Bolt On Mods To Beat A 5.0 Mustange GT?

I already have header/exughst/intake/act racing clutch...what are some other things i could do without ripping out the engine that could give me some HP..i am goin got the track in spring and i need some ideas of things i can put in so to beat this mustange gt....

Thanks

That should be pleanty. Stang 5.0's are hunks of sh#t

That should be pleanty. Stang 5.0's are hunks of sh#t

Funny.. most 5.0s I have encountered will hand my little prelude hoopter ass to me.

Bolt ons? Turbocharger, of course.

5.0's are quick my dad had one a while back and it could beat my prelude vtec that has racing clutch,header,cold air intake, cat back, cam gears, and pullys, and the 5.0 we had was stock but it would be a close one i think

well i have over the winter to work on my car, so if anything you guys could help me with would be great, i really need to show this mustange ass whos boss...so that would be great..thanks

Maybe a good computer chip that would be nice don't know how much it would add but something.

Also i have a friend that has a mustange stock and i beat it and i only have a SI below are mods. But he said he had bent rods or something so.....

Okay guys, this is big...i am thinking about a cam, i only have money for one...so what is involved in installing one cam...into my 95 vtec lude? I need to know what i am getting into before i do it...so any experienced dudes want to tell me that would be great...i need to see this mustange in my rear view merrior!!!
thanks

5.0's are quick my dad had one a while back and it could beat my prelude vtec that has racing clutch,header,cold air intake, cat back, cam gears, and pullys, and the 5.0 we had was stock but it would be a close one i think


you didnt know how to race then. the lude vtec has a faster stock 1/4 mile time than a GT 5.0. the 95 lude gets 15.1, the GT gets 15.2. a skilled driver in a full quarter mile will take a GT, in stock versus stock. my biggest tip for beating that hunk of shit is to learn how to race. if you can do that, your mods should be even more of an advantage.






Okay guys, this is big...i am thinking about a cam, i only have money for one...so what is involved in installing one cam...into my 95 vtec lude? I need to know what i am getting into before i do it...so any experienced dudes want to tell me that would be great...i need to see this mustange in my rear view merrior!!!
thanks


Your car has two cams. Usually you don't install just an intake or just an exhaust cam. I don't even know if you can buy them seperate in aftermarket form. I'm assuming you have...500$? I know it sounds dumb, but get nitrous oxide if your car can take it. If all you wanna do is waste a Ford in a straight line, thats all it's gonna take. A 40 or 60 dry shot should work nicely. Good luck.

Yes i know what you mean, i am really trying to stay away from that NOS, so if it comes down to it then i may go for it, but is there anything you can think of that will keep me N/A, and that will give me some hp without rebuilding my head too much..i am really iffy about this cam idea, because it takes LOST O $$$ which doesnt grow on trees...so if you experienced luders could help me that would be great...look above at what i have..thanks

hear ya go man, don't go to the track next year. put aside $250 a month till next year. then you will have $3000. then go buy a turbo, and whoop that ford's ass

Ummmm..could i have some info on NONE turbo mod's please..really need to get some ideas!! thanks

you know, you could change your gearing (slightly) by putting smaller tires on it when you race. some 14 low profile soft rubber slicks. i've seen it do wonders on rear wheel drive cars. but then again, i've also seen it rip apart rearends.

first, strip the interior and toss the spare in the basement.
then maybe work on the cams and pulleys like others have said. upgrade the ignition too.


and...working on your driving skills wouldn't hurt either :wink:

yeah if u really wanna hand a 5.0 it's ass, there are few alternatives out there...i mean cheap, other than FI ot nitrous

Buy a flux capacitor.

Yes i know what you mean, i am really trying to stay away from that NOS, so if it comes down to it then i may go for it, but is there anything you can think of that will keep me N/A, and that will give me some hp without rebuilding my head too much..i am really iffy about this cam idea, because it takes LOST O $$$ which doesnt grow on trees...so if you experienced luders could help me that would be great...look above at what i have..thanks


vtec_lude, you seem to want information, but, you don't listen to the people giving it to you.
J_Spec_NiTeMaRe had the best answer here. Driving skill is what makes you quick. If you can't improve your driving skills, then improving your car is only going to help so much. A 'small' dry shot of nitrous is probably going to be less detrimental to the longterm engine strength than a cam is, simply because it won't always be stressing your engine unnecessarily. I wouldn't generally recommend a cam swap unless you are going to build the head. on top of that, most cams are tuned to work with each other. if you change the intake cam, and not the exhaust cam, or vice-versa, your overlap is going to be completely off.
Perhaps you should consider investing your money into going to the track and perfecting your launch techniques, and getting your shiftpoints exact, while lowering your shift times. I've seen drivers take as much as 2 seconds off their e/t, by practicing; no mods whatsoever to their cars. Get to know your car, THEN start modifying it.
Just my $ .02

thank you cero

When u r runnin you probably do like i used to do and rag the shit out of it til the redline then shift....not a good idea you will blow it up. I have a spec book here that says if you have a h22a1 you need to shift at 6800 rpm to acheive the max hp of 190 and if it is an h23 shift at 5800 to get 160 hp

When u r runnin you probably do like i used to do and rag the shit out of it til the redline then shift....not a good idea you will blow it up. I have a spec book here that says if you have a h22a1 you need to shift at 6800 rpm to acheive the max hp of 190 and if it is an h23 shift at 5800 to get 160 hp

does shifting at 6800rpm keep you above 5200rpm in the next gear?

if not, he'll be falling out of vtec. in turn being slower than if he shifted at 7400rpm(redline).

just to throw in my bit of knowledge. the best way to take a stock (im assuming) 5.0 in a vtech lude with what you have and staying NA as you seem adimant about doing is to, as several people have said, learn to drag. unfortunatly, its not just a pedal mash and go. i can back up what these guys are saying. i went from 10.9's to 10.4's (eigth mile, and a 3rd gen 2.1) in just one week of working on my launch and shifting.

second....bore the throttle body, then get headwork done. without going forced induction, its really all you have left. a basic port and polish...and if you never wanna go forced induction, go ahead and get it shaved to raise the compression ratio, a five angle valve job, etc etc etc.

a racing fuel pump might also make a difference

the throttle body should be between 150-200 bucks...take it out yourself and it will probably be cheaper.

the rest is hella expensive.

good luck

okey well i think u should get some new pistons, some beafed up cams, stronger rods, and just build up the head... u can do a lot to the vtec head, unleash its NA power fuck all the turbos and nitros, but if u wanna go FI get a supercharger, with like 8psi boost per gear and the vtec hitten at the 4800 rpm ull destroy the stang, but i think u should just put up the compression beaf up the pistons and cams, and build up the head.. all u nead bud

skunk2 stage 2 cams + type-s 11:1 pistons = teh win :evillol:

month old thread w/ out him even replying...

closed.