Dust boot/camber kit/bumpstop q's

[WINDBAG WARNING]

Ok. About 40,000 miles ago I got my Eibach Prokit, Koni Yellows, and 16 inch rims put on by, as it turns out, an idiot. The evidence:

1. The bumpstops were cut in half as I instructed. Problem is, he cut them lengthwise. Someone must have slapped that guy in the back of the head after he did that because the rear bumpstops were done correctly.

2. He threw away my dust covers because (I'm guessing here) this moron thought they wouldn't fit and didn't feel like cutting them. The guy cut the bumpstops lengthwise for gods sakes.

3. The put the spring perches in the front upside, a problem I had him correct immediately.

Anyway, the reason #1 and #2 surfaced recently is because I'm working as a marketing director for a Honda/Toyota dealership now and have the top mechanic working on my car now. He races his ill 88 CRX and is clearly not an idiot.

So what am I doing about it?

1. I'm getting new bumpstops put in the front.
2. I'm ordering new oem dustboots which may have to be cut to fit.

I should definitely do this right?

Now, to the stuff I'm less sure about. I got an alignment since it has been a while and the camber readings are as follows:

FL: 1.1
FR: 1.3
RL: 1.8
RR: 2.4

I've read that a little negative camber is good for handling and not that bad on the inside edge of the tires. My tires are in good shape and have been dismounted and rotated criss-cross style so that both edges get turns at the more prone to wear inside edge. I do think it is strange that the right side of my car has more negative camber than my left but my new mechanic did not think it was strange saying "That's just how it sits and you can't do anything about it unless you get a camber kit."

So, all things considered, if anything, what do you recommend for dealing with the camber?

The fronts seem pretty close with eachother so I wouldn't worry much about them. The rear raises an eyebrow to me though. I recommend the bolt and washer rear camber correction trick. Use 2 washers per bolt for the left rear, and 3 per bolt for the right rear. How low did you drop the car out of curiosity, because the camber shouldn't be that extreme as being almost -3 out.

Once you get the rear camber sorted out, get an alignment and your tire wear should be minimal as toe wears them out MUCH faster than camber does by itself.

The fronts seem pretty close with eachother. The rear raises an eyebrow to me though. I recommend the bolt and washer rear camber correction trick. Use 2 washers per bolt for the ledt rear, and 3 per bolt for the right rear. How low did you drop the car out of curiosity, because the camber shouldn't be that extreme as being almost -3 out.

Yes, my eyebrow was raised as well. I'll ask my mechanic if he's familiar with the washers trick.

As far as I know the car is dropped 1.5 inches like Eibach says.

Yes you should have boots & stops!
I would check that RR for some bent suspension parts.
Make sure to cut the new b.stops correctly . . .Thats crazy lengthwise.

There is how-to online with the washer trick, but I don't know what site it is.