Only get Daytime Running Lights
kibboy
12-07-2003, 04:19 PM
My Metro only runs the daytime running lights. For about a year now the nighttime lights have not worked. I took it to my trusting mechanic and he told me in order to solve the problem it would cost a sugnificant amount of cash because he would have to go through the wireing, so he suggested as an interm solution he angle the daytime lights as best he could.
When I go to put on the nightlights, nothing happens, but the daytime lights stay on. My brights go on when I pull the stick for temporary brights but do not go on when I push the stick for constant brights.
Anyone heard of this before or can give me some checks to narrow down the problem?
Thanks
Kibb
When I go to put on the nightlights, nothing happens, but the daytime lights stay on. My brights go on when I pull the stick for temporary brights but do not go on when I push the stick for constant brights.
Anyone heard of this before or can give me some checks to narrow down the problem?
Thanks
Kibb
geozukigti
12-11-2003, 12:42 AM
Sorry man, i've got that issue too. I push the button for the headlights and "poof" they turn off. I went through the wiring, diagrams, checked all the relays, and nothing. So I guess i'm not the only one stuck. I'm gonna tear the cluster apart in a few days and volt-meter the hell out of it. I'll let ya know if I find anything. I'm thinkin it might be a loose ground.
kibboy
12-12-2003, 01:53 PM
If you could keep me updated on what you find it would be greatly appreciated. My lights also go off when I turn on the nightlights. I've heard about some issues with regards to connections in the stearing column, so I am going to try and take that apart soon. I'll keep you updated.
My email is my username at hotmail.com.
Thanks
kibb
My email is my username at hotmail.com.
Thanks
kibb
sezI
12-18-2003, 03:10 PM
I've had a similar problem.
It turned out that the switches themselves were bad.
I've had to replace them several times now.
So now I keep a piece of plastic the width of the headlight and parking light switches and jam it behind the buttons to keep them both engaged at the same time.
It's sorta a pain but beats taking the dash apart and paying for parts.
It turned out that the switches themselves were bad.
I've had to replace them several times now.
So now I keep a piece of plastic the width of the headlight and parking light switches and jam it behind the buttons to keep them both engaged at the same time.
It's sorta a pain but beats taking the dash apart and paying for parts.
kibboy
12-18-2003, 11:31 PM
What switches do you mean? Where can I find these switches?
kibb
kibb
sezI
12-19-2003, 06:48 PM
I guess I should clarify what the problem was with my '89 metro.
With the button for the headlights pressed I would get the headlights to come on but, the dash and taillights would not.
On the flipside with the parking lights button depressed everything worked as they were supposed to, parking lights and dash lights (no head lights)
So by pressing both buttons at the same time I could have headlights, dash and taillights at the same time.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/124184jerry-rig-lights.jpg
The problem was traced to the button cluster for the headlights.
To replace them you have to remove them as a unit.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/124184light-swich-pod.jpg
With the button for the headlights pressed I would get the headlights to come on but, the dash and taillights would not.
On the flipside with the parking lights button depressed everything worked as they were supposed to, parking lights and dash lights (no head lights)
So by pressing both buttons at the same time I could have headlights, dash and taillights at the same time.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/124184jerry-rig-lights.jpg
The problem was traced to the button cluster for the headlights.
To replace them you have to remove them as a unit.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/124184light-swich-pod.jpg
barcade134
12-20-2003, 05:50 PM
I am having the same problem. I have the rotory switch as opposed to the push buttons. I am going to keep looking on the internet for a solution but I haven't found one yet. Any one have any idea how to fix this problem? The answer will be much appreciated.
irmolars
12-26-2003, 09:41 PM
Have the same problem with my 96 Metro. Had it in today for the timing belt. Had the dealer check it out. I have heard this more than once. Burnt terminal on the fuse block under the dash. I could have had mine fixed today. $326.00 For the block plus labor. I will look at it and go around it.
JoeMoke
01-09-2004, 03:59 PM
i had the same prob with my 96 metro as imolars (with the burnt terminal). it's aggrivated me for years and i had to wiggle the wires to get headlights to come back on. it was always after i flashed the brights that i had it go out - until the final time a few weeks ago when the terminal burnt completely off. after reading imolars' $326+ estimaite, i opted for a few minutes with a dremel on the fuse block, soldered a wire to the internal copper rail, and i installed a new set of connectors back to the wire that also burned. not counting apprehension, the whole job took minutes.
geozukigti
01-17-2004, 12:22 AM
wiring harness that goes in the bottom of the fusebox. Green wires. I finally found it. I crimped a new terminal into the harness plug, and it works fine. If anyone wants pics of what the problem was, i'll be happy to email em to ya.
kibboy
01-17-2004, 11:59 AM
Actually, I would love to see those pics if you have them handy. Because all the good advice on this board, I managed to wigle the fusebox wires and it works, presently. But I know that this is just an interm solution that won't last, and I will eventually have to get out the sodering gun.
My email is my username @hotmail.com
Thanks!
kibboy
My email is my username @hotmail.com
Thanks!
kibboy
dan deutekom
02-10-2004, 11:43 AM
It happens to my 96 about every three months. I just kick the wires at the base of the steering column with my foot while driving and it cures it for another 3 months or so. Would this be the wiring harness to the fuse box?
geozukigti
02-10-2004, 12:37 PM
yep, that's them. I'll dig up those pics and put em up here when I fnid em. Just formatted my computer, and I've gotta go gut my car tonight.
barcade134
02-26-2004, 05:19 PM
THank you ever one. That did the trick! I have High beams again with out having to holding them on.
Ct.John
04-10-2004, 09:56 AM
Have the same problem with a 95 Metro and the dealer wanted $450 + labor to install a new dimmer switch. Will check the fuse block.
geozukigti
04-10-2004, 11:31 AM
I'll have a spare fuse block in week or 2 of ya need it.
barcade134
04-10-2004, 11:54 AM
When you do check the fuse block the damage may not be very noticable so be very scrutinous when looking for brown or black plastic around the base of the metal pins.
Dorkula
04-11-2004, 03:13 AM
Can you post those pics up? I am very interested :)
whitson74346
04-28-2004, 10:03 PM
My 1996 Geo Metro left head light burned out, I need to replace it; however, I cannot find a way to remove and replace it. Please post the proper steps for removal and replacement of the "sealed beam head lamp". Thank you.
geozukigti
04-29-2004, 12:19 PM
Sealed beams are easy. First, remove the plastic trim around the headlight. Should be held on by 3 or 4 screws. Then, you'll see a metal bracket that holds it onto the mounting bracket. Remove the 4 screws holding the metal bracket on, and the headlight will fall right out.
dubt
05-07-2004, 09:47 PM
hey i'm not the only one who had the headlight prob, eh? I was running a cheap thump 700 watt amp that drained too much power and the first place for it to get more power was from the headlights. that almost burnt out the wiring harness under the dash untill i got an alpine digital amp. So basically, if your using too much juice for your alternator to supply with the lights on, check that panel and find a wire that should be too hot to hold onto, three burnt fingers found my problem:(
mrmambo
07-02-2004, 02:39 PM
Hey, there:
I posted this problem elsewhere on forum, but I didn't realize at the time that my DRLs were out, too.
Here's my situation:
1995 Geo Metro
Daytime Running Lights - OUT
Nightime Headlights - driver's side is very dim, passenger's side is dim
Highbeams - driver's side works fine, passenger's side is OUT
I've tried the following, to no avail:
- jiggled the wiring harnesses
- kicked all around under the dashboard and around the fuse block
- replaced the fuses for the headlights with higher (20A) ones
- unplugged and plugged all the connectors going into the fuse block
- looked at the wires going into the fuseblock and all looks fine
Any suggestions?
Do I need to remove the whole fuse block to really look at it? Are most of you guys actually replacing the whole fuse block: is that the problem?
Could it be the switch on the stem off the steering column?
How do I check and repair these things?
Thanks for your help - and, yes, I have been trying to read through all the headlight postings on this forum. What a mess!
-Mark-
I posted this problem elsewhere on forum, but I didn't realize at the time that my DRLs were out, too.
Here's my situation:
1995 Geo Metro
Daytime Running Lights - OUT
Nightime Headlights - driver's side is very dim, passenger's side is dim
Highbeams - driver's side works fine, passenger's side is OUT
I've tried the following, to no avail:
- jiggled the wiring harnesses
- kicked all around under the dashboard and around the fuse block
- replaced the fuses for the headlights with higher (20A) ones
- unplugged and plugged all the connectors going into the fuse block
- looked at the wires going into the fuseblock and all looks fine
Any suggestions?
Do I need to remove the whole fuse block to really look at it? Are most of you guys actually replacing the whole fuse block: is that the problem?
Could it be the switch on the stem off the steering column?
How do I check and repair these things?
Thanks for your help - and, yes, I have been trying to read through all the headlight postings on this forum. What a mess!
-Mark-
mrmambo
07-02-2004, 02:44 PM
Okay - I'm a dumb-ass; the DRLs weren't coming on because I had the parking brake on - DOHHH!
So - the headlights still aren't working correctly; the driver's side is still very dim, the passenger side is dim, and passenger's high-beam doesn't work.
Advice appreciated -
-Mark-
So - the headlights still aren't working correctly; the driver's side is still very dim, the passenger side is dim, and passenger's high-beam doesn't work.
Advice appreciated -
-Mark-
dubt
07-04-2004, 06:53 PM
i only jiggled the wires connecting to the harness. In my case I realized that the heat on the wires meant the amp I was using was drawing too much power. if you haven't strained the electrical system for long periods of time over the course of a month than I wouldn't know much else to tell you. Good luck.
I myself am looking at buying a used car because I took a road trip and two hours of 85 mph caused the tranny to start leaking and burnt a hole in my cad. convertor so this metro will see an early death under 90k miles ;(
I myself am looking at buying a used car because I took a road trip and two hours of 85 mph caused the tranny to start leaking and burnt a hole in my cad. convertor so this metro will see an early death under 90k miles ;(
mtbroadhurst
01-16-2006, 10:46 PM
This fourm is a fantastic resource. I had the same problem with my 95 1.0L. Went out and gave the connector an inward push at the fuseblock and -- PRESTO -- lights work fine. I'd never in a million years have even thought to look at the connector. No doubt, I'd have dropped it off at the mechanic for a day and been given a pricey estimate for repair. I'm so glad I found this place!
carpenter_jai
01-17-2006, 02:03 AM
Did you ever post those pics GeoZuki? This is an old post, but it's obviously a common problem, that my car has not evaded.
Jai
Jai
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