compression ratios

ok, ive heard about when you turbo a NA engine you have to change the compression ratio. what does this mean? different pistons?? im lost.

diffrent compression ratios can mean alot of things. lets start by saying this: turbo's push air into the engine, or rams it in. the more air you have, the more fuel you can burn, and the more power you will get.
now, if you increase the area that you are compressing in side the engine, you can compress more air, and make more power. you can do this in several ways. one easy way would be to get bigger head gasket. another way would be to bore out your engine. you can also get difrrent style pistons, or decrease the stroke of the engine (how far up the piston goes). that way, you can have more space to put in air and fuel.
PORTAMAN, please visit this website. it wont make you a turbo technecian, but it will point you in the right direction. (and you get nice pics too^ ^)

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm

reply once you see the page and let me know what you think (for future postings)

thanks for the info, but ive read that link many a time lol... along with others. i have a precise knowledge of how turbos and turbo components work, i was just unclear on the topic of compression ratios. all in all, im purchasing a DRAG turbo kit for my f22b1 accord motor and im trying to figure out if im going to need any immediate modifications in order to prevent damage or malfunction. also i was planning to up the boost from 6psi to 8 or maybe 10psi. i guess im just worried lol but thanks.

lol Oo
I belive for that engine, if its the one i think, 7psi of pressure without intercooler is the best/safe method. with inter cooler you might want to try 8-9 psi

yeh the kit comes with EVERYTHING, one of the most complete kits on the market. check out dragturbokits.com

HEY!!!! i saw that on ebay the other day. did you get that website from ebay?? because if u didnt, sometimes they give specials there. just some FYI

yea i know lol ebay is sweet

lol. i work at night. so i barly buy parts other than online. most of my parts where bought on ebay. including the graphics (39.99)

what a coinsidence. like 95% of my parts are off ebay too lolol.... header, race cat, catback, groundwires (screw em), and the intake filter heat shield heh

The way i see it is, if you go to a speed shop, they multiply prices. ebay on the other hand is normally cheaper. I bought my chrome catalitic converter for 35 bucks. speed shop wanted $125 plus installation.

no doubt. did u get the striahg through cat?? aka testpipe?? if so, have u installed it?? how does it sound and did u feel and power gains..

lol portaman, to be honest with you, the muffler sounds a little bit louder, not higher pitch, but louder. i felt a small increase in power, around 5k up to redline.
and the most coolest part, is since i have a fmu, and a striaght through exaust too, when i rev up real high, flames come out of the exuast. i have pictures to prove it. no spark plug in the muffler or anything

Honestly, it was the best 35 bucks spent on ebay, other than the fmu for 50 bucks, with pressure guage

to tell you the truth, i really dont like those high pitch mufflers, that sound like lawn mowers, but on integras, a muffler + straight through cat sounds real nice.

*brainfart* ...whats an fmu?? and my friends v6 acura legend used to shoot flames naturally too.. it was kickass...

FMU = fuel management unit.
there not expensive, its basicly an easy way to adjust your fuel pressure.
if you have a stright system, u might wanna try this. when your car warms up, rev up the engine about to 5k rpm, and shut the ignition off, then on.
That will throw a fireball out of the muffler about 3feet. its like the basic concept of burning excess fuel out, but instead of installing another spark plug on the end of the muffler, you are using the engines sparkplugs, and the excess fuel from when you turned off the engine temporarily. you get alot of attention that way.

ooo so the when u run richer the bigger flame? not that that is good, but i have one of the resistor "scams" they sell on ebay (supposed +20hp) that makes ur motor run a little bit richer. think it might work once i install the cat? heh heh heh.... and what about the venom 400 performance control module.. its supposed to piggyback the MAF and re-map the fuel curve, smoothing out rough spots for better acceleration. sorry im throwin a shitload of questions lol, im just curious

its ok porta, i enjoy answering questions. BTW, that resistor scam from ebay, the one where you put the resistor in the idle air control sensor, i suggest you take that off as soon as possible. Belive me, you do not want to go threw what i have gone with that thing. what it does, is it adds a resistance value to the resistance of the Idle air control sensor, making the computer think that the car is always running cold. thus adding more fuel. it sounds like a good idea. BUT!!!!!!!! what about the idle air control motor? the computer sends constant voltage to the motor, to try and get the computer in closed loop. that motor is supposed to be open like that only for a small period of time. its not meant to be ran on all the time. i had that on for a while, and it messed up that motor, and its expensive to replace because its a $120 dollor part.
if you want to run the car a little richer, my suggestion is again "ebay" get the arospeed fuel pressure regulator instead. you can manually adjust the pressure of the fuel going in the engine. its about 40-50 bucks, but it comes with a fuel pressure guage, for under the hood. very help full for determining fuel related problems too. so its like killing two birds with one stone

sweet... will that work with stock fuel rail, lines, pump and injectors? just curious... what kind of motor u have

I have a B18B non vtec

yes the fuel pressure regulator works with stock everything. the concept behind that is, if you cant get bigger injectors, throw more pressure, and they spit more fuel

Btw, when you dont have a fuel pressure regulator, if you have a acura integra, the regular pressure is 34 psi. that is for a 14:1 fuel ratio, which is the most fuel effecient. if you have the repair manuel it clearly states, that you can go up to 38 psi. 38 the mix is rich, but it gives your car a big boost in power for the price. not only can you get more power, but like all people, when fuel prices go up, and you dont wanna have a fuel guzzler, you can lower the pressure down to i belive it was either 28 or 30 psi, and your fuel economy will be very higher.

that sounds cool cuba can you post,email,send me pics of it? i'd like to see it.

Portaman, about the compression ratio question: I asked the same thing a few months ago and got a very informative page-long answer. It's pretty complicated, though. I still don't really understand it. Do a search in the Tech forum. I'm sure it's around there somewhere.

Btw, when you dont have a fuel pressure regulator, if you have a acura integra, the regular pressure is 34 psi. that is for a 14:1 fuel ratio, which is the most fuel effecient. if you have the repair manuel it clearly states, that you can go up to 38 psi. 38 the mix is rich, but it gives your car a big boost in power for the price. not only can you get more power, but like all people, when fuel prices go up, and you dont wanna have a fuel guzzler, you can lower the pressure down to i belive it was either 28 or 30 psi, and your fuel economy will be very higher.
my fuel pressure regulator says 48 for my b18c1w/310cc injectors and a new fuel pump. do you know the pressure on a stock gsr?
im a confused about some stuff too. first off i know porting an engine means widening each chamber. but what does bording and sleaving an engine mean?? also very confused on compression ratio i forgot what the b18c1 is stock but what ratio would i want w/ 75 to 125 shot of nitrous?

port and polish doesnt necessarily mean widening each chamber, it is the process of crafting (grinding etc) the intake/exhaust valves and making it so there is better flow characteristics through the cylinder head. read this: http://www.automotivetech.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3064

"boring out" is the process of what it says, boring the cylinders themselves to make them have larger displacements. i think this is right, for more info visit automotivetech.org and register with their forums, they have mad topics on this stuff.

AWESOME! thanx. and what about sleeving?

You're probably talking about Oversize Sleeving. This means that you increase the diameter of the cylinder. That makes the combustion chamber larger so you get more power. I'm not sure about this but I think it gives you more torque, due to the increasment of pression in the cylinder...Correct me if I'm wrong