Lesson learned from rotor swap and bearing pack today
Kennedy
12-16-2001, 12:19 AM
Well, the Powerstop rotors are on and the bearings are clean and re-greased. At the end of the day: New rotors, new pads, and fresh grease.
A few lessons learned:
First the torque specs on the rotor mounting bolts is 36-51 ft-lbs... I wasn't sure so I called Pohanka Nissan in Fredericksburg, the service manager came back with 75 ft-lbs. Common sense wasn't with me, so I promptly set the torque wrench and went to tightening... Wouldn't you know it, SNAP... FUCK!
Had to pull everything apart again to work what was left of the bolt out of the brand new GODDAMN rotor. While trying to pull the bearing lock nut, one of the little bity screws stripped too! FUUUCCCK!
I am too heavy handed! Finally got it out with an impact screwdriver.
Here's a good procedure fi you ever go down this road:
- Lift front
- Remove wheels
- Grab a bucket and apply a liber coat of brake parts cleaner to calipers and such.
- Insert screwdriver into caliper between rotor slots to lock rotor in place.
- Loosen all hub bolts and rotor mount bolts
- Remove hub cover
- Remove snapring
- Remove hub
- Remove little stupid phillips screws that locks the bearing locknut in place and bearing locking plate
- Remove bearing locknut with tool coolerman found.
- Remove screwdriver from rotor...
- Remove caliper mounting bolts... Nissan Gorilla was staffed on this part of the assembly line. Grab a breaker bar.
- Remove caliper and suspend on upper A arm via zip tie.
- Remove brake pads, apply more cleaner, then go ahead and put your new brake pads in. Be sure to apply no squeal to the back of the pads.
- Pull rotor and hub body... collect up front bearings.
- Tap rotor free of hub body.
- Pull rear grease seal and remove rear bearing
- Off to the solvent tanks!
Dry it off and put it back together
Also take the time to dissamble, clean, and re grease your hubs. It takes all of 5 minutes.
Reverse to put back together.
Everything is on, but I am now missing these two bolts. I hope no damage is rendered to the rotor while I'm waiting on the parts to come in.
So, to summarize:
- Bearing locknut tool coolerman posted info on a few months ago works well. Bearing packer works great too.
- Don't overtorque!, Don't ask Pohanka Nissan service for torque specs either. Invest in a service manual... or download the manual off xterraparts.com ;) ( i know... It's gone now)
If you can get access to a shop, highly recommended. The problems I experienced today were overcome because of the expertise and tools available. I would have been at a loss if I tried this at home.
I'll update on the performance of the rotors after they burn in the first 300 miles.
Good luck
A few lessons learned:
First the torque specs on the rotor mounting bolts is 36-51 ft-lbs... I wasn't sure so I called Pohanka Nissan in Fredericksburg, the service manager came back with 75 ft-lbs. Common sense wasn't with me, so I promptly set the torque wrench and went to tightening... Wouldn't you know it, SNAP... FUCK!
Had to pull everything apart again to work what was left of the bolt out of the brand new GODDAMN rotor. While trying to pull the bearing lock nut, one of the little bity screws stripped too! FUUUCCCK!
I am too heavy handed! Finally got it out with an impact screwdriver.
Here's a good procedure fi you ever go down this road:
- Lift front
- Remove wheels
- Grab a bucket and apply a liber coat of brake parts cleaner to calipers and such.
- Insert screwdriver into caliper between rotor slots to lock rotor in place.
- Loosen all hub bolts and rotor mount bolts
- Remove hub cover
- Remove snapring
- Remove hub
- Remove little stupid phillips screws that locks the bearing locknut in place and bearing locking plate
- Remove bearing locknut with tool coolerman found.
- Remove screwdriver from rotor...
- Remove caliper mounting bolts... Nissan Gorilla was staffed on this part of the assembly line. Grab a breaker bar.
- Remove caliper and suspend on upper A arm via zip tie.
- Remove brake pads, apply more cleaner, then go ahead and put your new brake pads in. Be sure to apply no squeal to the back of the pads.
- Pull rotor and hub body... collect up front bearings.
- Tap rotor free of hub body.
- Pull rear grease seal and remove rear bearing
- Off to the solvent tanks!
Dry it off and put it back together
Also take the time to dissamble, clean, and re grease your hubs. It takes all of 5 minutes.
Reverse to put back together.
Everything is on, but I am now missing these two bolts. I hope no damage is rendered to the rotor while I'm waiting on the parts to come in.
So, to summarize:
- Bearing locknut tool coolerman posted info on a few months ago works well. Bearing packer works great too.
- Don't overtorque!, Don't ask Pohanka Nissan service for torque specs either. Invest in a service manual... or download the manual off xterraparts.com ;) ( i know... It's gone now)
If you can get access to a shop, highly recommended. The problems I experienced today were overcome because of the expertise and tools available. I would have been at a loss if I tried this at home.
I'll update on the performance of the rotors after they burn in the first 300 miles.
Good luck
Goliath the X
12-16-2001, 05:55 PM
Rob stripped that same little screw while repacking his bearings today. Luckly Mike (NOR) had some experience at extracting stipped screws. He was able to drill the screw and use a screw extractor to remove it. Rob was able to find some replacement screws at Lowes.
The thread size and pitch will be posted on the MAXC website soon. A page is going to be set up for common bolts and torque settings.
The thread size and pitch will be posted on the MAXC website soon. A page is going to be set up for common bolts and torque settings.
Kennedy
12-16-2001, 06:32 PM
I need to get to Lowes! Anybody have any idea what the thread pitch is?
I would replace both of them with either a flathead or hex bolt to prevent stripping again. Just don't overtighten and strip the bearing locknut.
BTW, those of you with WARN hubs.
Do you have some sort of gasket that goes between the hub body and hub cylinder (in other words does the set come with two sets of gaskets.)Mine only came with the outer gasket that goes between the Warn hub cylinder and the lock.
I saw the set on ebay a few days ago and I noticed they had some gaskets.
Hmm...
I would replace both of them with either a flathead or hex bolt to prevent stripping again. Just don't overtighten and strip the bearing locknut.
BTW, those of you with WARN hubs.
Do you have some sort of gasket that goes between the hub body and hub cylinder (in other words does the set come with two sets of gaskets.)Mine only came with the outer gasket that goes between the Warn hub cylinder and the lock.
I saw the set on ebay a few days ago and I noticed they had some gaskets.
Hmm...
OffroadX
12-16-2001, 08:54 PM
David,
Are you sure it was Lowes? The closest one to Columbia is a good 30+ minutes away in Glen Burnie. There's a Home Depot <10 minutes away though.
Nice meeting you today,
Brent
Are you sure it was Lowes? The closest one to Columbia is a good 30+ minutes away in Glen Burnie. There's a Home Depot <10 minutes away though.
Nice meeting you today,
Brent
xoc
12-16-2001, 08:55 PM
You should have an o-ring and a paper gasket for the Warn hubs (one of each per hub). The o-ring fits in the groove on the wheel side of the hub.
Kennedy
12-16-2001, 10:35 PM
Ooops
Kennedy
12-16-2001, 10:38 PM
See here...
This pic shows a gasket...
Anyone else get the gasket?
This pic shows a gasket...
Anyone else get the gasket?
xoc
12-16-2001, 11:12 PM
Mine have a gasket between the cap and hub body, and an o-ring between the hub body and wheel.
FSRBIKER
12-17-2001, 10:32 AM
All the hubs i have in stock have the gaskets.
Goliath the X
12-17-2001, 06:19 PM
Originally posted by OffroadX
David,
Are you sure it was Lowes? The closest one to Columbia is a good 30+ minutes away in Glen Burnie. There's a Home Depot <10 minutes away though.
Nice meeting you today,
Brent
:bloated: Ummmmm, maybe Home Depot.... they were gone for a long time though.
Originally posted by Kennedy
I need to get to Lowes! Anybody have any idea what the thread pitch is?
I'll check with Rob and post the measurements of the bolt used to replace the stipped one.
David,
Are you sure it was Lowes? The closest one to Columbia is a good 30+ minutes away in Glen Burnie. There's a Home Depot <10 minutes away though.
Nice meeting you today,
Brent
:bloated: Ummmmm, maybe Home Depot.... they were gone for a long time though.
Originally posted by Kennedy
I need to get to Lowes! Anybody have any idea what the thread pitch is?
I'll check with Rob and post the measurements of the bolt used to replace the stipped one.
Schludwiller
12-17-2001, 08:51 PM
I don't know about your Home Depot, but Lowes had the best selection of grade 8 bolts in my area. I'll go there from now on.
OffroadX
12-17-2001, 09:06 PM
Indeed, Lowes kicks Home Depot's ass when it comes to hardware. I just wish they would open one closer to me. For over a year we were mega-store starved in Columbia after the Hechinger's went under. They were a local semi-mega outfit but they couldn't compete with HD and Lowes. Finally HD moved into their old building last year and it's been decent since then. Lowes is still pretty thin around this area though :(
Brent
Brent
rrdstarr
12-17-2001, 11:24 PM
Schlud, you ought to try Tacoma Screw for quality bolts and fasteners. They are the only place I buy hardware for the truck.
Schludwiller
12-18-2001, 12:41 AM
Originally posted by rrdstarr
Schlud, you ought to try Tacoma Screw for quality bolts and fasteners. They are the only place I buy hardware for the truck.
Funny you should say that. I drove by a/the Tacoma Screw while at the Museum of Flight on Sunday. Kind'of chuckled at the name. I'll check 'em out. Lowes is just nearby for me.
Schlud, you ought to try Tacoma Screw for quality bolts and fasteners. They are the only place I buy hardware for the truck.
Funny you should say that. I drove by a/the Tacoma Screw while at the Museum of Flight on Sunday. Kind'of chuckled at the name. I'll check 'em out. Lowes is just nearby for me.
Goliath the X
12-18-2001, 12:19 PM
Here are the specs on those little screws, aleast these worked for replacements.
(This is how it is written on the packaging:
> Machine screw
> Pan- Phillips
> 4mm x 6 mm
> Steel / Zinc Plated
>
> Hope that helps
> Oh yeah, I got them at Home Depot.
> rob.
(This is how it is written on the packaging:
> Machine screw
> Pan- Phillips
> 4mm x 6 mm
> Steel / Zinc Plated
>
> Hope that helps
> Oh yeah, I got them at Home Depot.
> rob.
rrdstarr
12-18-2001, 12:41 PM
I have free passes for the Museum of Flight! Being and X-Boeing employee and all.......
Schludwiller
12-18-2001, 01:32 PM
Originally posted by rrdstarr
I have free passes for the Museum of Flight! Being and X-Boeing employee and all.......
I get in free too. :D
I have free passes for the Museum of Flight! Being and X-Boeing employee and all.......
I get in free too. :D
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