B20 myths.

Well I'm just pulling this one out of my bum, but you probably won't need to resleeve for extra strength unless your going... over 10k? Does that sound right? Good R/S and walls on the B16 help, but I think it may cause premature wear on the engine :confused: I would like to know this one myself as well, maybe someone can fill us in?

But I would think you need extra cooling for a high reving engine as well.

thats what i figured. yes cooling would probley help. are the rods and crank different from the b16 to the b16b? they rev to 9k stock.

You know... why am I the one that looks for the answers... why dont you go search some? :D

are the rods and crank different from the b16 to the b16b? they rev to 9k stock.
b16 = b16 The only real differences are the compression and cam profiles. Why would you put those into a b20 anyways?

I'm using a gsr tranny on my DOHC CRVtec and it works great. Actually I have it pulled right now to replace syncros and flywheel. But it has worked great so far.

Okay iam thinkin of gettin the b20 +b18c1 head , do u guys think id have a problem wiht the sleaves??? and if so i remmber seein some one say 10k for reslevin is that ture?!?!?

10k? Yeah right! The engine isn't even worth that much!

You shouldn't have problems with the stock sleeves unless your boosting.

so what your saying is that if i resleeve it will be good as new?!?! no more problems with it ?!?!? because later on i plan to get a gen 3 turbo kkit

so what your saying is that if i resleeve it will be good as new?!?! no more problems with it ?!?!? because later on i plan to get a gen 3 turbo kkit

I did not say anything of the sort. I also have no idea the status of this 'block' so how can I answer that question? :sly:

okay here are the parts i plan to put on my B20b
WISECO IB spec 12.5:1 pistons
PROBE custom length rods
Tit. wrist pins
B16 pr3 head
CROWER titanium valvetrain
CROWER custom camshafts
CROWER oversize in/ex valves
NGK ignition wires
DC Sports header w/mod 2.5 collector
3" cat back mandrel bent exhaust w/turbo black apex canister
Fluidyne aluminum radiator
HONDATA s100 system
ITR intake manifold
RC 310 Injectors
AEBS fuel rail
GS-R S80 Trans.(open diff.)
ACT 6 puck clutch
prothane bushings
Endyn Breather kit
cold air intake
MSD external coil
SUN auto Hyperground kit
Oil Cooler/filter relocation

Should i need to resleeve it??!

If you are going to be doing some serious turbo charging, yes. A resleeve is essential relentless of its condition.

okay thank you mr 96civic

sorry to bring up an old thread but if you are going to destroke the b20b go with atleast a b18c crank. a b16 crank in a b20b will not be 1.74 r/s, itll actually be 1.84, but you will need custom rods and you lose a lot of displacement. imo the crank should be left stock, longer rods will add more reciprocating weight, and the long stroke crank will allow for good displacement. remember rpm=faster wear on the motor. there is no need to destroke the motor to rev high, as long as you upgrade the necessary components(Rods, rod bolts, bearings, maybe a resleeve, and valvetrain) it will be fine. for example the formula atlantic/toyota 4age engine can rev to 11000rpm in built form, but has a r/s of 1.58; which is the same as the B18c.

b16 = b16 The only real differences are the compression and cam profiles. Why would you put those into a b20 anyways?

no sir, you are wrong.

the B16A and B17A engines have a seperate block than all other DOHC B series engines, including the B16B. The deck heights themselves are different, thus, the b16b has a taller deck than the b16a, which means that it needs longer rods/taller pistons to achieve the same stroke.

Should i need to resleeve it??!


Yes, definatly. It would only be a matter of time before the added compression from your 12:1 pistons blow out the walls.

Ok i didnt get a chance to read this whole thing of nine pages so dont hate on me if this question already came up, but arent the B20's we put in 1997+ which means the transmissions are hydrolic, cuz i thought it was cable transmissions for the older cars and hydrolic for the newer cars, so wouldnt an integra ls(94+)tranny fit witout any special kit?

b16 mounts and linkage yes can be used note:he did say that ANY b series mounts/linkage can be used.
cost, come on even I can estimate the cost, no because I'm too lazy too look up prices i would say off the top of my head $2500 with cost of motor, cable tranny, mounts, linkage, ecu, misc parts, and replacing all things you should replace when swapping(belts, fluids, gaskets, new hoses, etc.).

Interesting idea Kris to do this thread.

I wanted to do this swap in a car other than a fourth gen. but they absolutely cannot pass ref. so decided against it, plus its difficult I hear.
Not any more difficult than a B16 swap.

Ok i didnt get a chance to read this whole thing of nine pages so dont hate on me if this question already came up, but arent the B20's we put in 1997+ which means the transmissions are hydrolic, cuz i thought it was cable transmissions for the older cars and hydrolic for the newer cars, so wouldnt an integra ls(94+)tranny fit witout any special kit?
Any B series transmission fits. Hydro, cable, it does not matter.

it can share b series parts but that does not make it a bored out b16... there is more to it than that. i found an excellent article talking about how the b20 came about and talking about its cyl sleeves and stuff I will have to find that again

terribly sorry for the extremely long delay everyone. kris brought it to my attention that I completely forgot about this. this is the webpage that i was speaking of so long ago.

http://www.big-boards.com/kw/cars/members/

terribly sorry for the extremely long delay everyone. kris brought it to my attention that I completely forgot about this. this is the webpage that i was speaking of so long ago.

http://www.big-boards.com/kw/cars/members/



:lol2: I can tell where you just came from.

Here is the link:

http://dwolsten.tripod.com/articles/jan96a.html

damn, 10 pages of myths? lol. i didnt read them, but it says ive posted in here before. hm.

I have a JDM B20B with an JDM S1 Tranny in my 91 CRX. I was just wondering if I will be able to run 13's. The B20B looks exactly like the B20Z with the air box chamber on top of the intake manifold and the knock sensor. So I'm estimating it has around 146 hp and 133 torque and the higher compression pistons. Most people say they've ran 14's with their USDM B20B (126 hp and 133 torque) with an LS Tranny. I also might get a high performance clutch, but just with my short geared tranny and JDM B20B what do you think I'll be running?

Must resist urge to put money in Beater Civic Si... *ugh* :icon16:
agree, except, dx hatch

I have a JDM B20B with an JDM S1 Tranny in my 91 CRX. I was just wondering if I will be able to run 13's. The B20B looks exactly like the B20Z with the air box chamber on top of the intake manifold and the knock sensor. So I'm estimating it has around 146 hp and 133 torque and the higher compression pistons. Most people say they've ran 14's with their USDM B20B (126 hp and 133 torque) with an LS Tranny. I also might get a high performance clutch, but just with my short geared tranny and JDM B20B what do you think I'll be running?

yes, intake/header/exhaust and cams with that tranny will bring you into the high 13's....13.9 etc. I run a 14.2 without the cams....with the low compression B20.

Shit...EG's run mid to low 14's with this motor with just I/H/E! (non vtec) (check honda-tech to verify search for B20 1/4 times)

By having a 10 lb flywheel and high performance clutch will it make a difference than the stock flywheel and clutch? If so how much of a difference will it be and is it noticeable?

By having a 10 lb flywheel and high performance clutch will it make a difference than the stock flywheel and clutch? If so how much of a difference will it be and is it noticeable?
A lighter flywheel will allow you to 1- rev quicker, and 2- lighten the mass of your rotating assembly, allowing you to put that freed up power to use.

i want a b20 so bad...

Will I be happy with a B16 Tranny b/c I heard that it's not a good idea for the B20B......but I want the most acceleration.......Will I be able to see that much of a difference since I have a B16 Tranny than if i had a long geared tranny?

Bump...

I have a few questions, but it's 2:30am and after reading these 10 pages, I need some sleep.
I'll post them up tomorrow..

AWESOME THREAD ++++ 5 ++++

Will I be happy with a B16 Tranny b/c I heard that it's not a good idea for the B20B......but I want the most acceleration.......Will I be able to see that much of a difference since I have a B16 Tranny than if i had a long geared tranny?
Whoever told you that needs some help.

The b16 trans, works awsome with the B20 motors.

Whoever told you that needs some help.

The b16 trans, works awsome with the B20 motors.

:thumbsup:
i second that!
Btw, if you get a jdm b20b that was made after 97, it's equivalent to a usdm b20z. There were never any b20z's in japan only b20b's. You have to look at the year casting on the left hand side of the head to see what year motor it is. Of course, it will also have a knock sensor if it is the 9.6:1 compression motor. That motor is beautiful, it is underrated it's actually near 160 HP.

Alright here I go..

I plan on doing the B20 swap this July while I'm at Ami's !!
Here's what my plans are.
- Ami's Welder is going to make the mounts, linkage, and wire harness
- B16 tranny
- B16 head will get installed this upcoming winter.
- Hondata S200 (will install with head swap)

Now my major question is, should i think about re sleeving the block before I swap it in ? Do I even need a resleeve ??
I plan on running a Mildly built CRVTEC, I'd like to do pistons, however this involves a resleeve doesnt it ? Would I be better off just having the OEM ones cleaned up ?

What would be the best option for the head?
I've heard the B16 allows more airflow, if I plan to do cams in the future will the unsleeved block take the challenge ?

Anyways, I'm sure I'll think of more, as the night progresses.

you don't have to resleeve the block...but that is ALWAYS good for safe insurance. You can rev the crvtec w/ out worry to 7k daily. Many people take it to 8k as well. The truth is, not all motors are created equal. It's been proven that not all B20 motors are equal as well. Some B20's are more prone to have the sleeves crack then others. There's no way to tell. Adding a vtec head to the b20 block doesn't make it any less reliable if done right. the b18/b20 rods and rod bolts are weak and prone to break if reved beyond 7k.
Some people don't have trouble with it at all and have run it past 8k for years without aftermarket pistons or rods, etc.
But, it will hold up for sure if you don't rev it past 7k too much without the rebuild...after that, it's all up to you to find out what kind of motor you have...there's just no way to tell.

btw, if your car is multi point already, you can just use your stock harness to run the motor. also, you will need a 90-91 integra ecu and distributor to run it unless youre converting to obd1. if you have the b20b with the tall intake manifold, you will need to switch it to a 90-01 integra manifold. But, the 94+ manifolds are better...just plug the map sensor into the one on the throttle body instead if you use this manifold...same thing.
As for the exhaust manifold, a 90-93 integra manifodl bolts right up to the stock crx exhaust piping...but is horrible for performance. You're goint to want to get a 4-1 header or at least a 4-2-1 and make sure it has the 2.5 inch outlet. You'll notice great gains if you make your whole exhaust 2.5 inches including the catalytic converter, mandrel bent exhaust piping and muffler. Keep it all the same size, don't mix and match sizes.

why would you make mounts and a linkage?
just order the mounts from azracemachine.com and the linkage as well.
don't risk having welded mounts brake on you. Also the linkage is very tricky to make because you have to use half of the civic/crx one and half of a 90-93 integra one and measure it out PERFECTLY...pain in the arse. Just buy the aftermarket stuff. The mounts are 280 and the linkage is 140.

What about bearings? Aftermarket (ACL) okay, or should I use OE Honda?

What about bearings? Aftermarket (ACL) okay, or should I use OE Honda?
wheel bearings?

oops my bad...lol acl...rod bearings?
i'd say oem.

YA. B20 wheel bearings. :confused:

HAHA.. Anyway, I'm going to be rebuilding my B20B for the VTEC head and I want it to last so I want to do it right.

ya my bad.
Wow, i must have been gone for a long time...
since when did you have a B20?
It's not in the car is it...you still have the b16 right?

is your b20b the jdm one? Is it the high comp or low comp motor? (does it have a knock sensor)

Its the USDM B20B, I think B4?

Yes, I still have the B16 in my car, I just picked up a treat for it. ;)
Can't beat $100 for a CRV block!!

I’m sorry, but this is kind of off the subject, but I need some help bad. You see I have a b20b in a 91 CRX, but I don't know what wiring harness and distributor I should use. I know that the b20b is a obd2 engine, but I heard that instead of getting a obd2 wiring harness and distributor. I should get a obd1 wiring harness and distributor which would match my car. So should I stick with obd2 and just use a conversion harness or should I use the obd1 wiring harness with distributor? Oh yeah, how can a obd1 distributor and wiring harness work with a obd2 engine? Thanks a lot

and the dead walk again

Does any body in here know what wiring harness and distributor I should use with a B20B going into a 91 CRX?

ok so whats the difference between a b20 block compared to a bored out b18 block. i would assume if there are any differences that the would be minimal right?

lol.....no crx is obd1 sorry hurt your fealings....they make a kit at rywire.com ...and dont ever go obd2....obd1 is what want...ask bamba, he done all this i still collecting my parts for swap taking time sense i doing lots of body work on my rex

btw, if your car is multi point already, you can just use your stock harness to run the motor. also, you will need a 90-91 integra ecu and distributor to run it unless youre converting to obd1. if you have the b20b with the tall intake manifold, you will need to switch it to a 90-01 integra manifold. But, the 94+ manifolds are better...just plug the map sensor into the one on the throttle body instead if you use this manifold...same thing.
As for the exhaust manifold, a 90-93 integra manifodl bolts right up to the stock crx exhaust piping...but is horrible for performance. You're goint to want to get a 4-1 header or at least a 4-2-1 and make sure it has the 2.5 inch outlet. You'll notice great gains if you make your whole exhaust 2.5 inches including the catalytic converter, mandrel bent exhaust piping and muffler. Keep it all the same size, don't mix and match sizes.

why would you make mounts and a linkage?
just order the mounts from azracemachine.com and the linkage as well.
don't risk having welded mounts brake on you. Also the linkage is very tricky to make because you have to use half of the civic/crx one and half of a 90-93 integra one and measure it out PERFECTLY...pain in the arse. Just buy the aftermarket stuff. The mounts are 280 and the linkage is 140.

So how do I modify my stock CRX SI harness so that it fits the B20B? By taking the plugs from a obd1 or obd2 harness and rewire it to the harness so that it plugs up on certain plugs?

RYWIRE.COM......it will telly uo how to rewire for obd1 and they sell the kit for 200 bucks with everything you need to convert from obd-0 to obd-1...being that you dont know what your doing i sugest get that setup from...i know what i doing and i even got the kit make it easier on myself...

I’m sorry, but this is kind of off the subject, but I need some help bad. You see I have a b20b in a 91 CRX, but I don't know what wiring harness and distributor I should use. I know that the b20b is a obd2 engine, but I heard that instead of getting a obd2 wiring harness and distributor. I should get a obd1 wiring harness and distributor which would match my car. So should I stick with obd2 and just use a conversion harness or should I use the obd1 wiring harness with distributor? Oh yeah, how can a obd1 distributor and wiring harness work with a obd2 engine? Thanks a lot

for ease of installation, just use a 90-91 integra ecu (code: PR4) and a 90-91 integra distributor (code: TD-23U). Doing that will allow you to run a B20 without doing any wiring. Unless, of course your car is a dx and has to be wired to mpfi first. Now, if you don't know what mpfi is, then i suggest you forget the B20 swap right now and figure out what that is first.

So how do I modify my stock CRX SI harness so that it fits the B20B? By taking the plugs from a obd1 or obd2 harness and rewire it to the harness so that it plugs up on certain plugs?

you can either use 90-91 integra injectors, or cut off any 92+ honda/acura (any model) injector plugs and solder them onto your stock si harness.
BTW, your stock si harness will completely bolt up to a B20 provided that you use the distributor and ecu from a 90-91 integra.
The only plug that i can think of that doesn't match up is the fan relay plug on the back of the block. On the newer motors it is on the thermostat...this is an easy fix. Just lengthen the wires and switch it to the different shaped plug.
Be sure to do this, or else your ecu will never be able to tell when to turn your fan on...bad idea.

you can either use 90-91 integra injectors, or cut off any 92+ honda/acura (any model) injector plugs and solder them onto your stock si harness.
BTW, your stock si harness will completely bolt up to a B20 provided that you use the distributor and ecu from a 90-91 integra.
The only plug that i can think of that doesn't match up is the fan relay plug on the back of the block. On the newer motors it is on the thermostat...this is an easy fix. Just lengthen the wires and switch it to the different shaped plug.
Be sure to do this, or else your ecu will never be able to tell when to turn your fan on...bad idea.

I know that the B18B1 intake manifold is better than the B18A1, but is it better than the JDM B20B (low rise like the LS) intake manifold? At first I heard it wasn't, but then I heard it was. I'm not sure because the B20B manifold has a bigger throttle body and ports. So how could you explain the LS manifold being better than this?

so you take the bottom end of a b20 and put a vtec head or something?

Let's get technical for a second here. VTEC is controlled by a few things, but oil pressure is one.

My question is, with a B20 VTEC, can you use the B20 oil pump, or do you need to use a B18C oil pump for the correct pressure/volume (are they the same?)?

JOHN

Let's get technical for a second here. VTEC is controlled by a few things, but oil pressure is one.

My question is, with a B20 VTEC, can you use the B20 oil pump, or do you need to use a B18C oil pump for the correct pressure/volume (are they the same?)?

JOHN

I'm not sure if you could use the B20 oil pump with a CRVTEC set up, but I would use the B18C oil pump just to be on the safe side

2 of my firnds that have b20vtec motors in their car have not needed to change their oil pump, since the JDM motors they got had Vtec Oil pumps on it already... Weird I know... but if you get a USDM one just pickup a OBD2 P72 Vtec Oil pump, you can pick those up for 100$ new off ebay.

Quick question, I've got a b20b with a b16a2 head and every tank im not getting that many kms. Im averaging about 320-400kms MAX. Is this normal? header and intake for mods but everything else stock. Anyone have a set up similar to mine that want to tell me how much they gettin??!

i have a 87 crx witha b16 swap and lost #3 cylinder somehow....

and have a chance to get my friends B20 from his prelude
it should drop right in (technically) right

Yeah, it should.

wow ya'll really brought this back from the dead.
yeah it should drop right in.
correct me if im wrong, but isn't the only difference between a b20 and the
b18, the bore size?
so you really shouldn't have clearance problems. then you could use ur b16 head and go b20/vtec.
wow that would be a huge sleeper.

definatly b20 vtec that would pretty nice

Come on people :disappoin ...The b20 from an older prelude is completely different from the b20 of a crv, it's not like the other b-series engines. You can't swap parts over from your b16 (like the head), it doesn't work like that. If you want to keep the same mounts, transmission, etc; then you'll need a different B-series (another b16a, a b18c, a b18a/b, or a crv b20).

Yes, the only major difference between the B18b and the crv B20 is the bore (81mm to 84mm), obviously the pistons are different and most of the heads are a little different as well (there are a few variations).

wow ya'll really brought this back from the dead.
yeah it should drop right in.
correct me if im wrong, but isn't the only difference between a b20 and the
b18, the bore size?
so you really shouldn't have clearance problems. then you could use ur b16 head and go b20/vtec.
wow that would be a huge sleeper.

Do NOT answer a question if you are not <b><u>100%</u></b> sure you know the correct answer. This is how misinformation and retarded honda owners come to be.

B20B/Z is the ONLY B20 you can put a vtec head on and put in your vehicle.