93 Ranger 4x4 not engaging

My Rangers 4x4 is not engaging when pushing the electronic engage button. I have checked all fuses and looked at the electrical connections on the Transfercase. Except for some grime on the connections all wires look fine. I had just used the 4x4 about 3 weeks ago when it snowed and there was no weird mechanical sounds and everything worked fine. Please any suggestions would be much appreciated.

I don't even know if this is still the case (since yours is newer)--you probably already knew this--- but try going in reverse for a while, and then forward. Usually, you have to go the oppossite direction you engaged 4x4 in to get out of it, so maybe you should just try going in reverse to engage it?? worth a shot :uhoh:

I had the same problems last winter where the 4WD was engaged bud after a few seconds of engaging I'd hear a grinding noise along with a loss of traction. Turned out the front hubs were shot. That might be the case for you. good luck.

It could be the electronics in the switch. On my 98 Ford Ranger the same thing happened and I had to replace the chipset.

http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html


This is a wicked site that covers most common problems with the Ford Explorer.....a not so distant cousin to the Ford Ranger. I just helped a friend repair automatic hubs.

This site was awesome......nobody will service auto-hubs, they just tell you to replace them with the manual lockers. Even the dealerships do this too.

This site actually shows the root cause (buildup of thick grease) in the hubs that causes them not to operate properly. We tore his hubs down and were able to follow the instructions to make the auto-hubs work like new.

There is also great instructions on the transfer case motor and how to service it instead of replacing it and spending a lot of money.

Enjoy!

Haven't replaced my hubs yet. I'll have to check out this site before I blow my cash on new hubs. Thanks for the info.

is the front axlw not engaging or is the transfercase not shifting? If it is not shifting then just get someone to keep on pushing the 4x4 button while you get under your truck and gently tap on the shifter motor casing That usually works 99.99% of the time

You shouldn't have to tap on the transfer case motor! Thats why i posted the link. There are great instructions on how to fix the motors so they function like new.

You shouldn't have to tap on the transfer case motor! Thats why i posted the link. There are great instructions on how to fix the motors so they function like new.


yea but when your ranger is worh about 10 bucks it's kinda hard to put much tiime or monney in to it, tapping on the motor is free and does not take long.

My 92 Ranger is not engaging. I've pulled off the shift motor.. Cleaned it and it's like new. However, the motor will not run when the switch is pressed. Switch tests fine. The computer has been replaced. The motor, when jumped with 12V will turn both ways but when in 4HI, no lights on the switch lite up. But in 4LO they both work. So I'm thinking that the shift motor is bad.

Also, I have WARN manual's to replace. I pulled the tire and the hub and they are LOADED with grease! Do I read this thread right that there should be NO grease at all in the hub? They turn freely and when turned to lock they "stop"... ??? The spine has lots of grease too!

Should the spine and all that stuff, including the hub be spotless??

I'm replacing the motor since I need to have the electronics working before I start ripping off hubs.

Thanks for any advice/information.

Alan

There is some sort of a "reset" button on the computer....have you tried that? I would. If that doesn't work it almost sounds like part of the feedback circuit isn't working to let the computer know what position the transfer case is in? Have you read the post about the stopper that goes bad inside the motor? If not send me an E-mail at [email protected] and I will send you the link.

Manual hubs don't seem to care if they have grease in them or not. In fact on my 93 Ranger, I pack them full of grease. This is the wrong situation to have for the auto hubs though. If you have uto hubs and they are full of grease, they need to come apart and be cleaned. The only lube in the auto hubs should be a good coating of ATF. To clean them, remove from truck, place in vise, use small long snap ring pliers and remove the small snap ring. Turn it upside down and the inner guts will come out. Put it back in the vise and you need to evenly compress the retainer ring that holds the spring. Use a 90° pick to dig the snap ring out of the groove in the hub casting (it's a bit tricky but not too bad). Pull the rest of the guts out. Wash everything in the varsol tank (including the casting). Replace the 6002 bearing if you need to. They are only about 6 bucks. Coat everything in ATF and re-assemble. Some grease on the splines is normal, but I would wipe of excess.

Same problem on my ranger...

I would recommend NOT trying to fix the shitty automatic hubs. Instead, buy a set of manual hubs (milemarker makes a good set) and a conversion kit for them. It's not that expensive and a lot stronger than automatic hubs. To do the conversion...

http://www.therangerstation.com/howto_hubswap.htm

They are much better than my old automatic hubs, to engage the manual ones...push the button, get out and lock the hubs, then you're good to go and they WON'T disengage.

If your going to throw money at it like changing the hubs. Why don't you just have a transmission shop diagnose it? Also, you ever go swimming to lock in your manual hubs? You know, when I'm in 4 feet of mud I'd rather push a button that go mud diving lol. Thats just me though. Also that motor on your T-case has a positioning sensor in it. It tells the computer what mode or range your in. And if those values don't match up to other values from speed signals, brakes and some others. That motor won't even try to fire up.

Stay cool

Just got Superwinch manual locking hubs a few weeks ago. What I do is keep the hubs locked in crappy weather and when I need 4wd I just push the button to engage the transfer case. I would assume that it would be OK to do. I dont have lockers up front, so I don't think I'm putting any stress on the front end while the hubs are locked and the T-case is disengaged. Works the same as the auto hubs I had. Is this OK or not?

Try this web stie. www.therangerstation.com This guy is a "rock crawler" nut, has alot of good info on all rangers from older to the new stuff. Helped me with my 86!

Fellows, I had this problem on my 93 X cab and replaced almost everything and it turned out to be the ELECTRONIC SHIFT CONTROL MODULE that is located inside the driver side jump seat in my X cab. Bought a used one at a salvage yard for $30 and had worked great ever since.

http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html


This is a wicked site that covers most common problems with the Ford Explorer.....a not so distant cousin to the Ford Ranger. I just helped a friend repair automatic hubs.

This site was awesome......nobody will service auto-hubs, they just tell you to replace them with the manual lockers. Even the dealerships do this too.

This site actually shows the root cause (buildup of thick grease) in the hubs that causes them not to operate properly. We tore his hubs down and were able to follow the instructions to make the auto-hubs work like new.

There is also great instructions on the transfer case motor and how to service it instead of replacing it and spending a lot of money.

Enjoy!

try to open this link but it doesnt open . Is this the right link?

try to open this link but it doesnt open . Is this the right link?


Wildchango, thanks for the tips. The link you supplied does not work.

RangerRon

Thank you so much wildchango for sharing that link. I found an archive of it, it's a great service wayback provides us with, if you need to see anything not on the web anymore you can usually find it there. If you are having trouble with your 4 wheel drive not engaging when you hit your buttons like I am, this discussion provides you with all of the knowledge you will need to save yourself $400 from ford's greedy pockets. Enjoy.
http://web.archive.org/web/20041117084924/http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html (http://web.archive.org/web/20041117084924/http://www.glue.umd.edu/%7Esingletn/exp.html)


If for some reason the link doesn't work go to wayback http://www.archive.org/web/web.php and you will a search bar at the top of the page that says "all media types" in a search window directly beside it YOU MUST USE THIS WINDOW the other, labeled "the wayback machine" will get a server error. Cut and paste http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/exp.html (http://www.glue.umd.edu/%7Esingletn/exp.html) into that window and when you hit enter and the search page loads you will see a list of dates, pick the last one it's the last archive of that site. :smokin: