Which red for Enzo??

I'm confused :confused:

In the assembly guide of the Tamiya ferrari enzo it says to spray paint the body with Tamiya ts-8, Italian red.

But if I wan't to airbrush it, which colour should I use then?
The assembly guide also says to get x-7 red, but it doesn't say Italian red. :screwy: Is it the same color?

Could someone help me out?

what you could do is drain the paint from the can and use it for your airbrush... there is a tutorial here (http://www.briansmodelcars.com/tutorials/tutorial.asp?TutorialID=3&CurPage=1)

Thanks but I can't get hold of the spraypaint so that won't help me...

Doe's anyone know the answer to my question?

Thanks but I can't get hold of the spraypaint so that won't help me...

Doe's anyone know the answer to my question?
o srry i thot u had it.... for your other ? i have found that it not not exactly the same but is very very close.... i cant tell the diff. from a far and barely from close up... just my thoughts

X-7 is slightly brighter than TS8, but it will look good on Enzo.
http://www.cobracolors.com sells authentic Ferrari rosso corsa and rosso scuderia used on real Enzo's, you may check them. Their paints are wonderful and ready for airbrush (premixed).

Alex

Thanks! Unfortunately their homepage doesn't work..

I'm guessing that you have been on their homepage so I thought I would ask if their paints are expensive compared to Tamiyas paints?

Yeah, the Cobra Colors site appears to have gone under. Even when they were up and running they wouldn't ship outside the USA :mad:

As Zcaithaca said X-7 Red is a reasonable match for TS-8 Italian Red. Although there are plenty of other Italian/Ferrari Reds by other companies out there that would do just as well.

Is there some kind of colorchart with different ferrari colors, by other "companies", that I could look at? Thanks!

Go into your local car shop, they'll have 100s of different reds and pick the one you think looks closest to Ferrari red. Most shops do a colour match if you're that desperate so take a pic of the enzo with you.

Do it is TS-8 then paint the whole inside of the body black.
This will help to darken the red up and give's it a very nice looking red.
This is what i done with mine and was very pleased how it turned out.

X-7 is slightly brighter than TS8, but it will look good on Enzo.
http://www.cobracolors.com sells authentic Ferrari rosso corsa and rosso scuderia used on real Enzo's, you may check them. Their paints are wonderful and ready for airbrush (premixed).

Alex

Alex,
Leon Tuft closed CobraColors about 2 years ago. Mike Kookaba took over the business, selling pre-thinned PPG paints, but the lack of interest has also forced Mike to close KoobaColors as well...

hth,
Bill

Well, if you use X8 without having another car shot with TS8 near, you won't tell the difference but yes, it's slightly lighter. So mist the X8 with X1 and you be OK. In which concentration... I don't know but a very light darkering should be neccessary... maybe 5 drops in the whole acrylics jar could be enough. Maybe I'll try this but no today my good friend (meaning that it won't be this month either)... I'm on the 67 Corvette I'm supposed to finish for next year "PRE 70 contest". EWwwwwwh, Testor paint on that babe. What a mess ! But result is "$"$/%" good.

Thanks! I'll try it out on some other peace of plastic first, when I get the paints. :smile:

The difference between X-7 and TS-8 is hardly worth the effort of trying to darken the X-7 -unless you have other cars painted TS-8 that you will display next to you Enzo. If you paint the car with X-7, it will be a terrific looking red. If you paint the car with TS-8, it will be a terrific looking red. If you paint the car with Acryl Guards Red, it will be a terrific looking red. Unless you have an actual Ferrari painted in Rosso Corsa to place your model on, trying to exactly match the perfect Ferrari red is an excercise in madness. :screwy:

Two reasons to never listen to an 'expert' opinion about why this red is wrong, and another is right in modeling:

1. Scale Color- A full size car has much more surface area, and collects (and reflects) more light than a 1/24 scale model. Therefore, a model painted with the absolute perfect match color of the full size car will look a bit too dark. To my knowledge, no one has yet devised an objective formula to correct for this. So, by definition, right is a little bit off.

2. Pictures Lie. Period. It is impossible to use a photograph as an accurate color reference. Inconsistency in film, processing techniques, lighting of subject, lighting of photograph, etc will guarantee that the red on a picture of a Ferrari is not the same as the red on a Ferrari.

The only right is what looks right to you. So, paint it with the X-7 (or the TS-8, if you can find), and you'll probably be happy with the results.
:thumbsup:

Now there's an answer I like. I have no experince in paintmixing and I wouldn't wan't to get into that right now. I just wan't to make my first 1/24 car without any "custom" paintmixes, nice and simple. I might try it out after I have gotten some experince in building models. I think it's better if I, for starters, learn how to use an airbrush.

But thanks everyone for your advice anyway! :smile:

Alex,
Leon Tuft closed CobraColors about 2 years ago. Mike Kookaba took over the business, selling pre-thinned PPG paints, but the lack of interest has also forced Mike to close KoobaColors as well...

hth,
Bill

That is a shame, but no wonder since they ignored half the potential market by not catering to customers outside the USA.

Glad to be of help! :thumbsup:

Wow, so the Enzo is your first kit? You do jump in with both feet, don't you?!

Well, it's my first car kit. I made motorcycle last year, a Tamiya suzuki hayabuza, and it wen't quite well.

Why? Is the Enzo hard to build?

I like kits with alot of nice details, engine etc. and the Ferraris are great examples. + they're good looking. :biggrin:

Almost all other kits, except the ferraris, seem too simple. The doors can't be opened, some have no engine etc. Looks too much like a "toy" car.

Maybe I ask too much, but that's what I think. Maybe I'll change my mind if i build one.

That is a shame, but no wonder since they ignored half the potential market by not catering to customers outside the USA.

RR,
I don't think it was a case of not catering, but rather an inability to do so because of strict shipping guidelines about shipping outside the US...IIRC, you cannot airmail an unsealed flammable (without going through so many hoops as to make it non-cost effective). I _think_ OEM spray cans are exempt.

Agreed about it being a shame...his PPG clear was awesome!

Bill

RR,
I don't think it was a case of not catering, but rather an inability to do so because of strict shipping guidelines about shipping outside the US...IIRC, you cannot airmail an unsealed flammable (without going through so many hoops as to make it non-cost effective). I _think_ OEM spray cans are exempt.

Agreed about it being a shame...his PPG clear was awesome!

Bill

You're probably right Bill, I seem to recall the rules in the US have become even more stingent recently. Although many other companies are happy to ship paints, perhaps they are "bending" the rules?

No, not hard. Just more complicated than most. But if that's what you're looking for, it's certainly a terrific kit. You'll get lots of practice with the airbrush, on the engine, suspension, interior, etc.

It's just, well, once you've built the Enzo, there aren't alot of other 1/24 kits that will compare!

It seems like you have built the Enzo..or am I wrong?
I've heard different ways to paint the interior, engine etc.

Should I first assemble the engine and then paint it or should I paint first? (I mean parts that are painted with the same color),should I assemble them first?

And another thing I've heard is to paint the parts when they're still in the "tree" but is that really a smart thing to do? I mean, isn't there a spot without paint when you cut it off?

I can't paint the entire interior and engine with an airbrush, can I? I mean, there seems to be alot of really small things to paint. Am I suppose to paint those with a brush?

When can I put on masking tape after painting? For how long should it dry?

I know, alot of questions but I reallly wan't to get it right. I wan't to avoid messing it up because i "didn't know". :nono:

Thanks! :biggrin:

Well, built implies some degree of completeness.... :rolleyes: Really, at this point, I'm still deciding just how much detail to put into it (full CF decal treatment or no, turned aluminum shock absorbers or just painted brass tubing, etc.)

Some people like to paint parts while still on the tree. I never do. Reason one is like you said, when you cut the part off of the tree, you have to paint where you clipped. Reason two is that paint has to be scraped off of any surface to be glued, and it's far too easy to mess up a painted surface with cement. Especially on multi part assemblies like the engine, build it first, then paint the first color, mask if necissary, and paint the second color. This allows you to correct any fit problems, fill any seams, etc before painting.

I airbrush nearly everything. Probably 97% of the paint I apply is by airbrush. I only brushpaint fine details, and I apply washes by brush (obviously). I hate brushstrokes in my paintwork. :disappoin So, I do alot of masking. Tamiya tape is great stuff. You never knew masking tape could be this good! For instance for the brake rotors, I'll first paint then gloss black, mask off the calipers, paint the hub X32, wait till it's good and dry and mask it off, and then paint the metalic grey on the actual rotors. Then apply a wash to pick out the drilled holes (which I'm drilling out by hand with a #80 drill bit, one by one by one....) Alot of effort yes, but they tend to look great when done. The brakes in particular demand this kind of effort, because they're so visible. Stuff I brushpaint would be like the black components on D17 and D20, after they're airbrushed the base color. Not hard, just time consuming. I'm sure you've noticed that the Enzo is certainly a kit to sink one's teeth into.

There's no hard and fast rule on the use of masking tape. Just wait till it's really dry. Another reason I like acrylics- very short drying times. I've learned to be particularly careful when masking on metalics, however (like those brakes!) :sly:

You wrote "Then apply a wash to pick out the drilled holes". What do you mean by that, what's a wash? :confused:

The parts D17 and D20, why even bother airbrushing that kind of small parts when you never see them again after you put on the body? Or can you take off the body once you have put it on?

What kind of airbrush do you use? single-double action, brand etc.?

( I waiting for my Tamiya compressor with airbrush that I ordered a week ago. It's a single action airbrush. I don't know if I can paint really small details with it. I'll just have to wait and see. )

Thanks!

I think that some of that detailing, including the master brake cylinder are visible from underneith when complete. I'm not sure if the bonnet is easily removable, or if it is best glued down (If it's removable, I'm adding brake lines and battery wiring!:rolleyes:)

A wash is thinned dark paint applied to parts, that's allowed to collect in low areas/engravings. The excess is then wiped away. It's a terrific way to emphasise detailing. Just be careful the thinner won't attack the base color.

I use a Badger 150 dual action airbrush- but it's not the type of airbrush that determines if you can paint details. Just patience and skill with masking! There isn't any part of this kit that you can't do with the basic Tamiya airbrush.