Aurora door lock troubleshoot

Power door locks on my 2001 Aurrora have stopped working. It seemed to progress. First the rear door locks didn't work, now the rear and passenger door locks won't open or close with key fob or power switch on doors. I can still operate the door latches manually with the door lock lever. Also the interior lights and power windows to these same doors don't work. I examined the fuses under the rear seat and found nothing blown. Any one know what controls all these devices? The driver door operates as normal. Thanks for your interest in helping.
Gene

I'd start by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes which will reset the computer that controls all tthose functions back to the baseline. Whether it works or not I'd be suspicious of the computer or something connected to the computer.

Bad ground or low voltage.

Thanks Mike, I'll do just that in the morning and respond with the results.

Indy8, bad ground at the battery or somewhere in the door/light circuit? How would I go about checking that out?

Check the battery ground strap and make sure all connections are tight. Each fuse block under the back seat has its own ground that bolts to the body. These can be weak ground areas because of the paint on the body, check and/or tighten these.

Whoops, my last paragraph is missing in action. "Also a bad battery can lead to pcm problems. What is the voltage reading and range on your DIC?"

You guys are great but a little crazy, look at the times on your thread notes. Thanks for the direction. I'm in Massachesetts. I'll check out the grounds and voltages after daylight and it warms up a little. Peace and blessings.

OK, so here is where I am at.
First, the DIC shows the voltage running very stable between 14.9 and 15.1 volts
2nd. I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes and no change in condition, surprised me I didn't even loose my radio stations.
3rd. I looked all over for ground connections. Under the seat I found only two. The main battery ground and one connection that had several black lives running into and to the chasis. I cleaned it up, smothered it with dielectric grease and reattached.
So the condition remains the same.
I'm trying to find a single source for the problem (right or wrong). In testing today:
The rear doors and passenger front doors have the same condition. The power door locks, power windows, and entry dome light don't work from the key fob, the effected door, or from the drivers door module. I also found the passenger side mirror will not respond to the driver door module. All these functions do work on the drivers door from the module, and the key fob will open and close drivers door- the parking lights do cycle when the key fob is used.
So where in the wiring do all these functions pass through, and where in the chasis might that be located, any ideas?
Thanks
PS
am I right that these fuses cloud up on the top if they blow? I have pulled the fuses I thought are associated with doors and windows, but haven't pulled every fuse to check the band.

The relay going to the door locks is a double relay and one side only goes to the drivers door where as the other side of the relay goes to all of the passenger doors. This relay is different from the rest of them so if its been switched then only the driver door will work with the fob or the key. If it hasnt been switched then I would suspect it of being bad and only half of it working.

Thank you Brihoo2k. I only have the owner's manual, not the service manual. The only relays listed in the owners manual are either under the rear seat or the right front hood. I don't recognize any of the relay descriptions as effecting the doors. Is the relay located in either of these fuse boxes? Can you tell me where on the vehicle I should expect to find the relay you're talking about? Is it one of the omnicron units we are talking about?
Thanks again, I appreciate the guidance.

The fuses you checked to see if there blown are they getting any power ? You can get a test light ground the one end and probe every fuse without pulling it. The metal tangs come out the top. I looked at your thread and it baffled me. I have the schematics for the door locks, windows, interior lights and mirrors it seems the main thing that ties together is the drivers door module there is a bus interface and some powers and grounds that tie the modules together with the drivers module each module controls the door lock actuator. but I dont see them going to the mirror. I would check for power at the fuses under the seat. Another possibility is broken wires coming out the drivers door going into the body. Now the grounds drivers door module is behind left kick panel, passenger is behind right kick panel, passenger rear module is under right front seat, left rear is under left rear seat.

Thank you Bustedratchet, I'll go through this list this morning and make sure I have power at the fuses. I'll open the drivers kick panel and see if I can find where the modules are connected.

Checked all of the fuses with a check light and there is power at every fuse. Not sure what the "kick panel" is I removed both the panel up under the steering wheel and the plastic gaurd along the door well to try and see the door wiring, it is well obscured. The wiring from the door to the body is housed in a rubber boot. I popped the rubber boot off each end but the wires tied up together and I was afraid of causing damage (like I did in removing the door gaurd and snapped a piece of the plastic insert). I pulled out the door module and cleaned it up but still don't know what wires do what. I used a meter and checked ground continuity at a ground connection located under the door well gaurd, that may be the ground bus you are talking about (a connection that joined 6 black wires to a body bolt).
The switches on the three non driver doors don't work. If the driver door module itself is defective, would that stop the door lock and window switches on the individual doors from working?

The blacks are ground. Serial data line is tan/white. It appears that the drivers door window switch runs right to the drivers module(DDM) pin B4. From there it comes back out the DDM from pin A4. From there it runs to the other door modules. The junction is in the body harness on the left side of vehicle 5.7 inches from left power seat break out. This thing sounds like it's digital ! I don't know if it is fiberoptic or wire you might want to ohm this out from pin A4 to the junction point.

bustedratchet, thank you for your help. The DDM has a single plug-in connector on the bottom that is divided into two groups. I presume by pin A4 you are pointing to the longer section that contains about 6-7 wire positions (from memory) and that A4 would be the 4th pin over from the outside position. The breakout for the harness I noticed some wires split out from the harness yesturday under the door opening plastic shield, but didn't see any connectors around there.
Still troubleshooting causes here, I want to take notice that the power to the three passenger doors is inoperable. No locks, no windows, no dome lights, and the passenger mirror not working. DDM does work on the drivers door.
I'm thinking that the door/window circuit and the circuit to the mirrors may run through the DDM, but I don't know if the dome lights that come on when you open a door would go through there. Those dome lights do work entering the drivers door, but not from any of the passenger doors.
What do you think?

Yes the drivers door window switch and mirror switch go right to the DDM. It looks like all switches in all the doors go to there perspective DDM. All seem to be interlinked with the tan/white wires. I just noticed that from the DDM is a purple serial data wire it seems to run to the rear integration module that has a interior lamp relay control and a front courtesy lamp control. It is located near upper rear corner of rear shelf. It does seem to me that it all ties into the DDM but that might be an X-pensive guess. If I were checking this one out I would OHM the wires from the drivers door (through the tube) into the body I've seen them break.

I think what you mean by "OHM the wires from the drivers door (through the tube) into the body" is to check that I have continuity through the wires from the connector at the DDM to a place after the wire harness passes back into the car interior. I'll try that tomorrow after this N'oreaster outside has quelled.
And thank you bustedratchet for desciphering that wire diagram for me.

Yes I'd check them out the way you described You must live in the north east as I do 2 snow storms in a week. I waxed my car in a T-shirt A couple days before this crap started ...........Wonder If I caused this ? let me know how it goes !

Well I spent a few frigid moments OHM testing the wires and could not make sense of it, some of the wires rang with other colors because of connections. I'm going to buy a service manual and use that to track it out. Thank you very much for your help, there is just too much circuitry to try and isolate it without a schematic.
God bless and Merry Christmas to all.
Gene

I have experienced electrical problems in my 2001 aurora - no power in locks and windows - eeverything else is fine. Did you figure out your problem ?

Regards-

PB

I have this same problem on my car and was wondering if you ever had it fixed and if so will you tell me what you did?

Hey guys I just registered to thank you for the info and try to get some help. Yes I been having the same trouble with my Aurora and it's still driving me crazy. :banghead:
When I read about checking the grounds by the kick panels and the one under the rear seat I was hoping that was it. I tore into it, and for each one I had about 4 or 5 black ground wires going into one connection which was bolted to the body. I took the bolts out and sure enough they were all in need of some attention. The one under the seat was the worst. So as excited as I was I cleaned them up with some sand paper and some liquid blast. Then I applied some added protection with some dielectric grease. I rubbed my hands and tried the windows...it was a no go...:headshake
So what next?
I read through the rest of the form and I got a little confused about checking the data wire and the DDR which I think is the Driver Door Module. I'm just trying to figure this out so I can have my car back again. I like things working how they should.
Also I did the usual checks with fuses and relays. I pulled each one and checked it. I'm on the road I forgot to take my OEM meter. What confused me is on the fuse box where is the relay? The paper on the box cover says relay but in the fuse box, it is a 30 amp fuse. I switched it with the 30 amp fuse for the seat because I know it works. It was a no go.
So where is this relay. Someone mentioned it is a dual relay. One side for the drivers door and the other side for the rest of the car?
Do I have to take apart the whole dash and apulstry to find this hidden thing. Whe designing this awesome car im sure they took in consideration that this relay would be poped sooner or later.
Im postive i dont have broken wires, it is as if I have no power going to my doors. It was steady for a few days the all of a sudden it didnt work. I'm thinking the bad grounds poped the relay that i need to find.
Your help im so much appreciated
God Bless
Dave

I have appreciated your contributions very much. Recently purchased a 1999 Aurora (35,000 miles/like new condition). Car had been driven lightly over past 3 years (less than 10,000 miles total). However the car seems a little short on power compared to my original 1995 Aurora. Any tips on what I could do to check out my concern? Also, when applying preassure to brakes when car is idling, a very slight vibration is noticeable (at peddle and steering wheel). Any hints from you concerning this? Thanks with appreciation. RZ

Hi RZ
Your welcome. Since I wrote my article i still haven't received a reply nor have I discovered anything new.
You asked about power loss as if your car should have more than what it is giving. The things to check is you air, fuel, ignition and exaust. Hummm...I saw the millage and year that tells me the car sat a lot. So first I first I put on a new fuel filter. It might be worth draining the tank to.
Also I open up the air box to let it breath better. In my 03 Aurora I found a restricter plate in the air box. When I took that out boy it felt like it could breath a lot better. Then of course I put a K&N air filter on it.
Since the car sat a lot next I check your coil packs for contact. Check for corrosion, sand it off and dress it up with some dielectric grease.
Your exhaust might be another contributing factor. Your mufflers could be restricting as well. I'll tell you what..when I put Flow Master mufflers of I noticed a heck of a difference. More power and better throttle response. When I got my car I had sat for a long time to.
With the pulsing brakes...You might have air in the break lines. Also I check lines and make sure they are not rotted. It be worth bleeding out the system.
With it effecting your steering...I don't know. I ask around. It doesn't have enough miles for a ti-rod to be worn.

Well best luck to you and hope I was help full.
Take care
Dave

Has anyone ever solved this? I have a 2001 Aurora and the same problem. One issue I had which no one else has mentioned is a leak in the drainage system for the sunroof. When I bought the car it had 2 inches of water in the back drivers side and the front was wet as well. It has been suggested to me that the water corroded the splice under the drivers seat. It has been raining a bit here so I haven't pulled the seats out yet to see if I could find it... Any Solutions yet?
Again It appears as though that I have no power to the other three doors besides the drivers - no lights, windows, mirror, etc. It has to be the serial cable but I'm uncertain how to test it.

I have any 2001 Aurora. I replaced all the doors due to an accident. The door locks work only when the key is not in the ignition. they do notwork when the key is in the ignition. Further, the interior light does not come on when any door is opened. Finally, The passenger mirror is acting goofy. I adjust it to my comfort however in drive it goes where ever it wants to go and in reverse in will aim at the ground. Whats up with that?

Thank you Brihoo2k. I only have the owner's manual, not the service manual.http://uthwic.zuiwomen.com/17.jpghttp://uthwic.zuiwomen.com/18.jpghttp://uthwic.zuiwomen.com/19.jpghttp://uthwic.zuiwomen.com/20.jpg

Christianmom, unfortunately, your vehicle is pretty complicated, when it comes to doors........

Each door has a door module, door switches, window switches, actuators, motors.......the modules communicate via a serial data line......

To find out if a circuit/module is bad, you need a scan tool capable of reading serial data(very expensive)........

Same thing with interior lights......communication via serial II data....scan tool is necessary to check communication between door modules and rear integration module....

As for your mirrors, you have to learn from your owner's manual how to "personalize" your options....your mirrors are "programmed" to point to the ground when putting the car in reverse(under personalization, you can change this).......as for setting your mirrors, you need to read your owners manual.....first you have to put the memory seat module in program mode(turn "your" key to on, press set button for one beep)....then you set your seat and mirrors.....then you have to press and hold the set button until you hear to beeps, I think....check your owner's manual.....