Electrical system problems??

When I place my electrical system under stress the motor kicks down to 500 rpm's, the retreaves back to 1130 rpm idle. Does this mean my altinator or something is about to go, or is this normal?? any replys to my question would be greatful..

is it your sound system that is putting too much stress on the alternator or something else? a capacitor would be good if you have a high wattage sound system. bumping at idle isn't very good for a stock alternator.

with a modern computor controlled engine there is a sencor which reads how much curent is being drawn and when there is a large amount of curent being drawn (like from a stereo) it will or should turn the idle up to compensate. from what you said it sounds as though when u stress your electrical it goes to 500 then pretty quickly goes back to 1130, if that is not corect please specify more clearly but if that is the case i wouldnt think you have a seroius problem. the only thing that i can think of mite be that you have a positive line from an amp or something that draws a lot of power which is conected directly to the battery and it takes the computor a while to realize that too much curent is being drawn. i am no expert so anyone feel free to tell me im full of shit

i OWN a charged monster capastitor... whats the deal??

do the rpms eventually even out and go back to normal? how many farad is your capacitor and how many watts is your amplifier running?

also how many amps does your amplifier draw? 60-amp amplifiers draw a lot of current.

1.0 fared, 300 RMS, 25-amp(but not sure on the amp question)

I agree with cvcc's explanation for the idle drop and then increase back to normal. When you turn on the stereo, it draws a lot of current, especially during sustained low frequency bass. Is the idle drop similar to when you turn on the A/C? If it is, then that's normal.

If you play pop or rap where the bass isn't sustained for long periods of time, then the capacitor should handle it, but if you're listening to something like Bass Mekanik( something that can easily pop your subs and drain current), then it might be time to upgrade to a larger alternator.

I build alternators, let me help you. The NipponDenso alternator on your car stops charging at 500 engine rpm's, thus taking the load off the engine, allowing it to return to idle, the regulator inside the alternator has a 'soft start' feature that slowly returns the load.
This and the factor that you left off how much stress exactly you put on the system is the most logical answer I can supply. Add the total fused load of amplifiers (2 amps with a pair of 30amp fuses each would be 120amps) and tell me this number, along with what year make and model of car and engine, I'll tell you what my suggestion will be to correct it.
The most common problem I see is underdrive pulley's running high-powered alternators, that's like swimming in lead shoes.

Think I need HO Alternator done for my 1997 toyota camry 2.5 4 cyl also. I had major light dimmage when I played 1400 watt rms system. I had stock alternator and some 760cca battery (will replace with yellow top 34d/78). Was told that ground wire guage is mor important than power wire guage. Don't know if that's true. I shoulda seen it coming, but my alternator went dead before I learned basic car audio electronics.

bhogeva, if you dont know the basics to car audio, i dont see how you built a 1400 watt RMS system, with out spended some serious...like in the several several thousand dollar range.

bhogeva, if you dont know the basics to car audio, i dont see how you built a 1400 watt RMS system, with out spended some serious...like in the several several thousand dollar range.

I don't have much experience compared to others on this forum. I've got a 1000.1 watt factory modified crossfire bmf amp (can run 10.5 - 17 volts). This amp powers a 12" 1000w rms IDMAX (Image Dynamics) sub with custom built 35hz tuned box. For my mids/trebble, I have a (crapy) hiphonics 400 watt rms amp giving 100w to each morel tweeter/midrange pair. As for electrical stuff under the hood, I need help with dimming lights. I"m gonna start by getting yellow top and a 2.5f capacitor and change ground wire. Don't know if this will work or need HO alternator. THanks

http://www.morelusa.com/prices/ren.html
http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/website/tech/data_sheet_idmaxd2.html