-=And so it begins: 350Z streetDRAGON=-

The car looks great in the mock-up you have, which makes me think that perhaps it doesn't need the SAS bodykit, the wing, or the decals. The Camel Yellow paintjob, I'd think, would top off the car as is very nicely.

Less is more, some great person said a long time ago.

Maybe you're right, but I'll still add the front bumper and hood from the SAS kit (not the sides - decals won't work on them, maybe the rear bumper, it's it better than original), the decals...definetly the decals and the wing...it's a streetDRAGON. It'll look even better with all those things, you'll see...

I think it needs a lil lowering, about 1-2'' scale drop and it'll go nicely, but maybe with the kit you wont need it.

The front end is almost sitting on the wheels already and in this pic you can see that the rear end will to once I fit the body all the way ), it's not in the pics (you can see the red chasis towards the back).
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress15.jpg

Plus, I've no idea how to lower it anyway, too complicated and risky...don't want to mess this one up, being my last one. And I probably don't have the tools required.

okay, well then maybe a deeper dish would look better and set off the look.

This is the shit, yo!! Hella tight interior. ggrrrr..makes me wanna work on my S14 real bad...too bad its rainy every friggin day (humid=bad). BTW, wut kind of paint did u use for ur chassis and interior? Looks hella good.

This is the shit, yo!! Hella tight interior. ggrrrr..makes me wanna work on my S14 real bad...too bad its rainy every friggin day (humid=bad). BTW, wut kind of paint did u use for ur chassis and interior? Looks hella good.

Thx man, the shit it is :evillol:

The paint I used on the chassis is Red (X-7) and on the interior Flat Red (XF-7), both Tamiya's.

those tuner stickers are hot to get them do you just go to pcmodeling.com

I like what your doing here!! keep it up!

I started on the wing today, but I'm not sure what color(s) to use on it. I don't have any carbon fiber decals, so I have to use paint. Any suggestions? What do you think would look best with the red int. and yellow ext?

Also, I had an idea of making a 360 degrees movie of the car when it's done, with my dig cam...not sure if I'm going to do it...where would I upload it for everyone to download?

do the usual metal colors, but make the wing part (the part that's usually CF) the body color

i think gunmetal mixed with a wee bit of black would look gd..

The windows look good. Does the kit come with window masks so you can paint them?
Like I've said before, the rims are awesome, and they really good even better with the body on it. I'm just waiting for how the car will look with the decals on it now.

The windows look good. Does the kit come with window masks so you can paint them?
Like I've said before, the rims are awesome, and they really good even better with the body on it. I'm just waiting for how the car will look with the decals on it now.

The kit comes with 4 masks, but they don't cover the sides. And the back window is really messed up...a lot of paint leaked and it was very hard to get it out, had to scrape it off with an xacto so I scratched the plastic in some places...

just wanna say... great progress.. and you're fast!!! the interior shows you're amazing with a brush.

also.. do you know that you can use 91% isopropyl alcohol (99cent a bottle from your local drug store) removes tamiya paints??? you couldve used that to fix your paint leak on your window.

thats what i was gonna say. I bought a bottle of 95% Ethanol and it works a charm on acrylics. It doesn't work well with spraypaints at all so I guess I gotta buy some Brake Fluid or something...

And nice project. I like the realism of the interior...

thats what i was gonna say. I bought a bottle of 95% Ethanol and it works a charm on acrylics. It doesn't work well with spraypaints at all so I guess I gotta buy some Brake Fluid or something...

And nice project. I like the realism of the interior...

That was he first thing I tried, but it didn't work because it's a spraypaint (X-18). Nail polish remover helped a little but it also was pretty useless once the paint dried completely... oh well.

Since I have nothing to do until the SAS kit arrives, I painted the headlights. According to the instructions, Im supposed to paint the border with Tamiya's Smoke, but I thought it would look bad with yellow and red...so I painted them red too - I thought it would look cool with the fire decals around the headlights. By the way, I should get the decals and the kit on Mon or Tue.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress21.jpg

That's cool, but I'm not so sure how camel yellow and red will mix.

Did you know that the colors yellow and red are incorporated into food packaging because they subconsiously make you hungry? Your car's making me feel it. Think McDonald's is open this time of night?

Did you know that the colors yellow and red are incorporated into food packaging because they subconsiously make you hungry? Your car's making me feel it. Think McDonald's is open this time of night?

Haha....yeah I knew about that. Red and yellow will look great on my car, I know - I'm very good at commercial/graphic design (got 3 awards) :iceslolan :iceslolan :iceslolan

Just got the package from eHobbies - the yellow paint, 8000 grit, and some sandpapers. I've asked them to add a polishing compound and they said they will, but for some reason it wasn't in the box! :mad:
Looks like the paint job won't be the best...

If you guys want, you can send me a piece of 12000 grit to polish the paint, I would really appreciate it. PM me for address.

Today, I'll paint the wing. If I get the SAS kit today, I'll put the first 2 coats of primer.

NEWS

Checked the mail and guess what! The SAS kit is there, the decals sheet is there, and a check for $1000 from my grandparents is there! Hehe...

Anyway, the decals look AWESOME! Very good quality, and 3 sets of em! Bedlam Creations did them for me...thx to whoever recommended them. If you need custom decals, go to them. They will even design them for you, you just give them an idea of what you want.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress23.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress22.jpg

The SAS kit is awesome!. High quality...requires very little work to get them ready. But I'm gonna make it look good in the end. I will try to get them ready and glue them on today so it's dry tomorrow.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress24.jpg

The graphix look awesome. Low quality, from SAS??? Really??? Chris been slacking off huh?

I need some decals done, do you have a link or something.

LOW QUALITY my ass, dont slag off chris's products because of your inexperience.
all they require is a little bit of scalpel work to trim off the excess flashing. resin is an extremely difficult substance to work with and i doubt you can understand the complexaties of it.
I have built many of his kits and so have many others. the only thing that separates sas from tamiya is the budget, chris creates excellent hand crafted peices that tamiya use computers to create.
Please amend your previous comments.

i dont mean to flame but do research b4 slamming his work, you could put customers off from dumb comments that are un justified.

nice car, but dont diss Chris, or you'll get your asked kicked- J/K

But seriosly, have you ever worked with resin before? I think it always needs a little work

NEWS

Checked the mail and guess what! The SAS kit is there, the decals sheet is there, and a check for $1000 from my grandparents is there! Hehe...

Anyway, the decals look AWESOME! Very good quality, and 3 sets of em! Bedlam Creations did them for me...thx to whoever recommended them. If you need custom decals, go to them. They will even design them for you, you just give them an idea of what you want.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress23.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress22.jpg

The SAS kit was pretty disappointing. Low, low quality...requires tons of work before I can attach them. But I'm gonna make it look good in the end. I will try to get them ready and glue them on today so it's dry tomorrow.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress24.jpg

This is not true at all. I am presuming that you have never worked with resin transkits before this and therefore do not have an extensive knowledge on the topic, but SAS kits are actually top notcha nd require "minimum" clean up. Every resin part, from most major manufacturers requires some clean up, mold release lines, injection marks, resin "film" etc, and require cleaning as well, to relieve of mold agent.

SAS kit offers a close-to-exact fit, unique subject matter and minimum clean up, which ranks them highly among resin trans kit manufacturers. They have resin reinforcement tabs, mounting tabs, all the openings are molded open and all the extras that you do not usually see with trans kits, so I consider their quality top notch.

Just trying to help people make good decision without relying on negative comments from inexperienced users. Once you mount the kit on your model you will see how high of qulaity Chris's kits are. Good luck.

Decals look great! not my style of design but whatever floats your boat, and i think the dragon style theme will suit this cars lines very nicely,

The SAS kit looks pretty dam good to me, I see 0 air bubbles, and a bit of flash, nothing an exacto knife and some sand paper cant fix.

SAS kits are "THE SHIT" of Resin transkits, every one of the SAS kits i have seen have had NO air bubles, NO fitment problems, Non of the parts were broken or cracked or innacurate, the only thing is the excess flash, but thats not a biggy.

I need some decals done, do you have a link or something.

http://www.bedlamcreations.com/

Progress report:

The SAS kit turned out to be great, took only a little xacto and sandpaper work to prepare them. The cutting out of the original parts was HELL! I had to use xacto... I've only cut out the hood and that took me 35 min and 2 cuts (1 pretty deep one). The SAS hood fit almost perfectly (after 15 min of 'fitting' with xacto and sandpaper). I used suepr glue to attach the hood...my fingers stuck to the car while I was holding it all together...rippin' em off was more painful than the cuts.

I will start cutting off the front bumper tomorrow morning and try to put the first coat of primer in the evening.

Meanwhile, I've partially painted the wing with Camel Yellow. The alluminum 'attach things' will be in silver (X-11) and the 'side things' will be red or black.

cool, yeah I've had bad cuts before. but ripping superglue hurts more.

Here's a pic of the car while I was trying to cut out the hood. I made those scratches after cutting myself with the exacto...damn thing!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress25.jpg

Now, both the hood and the front bumper are attached to the body, fits pretty well. I will sand off the glue tomorrow and prime the body.

Having some trouble with the wing...it looked great after painting the middle part with the body color. But after I tried to spray paint the side edges red, it got ugly - the paint leaked on the yellow... I've covered the leaks with a thick layer of the yellow, and try to fix it all tomorrow...

use lots of light scoring passes with the xacto knife. just keep going over the same area. that way it will be less stressful on the car and you will follow the panel lines easier.
Then when you think you have cut deep, hold both sides of the score marks and gently flex the plasic until it breaks cleanly. simple.

lol!!! i'd get pissed off too. but thank God i still got all my models...

anyway, good progress!! cant wait to see the custom decals.

Why not use a plastic cutter or something?

Here's the link:
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/olfablades/9171.html

The SAS kit was pretty disappointing. Low, low quality...requires tons of work before I can attach them.

I completely DISAGREE with your opinion of SAS products, and it's the first such complaint I've seen on them. I have several of his body kits and they require some minor clean up and work to attach them, never 'tons of work'. The way they fit to the bodies is as good as can be expected from any resin part producer. They are always well proportioned and always look right once installed. My :2cents:

I completely DISAGREE with your opinion of SAS products, and it's the first such complaint I've seen on them. I have several of his body kits and they require some minor clean up and work to attach them, never 'tons of work'. The way they fit to the bodies is as good as can be expected from any resin part producer. They are always well proportioned and always look right once installed. My :2cents:

I agree. What people have to understand, especially beginners, is that the resin parts are not the same as plastic kit parts. They are not as clean, and require work to trim, to fit, and to finish. It's not as easy as if it were kit-supplied injection molded parts.

Just like 1:1 cars, even a well-made aftermarket kit can give a beginner fits of madness. More work than expected. Making them feel like :banghead: I've seen some gruesome examples on the street of body kits gone bad when the owner/builder has no clue how to do it right! I'll bet a majority of the best tuners on the street are built by guys who work in bodyshops. Or have friends in bodyshops...

Some of us have a lot of years building, and an SAS kit is a breeze to install and finish. But after helping a beginner on an SAS kit, I can assure you that it's not for those who are not prepared to spend the time to do it right. Let's just say that w/o a lot of help, he would probably have never been able to finish the model to his satisfaction. SAS kits are pretty much as good as you will get with resin. But if anyone is expecting a Tamiya-like "shake the box and it comes out finished" experience, then perhaps they need to learn a few of the basics of bodywork/cutting/gluing/puttying/painting before tackling a major job like the C-West 350Z. Other SAS kits are a lot easier...like the Nismo 350Z and the Nismo Skyline GTR-34. The C-West 350Z may be the hardest, because so much has to be removed; in fact it should be done in two stages...remove front bumper first, apply new front end, then remove the hood...or vice-versa, to keep the body square-there's hardly any support when the entire front end is removed and all you have are the two front fenders and the A pillars hanging out in the breeze. I know my Kaminari Celica and Nismo Z were a lot easier than the C-West 350Z; and after fitting the Stradale parts to two Ferraris, I can say that's much easier as well. Though I haven't grafted the rear wheel tubs in yet... :icon16:

Actually, maybe a good idea would be for Chris to supply/offer some FAQ's for working w/his parts. Partially from his own experience, and partially from what he's learned from his customers. Even as simple as having a link handy to refer to building a particular car...which has been documented by several builders here.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress25.jpg


Woah dude! Settle down. Have some patience. From the deep scoring and rough, rough edges around the panel lines you are separating, and the fact you said you cut yourself with your knife, it seems to me that you are trying to remove way too much material at one time. For work like this, patience is the key. I know you don't want to hear that, and I know that you want this thing finished soon! But if you take your time, take it easy, and do it right the model will come out a lot better, not to mention saving you some wear on your fingers. Judging by that knife... it looks like you can't replace the blade... I'd say go get a new one, hopefully one that you can change the blade out on. I can actually see the dullness at the tip of that knife. You need a brand spankin' new, sharp blade. Then you need to do what Chrismcgee and I said, make MANY MANY MANY shallow passes over the panel line until it separates. If you're impatiend, to the snappy thing Chrismcgee suggested. It will make for a much cleaner separation, saving you a lot of trouble with putty later. And you really don't want putty where panel lines go, it's a pain to score lines through putty when it comes time. I know you've already done the work, and it's your last model or whatever, but maybe someone else reading through this can learn from you.

Woah dude! Settle down. Have some patience. From the deep scoring and rough, rough edges around the panel lines you are separating, and the fact you said you cut yourself with your knife, it seems to me that you are trying to remove way too much material at one time. For work like this, patience is the key. I know you don't want to hear that, and I know that you want this thing finished soon! But if you take your time, take it easy, and do it right the model will come out a lot better, not to mention saving you some wear on your fingers. Judging by that knife... it looks like you can't replace the blade... I'd say go get a new one, hopefully one that you can change the blade out on. I can actually see the dullness at the tip of that knife. You need a brand spankin' new, sharp blade. Then you need to do what Chrismcgee and I said, make MANY MANY MANY shallow passes over the panel line until it separates. If you're impatiend, to the snappy thing Chrismcgee suggested. It will make for a much cleaner separation, saving you a lot of trouble with putty later. And you really don't want putty where panel lines go, it's a pain to score lines through putty when it comes time. I know you've already done the work, and it's your last model or whatever, but maybe someone else reading through this can learn from you.

Good points...I learned them the hard way. Slowly scoring the plastic w/the backside of a fresh blade is the only way to do it right. And in the long run, it's the fastest solution because it won't require any repairs from sloppy cutting (like w/a saw or hot knife or thread). Also, don't change the direction in which you are scoring the plastic-keep going the same direction. Every time I tried scratching from the other direction, the blade caught and made a scratch. Again...patience is key. Roughly 100 passes w/a blade for each section will get good results. If you're in a hurry, do it later.

Good points...I learned them the hard way. Slowly scoring the plastic w/the backside of a fresh blade is the only way to do it right. And in the long run, it's the fastest solution because it won't require any repairs from sloppy cutting (like w/a saw or hot knife or thread). Also, don't change the direction in which you are scoring the plastic-keep going the same direction. Every time I tried scratching from the other direction, the blade caught and made a scratch. Again...patience is key. Roughly 100 passes w/a blade for each section will get good results. If you're in a hurry, do it later.

Good advice, but that's what I did...about 100 passes, but the plastic is too hard and I had to press hard on the knife too. As for the dull xacto, that's not true, The one in the pic is a new one (I have 5 of them, 2 unopened), the dullness you think you see is plastic from the car.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress26.jpg
Anyway, it's all over and with good results. I attached the 2 SAS parts with super glue. I've already sanded and polished the rough spots left from the glue and the cutting - it's ready to be primed. I'll do that in a few hours.

The wing...having some probles with that. had to sand off all the paint and re-spray it...uh uh. Will be ready tomorrow.

Just put 3 light coats of primer on the body - looks good. I totally f*cked up the wing. This is the third time I am painting it and with tha last coat, I sprayed with the can too close and put too much paint on it. It's all bubbly now. I'll leave it to dry until tomorrow and try to sand it and put one more coat. Hope that works.

I'll sand the body tomorrow before putting on another 2-3 coats. After that, I'll leave it for 24 hours until I start painting.

Check out a pic of my spray booth. Works well.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress27.jpg

From your progress, your rushing, that is a big, when I say big, I mean big like, Godzilla Big problem. Rushing leads to shoddy builds, I know, I've done plenty of them, then they ended up stripped and trashed. The SAS kit does look nice tho

From your progress, your rushing, that is a big, when I say big, I mean big like, Godzilla Big problem. Rushing leads to shoddy builds, I know, I've done plenty of them, then they ended up stripped and trashed. The SAS kit does look nice tho

In which areas am I rushing? With the wing - yes, I kinda am - but I don't see where else I am going too fast? Do you think I need to leave more tim between the coats of primer and paint? I don't have much experience, this is my second model, so feel free to give me advice.

With my first model, I didn't know anything. I put one thick coat of primer and then one coat of paint 15 min later and it turned out pretty good. I didn't have any polishing stuff then, so I polished it just today and it looks great. I think 24 hours between coats is enough. Right?

A lot of people, myself included, wait at least 24 hours before laying paint onto primer.

When priming I lay down at least 3 coats none of which are "thick". You want nice even coverage without taking away detail as there's still approx. 9 more coats (base and clear).

Definitely take your time on all coats especially prime and base. One thick coat each? When laying down base you really should do at least 2-3 sweep mist coats and then 1-2 wet coats.

Read PMan's how-to on painting. Great stuff.

This is what kind of results I get from my method. This shot doesn't even do the actual reflection justice. If the shot weren't a little blurry you'd be able to read the Japanese off the bottle.

http://www.g20.net/gallery/data/500/1250reflections.JPG

A lot of people, myself included, wait at least 24 hours before laying paint onto primer.

When priming I lay down at least 3 coats none of which are "thick". You want nice even coverage without taking away detail as there's still approx. 9 more coats (base and clear).

Definitely take your time on all coats especially prime and base. One thick coat each? When laying down base you really should do at least 2-3 sweep mist coats and then 1-2 wet coats.

Read PMan's how-to on painting. Great stuff.

This is what kind of results I get from my method. This shot doesn't even do the actual reflection justice. If the shot weren't a little blurry you'd be able to read the Japanese off the bottle.

http://www.g20.net/gallery/data/500/1250reflections.JPG
that's exactly how I do it. Just, I don't get those reflections. I lay down 4 coats of base 3 mist, 1 medium thick coat. Let dry for at least 24hrs. Maybe you should strip the wing of it's paint, sand, and start over again. The wing is the only place you've rushed, everywhere else is fine, that and on the hood and such, but I've done that before, so I can't complain there.

That's all good stuff. And that paint job is great too...I'll try to make mine as good - I just bought some polishing compund at Walmart. That and 8000 grit should work well, although 12000 would be better.

I have a question: when do I need to scrub off the paint from the lines on the body (door, hood, etc)? I've heard that it's best to do it after 2 initial coats of paint - is that right? Do I need to do it at all?

I have a question: when do I need to scrub off the paint from the lines on the body (door, hood, etc)? I've heard that it's best to do it after 2 initial coats of paint - is that right? Do I need to do it at all?


What lines are you referring too?

You should think about getting the Detail Master poilshing kit. It has 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000 grit. It's a good kit, I recommend it. Make sure to follow the instructions.

Progress looks good.
I've never scrubbed off the paint from the body lines, and my kits have been fine. I think thats just paranioa(sp) if you do that.

What lines are you referring too?

You should think about getting the Detail Master poilshing kit. It has 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000 grit. It's a good kit, I recommend it. Make sure to follow the instructions.

The body lines, as EMAXX calls them. I'm gonna pass on that polishing kit since this is my last model; I've already spent about $140 on this one.

Once you buy the polish though, you can polish about 20+ cars with it. Its really a nice little bottle to have around, to make your car look awesome.

Once you buy the polish though, you can polish about 20+ cars with it. Its really a nice little bottle to have around, to make your car look awesome.

Can you read?

Well, it's up to you but it's not expensive and if used properly the paint will be a mirror.

Your last model you say? Go out with a bang.

IMO (again...this is just my opinion) but if you spent all that money on the model and had these custom decals made up etc.etc. why scrimp on the most important part? That's just the way I feel though.

Can you read?

Please stop being rude to people. We are just trying to give you suggestions, otherwise why post ina public forum? So that everyone can praise you??

Can you read?


Why do you have to be so rude? I was just giving you a suggestion. It makes you car look nice, and only costs $7.

personaly i dont care how well this project comes out as im fed up of this guy already. its not clever to snap at people.
basicaly you can throw as much money as you want at a model but in the end if you cant make it properly then its gonna be crap!
look be nice or dont bother, we all help each other here. and we are not here to make gods of people. so play fair

Why do you have to be so rude? I was just giving you a suggestion. It makes you car look nice, and only costs $7.

Yeah alright, my bad. I was in a really bad mood at the moment - I lost my wallet with all the stuff in it.

I've used the 8000 grit and the polishing compound on my Enzo and it turned out great, I could read small text from the reflection, like that other guy's pic. So it's going to look great.

I ran into one problem this morning - the headlights and headlight 'glass' covers did not fit the SAS kit's hoo and bumper. I had to do some adjustemnts to both, the body and the parts to fit them. Fits perfectly now, except for a tiny gap.

As for the paint, I couldn't wait so I put the second 2 coats of primer late last night, and the first 2 coats of paint just an hour ago. I'll post pics a little later.

I read all 8 pages.. sweet project man. can't wait to see the finish product.

Here are some pics after 2 coats. Looks good except for the places where the SAS kit has been glued (last 2 pics). I didn't use primer after the last sanding...I know I should have :uhoh: Now, the body is visible through the paint. How can I fix this?? Will the second 2 coats cover it? That's my only hope because I don't have much paint left in that can and I can't do it over.
Thx in advance.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress30.jpghttp://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress28.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress32.jpghttp://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/112163progress31.jpg

I don't know what to say, except, buy another can at LHS and do several more, light coats, and then apply decals, then clear or dullcoat it.

Dude.....you have to take your time. Patience pays out divedends when the model is finally complete.

I personally would strip the paint, work the putty or glue (or whatever is on the hood and fenders) level, re-scribe the hood line and then prime. Good body prep. is a must if you want it to look good. One thing to always know is that paint won't hide things.

When I cut up a body :evillol: I use sewing thread back and forth like a saw it makes a much finer line to cut and takes alot less time.

If you keep adding new coats of paint, it will end up losing all the detail and the panel lines will get washed out if you're not careful. If it were me, I'd strip it and start over. But then, if it were me, I'd strip it and start over just so I could clean up the spots where the resin meets the styrene and rescribe the panel lines around the hood and betweent headlamps and wheel wells. Transkits are very ambitious and no matter how good they are take quite a bit of work to fit perfectly. I think most people here would agree (it's been said a few times) that you are rushing this project. Something with this scope should be tackled with great patience. Doing something perfect the first time will prevent you from having to undo and redo things a second time.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but this is your second model. Just becuase it is your last and because you threw a lot of money at it you've won awards in design doesn't guarantee you a perfect model. I've built close to 20 and mine are still far from how good I want them to be, and I'm sure everyone here, no matter their level of skill, feels the same. Everyone is aspiring to a greater level. I'm not trying to flame you or fuss you or be rude at all, but the impression I've gotten from all your posts is that you think you've got incredible skill and ability. Granted, your first and second models are coming along much better than most of our first and second (unpainted, almost solid glue bombs from me at age 10), but you are still a beginner. I don't care how much natural skill you have, nothin replaces practice and experience. What we do here on this forum is try to help out new modellers with our collected experience. Posting your progress like you are doing can help highlight errors a modeller encounters, and share skills with others looking to learn. At the same time, people watching your progress can offer advice and help. What aggrevates me is that we've given you plenty of advice that you've ignored. Why? I don't know. But we don't give out advice for our health, we do it because we want modellers to get better. Models aren't a competition... ok well sometimes they can be, but it's friendly competition to raise the bar and help drive up the level of skill and amount of knowledge in the community. We wouldn't check in and watch the progress of this car if we didn't think it had potential, but if all the great, FREE information is going to waste, what's the point of coming here to show your build? You've had very little to say about the construction beyond the cost of the build and misinformation.

Anyway, I'm going to continue to check in on this model becuase I was promised the best 350Z ever. I'll be sorely dissappointed if this is not the case. I hate to say it, but so far I'm not really all that impressed.