Clifford remote starter in 95 aurora??? anyone?

Hi, I had a remote starter put in by Best Buy. It is a Clifford RS 3.5. It has remote start and alarm. It is the nicest one that Best Buy sells. The problem I am having is when I bought it, I asked the tech to hook up the rear defrosters so when you hit two keys at the same time, it will make the rear defrosters come on from the remote. The thing is that it doesn't work when they are done. I have taken it back their 3 times. They would mess around with it all day and then tell me it is fixed for me to get it home and find out it isnt. It isn't any better than when I first brought it to them. They said they put the meter to the wires that go to the defroster and they have power. But the glass never gets warm. When you push the button in the car, the glass gets warm. Today I had another appointment for them to look at it again to get it to work. Today they said they don't know and not to come back. That ticked me off a little bit. I spend $500 on a remote starter and they won't get it to work for me.

But does anyone know exactly how it is suppose to be wired in a 95 Aurora so that when you push the unlock and trunk simutaniously, it turns on an aux channel that activates the rear defrosters. If someone can explain it to me, then I will have to take my car apart and verify the wiring. What wires are suppose to have voltage at what times. And, if possible, what color the wires are.

Has anyone had any experience with this car and got this option to work?

ONE LESSON TO ALL IS NEVER HAVE BEST BUY INSTALL SOMETHING. THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING!!!!

Ooooh boy.....I wouldn't want a couple of 18 year old hacks touching my wiring! Even in a hard freeze my defrost works in clearing the glass within about 90 seconds. Are you in that much of a hurry to risk further damage, now or in the future, to your electrical system?

wel your first mistake was taking it to best buy. I've had nothing but problems there. I would go find a car audio place around you, but not a large chain. find someone local. What I've encountered when I go to those places is that the owner used to be some engineer or something of that nature and they know what the hell they are doing. so thats my advice, i would never mess with best buy again. matter of fact I would take that back and have a local car audio shop do it.

Hi, I had a remote starter put in by Best Buy. It is a Clifford RS 3.5. It has remote start and alarm. It is the nicest one that Best Buy sells. The problem I am having is when I bought it, I asked the tech to hook up the rear defrosters so when you hit two keys at the same time, it will make the rear defrosters come on from the remote. The thing is that it doesn't work when they are done. I have taken it back their 3 times. They would mess around with it all day and then tell me it is fixed for me to get it home and find out it isnt. It isn't any better than when I first brought it to them. They said they put the meter to the wires that go to the defroster and they have power. But the glass never gets warm. When you push the button in the car, the glass gets warm. Today I had another appointment for them to look at it again to get it to work. Today they said they don't know and not to come back. That ticked me off a little bit. I spend $500 on a remote starter and they won't get it to work for me.

But does anyone know exactly how it is suppose to be wired in a 95 Aurora so that when you push the unlock and trunk simutaniously, it turns on an aux channel that activates the rear defrosters. If someone can explain it to me, then I will have to take my car apart and verify the wiring. What wires are suppose to have voltage at what times. And, if possible, what color the wires are.

Has anyone had any experience with this car and got this option to work?

ONE LESSON TO ALL IS NEVER HAVE BEST BUY INSTALL SOMETHING. THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING!!!!

I feel funny sticking up for the big chains but usually for a normal install, they CAN be OK at times. Defrosters seem to screw them up though!

Anyway, what you need to do is find the status output from the 3.5 (I'll show you where to find that a little later). Also, need to get behind the defroster switch so you can test the wires. You need to find the wire that either goes to - or + when you press it. Most GM cars are - pulses. That inturn, makes a latching relay click on for a few minutes. What you need to do is mimic that switch. So, you say then just hook those together and go right? Well, not really. You'll have to make sure that the 3.5 is setup to turn things on with the status output wire. For that, you'll need to get into programming.

If after you confirm and do all of the above and it still doesn't work, you may need to use a relay in order to get it to work. I do not think you will need it though.

For the info on the 3.5, goto www.directed.com and then goto guides. You will pick install and then look at what you need. Let me know if you need anything else by emailing me. :iceslolan

That way, after tearing your dash apart, you can get a big head start on that lengthy defrost procedure!

Installing a remote starter and getting it to operate everything you want on an Aurora can be complicated. But it's not hard. Most of the remote starterm manufacturers have really good technical inofrmation on their websites. The technical information usually lists wire colors and where certain wires are located. If you want to spend the time to hook up the rear window defrost be ready for a few cussing moments. With these cars its seems that you can't ever get your hands where they need to be and your always bent some unusual way. Also, once you find the wires and get them connected so that they do what you want make sure you take the time to solder them (you don't want to have to go back in if the wires come loose). I would suggest leaving the defroster alone and hooking up the AC/Heater control. This way the care will be warm and the windows defrosted. Not to mentioned almost every remote started manufacturer has detailed instructions for that hookup.

I think I'd wanna hook up the heated seats lol and just leave the heat on when I shut the car off.
Until then I'm the remote I just go out and start it up and lock a key in the car running. Then I come out and pop the lock with the remote and get in

I don't need to hook up the AC/heater control. It is already working. My car has climate control so it automatically does whatever it needs (whether it needs air or heat to get to whatever temp it is set to). And my remote start manufacturer doesn't have a lot of instructions on their website. I bought a clifford rsx3.5 which is the best one that clifford sells. (cost me over $500. But it does have a 1/4 mile range.) Clifford doesn't recommend that the average person installs it. In fact, they void the warranty if they find out that the average joe installed it. You have to be a certified tech. So there are no detailed instructions unless you have access to the dealer's tech notes (which I don't). But Best Buy won't do it (which I paid them to do), so if I want to have it hooked up, I have to do it.


Installing a remote starter and getting it to operate everything you want on an Aurora can be complicated. But it's not hard. Most of the remote starterm manufacturers have really good technical inofrmation on their websites. The technical information usually lists wire colors and where certain wires are located. If you want to spend the time to hook up the rear window defrost be ready for a few cussing moments. With these cars its seems that you can't ever get your hands where they need to be and your always bent some unusual way. Also, once you find the wires and get them connected so that they do what you want make sure you take the time to solder them (you don't want to have to go back in if the wires come loose). I would suggest leaving the defroster alone and hooking up the AC/Heater control. This way the care will be warm and the windows defrosted. Not to mentioned almost every remote started manufacturer has detailed instructions for that hookup.

Mine doesn't have heated seats. Oh well.

I think I'd wanna hook up the heated seats lol and just leave the heat on when I shut the car off.
Until then I'm the remote I just go out and start it up and lock a key in the car running. Then I come out and pop the lock with the remote and get in

I tried to e-mail you but it tells me that you have chosen not to allow people to e-mail you. But I ripped open my dash and found the wire on my remote start that says it is for rear defrost. I checked the voltage on the wire when it is active and it is around -10 volts. (negative)
My rear defrosters had around -10 volts when the button was pushed. So I found the wire that went to the rear defroster button and then skinned off some of the insulation on the wire and hooked up to the wire on the remote starter. I tried remote starting and it never turned on my rear defrosters. I was a little puzzled. Any more ideas?


I feel funny sticking up for the big chains but usually for a normal install, they CAN be OK at times. Defrosters seem to screw them up though!

Anyway, what you need to do is find the status output from the 3.5 (I'll show you where to find that a little later). Also, need to get behind the defroster switch so you can test the wires. You need to find the wire that either goes to - or + when you press it. Most GM cars are - pulses. That inturn, makes a latching relay click on for a few minutes. What you need to do is mimic that switch. So, you say then just hook those together and go right? Well, not really. You'll have to make sure that the 3.5 is setup to turn things on with the status output wire. For that, you'll need to get into programming.

If after you confirm and do all of the above and it still doesn't work, you may need to use a relay in order to get it to work. I do not think you will need it though.

For the info on the 3.5, goto www.directed.com and then goto guides. You will pick install and then look at what you need. Let me know if you need anything else by emailing me. :iceslolan

I tried to e-mail you but it tells me that you have chosen not to allow people to e-mail you. But I ripped open my dash and found the wire on my remote start that says it is for rear defrost. I checked the voltage on the wire when it is active and it is around -10 volts. (negative)
My rear defrosters had around -10 volts when the button was pushed. So I found the wire that went to the rear defroster button and then skinned off some of the insulation on the wire and hooked up to the wire on the remote starter. I tried remote starting and it never turned on my rear defrosters. I was a little puzzled. Any more ideas?

OK, so you say that the wire is neg. triggered? Did you try to manually ground that wire to see if it works that way when it is running with the key? If it works, try it again when you remote start it. If it works, do this.... Check to see if you are getting a (-) pulse out of the remote.

Did you program the remote to be a constant output? Remember that this wire turns on only AFTER 10 SECONDS.

http://directed.com/guides/manuals/ig/clifford/N919564_6-03.pdf

Page 42 gets into the programming modes. I think yours is 3-10. You'll need to figure if you need a latched or pulsed ouput. To get to menu 3-10, you will turn the ignition on with the key then shut it off. Then, press and hold the valet button until you hear it beep 3 times. Then release it then press it again 11 times. On the 11th time, hold it. You'll hear it beep 11 times. Then you can use your remotes to choose what you need. Make sure to hold the valet button in when you do this. :evillol:

See, I didn't think that was what negatively triggered meant. From what I understand is the power wire goes from neutral to -12v when it is active, rather than if it was positive triggered, from 0 to 12 volts. The ground wire should be ground all the time. Or am I wrong on that? So I was trying to hook this up to the power wire and not a ground wire. I found the wire in the dash that went to -10 volts when I pushed the defroster button and hooked the wire to that wire. But it did nothing. I did wait well over the 10 seconds after it was remote started. (A few minutes.) Right now I believe that my remote starter is programmed for pulse output and not constant output. But the more I think about it, it seemed like the wire had a constant 10 volts when I took the reading. Would that make a difference? If I pushed the defroster button in the car and just never let it go, it would have a constant voltage going to it and I bet my defrosters would still turn on. Now do I have the idea of what the difference of pulse versus constant right? A pulse would just go to 10 or 12 volts for a sec or two and then drop back to 0 volts. Where as constant would stay at the 12 volts while the starter was active. It would make sense to pulse it because I am trying to mimic pushing the button and when you push the button, I don't hold it in indefinitely. I push it and release it. So a pulse would sould fit for the need.

OK, so you say that the wire is neg. triggered? Did you try to manually ground that wire to see if it works that way when it is running with the key? If it works, try it again when you remote start it. If it works, do this.... Check to see if you are getting a (-) pulse out of the remote.

Did you program the remote to be a constant output? Remember that this wire turns on only AFTER 10 SECONDS.

http://directed.com/guides/manuals/ig/clifford/N919564_6-03.pdf

Page 42 gets into the programming modes. I think yours is 3-10. You'll need to figure if you need a latched or pulsed ouput. To get to menu 3-10, you will turn the ignition on with the key then shut it off. Then, press and hold the valet button until you hear it beep 3 times. Then release it then press it again 11 times. On the 11th time, hold it. You'll hear it beep 11 times. Then you can use your remotes to choose what you need. Make sure to hold the valet button in when you do this. :evillol:

The rear window defrost circuit is a timed circuit. You push the button and you're closing the loop for the 10 minute preset. I think it's "hot" all the time, that's why you're seeing a draw when you push it. Are you taking this into consideration? The timer is always going to interrupt your remotes command.

To be honest, I am not an electronics genious. I don't know a lot about electronics. So I am not sure how to take that into consideration. So I guess my answer is no and I am not sure what to do then. Can you explain how you would go about wiring it to take that into consideration.

The rear window defrost circuit is a timed circuit. You push the button and you're closing the loop for the 10 minute preset. I think it's "hot" all the time, that's why you're seeing a draw when you push it. Are you taking this into consideration? The timer is always going to interrupt your remotes command.
Some car's defrost triggers are a little wierd. Like on a '99 Sierra, I had to change the remote to "latched for 10min" for it to work while on a '01 Infinity QX4 I did pulsed.

See, I didn't think that was what negatively triggered meant. From what I understand is the power wire goes from neutral to -12v when it is active, rather than if it was positive triggered, from 0 to 12 volts. The ground wire should be ground all the time. Or am I wrong on that? So I was trying to hook this up to the power wire and not a ground wire. I found the wire in the dash that went to -10 volts when I pushed the defroster button and hooked the wire to that wire. But it did nothing. I did wait well over the 10 seconds after it was remote started. (A few minutes.) Right now I believe that my remote starter is programmed for pulse output and not constant output. But the more I think about it, it seemed like the wire had a constant 10 volts when I took the reading. Would that make a difference? If I pushed the defroster button in the car and just never let it go, it would have a constant voltage going to it and I bet my defrosters would still turn on. Now do I have the idea of what the difference of pulse versus constant right? A pulse would just go to 10 or 12 volts for a sec or two and then drop back to 0 volts. Where as constant would stay at the 12 volts while the starter was active. It would make sense to pulse it because I am trying to mimic pushing the button and when you push the button, I don't hold it in indefinitely. I push it and release it. So a pulse would sould fit for the need.

Yeah, I think you are on the right track. I usually never talk about -10 volts or anything like that. It is usually understood that a ground is a ground unless otherwise specified. One thing to consider is that the remote start's output is only like 200mv which means it can not take too much amperage.

The output of the remote is a ground (-). You said you thought it had 10v but it doesn't. It may have read that if you had the meter hooked up to 12v+ on the other side. You have to make sure what the remote is doing either pulse or latched. Then mimic that to the car's wire. Now, since we've had all kinds of people mess around here, there could be a chance that the ouput is mess up.

Now, not to confuse you anymore but if I only need a pulsed output and didn't hook up trunk release, I would use the red/white wire from the remote to actuate the rear defrost. That way, it would only work when you wanted it to. Don't usually need defrost when it is sunny and 95 outside. :rolleyes:

So to conclude everything from what everyone said, what wire should I hook up the blue/white wire that is on the remote starter? The blue/white wire is (-) 200 mA. Its description is status/rear defogger- latched/pulsed. You can program it to latch or pulse with the programming in the starter. But what wire should I hook that up to? And should I have it on latched or pulsed? I already tried hooking it up to the wire that gave a -12v when I pressed the defroster button and it didn't do anything. But I am not sure if it was on latched or pulsed.


Yeah, I think you are on the right track. I usually never talk about -10 volts or anything like that. It is usually understood that a ground is a ground unless otherwise specified. One thing to consider is that the remote start's output is only like 200mv which means it can not take too much amperage.

The output of the remote is a ground (-). You said you thought it had 10v but it doesn't. It may have read that if you had the meter hooked up to 12v+ on the other side. You have to make sure what the remote is doing either pulse or latched. Then mimic that to the car's wire. Now, since we've had all kinds of people mess around here, there could be a chance that the ouput is mess up.

Now, not to confuse you anymore but if I only need a pulsed output and didn't hook up trunk release, I would use the red/white wire from the remote to actuate the rear defrost. That way, it would only work when you wanted it to. Don't usually need defrost when it is sunny and 95 outside. :rolleyes:

So to conclude everything from what everyone said, what wire should I hook up the blue/white wire that is on the remote starter? The blue/white wire is (-) 200 mA. Its description is status/rear defogger- latched/pulsed. You can program it to latch or pulse with the programming in the starter. But what wire should I hook that up to? And should I have it on latched or pulsed? I already tried hooking it up to the wire that gave a -12v when I pressed the defroster button and it didn't do anything. But I am not sure if it was on latched or pulsed.

Well, that wire that changed it's state to (-) on the car should be the one you need to hook the blue/white wire to. Make sure that the blue/white wire actually does what it is suppose to do. Test it and program it if needed.