What to do now???

hi...
i was supposed to change my timing belt for my 95 eclipse gsx... so i ordered it online 2 weeks ago...and last week after i came back from my mechanic shop.. i parked my car it worked fine... then for the next 3 days i dint even drive my car.. on the 4 th day when i got my timing belt by mail.. i thought of going to the mechanic shop to change it... i went and started my car it wont start.. the battery had charge and there was also spark... so today i towed my car to my mechanic and asked him to check.. he just tried to start it and said that the timing belt broke... so now i wanted to know.. whether my valve or valve seals inside the engine is broke or cracked or not... is there any way to find it??? my mechanic is telling me that its better for me to buy a new engine.. is that true???

dunno if its ture or not
but if u getta new engine it'll give u a new start and ull have the old engine for parts

aint helpfull i know is jus my :2cents:

hmmm...
i thought of buying another used engine from ebay and then i can swap the parts... but first i want to know whether my valve seals are really cracked or broken???? how to find it out???

well since its at the mechanic
hmm why dont he check it

since it wasn't driving it shouldn't be much damage, (unless he was really driving it and just told you that)

and no you dont need a new engine, just some headwork and maybe a piston or two.

doesn't sound like this mechanic is capable is doin the job neither,
and technically he fucked up the head, not you

hey thanks for the info... and how much will it cost me for the headwork and pistons??? aproximately...

and can u also plz explain me a bit about headwork???
thanks

Ok, pull the cam cover and look for valve springs that are not returning the valve stem all the way up. Look for cam followers that are lose or setting down in the head depressions. This means bent valves.

I had a 16 valve high rev when the auto tranny paused for a second between gears. Belt broke. Bent valves and cracked valve stem guides. Pistons were fine. Machine shop work on head including new valves, about $450. Pull head first and find out what you are up against.

You don't for sure need "head work and pistons" it's just a common thing that breaks from the timing belt. Have the mechanic check it out! That's the only way you are going to find out what needs to be replaced.

Noone can guess at your cost because nobody here knows how many valves you bent or if anything else happened. Get it checked out.

dunno if its ture or not
but if u getta new engine it'll give u a new start and ull have the old engine for parts

aint helpfull i know is jus my :2cents:


Where is my "English Mothafucka, do you speak it!" picture when I need it.... :D


First of all, how does a timing belt break when a car is parked. :sly: I Call BS. You could always pull 3 10mm bolts on the upper tbelt cover and have a look see. If it did break valves are bent, its that simple. But they are a couple bucks each, just replace the bent ones and leave the good ones. Make sure this asclown does the tbelt job right. Not to make you worry, but he makes me nervous alrady. Combine that with the fact that "mechanics" and "shops" RARELY ever get a DSM tbelt job right. It is NOT like other cars, despite what they think. At least give him the vfaq for reference. Good luck.

Where is my "English Mothafucka, do you speak it!" picture when I need it.... :D


First of all, how does a timing belt break when a car is parked. :sly: I Call BS. You could always pull 3 10mm bolts on the upper tbelt cover and have a look see. If it did break valves are bent, its that simple. But they are a couple bucks each, just replace the bent ones and leave the good ones. Make sure this asclown does the tbelt job right. Not to make you worry, but he makes me nervous alrady. Combine that with the fact that "mechanics" and "shops" RARELY ever get a DSM tbelt job right. It is NOT like other cars, despite what they think. At least give him the vfaq for reference. Good luck.


sorry dude
i kant spell
and isa speaks da perrrfected anglisha :grinyes:
lol jk

so 95 gsx racer are u telling me that there is no way the timing belt can break while the car is not running... actually i will tell what happened again... i was drove back from my mechanic shop and parked the car at nite..and after 3 days i went and started my car...and it wont start.. me and my friends checked and there was bottery and when i towed the car to my mechanic shop he checked for spark and there was spark. so my mechanic went and started the car and there was this wheel rolling sound but it wont start.. so my mechanic said it will be your timing belt and 99% i would have damaged the valves... but when i opened the timing belt cover i can see the timing belt properly alinged with the tensioner... my guess was... if my timing belt was broken then it should be in 2 peices rite.. how come it is still in one single peice... or i also thought that i might not know the real meaning of broken timing belt... can u plz explain.. so for being a nerd.. but i seriously dunno :(

Here is another reason that mechanic is a fucktard. If the timing belt is broken there will be no spark. You need a cam angle position signal to generate spark advance, and that sensor is on the intake cam, which of course requires that the intake cam be turning with the crank, via the tbelt ;) There is a slight chance on a 95-96 car you may still get a spark trigger from the crank angle sensor alone (they are set up differently from the 90-94 and 97-99 cars) but I highly doubt it, and I dont even remember what year the car is we are talking about...

If thebelt is broken when you remove the upper cover there will be all kinds of slack in it. It will still be in "one" piece (not sure what you mean by two pieces), but it should be continuous, like the alternator belt,or any other belt you've ever seen.

my car is 1995 as my nick says lol... the timing belt in 2 peices means that if the belt is broken it should be in more than one peice rite that is what i meant...anyway i will go and check the car again for the signs which u guys said thanks...

A broken timing belt will not be in two pieces. I still cant figure out where you're coming up with that.. It will still be "one piece" but it wont be a continuous loop like it should be. Also keep in mind that the belt could be broken, but only between the cogs on the inside of the belt. So it has stretched essentially, but still looks fine from the outside of the belt, or the part you can see when its installed on the car.

Good luck...

lol... kevin i went checked my car again today and u know know wat my timing belt was still new.. so i asked the other mechanic in the same shop... actually that shop got 3 mechanics.. so i asked the other guy to come and have a look at the timing belt.. he checked and said ya the belt is still new :)... and he said that the vlave wont be having any damage.. on hearing that i started running butt naked all around the shop :o) ... now the thing is if it is not the timing belt then what is it??? i asked the same guy again and he said it might be ur CAM sensor... but immediately i remembered reading somewhere in this site that auto cars mostly wont get crank wall... so i told him that.. and disagreed with me... does anyone have any clue whats happening with my car ???? :o(

If the cam sensor (not affected by crankwalk, thats the crank angle sensor), or the crank sensor was bad, you wouldnt get spark. If the engine doesnt know where the motor is relative to top dead center it wont fire the injectors or plugs. If you are getting spark its time to look elsewhere. Start with the fuel pump. Have your mechanic (not that first guy ;) ) check to be sure its working by whatever means necessary. using the scan tool to force it on while the key is in the on position but the car is not cranking is the best way. Anther simple test is a compression test. If the motor doesnt have compression for whatever reason it wont start. But again, since it ran when you shut it off this is very unlikely. Just by the fact that yo have spark I can rule out several other possibilities, so be sure that you are getting it. If yuo arent getting it you need to look into the ECU, the ECU fuse, coil packs, ignitor, etc. Make sure you post when you find out what it is ;)

ok here is the result after checking my car.... the cranck angle sensor was loose... so my mechanic tightened it up... then he also said the timing belt tensioner was a bit loose to... so he then tightened the timing belt also.. then i asked him to check for sparks he did it and there were sparks still... so he went and did the compression check and the readings were all zero :(.... now what does this mean and what do i need to do to repair it... he still insist me on getting a new engine but i got no money for it... another thing which i want to remind u guys abt my car is that..my head gasket was leaking and there was white smoke from the exhaust which i dint repair... i wanted to repair it at the end of this month... but my guess is that it has nothing to do with the compression i think ....but anyway somebody help me :(

See message from hodunwun above. I have done engine work on an 16 valve that had an unbroken belt but nearly all the valves were bent. Over reving, lost teeth on belt, jump time - what ever - the valves were bent. The belt will still run the cams but the valves will not be closing = zero compression. See message obove.
doug

yea he is right, it could be the valves, to check it, take the spark plugs out, put a big ass breaker bar on the crank bolt that holds the pully on, if it turns all the way throught you shouldnt have a problem with bent valves, although i could be your valve seats, if it is not that it most likly is your piston rings causing blow by, good luck and i hope that helps...

Jake

EclipseRSt, He just had the engine turning over with the starter to do he compression check, so turning the crank over to check for valve/piston interferrence will show no interference. The valves will already be bent out of the way or far enough up but not closed so the pistons can travel up and down ok. But the valves are still not closed thus the zero compression. I am not sure of the engine he has in a 95 was it? But the 1g 16 valve crate engine with 40 thou runs about $750, the turbo crate is 1500 smackaroos in Portland. On the bench the head work with new valves and valve guides if needed is about $450. A bench pressure test for a cracked head my also be called for. Gaskets about $100 and a new belts if necesary about $30 plus minus. That's the cam timing belt and the balance shaft belt behind it.

Sounds like the belt may have been loose enough and skipped teeth. Usually the only way to have ZERO compression is bent valves. Bad HG, pistn ring, etc will usually be somewhere between 50 and 130. The good news is you can get a head rebuilt for ~200 bucks, and new valves are about 200 for SS, so stock should be around 100--150 I'd guess. And while the head is off, you can do the HG fix, and if it needed timing belt parts replaced or will soon now is the time. Also be SURE this asshat does the tbelt tension right. One does not just go in and "tighten" the tbelt on a DSM. MAybe on every OTHER import out there... But not a turbo DSM. The tension has to be set such that the gap bewtween the tenioner arm and tensioner body is between .15 and .18 inches after it sets for about 15 minutes to expand fully. Read the vfaq, and make that toolbag read it twice, as I suggested earlier. Its no wonder people think that DSMs are unreliable when I consider the douchenozzles that are working on them... Its not really thier fualt either, they just dont realize thats its a very different system than all other cars out there. :) At least give him the info I gave above about having that gap right. I've done this too many times, and it still takes me half a dozen tries to get the gap in between .15 and .18. He should know how to change it (tighten the tension to get the gap smaller, and vice vera if its too small) Good luck.