better top end. Next you should think about buying that Chrome-moly transplate, just for safety. At that same time get the T2/T3 clutch combo from FWDperformance, it's only 150 dollars, a real deal if you ask me. Make sure you break in the clutch before you fool around. Then, you should be able to drop the hammer on that thing and smoke your friends in the T2's.
After that, you should look at intercooling. Front mount is the best, I wouldn't bother with a stock T2 one, they aren't that great. After the IC, then up your boost. The safest way is to just buy an ECU from FWDperformance maybe stage 2. That takes it up to 14 PSI. With all those mods listed you should have 225-250 HP with 275-300 ft/lbs. A very fast street car.

were do u get this information. i appreciate everything. ok. i will go with intercooling. wich is better the air to air or the air to water? also the quickly spooled mitsu, would an aftermarket eclipse turbo mount up and will it still have quick spool. im kinda lookin at more than 14 psi. i want around 18-20 but with quick spool. i like the gearbox in this thing so i will keep it now with someone elses opinion added. i also found a hydrolic cam and would it help or is it a waste. the best range on it is 3000-6000. good for a turboi right? also too much tire spin alredy so i couldnt imagine it after mods, how to keep em' planted? i dump at around 2-2800 so am i over reving for the stock clutch or is it just too high. really man u are a good person for helping. im just a car fanatic and love to race but all my friends have newer cars and have no faith in the old ones. i love this car and want it fast. i want 12's in 1/4.lol. ive seen these cars fast but have not street legal mods or v8's in them wich im against that.basically im wondering about forced induction, gears, and the best to make it light. tyhanks for the help.

were do u get this information. i appreciate everything. ok. i will go with intercooling. wich is better the air to air or the air to water? also the quickly spooled mitsu, would an aftermarket eclipse turbo mount up and will it still have quick spool. im kinda lookin at more than 14 psi. i want around 18-20 but with quick spool. i like the gearbox in this thing so i will keep it now with someone elses opinion added. i also found a hydrolic cam and would it help or is it a waste. the best range on it is 3000-6000. good for a turboi right? also too much tire spin alredy so i couldnt imagine it after mods, how to keep em' planted? i dump at around 2-2800 so am i over reving for the stock clutch or is it just too high. really man u are a good person for helping. im just a car fanatic and love to race but all my friends have newer cars and have no faith in the old ones. i love this car and want it fast. i want 12's in 1/4.lol. ive seen these cars fast but have not street legal mods or v8's in them wich im against that.basically im wondering about forced induction, gears, and the best to make it light. tyhanks for the help.

My info is from personal experience, and a lot from searching in forums too.
I personally like Air/air intercoolers, I know Polygon likes air/liquid. Air/air is maintenance free, and pretty much lasts forever.
Some mods will be required to bolt up that Eclipse turbo, I don't recommend it. Look at www.FWDperformance.com they have upgrade turbos, and even hybrids too.
http://www.fwdperformance.com/store/Category.asp?IDCatalog=62&txtCatalog=Rebuilds
Get the S60 or S70 turbo. I wouldn't recommend a hybrid.
You will want to keep your engine a roller cam, trust me it's better than the slider/hydraulic cams. Try Taft cams, again at FWDperformance.com.
You might want to upgrade to an LSD in your car, expensive but worth it. Quiafe goes for around 1100. Also, look for a good set of sticky street tires. Get size 225/50/15's, thats what shelbys have.
Yeah keep the 520 tranny, but definitely get that Chrome moly transplate.
If you want more than 14 PSI, than you must change your tranny. Plus more than 14 PSI your are risking blowing your stock internals. You already have a lot of miles on it, don't push it. You will be already almost doubling the boost output. Oh yeah, the mitsu turbo is good to about 18 PSI.
With the mods I listed you should be in 13's very easily. Trust me you will smoke those T2's like they were civics! LOL
If you go more than 15 PSI you need the 3 bar MAP sensor. More than 15 PSI gets into a whole new world. Stage 3 ECU from FWDperformance is 15 PSI.

Oh, good source of info for you:
www.thedodgegarage.com

Sorry to break into your thread here but you are my last hope. No one can tell me what kind of a turbo I have. I just got the thing and it is now sitting right next to me on the floor but I don't even know what kind of a turbo it is can anyone help? First it is out of a Daytona and is a Mitsu. The numbers on the compressor side say TE04H 4448992. Exhaust side has these numbers on it H1 9E D4 83-61 H9 D21. These numbers I can't decipher. Thanks if you can help me. :smile:

What do you want to know about it? It's an 88-up T1 turbo.

its a TE04H Mitsubishit turbo and it sucks that is what I found out. The compressor is too small, the bearings are a third the size of a garrett and the exhaust side is too small and restricts exhaust movement. :p Thanks for your help though.

It would be a good turbo for a D16 home-made turbo kit or something. Good for small displacement engines. Yeah it's too small for the 2.5L that are in Daytonas, they run out of breath after 4200-4300 RPM. Very sad. I have the older Daytona with the Garret, and I have a 2.2L. I regularly take mine to 5700-5800 RPM no problem. That mitsu turbo is capable of about 17-18 PSI, and the Garret good to 21-22. But the Garret pushes more CFM than the mitsu.

I would have to agree with everything that PWMAN has said. The A-520 will handle a good amount of power with the plate. Although I prefer the 2.2L and I do prefer the air/water intercoolers. The air/air would be better for most people. They are less money, last longer, and are less complicated. Air/water intercoolers are great because they give you a slightly colder intake charge, but you can just get an intercooler sprayer for your air/air setup. The real advantage to air/water setups is when you don't have the space to put an air/air where there is good cool airflow. I for one am going with an air/air with a sprayer on the GTC project.

The main reasons that I prefer the 2.2L to the 2.5L are the fact that they never put the Getrag A-555 and A-568 on the 2.5L engine. Granted the A-520 is a good transaxle but it could never hold up to the Getrags. I also liked the 2.2L because of the turbos that they came with like the T03, VNT25, and the TB03, call me crazy, but I like Garrett turbos. I never liked the Mitsubishi TEO4H. Now with the 2.5L engine you will have more airflow if you change out the exhaust and intake, but you won't be taking full advantage of that airflow because the TEO4H doesn't have very good airflow, it is a very small turbo. While it might give you the hole-shot guys with the T03 and the same mods will go right by you before the end of the 1/4 mile. The TEO4H might spool quickly, but it just runs out of steam much faster. Also, the 2.5L engines all have balanced shafts; they rob you of about 5-7HP. Only a few 2.2L ever had them. The 2.5L only had 10 more ft/lbs of torque than most of the 2.2L engines and some of the 2.2L setups actually had 210 ft/lbs of torque as well taking that advantage away. So it had equal torque and more HP. It all comes down to a matter of opinion.

On a side note, keep an eye on your internals. The 2.5L internals weren't nearly as beefy as the 2.2L mainly the pistons.

On a side note, keep an eye on your internals. The 2.5L internals weren't nearly as beefy as the 2.2L mainly the pistons.

You mean the T2 2.2L? Or older (85-back) T1 2.2. Because the 86-88 2.2 T1's have the light weight rods which can only handle about 225 HP.

The 520 trans should be more than enough (with the plate) for a daily driver. It's hard to imagine someone making more than 300 HP on a daily driven turbo dodge. Unless, you have a 300 HP daily driver that you take to the track every now and then and turn up the boost. Then, of course, you will need a getrag tranny. But for most, like me, the 520 is plenty for our wants-for now! Maybe long term plans.

Also, Polygon, when you were talking about the 2.5/2.2 torque factors-keep in mind those were peak torque numbers. I'm sure the 2.5 is way more torquey at 2-3K RPM than the 2.2. I actually wish I had a 2.5, of course I am also use to V8 torque. So I'll say it like this, for a street car go with the 2.5, and for a track car the 2.2 is better. With the 2.5 all you would do is spin off the line anyway.

Yeah the Garrets are much better than the Mitsu POS's.

You mean the T2 2.2L? Or older (85-back) T1 2.2. Because the 86-88 2.2 T1's have the light weight rods which can only handle about 225 HP.

The 520 trans should be more than enough (with the plate) for a daily driver. It's hard to imagine someone making more than 300 HP on a daily driven turbo dodge. Unless, you have a 300 HP daily driver that you take to the track every now and then and turn up the boost. Then, of course, you will need a getrag tranny. But for most, like me, the 520 is plenty for our wants-for now! Maybe long term plans.

Also, Polygon, when you were talking about the 2.5/2.2 torque factors-keep in mind those were peak torque numbers. I'm sure the 2.5 is way more torquey at 2-3K RPM than the 2.2. I actually wish I had a 2.5, of course I am also use to V8 torque. So I'll say it like this, for a street car go with the 2.5, and for a track car the 2.2 is better. With the 2.5 all you would do is spin off the line anyway.

Yeah the Garrets are much better than the Mitsu POS's.

Yeah, I was talking about ONLY the Turbo II, III, and IV engines. Yeah the Turbo I 2.2L had weaker rods, but had the same pistons and crank. I think that the crank in the 2.5L Turbo I engines were plenty beefy, not sure about the rods, but I know the pistons were quite weak and should be replaced with high horsepower applications. Good point on the power, the 2.5L will have its torque lower in the powerband than the 2.2L.

Yeah, I was talking about ONLY the Turbo II, III, and IV engines. Yeah the Turbo I 2.2L had weaker rods, but had the same pistons and crank. I think that the crank in the 2.5L Turbo I engines were plenty beefy, not sure about the rods, but I know the pistons were quite weak and should be replaced with high horsepower applications. Good point on the power, the 2.5L will have its torque lower in the powerband than the 2.2L.

The T1 had a cast crank, T2 had forged. Rods in 2.5 were the exact same as T2 rods, forged.

o.k. i am now confused cause ploygon u told me u would go with the 2.5 block. u also said i could get around 18lbs of boost outta the mitsu, and to keep it because of the quick spool. also the a-520 "im equipped with" was the best. now after reading all of these post , i believe im gonna go with the 2.2 l setup, their gearbox, intercooler, and garret turbo. im wanting power and any thing on the car that in any way poss. has a "restriction " is getting replaced. so, sincee the garret spools higher, and i drove one today, it also gets more boost, doesnt retrict air flow. i dumped the clutch on that thing i i thought i was in a vg probe. instant pavement, very quick response, quick spool that held all the way up. i love the gearbox setup on that thing to. unfortuanately its not for sale so i went and bought me a 2.2 t2 turbo outta an shelby z. only 30,000 miles for 200.00. i got me a tranny outta the same car for 100.00. and intercooler fo 75.00. all belts for it, all new hoses for it, and radiator flushed. im installing the parts tommorow. also i got my shipment in of shocks, struts, and ball joints today. i got some lowering springs too. project starts tomm. and should be on the road by saturday afternoon. ill take some pics and show u guys the new car. also i cant sell the parts cause i got them sold to a friend and hes putting them in his 88. also if i can have another persons opinion besides polygon, no offense man but u know, how good is the 88 chrysler conquest tsi. i love the way they look and im thinking of fixing one of them up for race after the daytona. mainly info on reliability of tranny, engine internals, and capability of withholding aftermarket parts (for race setup). i already trust the daytona. sorry for the reading guys but im heavily into cars and have no clue on these things and u guys are the only ones to help so u know.

Conquests are made by Mitsubishi with a Chrysler badge on the front and back. Stick with the MOPARS! They are much more reliable. You see how crappy your Mitsu turbo is, how about the whole car! The stock turbo on a TSI is like half the size of your mitsu turbo! Pathetic. The first time I saw one it freaked me out. And I thought what a worthless piece of crap.

o.k. i am now confused cause ploygon u told me u would go with the 2.5 block. u also said i could get around 18lbs of boost outta the mitsu, and to keep it because of the quick spool. also the a-520 "im equipped with" was the best. now after reading all of these post , i believe im gonna go with the 2.2 l setup, their gearbox, intercooler, and garret turbo. im wanting power and any thing on the car that in any way poss. has a "restriction " is getting replaced. so, sincee the garret spools higher, and i drove one today, it also gets more boost, doesnt retrict air flow. i dumped the clutch on that thing i i thought i was in a vg probe. instant pavement, very quick response, quick spool that held all the way up. i love the gearbox setup on that thing to. unfortuanately its not for sale so i went and bought me a 2.2 t2 turbo outta an shelby z. only 30,000 miles for 200.00. i got me a tranny outta the same car for 100.00. and intercooler fo 75.00. all belts for it, all new hoses for it, and radiator flushed. im installing the parts tommorow. also i got my shipment in of shocks, struts, and ball joints today. i got some lowering springs too. project starts tomm. and should be on the road by saturday afternoon. ill take some pics and show u guys the new car. also i cant sell the parts cause i got them sold to a friend and hes putting them in his 88. also if i can have another persons opinion besides polygon, no offense man but u know, how good is the 88 chrysler conquest tsi. i love the way they look and im thinking of fixing one of them up for race after the daytona. mainly info on reliability of tranny, engine internals, and capability of withholding aftermarket parts (for race setup). i already trust the daytona. sorry for the reading guys but im heavily into cars and have no clue on these things and u guys are the only ones to help so u know.

Actually, if you look back at all of my posts, I've been the one telling you to go with the 2.2L, PWMAN is the one that suggested you stick with the 2.5L and do the Turbo II conversion. I just feel that the 2.2L Turbo II swap would be easier. Since I see that is what you’re doing, don't forget to get all the under-hood wiring and the computer. Good luck with the conversion, after driving a 2.5L Turbo II conversion I liked my Turbo II a lot more, enjoy!

As for my opinion on the Conquest, when my 1989 LeBaron GTC Turbo II was totaled that was one of the cars that I looked at to replace it. While I will agree with you that it is a great looking car, and the drive tires are at the correct end of the car. They weren't at all reliable. Almost all of the ones I test drove had some sort of major problem. The ones that didn't were dog slow, and one of them was pushing 14PSI and had a new exhaust. My LeBaron would have murdered that car. For having a 2.6L I4 they weren't very powerful and didn't always take well to modding. Like I said, they also liked to fall apart. The Chrysler common block (2.2L and 2.5L) was far more reliable than the 2.6L in the Conquest. You can't tell me that the Conquest's transmission was more reliable that the A-555, the A-568, or the A-520 for that matter. Go on Car Domain and ask the Conquest and Starion owners what they think of their cars and what kind of repairs they've had to make over the years. All I know is that I never had problems with my GTC that weren't driver related. I also know that I've yet to talk to anyone that owned a Conquest/Starion that would call it reliable.

Also, a good site to check out for information on modding and working on Chrysler and Dodge turbo-charged cars is The Dodge Garage. (http://www.thedodgegarage.com) It has very good, clear, and easy to understand information. You might also want to drop by the Turbo Dodge Forums. (http://www.turbododge.com) I'm a memeber there and there are a lot of other memebers that can answer just about any question you have.

The T1 had a cast crank, T2 had forged. Rods in 2.5 were the exact same as T2 rods, forged.

Whoops, you're right, but the cast pistons in the 2.5L should be replaced no matter what if you plan on modding your car. They will not hold up to much detonation.

Well, I don't think you have to replace the pistons ''no matter what''. I would say if you plan to go over, say, 12 PSI. And any more PSI above stock should definitely be intercooled.

Now about those conquests. The one you probably drove that was slow was probably a pre-88 one. Because in 89 I know they had 188 HP, and like 240 ft/lbs or something like that. The 89's were very fast. Only a T3 turbo dodge could beat the 89 TSI's. But of course, they were still unreliable.
And of course, that one pushing 14 PSI is nothing like a Garret 14 PSI. The TSI/starion turbos are so small they flow no CFM numbers. 14 PSI on our Garrets is probably like 25 PSI on the TSI, then of course that turbo probably can't handle much more than 14 PSI without overspinning. Have you ever seen one Polygon? I couldn't believe how tiny it was! My brother works on diesels, he says my turbo on my daytona is a tiny little toy. HA! The one on the TSI is a toy compared to mine! LOL

I've got an 88 Daytona Shelby Z, and think a Daytona forum would be great. Although I noticed that most of your questions seem to be turbo dodge related so I recomend TurboDodge.com if you cant find your answer at the Dodge Garage.

just because dodge didn't intercool an engine or install a particular tranny or use such and such a turbo doesn't mean you can't!!! i got a common block 2.5, pulled the balance shafts out of it and plugged the oil feed hole, rebuilt it, intercooled it, found an a-520 (gonna take the gears off the 555 in the garage and slap those on another 520, also in the garage....126mph@6000rpms in 4th gear!!!) and a mitsu turbo (soon to be swapped for a garret for better breathing). oh yeah, i stuffed it into a charger, which was never offered with a 2.5, so i'm using bigger injectors and less timing to make it run like a raped ape. i have an 89 smec harness and computer that will go in when i can afford to not have the car running for a week or so. with these turbo cars, there are more than one or three ways to skin a cat, so the best approach is to figure out what you want out of it first, then come up with the best combo to make it happen.
about the 520, i think it's torque that kills em. my buddy mike ran 12second passes on several of them (he kept switching back and forth to auto and manual) with his 2.2 at somewhere around 20psi. i got one and pulled 4 teeth off of third gear at 12 psi with my intercooled 2.5.
make sure you ask questions about options before you buy anything, because these cars can be super cheap to build if you are willing to work and search.
tony

about the 520, i think it's torque that kills em. my buddy mike ran 12second passes on several of them (he kept switching back and forth to auto and manual) with his 2.2 at somewhere around 20psi. i got one and pulled 4 teeth off of third gear at 12 psi with my intercooled 2.5.
make sure you ask questions about options before you buy anything, because these cars can be super cheap to build if you are willing to work and search.
tony

Yeah it's torque. The 520 can only handle 240-250 ft/lbs, but if you add the chrome-moly transplate(have you ever done that?)it can handle 300 easy. 300 is usually more than enough for most people. Most of the 2.5's came with the 523 trans anyway.

*quote*if you add the chrome-moly transplate(have you ever done that?)*quote*

yeah, i got one from a guy in michigan. custom made .210" as opposed to regular aftermarket .180". pretty sweet piece. probably why i haven't killed my tranny yet! gotta get my other rides back together so i can build a 520/555 hybrid.
tony

I don't know If I mentioned this but a guy has that TEO4H in his 2.4L and he says it puts out 18 psi and drops to 7 after 3k. Is that due to the bearings being so small not to mention the compressor. Anyways I was thinking of putting the mitsu TEO4H in my 420A Dodge Neon 2.0L. Anyone think the turbo will work well? Also the 420A can handle 275 horses without problems. It can also handle up to 400 horse with a stage 3 turbo, forged components of course but I figured the 275 thing on stock interns was pretty good. They even tore it down after tens of thousands of road miles and high performance use and it looked fabulous upon inspection. Just a fact on the 2L thought it was impressive. Len Ayala's record breaking Neon is completely stock other than JE Forged Pistons and 4340 steel billet rods. He's run 11.8's with a stage III. This is what impressed me about the Chrysler engine, get this. The rest of it is completely stock, even the throttle body. No port or even cams! Ayala still drives it regularly on the street. :werd:

i would think that's because the mitsu just can't move enough volume. i have a 2.5 (8 valve head) and it's got no problem moving 18 psi clear up to 5000 rpms (found out by accident!!!) .