another problem with my 89 daytona

i just replaced the oil pan, becuase i bottumed the car out and made a nice creater in the other oil pan.. But something just started a few miles after i tested it. The engine will run fine for a specific time, then it starts sputtering, shaking, emitting horrible fumes from muffler, and eating a ton of gas. also, when i accelerate, then let off the gas the car engine brakes violently.

I think its missfiring becuase of weak ignition, i replaced the ignition wires, distributor cap and rotor with Mopar parts as is stock with the engine, and nothing. Also all the spark plugs are carbon tracked, as well as the new ones.. Now im thinking it might be oil related.. i did fill it a small amounjt over the fill line, and it hasnt burned any oil up yet.. so im gonna try draining a quart out than adding a bit under a quart and see if that works..

wtf is goin on? Thanx for the help

lowering the oil did nothing..

If i let it sit for a while and cool down then start it up again.. it runs great.. but about 10 or 15 min of driving the sputering starts up again...

can anybody help me?

I had this problem with a caravan! We ended up blowing the newly rebuilt engine 'cuz we didn't figure it out in time. In the oil pan, theres like a little splash shield that goes right under the sump. For some reason, Chrysler decided to glue it in there instead of spot welding it. If the oil pan has been off the car for a whiel, the glue deterierates and brakes down, thus running glue through your engine. It totally sucks trying to fix this. Everything needs to be taken appart and dunked in a solvent tank. It might be easier doing a full rebuild. Next time you have the pan off, pull the shield out, get ALL the glue off, and spot weld it in place. Hope you caught it in time!!!

but the oil pan hasnt been off the car at all.. we just replaced it the same day we bought the new oil pan. how does that explain why it works great the first 15 minutes you turn it on. Sry to question so much but if what you say is true.. i dont have the down time or cash flow to rebuild the engine or to take it apart and dump it... its 20 degrees out here and i dont have a garage.. so im kinda hopeing that isnt the problem..

i should have mentioned this before... when i replaced the oil pan, we messed up the gaskets twice and ended up spewing oil all over the car, however, the car was still running perfect.. it wasnt till the day we fixed the leaks that it started sputtering like this..

are you talking about a guard that goes inside the pan? or just around the edges? i never saw a splash guard or anything of that nature in the pan before i installed it..

thanx for response..

The oil pan was brand new?! I assumed you bought one from an auto wrecker. Anyway, the symptoms you describe would also relate to problems you had befor...ie, if the power module is malfunctioning it will cause your car to misfire. It could be purely coincidental that the problems occured at the same time as the pan swap. On the same hand, that might not be the problem at all. The best thing to do, I think, is to purchase a new power module from napa, put it in, and see how your car runs... If it runs fine after that, problem solved, if not, then return it. Tell them it was never installed in the first place... there kind of stingy on their electronics. As far as the carbon on the plugs... the 2.2 and the 2.5 are notorious for carbon buildup...and can also be caused by misfiring and detonation. Or, it could be a carbon buildup causing detonation. As you can see, it can be any number of things, but I'd start with the power module, as that is the simplist fix. Hope this helps a bit.

well, that explains my my old spark plugs were a bit carbon tracked... but the new ones were coated.. so that's from the problem, im pretty sure.. On the off chance that its not the power module,can you think of anything else that would cause the sputtering?

ohh.. how come it works great the first 15 minutes? that just baffles me..

thanx for the help! :)

sounds like the ignition is breakin down from heat. On some older vehicles, my dad told me that the ignition can break down either from the timing being off slightly or the electronics in the distributor. other than that that all I could think of. Hope the module fixes it!

what parts in the ignition? so far i have replaced the distributor, the hall effect pickup, distributor cap/rotor, spark plugs and spark plug wires twice, and i have adjusted the ignition timing recently to 12 degrees BTDC as is stock.

i wasnt very clear with the symptoms, so im gonna try and explain the problems again... this time without telling everyone what i was doing before the problem :)

the car sputters when it idles, Not while its driving. My gas milege has almost doubled.. and theres a large amount of exuast fumes comming out of the muffler. The spark plugs always become carbon tracked no matter how many times I replaced them... It used to run perfect the first few minutes you drive it, but now it starts no matter what. The gas pettle falls to the floor pretty easily.

it seems more like an EFI problem than an ignition problems..
almost like the throttle body is letting in too much fuel...

hope this helps give you guys something better to work with.. thanx for help so far..

i have replaced pretty much the entire ignition system with new parts, plus fuel filter, oil filter and air filter..

there are no electronics in the distributor... there in the power module, Anyway... what colors the exaust? is it black, blue, white or clear?
Still sounds like the O2 sensor. It determines how rich the fuel mixture is! Unbolt it and give it a shake, if it rattles, then thats deffinatley the problem. If the pedal falls to the floor easily, that, I would think would be caused by a bad spring on the pedal itself. The carbon tracked spark plugs can also be caused by extremely rich air/fuel mixtures. all of this is controlled by the o2 sensor, wich you can see bolted in the exaust manifold. Give that a whirl... If thats not it, then I'm out of ideas!

well sounds like you pretty much covered everything. ?? Would have to look at it to help any more....

it aint power module.. i bought one from advance auto parts, installed it and problem persisted... thank god... that thing was not cheap..

the exhuast alternates in color... when first turning it on cold it becomes white... then id say its about clear to black when driving..

i replaced the o2 sensor about 15k miles ago.. but i could always have a look at it.. the car was spewing oil all over the exhuast at one time... the sensor might have been damaged becuase of it...

im gonna go check out o2 sensor.. thanx for tip shelby

can you think of anything on the throttle body that would cuase a rich mixture?

thanx for help guys

Success! It was infact the O2 sensor causing the problem, picked up a brand new one, and all better :) Although getting the old one out was a true test of any mechanic.. or a true test of how stupid a human being can be... the friggin thing was crossthreaded, and he still managed to screw it in all the way. LOL