im new, i got a daytona cs

hey guys been reading over these forums the last....coupel days?..i've been interested cause me and my dad just baught a 1990 daytona cs with only 66k. i've read a bit of upgrades here and ther and what not..im thinking if i get upgrades i would start with a MP computer..any objections?.. or suggestions on what would be better for a 17 year old student to perform to increase hp/speed/power. And i no this question has been answered a bunch, but is ther a small list someone could put together of cheap upgrades doing differences in teh HP department.(dont go outa your way).

anyways i'll try to upload a pic and hopefully it aint too big..lookin forward to readin this forums more often..

Jay

What engine does that have? Turbo?

If it's a 2.2 or 2.5 turbo, than go to www.FWDperformance.com and go to ECU calibrations. Their ECU's are better than Mopars. Then focus on your exhaust. If you have a 2.2L a 2.5'' exhaust will be enough. If you have a 2.5L go with the full 3'' turbo back exhaust. Just the exaust system will give you 15-20 HP after you've added the stage 1 calibration ECU. After those 2 mods, if you have the 2.5L, you should get an intercooler.

its a 2.5 turbo
so would i need to get the 3" downpipe and a 3" super turbo muffler? 1 or the other..both?..im almost clueless..

another quick question being: my friend told me that before turning off a turbo'ed car..it should idle for a min or so..he says it ruins the turbo if it doesnt?..any truth to this?

Depending on where you live, emissions may require you to have a cat converter. If not, use the test pipe. You need, downpipe, cat, cat-back pipes, and muffler from their site. For 2.5'' it all adds up to 300 dollars, for 3'' it adds up to 400 dollars.

Yes you need to let your car ''idle down'' after driving. The more aggresive your driving was the more you should let ot idle down. The housing of the turbo can get so hot it glows red, so shutting off the car right away it will cool down too quicky. Often causing the housing to crack, and burning up the bearings in the turbo.

never heard of a daytona cs. can you post a pic of your car? unless it was a typo and you meant to say es :)

nm.. just looked it up. Daytona C/S, i think all daytonas should have been equipped like this one, it was only $187 more..

good find bowza ;)

Ah yes, the daytona cs, I have one of those, beautiful car. The CS stands for carol shelby, the god of affordable speed!! Cheap mods are, get a bleeder valve and put it in the vacumme line going to your wastegate! it's like $25 and it allows you to adjust your boost. I'll try to find a link later that shows you exactly how to do it, and it can give you anywhere from 5-100hp, depending on how you adjust it and how much risk your willing to take!! Raise the boost to 17psi and you should be safe, any higher and you risk blowing a headgasket! ( I have my shelby charger running at 22psi... I always have a spare headgasket on hand, but I haven't had to change it yet...knock on wood!!)
goto www.thedodgegarage.com (http://www.thedodgegarage.com) Theres a ton of stuff there that you can do to up your hp a bit! Have fun!! :)

1st thing is 1st, make sure you have a boost guage so you know how many reliable psi you can run. Also look into a upgraded turbo, fuel, ignition, exhaust, intake. Whatever fits your budget. Also invest in a turbo timer. It lets the car idle for a few minutes to let the turbo cool down. Since turbos are oil cooled if you shut the car off all that hot oil sets in the turbo and can ruin the seals. Letting the car run for a few minutes helps cool the oil before shutting it off so it saves your turbo. I #1 of 7704 made and im parting it out. If anyone needs parts let me know. [email protected] Or see my post.

I would go with that PWMAN has suggested except I wouldn't bother with a muffler, you don't really need one. Also make all the pipe is mandrel bent. As for the turbo timer, why waste money on something you can do for free?

As for the turbo timer, why waste money on something you can do for free?

I agree, those are only for lazy people. Save that 100+ dollars, and buy other performance stuff.
Yeah you don't really need the muffler, I am currently running straight pipe with a HFC. Not loud at all. And it's a good aggressive tone too.

The very first thing you should do is buy yourself a bottle of fuel injector cleaner, make sure that no cylinders are going to be running lean when you go to up the boost.
Here's a cheap way to get 5-10 HP-Buy a universal KN filter, go to home depot and buy some kind of ducting that is easily flexable and route it somewhere it will pick up cold air. The filter will cost 35 dollars from FWDperformance, and the pipe probably 10-15 dollars.
So here's the recipe- do the intake and exhaust mods first. Then get the FWDperformance stage 1 calibration. Then look at forms of intercooling, that will give good gains if you get a front mount one. But just with the intake/exhaust/ECU calibration you should have 50 HP over stock. Then add the IC, and get anywhere from 15-50 more HP.

Lazy people? So if your in a hurry and late for work/school/appointment or whatever and you beat the shit out of your car to get there.... Do you think you want to wait another 3 minutes just sitting in your car? no! Im sure you will turn it right off saying "Oh one time wont matter" Beileve me I have had 4 turbo cars, and only 2 had turbo timers. The turbos that didnt have turbo timers went under 100k miles. The ones that did..... Well my MR2 turbo has 130k miles stock turbo, and my supra has 140k miles stock turbo. You can find them used for under $100. One of mine I picked up for $60. Better then spending a few hundred $$$ for a new/used turbo, especially if your turbo is upgraded or bigger. Dont want to waste $1000 now do we?

\Lazy people? So if your in a hurry and late for work/school/appointment or whatever and you beat the shit out of your car to get there.... Do you think you want to wait another 3 minutes just sitting in your car? no! Im sure you will turn it right off saying "Oh one time wont matter" Beileve me I have had 4 turbo cars, and only 2 had turbo timers. The turbos that didnt have turbo timers went under 100k miles. The ones that did..... Well my MR2 turbo has 130k miles stock turbo, and my supra has 140k miles stock turbo. You can find them used for under $100. One of mine I picked up for $60. Better then spending a few hundred $$$ for a new/used turbo, especially if your turbo is upgraded or bigger. Dont want to waste $1000 now do we?

If the turbo goes it was your own fault. The problem with turbo timers are the fact that if you have a car alarm you have to wait anyway because you can't activate the alarm while the car is still running. The other thing is that driving fast doesn't use the turbo, accelerating fast does. When you're at speed the turbo isn't boosting. My LeBaron GTC had 152,000 miles on it with the original turbo boosting 13 PSI. It would have lasted longer had it not been totaled in a car accident. The point is that I never used a turbo timer. If I had been really rough on the car I would drive around normally for a few min then pull in and let the car idle for about thirty seconds. If I had just driven normally I just let it idle for about 30 seconds before shutting it off. I also don't care much for devices that splice into the ignition. You’re only looking for problems. I am sorry but it is just my opinion that turbo timers are a waste of money. If you’re running late, big deal, if you can be fifteen minutes late you can be fifteen minutes early. I just feel that I could think of a lot of things that would be better to spend one hundred bucks on.

Ahh polygon you beat me to it. I was going to say the same thing, that not every time you drive you have to let it idle for 5 minutes. In fact, I don't think you EVER need to idle for 5 minutes after driving. That is a long freakin time, the car almost warms up in 5 minutes. Most of the time I only do about 30 seconds like Polygon said, because I just puddle jump in my Daytona mostly. The longest I've ever idled down was probably about 3 minutes, only because I specifically hammered the car on that particular drive. 3 minutes is plenty no matter how you drive, 30 seconds should be a minimum though.

Brand new turbo timer buy it now price of $49.99 There are some under that. Even though you may not use your turbo under loan, it is still oil cooled.

Even though you may not use your turbo under loan, it is still oil cooled.

By not putting the turbo under load it didn't heat the oil up as much, because the turbine didn't get very hot-therefore not needing as long to cool down.

True but even driving to the gas station and back, or to the store and back you should idel it at least 30 seconds. I rather just spend $40 for a turbo timer and not worry about it. Set it to whatever you want, plus it looks cool in your car. Then you know if you forget to do it it doesnt matter cause you have a timer.

Well if you can get one for less than $50, than yeah it's worth it.

Still, there is the problem if you have a car alarm.

I have 2 on my MR2 and as long as you know what your doing and follow directions there are no problems. Just dont do splicing wires if you dont know what your doing or you will have problems. Or pay a shop $20 to do it for you. Should only take about 30 mins

hey guys i just sorta forgot about posting lately prolly cause i was just new and didnt get into the forum as much as i expected i would..but im back and i got a pic witch hopefully works..not the greatest but more to come..and for bazil yea your correct and im correct its a dodge daytona CS..in 1990 they only built 201 autos and 200 standards..totalling 401 productions of my car came off the line..with 66k i find it pretty rare as well ..ima probably do PWMAN suggested about the recipe of what goes in the car first. I'd still like a nice grunt to the car thou..can i get a grunt without installing a muffler?..in the end i just want a nice grunt and the performance that u outlined would be ownage..but would it be possible to go with a stage 2 ecu? and if i went stage 2 i would need stronger 'parts' to make the car not wear its 'parts'.. :naughty: http://www.geocities.com/jtrinca3/100_07501.jpg

hm..guess i cant upload off geocities.. o well

http://www.geocities.com/jtrinca3/100_07501.jpg

Normally with any car you need supporting mods for certain mods. Like if you are going with the upgraded ECU it probably just changes your A/F curves a little and makes them more aggressive. Just optimizes it for higher performance. You could then run a few more lbs of boost since you will be getting a more better A/F ratio out of it. Go with some sort of high flow intake and free that exhaust up a little just like you would any other car. Thats good for quite a few more horses. Also remember the colder that air is the less you will be heat soaking (if intercooled) and less you have to worry about detenation.

im just wondering if anybody knew the torque my 90 turbo cs produces..its the 2.5 L engine with approx 152 hp or so?..ty

Yeah, it was 210 ft/lbs for the 2.5L Turbo I.

Yeah, it was 210 ft/lbs for the 2.5L Turbo I.

That was only if he has the ''high torque'' version. Just the regular 2.5 T1's had 180 ft/lbs. only 91 and 92 got the high torque version and it only came with a maual trans. So he has 150 HP and 180 ft/lbs.

That was only if he has the ''high torque'' version. Just the regular 2.5 T1's had 180 ft/lbs. only 91 and 92 got the high torque version and it only came with a maual trans. So he has 150 HP and 180 ft/lbs.

Well, I guess you learn something new everyday.

i dont got all the money in the world but first im gonna get a muffler for my car..im thinking of going with a dynomax ultra flow ss or welded..should i go with this or a different/better? brand (sound and hp wize)...thx

i dont got all the money in the world but first im gonna get a muffler for my car..im thinking of going with a dynomax ultra flow ss or welded..should i go with this or a different/better? brand (sound and hp wize)...thx

No muffler at all, it's not loud. I did it.
It's the cheapest!

would this guys t2 IC work on my 2.5 ..he lives in same city as me..and im gonna need an IC..im thinkin of gettin it..is this a reasonable IC for my car..thx

used intercooler (http://www.turbododge.com/showthread.php?threadid=42312)

would this guys t2 IC work on my 2.5 ..he lives in same city as me..and im gonna need an IC..im thinkin of gettin it..is this a reasonable IC for my car..thx

used intercooler (http://www.turbododge.com/showthread.php?threadid=42312)


Not just the IC, you need the IC and radiator combo. T2's radiators are smaller but thicker to make room for the IC.

If I were you I wouldn't buy a stock IC. I mean, if you a not good on the cash flow it might be a better option. But the stock IC doesn't flow very well and isn't very efficient. Look for a FMIC, although you may need to get the T2 radiator(no IC, but you need the brackets) to fit the piping in. Look for one with the inlet and outlet on the same side, like this one:
http://www.fwdperformance.com/Store/Product.asp?IDCatalog=64&ProductID=174