Frustrated

Yo. I'm new to this forum. I've been searching on the net for help. I have a 93 Mustang 5.0. The problem is it will not start. The lights work, the dome light, radio, etc. But it wont fire. :eek7: It turns over but it wont fire. I had the TGI module tested, that wasnt it. I changed the plugs and the spark plug wires, still no go. I don't understand. Someone told me it may be my alternator but I don't think that is it. Also when I put a different battery in it, it started. But then it would stall out. I started it again and drove it for a minute and it seemed like it was going to stall out again. It wouldn't go past 40. :screwy: I then checked the spark again and I'm getting plenty. Please help. :banghead: Thank you.

Stangs own.

so let me get this right..

won't start
put in a new battery and it starts but stalls
and u changed plugs, wires, ect?

Have you pulled any codes out of the computer yet?

lil peice of advice. strip the computer and all of that fuel injected crap. go with a carb. just kiddin, if you dont wanna end up strippin the thing to fix the prob then give a lil more info. have you checked the timing? maybe it jumped. when did the car start doin this? where you hot rodding when it started? does the car smoke or miss? lemme know i may be able to help you narrow down your search.

I bet it's your alternator too!!!! It take 2 seconds to pull it out. Go have it tested for free couldn't hurt!

Well, It did burn rich for a while. Black smoke was coming out of the exhaust before it quit starting. The idle seemed high. It would idle high for a minute then it would seem like it would wanna stall out on me. I don't know how to get any codes from the computer, so no I don't have any. I changed the spark plugs and the wires. Checked the TFI module. Checked the distributor cap. Made sure there was no water in there, etc. Checked the air filter. Fuel pump is on. Can hear it turn on when I turn the key on. Checked the spark, and it gets plenty of spark. I didn't hot rod it when it was running. When I bought it, it did have a gas leak. But I fixed it. Cut the hose, put a new hose on there and clamped it. No leak now. The guy I bought it off of put big ass tires on the rear. Haven't had the money to put the lo-profile tires on it yet. That probably throws the computer off a little bit. Right? Anyways thats all I the information I can give you so far.
Thanks.

Well the tires don't really make a difference the only thing they may do is throw your speedo off a little but I too had the same problem after I changed intakes and it was a combination of two things 1)the engine coolant temp sensor for some reason this thing made the car read really cold and it just flooded out and quit and after I fixed that I had a problem with the throttle positioning sensor for some reason this thing all of a sudden came loose and it would idle up high and just die and then it wouldn't start back again like yours and if it did start it wouldn't last long the throttle positioning sensor is on top of the throttle body and it has to be perfect it has to be reading something like .06-1.0 volts and somehow mine moved and to get it back right I had to extend the holes and adjust it I hope this helps.

Someone on another forum told me it may be my o2 sensors along with the TPS. Any thoughts?

That's why you need to pull codes. I doubt it's the TPS unless you messed with it. There is a self test connector on the drives side of the engine bay, near the fire wall. It kinda looks like a what an outline of a house would look like. I'll get a picture of what it looks like and what wires need to be jump for you after. Then you can use your check engine light to determine what codes your computer is throwing.

Well I heard that a lot of TPS go out in mustangs, specially in my year. But I don't kno if that's true or not. Someone could just be blowing smoke. Anyways if you did do that, that would help me emmensly. I didn't mess with the TPS. Maybe a previous owner had. Couldn't tell you.

OK here it is. Like the picture says, you don't have to use a multi-meter, because the cars check engine light will work just fine. Use a paper clip or jumper wire as shown, to make the connection. Then turn the car on the accessory position. The check engine like will start to flash. It should start with a flash, a short pause, then another flash. Or code 11, which means OK, and if there are any other codes they will follow, using the same method. The whole sequence will end with a code 11 again to signify end of codes. Hope this helps some.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=500/6784self_test_connector.jpg