Brake detail help needed...

I searched and searched and couldnt find what im looking for...

how can i accurately drill holes on a plain disk brake like from the Revell ITR? is there a simpler method than measuring each and every rotor?

i just drilled mine at random... but with a pattern... lol

Dunno...
Try making patterns on a masking tape, tape it on the disc (better do this first then mark patterns) and then drill thru the pattern...

I made a template years ago...
Used a piece of scrap plastic, shaped like a piece of pie with a round cut out shaped like the hub. Drill holes in it where you want the holes in the brake disk, drill holes in the disk, turn the template, repeat...
I hope that made sense!
:p

do u have a picture?

You have a number of choices instead of drilling:

1. you can replace your strock ITR brakes with a number of aftermarket brakes, BREMBO, AP racing ,etc. you ge these off other models, for example, my GT-R Skyline R34 came with two sets of brembo cross drilled brakes. I also have a number of WRC kit parts, including great looking brakes. Check out my R34 thread for more detail on the brakes.
Here are some examples:
http://www.joeyandmona.com/albums/album13/MVC_354F.sized.jpg
these came from a stock NHRA kit:
http://www.joeyandmona.com/albums/album13/jagbrakes1.sized.jpg
these came from the Porsche GT3 kit:
http://www.joeyandmona.com/albums/albun02/a7.sized.jpg
http://www.joeyandmona.com/albums/albun02/wheels.sized.jpg

These were also WRC brakes:
http://www.joeyandmona.com/albums/albun11/6_G.sized.jpg



2. you can replace the stock kit brakes with after market photoetched units that are 100% more realistic and are easy to assemble. I had great luck with the SAS brake kit that comes with its own resin calipers!! for extra detail...

These are Scale auto brakes: without calipers:
http://www.joeyandmona.com/albums/album93/a4.sized.jpg
with calipers:
http://www.joeyandmona.com/albums/album93/2_G_003.sized.jpg
and finaly completed:
http://www.joeyandmona.com/albums/album93/8_G_002.sized.jpg
behind the wheel:
http://www.joeyandmona.com/albums/album93/6_G_003.sized.jpg

www.scaleautostyle.com

This is metal brakes on ITR from REvell:
http://www.joeyandmona.com/albums/album13/MVC_364F.sized.jpg

3. you can glue photoetch driller rotor face on tope of your plastic part to achieve a up-sized effect. you can find these in many WRC photoetch sets, etc. some people have some left overs.

Like so:
http://www.joeyandmona.com/albums/album13/350Zfinal_front.sized.jpg

Hope this helps.

And actually on real performance and racing cars they don't use the cross-drilled discs that much anymore, as grooved discs are better. The drilled real discs get cracks easier than grooved discs, so why not make grooved discs to model cars too... :)

the problem with aftermarket parts is taht im short on money. i wanna do this the cheapest way possible.

try to cut slots in the rotor, like ata said, they are raceworthy, and easier (then dimpled or cross-drilled) to custom fabricate in 1:24th. just make a template or something 1st. I think they look better too ;)

do u have an example?

I made slots by measuring and drilled holes on free hand using the tip of a modeling knife. Some pics:
http://plexxi.c-sam.nu/nsx/nsx.htm
(check under "brakes")
please note that the the brakes are not finished. Needs some sanding and paint...

Martin S - nice work on the brakes. Just wondering how you got such a clean cut circle.

I used one of these:
http://www.pennbutiken.com/page_assessories/cirkelmall.jpg

and scribed a circle on the plastic card and cut it out roughly with a knife and sanded it down to the scribed circle with a 400 grit paper