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2000 Rodeo check engine light/no gas guage


conardh
12-02-2003, 07:18 PM
2000 Rodeo started with the check engine light and then the gas guage quit working (shows empty with the low fuel warning light flashing) no matter what level is in the tank. The local (independant) repair shop said the code was P0463 (Greek to me) and suggested I take it to the dealer and have him look at it.

I think at worst case I can buy a PCM new/used (for my vehicile) and just change it. Am I off base????

Thanks

rodeo02
12-04-2003, 11:30 AM
Search this site, or try http://www.forum.planetisuzoo.com/ -or- http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?Cat=&C=15 and you will see this is a very common issue with 1998-2000 rodeo V6's. The electrical contacts on the fuel tank sending unit loose good contact (the wiper & board), which causes your fuel gage to not function properly & causes the CEL to light up. You have to pull the gas tank to remove the sending unit to fix this. You can bend the contacts back together, or replace the whole sending unit. Either fix will last about the same- about 30-50Kmi. This issue was resolved for 2001+

G/luck
Joel

2eyefishclaw
12-04-2003, 11:22 PM
your fuel pump is covered by factory warranty for 10 years or 100,00 miles if you purchased the vehicle new also depends on in service date contact your local dealer

2eyefishclaw
12-04-2003, 11:25 PM
e-mail your vin # to me at [email protected] I can let you know if that pump is covered or not

the problem is the fuel sending unit

Tom Q
12-11-2003, 03:07 PM
My 1999 Rodeo did the smae thing yesterday. Low fuel light is flashing. What concerns me is that my blower turns on as soon as the lights flash and it stays on even if the engine is cold. I tried hard resetting by disconnecting the battery. Lights turn back on after 2 minutes of restarting. Is there a temporary way of solving this (fuel light flashing)other than bringing the gas tank down? Is there a possibility of vehicle stall?

dingobait
02-14-2004, 08:22 PM
I am having similar problems. My fuel gauge went out some time ago. Lately the idling has been rough and it will often stall while waiting at traffic lights. Today my CEL came on. From what I have read here it looks like it's all related to the fuel tank sending unit/fuel pump. The cold start hasn't been good for quite a while either. Is there a cold start valve perhaps causing this, or do you think it all relates to the sending unit/fuel pump?

I will call the dealer on Monday 2/16/04 and will let everyone know what success I have getting them to address these items. I have the 100K warranty and am at 77K so they "should" handle all of this.

Thanks for all of the useful information. This has been a great time saver already.

amigo-2k
02-14-2004, 10:22 PM
Sounds like your fuel sending unit is bad and your intake gasket is bad too. If you're the first owner of a 00-02 you're covered.
-Ryan
review the FAQ at the bottom.

dingobait
02-15-2004, 10:35 PM
Actually mine is a '99.

I can see on page 6C-9 of the workshop manual that the Fuel pump and sender are one assembly, and it looks like the tank has to be dropped to change it out. I will let the dealer handle that since I have the extended warranty to 102K. It is possible that the head gasket(s) is leaking but I would think that if that was the case the idle would always be erratic. The warranty covers gaskets also. It covers most things. Hopefully the dealer won't dispute anything.

The CEL light went out today and didn't come back on yet.

Current anomalies - Fuel gauge doesn't work, intermittent CEL light, idle sometimes erratic/low and sometimes causes stalling, and it has to be given gas in order to start.

It definitely looks like there are some intermittent connections on the sending unit.

I will relay all information after the dealer visit.
Thanks for the feedback.

rodeo02
02-16-2004, 09:42 AM
....It is possible that the head gasket(s) is leaking but I would think that if that was the case the idle would always be erratic. The warranty covers gaskets also. It covers most things. Hopefully the dealer won't dispute anything......

Actually, it's the intake manifold gasket that goes on these engines. When they go bad you get the performance issues you describe & it happens pretty much only at startup & idle (hi vac conditions). Fuel tank sending units are a common problem as well (1998-2000), & make sure you only repair/replace the sending unit. It has it's own part# and can be removed from the $$$ fuel pump. There's MANY posts out there on both of these issues.
G/luck!
Joel

dingobait
02-18-2004, 05:22 PM
[QUOTE=rodeo02]Actually, it's the intake manifold gasket that goes on...

Thanks rodeo02. Much appreciated I will definitely keep on top of that. Unfortunately there are some issues with the extended warranty.

"If anyone else out there has an extended Warranty through Smartchoice, be advised that the company has been liquidated. You can get information on what you need to do at http://www.sceadmin.com/index.htm.";

The company that the dealer says assumed the bogus Smartchoice warranties is "First Extended" - http://www.firstextended.com/

So far the dealer indicates that their diag shows:

Fuel gauge - problem is with the fuel sending unit.
Check Engine Light (CEL) - they codes indicate misfire - could be the EGR valve
Stalling - Fuel pressure regulator is leaking fuel into a vacuum hose (regulator gets overloaded and dumps fuel)

I am working warranty coverage issues at the moment so I will have to post actual results later. I don't have the actual error codes yet but I will have them before this is all over.

dingobait
02-25-2004, 01:19 AM
The dealer informs me that the new warrantly company will not cover these items. Long story.

The dealer did run the full diagnostic test, though they didn't provide any of the failure codes (another long story that I am still working).

Here's the bottom line fix wise -

The dealer says that the problem with the fuel gauge is the "sending unit", which is a separate part from the fuel pump (fuel pump is covered under warranty). This I expected.

They further say that the "fuel pressure regulator" is the cause of 1) frequent stalling at idle 2) low idle 3) hard starting 4) CEL light (came on once for 1 hour after initial start following an oil and filter change).

The dealer says that they will replace the sending unit and the fuel pressure regulator for $718, which is the full price and not an estimate. Seems very high to me, but to be expected at a dealer.

My questions:

Will I have to get the fuel "sending unit" from a dealer? I couldn't find it on https://www.rockauto.com/, and I doubt any local auto parts store will stock it (I will check)

Is there some reprogramming that has to be done once the sending unit is replaced? That is what the dealer is telling me.

As far as the "fuel pressure regulator", I do see in my service manual a "fuel pressure control valve" that is mounted on the fuel rail and maintains a pressure differential across the injectors under all operating conditions. Seems like it should be easy to replace. It appears to be located on the fuel rail near the intake manifold.

Should I replace the EGR valve as well? And take a good look at the whole EGR system?

Does anyone have experience changing out the "fuel pressure control valve", or the "sending unit in the fuel tank"? Is there some reprogramming that needs to be done as well? What connections need to be cleaned up/made stronger on the sending unit (instead of replacing it)? Are they in a connector on the wiper and board, or are they actually wipers across contact points on a circuit board? It doesn't seem like too difficult of a job to drop the fuel tank.

If anyone has worked on/fixed the sending unit or the fuel pressure control valve, any info you care to share would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
[email protected]

amigo-2k
02-25-2004, 01:35 AM
Seeing that you have a 99 it looks like the sending unit fix should be covered by this recent post:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=193601

Fuel Sending Unit -- Recall in 6-8wks (post on 24Feb04)
"I was called by NHTSA and I was told to expect the fuel sending units on 98-99 Rodeo to be
recalled by Isuzu. They said expect 6-8 weeks."

So I would just use your trip odometer, and every 250miles or so fill-up. And then when you get your recall notice, take it in and have it done for free. FYI: the sending unit costs about 40 bucks from St. Charles Isuzu (shipped). Check my FAQ at the bottom.

Instructions on the fuel pressure regulator removeal:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=179007&highlight=regulator

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/135272Fuelpressorregulator.jpg

Contact St. Charles Isuzu for a price quote for the part.

Here is an idea what it will cost:
http://www.professionalautoparts.com/is_2002_rod-v6-004_c_F416-2266_6.html

But call up St. Charles (5 minute call). OEM is the way to go for sure.

If you don't want to replace it yourself take the part to a local mechanic and print off the instructions.



good luck!

dingobait
02-25-2004, 02:46 PM
Amigo 2K,

Incredibly great information. I am of course already well versed in using the trip odometer as my fuel gauge. I will wait for the recall on the sending unit and will have the dealer replace that at the same time that they do the ABS software upgrade on an existing recall.

I just called Isuzu Owner Relations at 800 255 6727 and they don't know anything about the recall yet. I guess the NTHSA hasn't notified them yet. Better to wait and see if it can be fixed for free.

And as far as the fuel pressure regulator GREAT NEWS. I called the local dealer and they want $71.44 for the part. I then call St. Charles Auto, http://isuzu.stcharlesauto.com/index.asp, at your recommendation and even though they are in St. Louis, MO (I am in California), they can get the part to me tomorrow and still beat the local dealer's price even with the cost of priority overnight shipping!!!!!!!!!!!! Now that is service and is quite the opposite of the service available from the local dealers here. That is a great site to have bookmarked.

And with the directions you've provided it looks like a fairly easy job.
Thanks a million Amigo 2K!
Mark

amigo-2k
02-25-2004, 04:05 PM
Thanks a million Amigo 2K!

not a problem! Would you happent o have the part # and cost? They will be printed on your invoice when y ou get it. I would like to include this info in my FAQ doc.

Thanks!
-Ryan

dingobait
02-25-2004, 06:21 PM
As soon as the part is in my hands you will have the information on part number and cost.

I will also give you feedback on how the installation goes.

Thanks again.
Mark

dingobait
02-27-2004, 02:31 AM
Fuel pressure regulator part # for 1999 Rodeo: 8-17113-398-0

Cost $54 from St. Charles Auto, http://isuzu.stcharlesauto.com/ (my local dealer's cost is $75. St. Charles Isuzu got it to me overnight for $65 which is cheaper than the local dealer sells it for. Funny that I could get it quicker and cheaper from Wisconsin than from the dealer down the street here in California). I was in contact with a guy named Merlin. Great service.

See below for tips on changing this part in a 1999 V6 Rodeo M/T. Read the whole thing prior to starting the job.

I replaced the regulator in about 40 minutes and I wasn't rushing. It seems to have completely fixed these problems:
1) Erratic Idle (needle now rock solid at 750 RPM)
2) Frequent stalling at idle - doesn't stall at all
3) Hard starting - starts like it used to. No need to give it gas.
4) Intermittent CEL light - gone

The regulator has no electrical connections. It is a diaphragm operated relief valve mounted on the fuel rail.

Before attempting to change the part, you need to ensure that you remove all fuel pressure from the system. The following procedure from the service manual works like a charm. I used this procedure and there was absolutely no fuel pressure in the system. No fuel leakage at all when I removed the regulator.

Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure (works great).

1) Remove the fuel cap.
2)Remove the fuel pump relay from the underhood relay box.
3) Start the engine and allow it to stall.
4) Crank the engine for 30 seconds.
5) Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Caution - to reduce the risk of fire and injury, it is necessary to release fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components. Even after relieving fuel system pressure, a small amount of fuel will likely be released when servicing fuel line connections. Cover fuel line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting the fittings in order to absorb any fuel that may leak out.

Leave the fuel pump relay out and the battery disconnected while you change the part.

Changing the part on a 1999 Rodeo is a bit different than the service manual shows. The regulator does not screw into the fuel rail. It sits down into the rail and is held in place by a snap ring.

Once you have removed the fuel line and the bracket that blocks access to the regulator you will clearly see the regulator and the snap ring.

Before you start the job make sure that you have a pair of snap ring pliers that fit. Use the new snap ring that comes with the part to ensure your tool will do the job.

You will also need to modify a 6mm allen wrench by cutting the short end to within approximately 1/4" of the 90 degree bend. You will need it to remove the rear most of the 2 bolts that mount the bracket that is over the regulator. Ideally you should have two 6mm allen wrenches, an unmodified one for the front bolt and the modified one for the back bolt.

For ease of removal of the snap ring that holds the regulator in place on the fuel rail, it can be easily rotated once you have access to it by hand using the fuel line nipple for leverage. This enables you to turn it to a position where the snap ring is easily maneuvered out.

Make sure that you remove all parts of the old regulator from the fuel rail before attempting to install the new one. Make sure that you remove the large blue o-ring, the wire mesh screen and the small black o-ring from inside the fuel rail. Just make sure that you remove all of the parts that you see on the new regulator.

Once you have it all back together, install the fuel pump relay and hook up the negative battery cable. Also make sure that you put the fuel cap back on.

Start it up. Done.

Thanks a million Amigo 2K. You have ensured that my upcoming road trip this weekend will be much smoother.

Mark

rodeo02
02-27-2004, 08:02 AM
AWESOME writeup Mark! :)
THANKS

Joel

amigo-2k
02-27-2004, 09:29 AM
Mark,
Great writeup bud! It was so good that I copy and pasted it right into my FAQ (close to 1000 hits by week 3).

Make sure you head out for a beer tonight to celebrate all the $$$ you saved!

Cheers!
-Ryan

dingobait
02-27-2004, 02:50 PM
You are all very welcome. I thought that it was the least I could do as payment for all of the great help I received from the forum. After all, that's why we're all here right? No sense in reinventing the wheel when the knowledge is already available.

Now I can go and meet my east coast friends in Vegas this weekend without worrying about the problems that this easy fix eliminated.

Road trip.

Thanks everyone. Talk to you soon.
Mark
[email protected]

suvguy
02-27-2004, 05:59 PM
Nube here, so what about those of us that are out of the factory warranty? I just purchased a '00 Rodeo w/3.2L that has 64K on it and at half tank or less the gas gauge goes nuts as well as the low fuel light, and I have P0463 code and CEL light.

I'm trying to get the dealer to fix this, but it's not covered under their 3mo/3K mile warranty. Only angle I have now is I have to get this thing E-checked here in Ohio and I know they won't do it with the CEL on, and the dealer guarentees it will pass E-check. From the looks of it, they have simply been disconnecting the battery when the light comes on till they sell it, and they sold it with a full tank of gas so it took a few days for the problem to appear.

Anyway, long story short, if I can;t get the dealer to fix this, and the sending unit is seperate part number, what is that part number and how much does it cost, and does St. Charles carry it?

Thanks

amigo-2k
02-27-2004, 07:29 PM
Check my FAQ and you will find the part number. Cost about 40 bucks.

dingobait
03-03-2004, 06:22 PM
Hey everyone,
I am back from my roadtrip and very happy to report that changing the fuel pressure regulator on my 99 Rodeo V6 absolutely fixed these problems.

1) Erratic Idle (needle now rock solid at 750 RPM)
2) Frequent stalling at idle - doesn't stall at all
3) Hard starting - starts like it used to. No need to give it gas.
4) Intermittent CEL light - gone

I still have the fuel gauge problem but that is supposedly going to be addressed on a recall in the near future.

Many thanks for all of the help.
Mark

rszappa1
03-03-2004, 06:34 PM
Still waiting for the information from dennosmith on that one...I called and emailed nhtsi and they are not aware of a pending recall....

dingobait
03-06-2004, 08:26 PM
Yeah, I checked with 2 dealers also and they know nothing at all about any upcoming recall for the fuel gauge problem.

The NHTSA site doesn't show anything as of today http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/

Seems to me that when I saw the information about an upcoming recall here on the forum the person indicated that the NHTSA had contacted them by phone. Hmmmm....

Mark
[email protected]

Jim Donoho
03-08-2004, 09:57 PM
For what it is worth, I just replaced a fuel regulator a couple of weeks ago. Its a pretty easy job. The most difficult part, and it took as long as every thing else I did, was to get the 2 fuel hoses off and back on. Somebody should build a tool for that. 1 1/2 foot of hose cost $7.00. Next time I will spend the 7 bucks and just cut it off. Now that I see what your paying, I feel bad that I spend $74.00 for the regulator.

rweldy
03-12-2004, 01:55 PM
I can't thank you guys enough. My Isuzu dealer tried to get $600 out of me for a new fuel pump when all I needed was the fuel sending unit. Plus on top of that didn't tell me that it was covered under warranty. After reading this forum, I let him know that it was covered and I got away with no charge. IT IS COVERED UNDER WARRANTY!!

amigo-2k
03-12-2004, 02:15 PM
Great to hear it!

Make sure you bookmark this site and come back if you have any future problems!

-Ryan

Davejb
03-12-2004, 04:58 PM
I can't thank you guys enough. My Isuzu dealer tried to get $600 out of me for a new fuel pump when all I needed was the fuel sending unit. Plus on top of that didn't tell me that it was covered under warranty. After reading this forum, I let him know that it was covered and I got away with no charge. IT IS COVERED UNDER WARRANTY!!

Your dealer gave in quicker than mine did, I had to call Isuzu customer relations and have them call my dealer to get mine covered, even then it took 4 trips for them to get it right.

cindyo37
03-17-2004, 12:37 PM
Search this site, or try http://www.forum.planetisuzoo.com/ -or- http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?Cat=&C=15 and you will see this is a very common issue with 1998-2000 rodeo V6's. The electrical contacts on the fuel tank sending unit loose good contact (the wiper & board), which causes your fuel gage to not function properly & causes the CEL to light up. You have to pull the gas tank to remove the sending unit to fix this. You can bend the contacts back together, or replace the whole sending unit. Either fix will last about the same- about 30-50Kmi. This issue was resolved for 2001+

G/luck
Joel

Hi, This problem was not resolved for 2001 models. I have a 2001 rodeo sport and this is why I'm at this site. Over a year ago took rodeo to dealer because of gas smell inside of vehicle real strong. Supposed to have fixed it but the smell is back again and now the gas gauge goes crazy. I put 15.00 gas in it and the gas gauge goes up to maybe 1/4 tank then back down below E with the gas light blinking. We have to keep up with how much and often we put gas in tank because we don't know what we have in there. And I wonder since alot of the things in this suv are computerized will anything shut down because the gauges are showing no gas at all. We haven't contacted Isuzu about this problem, it just started with the gas gauge but for the last year and a half you could smell the strong gas smell inside the vehicle. And is this dangerous?

Davejb
03-17-2004, 02:43 PM
Gas fumes inside the vehicle are extremely dangerous, not to mention bad for you. Get the vehicle into a dealer and get it fixed, shouldn't cost you anything for a new fuel pump.

rodeo02
03-17-2004, 06:55 PM
Hi, This problem was not resolved for 2001 models. I have a 2001 rodeo sport and this is why I'm at this site.....

The rodeo sport may be a different animal because it has a different gas tank than the longer wheel base rodeo. As far as I know, the fuel tank sending unit part # for 2001+ is different than 1998-2000 rodeos.
G/luck
Joel

pjgeisler
03-31-2004, 05:38 PM
I have a 2001 Honda Passport that has the bad sending unit symptoms. I've inquired to St. Charles for the price of the replacement part. Since my Honda does not have the 100K warranty (only 36K and only 60K with the extended warranty I bought), I will have to change this out myself. I want to get a shop manual for my truck anyway, so does anyone know if there is one that covers changing out the sending unit?

Thanks in advance for the help,
Pat

amigo-2k
03-31-2004, 06:15 PM
Couple of them are forsale on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33553&item=2471109373#ebayphotohosting

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/135272sendingunit.jpg

sheyam
11-12-2004, 01:47 PM
Fuel tank sending units are a common problem as well (1998-2000), & make sure you only repair/replace the sending unit. It has it's own part# and can be removed from the $$$ fuel pump.

Why only replace the sending unit? Is it bad to replace the entire pump? I ask because I just called the dealer (after reading this wonderful forum and finding out what they should say) and the guy I talked to said I need the fuel pump replaced. Would this be a bad thing? It's a 2000 Rodeo, still under warranty, so it won't cost me any different either way.

BTW, you guys are great. Thanks!

rodeo02
11-12-2004, 03:19 PM
No, that's a sweet deal if they are willing to replace the pump/sending unit assembly for you. From what I understand, some isuzu documentation lists the pump & sender as one part#, even though you can part it out seperately- which is what you'd wanna do if this was a DIY job. How long did your's last for?

G/luck
Joel

sheyam
11-14-2004, 12:47 PM
Woo-hoo! I was getting kind of worried I'd have to tell the people I only wanted the sending unit replaced. I don't think they'd have believed me.

You're asking how long it was before the sending unit failed? Well, my rodeo is a 2000, and I bought it in September of that year, so just over 4 years from time of purchase. I'm just happy it went out now, versus after the warranty was up.

Thanks again - your help is invaluable.

sheyam
11-23-2004, 05:58 PM
Arrrggg! :mad: Evil people! I really don't like dealing with the Rodeo service people here.

Finally got the fuel pump replaced on my Rodeo, and then they tell me that in order to maintain the warranty, they've had to replace the fuel filter, which I have to pay for. O.k. so it's not super spendy, but add on the labor to replace it, and I'm having to pay $30. :disappoin Not pleased with that.

rodeo02
11-23-2004, 08:16 PM
Arrrggg! :mad: Evil people! I really don't like dealing with the Rodeo service people here.

Finally got the fuel pump replaced on my Rodeo, and then they tell me that in order to maintain the warranty, they've had to replace the fuel filter, which I have to pay for. O.k. so it's not super spendy, but add on the labor to replace it, and I'm having to pay $30. :disappoin Not pleased with that.

You got about $400 worth of work done for $30 and you are complaining? Man I hope you're kidding :iceslolan.

Joel

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