brakes

i need new brakes/rotors for my teg. Any suggestions?

Brembo Blanks and AEM pads OR Carbotech pads.

Brembo Grant Turismo Big Brake kit up front and some slotted and dimpled rotors in the rear. EBC Greestuff or Redstuff pads depending on the application

Brembo Grant Turismo Big Brake kit up front and some slotted and dimpled rotors in the rear. EBC Greestuff or Redstuff pads depending on the application


That's a bit much brake for street driving. Definitely not a bad kit, but I don't think it's what he's looking for, nor willing to spend.

I'd suggest either some PowerSlot rotors, or Brembo blank rotors, and AEM pads like CivicSiRacer suggested. I have the PowerSlots and AEM pads on my Civic coupe, and I'm quite pleased with them.

alright, thanks for the info. Yeah, the GT brakes are a BIT overkill for me and my budget. I think i'm going to go with the powerslots and the aem pads. Thanks again.

Well ya didn't post what you needed the brakes for so I just went with my dream. Although I have heard that the cross-drilled rotors have a tendancy to crack. especially with a lot of temp changes. Have you heard the same is there any validity to that? and are "dimpled" or "blind drilled" (like cross dilling that doesn't go all the way through) suffer the same problem?

DoubleTap

The GT brakes all the way around would be sweet, if you needed them. Power slots & Aem pads should be a nice choice.
Ture cross-drilled rotors suffer from structural weakness. Drilled rotors are only really needed if the normal rotors begin to glow. When they glow a gas builds preventing the pad to fully contact the rotor surface. Drilled rotors allow this gas to escape while cooling. If the car is driven on the street, there in no way your going to boil the binders. Slotted/dimpled rotors will allow some cooling and gas to escape with out fully decreasing the strengthe like drilled. Slotted, dimpled, or slotted/dimpled is the most you should ever need for street driving.
The are also cast rotors with holes that are stronger than cross-drilled, but again not needed for the street.

Dimpled rotors:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=500/35564close-up_front_brake.JPG

Brembo Blanks and AEM pads

:evillol: :evillol: :evillol:
like that very old commercial, that i can't remember who did it, I can stop on a dime. :icon16:

Well ya didn't post what you needed the brakes for so I just went with my dream. Although I have heard that the cross-drilled rotors have a tendancy to crack. especially with a lot of temp changes. Have you heard the same is there any validity to that? and are "dimpled" or "blind drilled" (like cross dilling that doesn't go all the way through) suffer the same problem?

DoubleTap

Most people will not take their car's brakes to that extreme enough to crack them. You have to be doing some serious mountain road driving or track days. But IMHO cross drilled and slotted rotors are a waste. My stopping power increased significantly going from slotted/cross drilled to brembo blanks, my thinking is you need more surface area to stop better so taking surface area away by cross drilling and slotting just increases stopping distances.

civicsiracer, how much would u pay for brembo blanks? on group buy center, i see that front rotors for my integra are about $29 plus shipping per rotor, good deal? im guessing its about $35 a rotor

I paid $29.95 each for Brembo blanks from Summit Racing- 91 Civic Si

Most people will not take their car's brakes to that extreme enough to crack them. You have to be doing some serious mountain road driving or track days.

I'll bet I could. ;)

In any event, I auto-X with my PowerSlot rotors, and AEM pad combo, and haven't had a problem yet, or any hint of fad with that setup if that counts for anything. ;) Never had a problem with them driving canyon passes either.

just odered some front brembo blanks for about $72 after shipping, hope that stops the squeaking and dragging feeling my car gets sometimes.. i also have russel stainless lines, changing rotors and lines is a completely bolt-on ordeal correct? ive kinda watched other people work on brakes, but still never had hands on myself. still waiting for a cheap helms manual on ebay..

quick side question, just got the brembo blanks today, and on the box it said never to use used pads on the new rotor. i just replaced the pads with some axxis metal masters less than 3-4k miles ago, should be ok to just use those on the new rotors right? or will it really be that bad

You really should use new pads w/ new rotors, but since only low mileage on the pads I would inspect them very closely. Any pad thats not perfectly flat would get replaced, basically end up replacing all the pads since you don't want 1 new & 3 old pads up front or whatever the situation may be.

Depends on the car, some rotors float, bolted on, screwed on, or pressed on. Pressed is the ones that suck ass.

When was the last time your brakes/calipers were service(inspect,clean,adjust*,lube)? That could be causing problems.

http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/images/91-19-6.jpg - shows all parts to be lubed - don't forget the back of pads, shims, & retainers. Don't use grease on the pads,retainers, shims, there is specfic stuff for this at the parts stores or you can get molykote from Honda for $125 a jar.

alright, i went with the brembo slotted and aem pads. Still haven't gotten the pads. Now i need a walkthrough to do this....any help=very nice.

I've done pads before, just not rotors and need help on bleeding and torquing.

alright, i went with the brembo slotted and aem pads. Still haven't gotten the pads. Now i need a walkthrough to do this....any help=very nice.

I've done pads before, just not rotors and need help on bleeding and torquing.

Unless you are replacing the brake fluid, bleeding of the lines and calipers doesn't need to be done. Just unbolt the caliper from the mounts that hold it on (2 bolts for this) and then take off the rotor. It's pretty cut and dry for the most part on how to change out rotors.

alright, makes sense. But on the box that came with the rotors, it said i had to torque the bolts in. Is this necessary? Or can I just put them in semi-tight (b/c the heat is supposed to make it tight from what i've heard)?

I apprecitate your help SilverY2KCivic :)

You should torque them & the wheel lugs to prevent premature rotor warpage.

Another side question. Are the Brembo blanks the same as the Brembo O.E. replacement discs?

Another side question. Are the Brembo blanks the same as the Brembo O.E. replacement discs?

Yes