94 Cav Stalls when Placed in Drive
trcar
12-04-2003, 08:14 PM
After an hour of city driving, the car will stall at a stop. It starts up, then stalls when placed in drive. The problem disappears after the vehicle sits for 30 minutes. It is also intermittant. I have replaced the fuel filter with no improvement. I heard that there is a part in the transmission that causes this in caveliers. Don't know the name of the part. Was told that the part can be disconnected with a decrease in fuel efficiency. Any ideas or recommendations would be appreciated. Guess which vehicle my kids will not drive for now.
ScoobyDoo2003
12-04-2003, 09:43 PM
Try looking into a TCC Solenoid...this sounds like your problem. It is also known to go out in cavaliers.
boots03
12-05-2003, 12:34 PM
that is the same as the Lockout scilinoid isnt it?
ScoobyDoo2003
12-05-2003, 12:50 PM
I belive so. It has something to do with the transmission. If the solenoid is going out it doesnt let the trans converter close or something along those lines i am not sure i dont remember exactly what the technician said. But yeah i think it's like the lockout solenoid for the transmission.
I am going to get it fixed within a week or so. Need Money first =o)
Other than this problem which will be fixed shortly...my Cavalier runs great.
Why did you ask this question?
that is the same as the Lockout scilinoid isnt it?
I am going to get it fixed within a week or so. Need Money first =o)
Other than this problem which will be fixed shortly...my Cavalier runs great.
Why did you ask this question?
that is the same as the Lockout scilinoid isnt it?
boots03
12-05-2003, 01:34 PM
because mine did the exact oppisite, and they saidit was that lock out silinoid, when id went into first, my car died, lol, they are known to do it
ScoobyDoo2003
12-05-2003, 01:45 PM
HA!...i dont really care as long as they fix the problem and it works HA! My car is totally fine other then that little problem. I had no clue this was a known issue with cavaliers...DAMN! i could have had this fixed a long time ago instead of changing 50 million other things HA! WHO KNOWS IT WOULD BE WITH THE TRANNY!!!!!! STUPID TECHNOLOGY!!!!!! HA HA HA!!
boots03
12-05-2003, 01:49 PM
lol, it should only be about an $84 part, but they like do go out unexpectidly
ScoobyDoo2003
12-05-2003, 02:30 PM
Yeah but it's the labor that kills ya. He showed me what he has to take out and HOLY! it's like a maze HA!!!!!! but i can see the wire HA!...he said the motor mount has to come out aswell...I am thinking of just replacing them since my car jumps a lot when at idle...i am sure they are warn by now i mean 118,000 miles...they have done their job HA!
TEXAS-HOTROD
12-05-2003, 06:55 PM
It is the torque converter solenoid. I have replaced many in many different G.M. vehicles. Seems like Cavs and Grand Ams are the most frequent. As far as the engine having to come out doesn't sound right. These solenoids are now available aftermarket, paying $84 for one sounds like a dealer rip anyway. The toughest one for me to replace was on a '99 Malibu.
On t.h.440s, 440T-4s, and 125s, it is accessable by removing the left side pan. The c.v. shaft has to be removed and the left side frame rail might have to be lowered down also. I can't remember what procedure was done on which vehicle.
Good luck,
---TEX---
On t.h.440s, 440T-4s, and 125s, it is accessable by removing the left side pan. The c.v. shaft has to be removed and the left side frame rail might have to be lowered down also. I can't remember what procedure was done on which vehicle.
Good luck,
---TEX---
ScoobyDoo2003
12-05-2003, 07:14 PM
Yeah that's what i meant. I dont really know much about cars but i he said something about just taking out the side or the panel side thingy..I DONT KNOW HA! but he said it's not as hard as some cars.
TEXAS-HOTROD
12-05-2003, 10:49 PM
That's cool.
Sometimes the dumaflatchies get in the way of the thingy, making the gizmo hard to get to (just kidding).
Call some shops that you can trust (if there are any) and get some quotes. Might help to have someting in writing too. Also, ask that if the job goes faster than expected if there would be a discount.
I use the labor guide only for estimating. When I estimate a job I will tack on some exra costs to cover my a?$, but only charge for actual time. I have had jobs go way faster than what the book showed, making the total cheaper than the estimate.
---TEX---
Sometimes the dumaflatchies get in the way of the thingy, making the gizmo hard to get to (just kidding).
Call some shops that you can trust (if there are any) and get some quotes. Might help to have someting in writing too. Also, ask that if the job goes faster than expected if there would be a discount.
I use the labor guide only for estimating. When I estimate a job I will tack on some exra costs to cover my a?$, but only charge for actual time. I have had jobs go way faster than what the book showed, making the total cheaper than the estimate.
---TEX---
ScoobyDoo2003
12-05-2003, 10:54 PM
Yeah, I already found a guy i know. I trust him. He worked on my boss's car and did a great job. I also went to school with his son and was good friends with his son, so i am in good hands. He owns his own transmission shop here in town. He already qouted me $150. I told him ok..and he was very honest with me. Hard to find people like that now a days ya know?
TEXAS-HOTROD
12-05-2003, 11:06 PM
Hope it works out for you.
Later,
---TEX---
Later,
---TEX---
trcar
12-06-2003, 12:31 PM
Thanks for the replies. I have a couple of garages I think I can trust. Will get back with the cost and if it was successful.
JDW
01-22-2004, 08:34 PM
Sounds like you all have had the same problem that I have had - it is the lock out Solenoid. Costs 250 in our area to replace. If you look under the car on the transmission there is a plug with a couple of wires coming out of it. Mine on a 93 was right up in the front. Just unplug it, will run fine - has for several years. What happens is that when your are on the highway it doesn't lock up and drop your rpms down about 500 or so. That's the quick fix and unless you are doing lots of hwy driving you will probably never know the difference.
It won't hurt anything - being unplugged - keeps you from stalling out at intersections!
jdw
It won't hurt anything - being unplugged - keeps you from stalling out at intersections!
jdw
trcar
02-10-2004, 07:39 PM
I was able to verify that it is the lockout solenoid by disconnecting a blue connector/plug when the problem occurred. A tip from Cottman transmision and JDW. The engine started and functioned after I placed it in drive. I will probably leave it disconnected. I have a quote to replace it for $240. The blue connector on was located just inside the hood, look straight down and a little to the right. Popped it off and the problem is gone.
Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for the feedback.
angel_iz378
02-10-2004, 11:37 PM
my cavy had the same prob about a year ago...would stall out when i stopped the recrank and then stall again when i tried to go...the way the mechanic explained to me (a simple minded female) it's like a switch that's not opening and closing the way it should...solenoid sounds about right...
TEXAS-HOTROD
02-11-2004, 08:18 PM
:2cents:
Just a word of caution. On some G.M. overdrives, there is an extra lubrication circut that is activated by the lock-up converter. Scootin down the road at high speed, w/no high pressure lube to certain vitals, might turn a hopeful quick fix :bricks1: into a high dollar overhaul :angryfire .
---TEX---
Just a word of caution. On some G.M. overdrives, there is an extra lubrication circut that is activated by the lock-up converter. Scootin down the road at high speed, w/no high pressure lube to certain vitals, might turn a hopeful quick fix :bricks1: into a high dollar overhaul :angryfire .
---TEX---
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