Best turbo for b16 civic

Whats the Fastest spooling turbo avaliable for a b16? whats the best turbo for highest hp output for a b16?

Are you looking for a kit or are you going to piece it together? How much hp are you looking for? There is no single definitive answer for these types of questions. How muuch are you looking to spend. A small tdo4 or tdo5 will get you quick spool but will top out quickly limiting the amount of hp, where as a t3 or a t3/t4 won't spool until 3k rpms but will continue to boost you till redline. Is the block going to be built is also another question you need to answer.

well, i most likely won't build the block but i may. I'm looking for about 250whp nothing to fast. I want boost at a reasonable rpm range... so basically i want full boost before 4500rpms++

well, i most likely won't build the block but i may. I'm looking for about 250whp nothing to fast. I want boost at a reasonable rpm range... so basically i want full boost before 4500rpms++

If it was up to me(which of course it isn't because this is your decision) I would go with a custom kit. Buy a t3/t4 turbo from Turbonetics(or whoever), either get someone to make a header for you(or order one off the net to fit your turbo flange) then get someone to make you a downpipe(or again buy one off the net, 2.5" should be fine.) Get some piping(you can either go the really cheap route-buy some pipes from Home Depot- or you can get someone to make some/buy some off the net) Order a wastegate off somewhere like ebay bc there is no reason in buying a brand new one(Just make sure it will fit the turbo) Get and external wastegate off ebay too if possible. Ect. Ect. Ect. on the other stuff just ask someone that knows little more about turbos than I do :banghead: Then get you a turbo timer and boost controller(I'd go electronic but you can go manual) blah blah blah after install I'd say it'd all cost you around say 2500 bucks if you look in the right places and you'd have a very powerful and lost lasting kit.

well, i most likely won't build the block but i may. I'm looking for about 250whp nothing to fast. I want boost at a reasonable rpm range... so basically i want full boost before 4500rpms++


Well, you aren't likely to get 250whp from the block unless you do some head work at the minimum. Going with a t3/t4 you would most likely be able to get full boost by 4500 rpms, they don't start spooling up til about 3k rpms, but it is a bit overkill for how much hp you want. They can support up to 500-600 hp depending on your wheel sizes. That and it will cost you more. If you want quick spooling and full boost by 4.5k rpms, go with a tdo5 18g. They are fairly inexspensive and will support the hp you are looking for. Like the other guy said, it's usually cheaper to piece the stuff together. Find a local shop that can do your piping for you. You should get an intercooler also which can be spendy if you don't look around. The tdo5 comes with an internal wastegate actuator so you just need to find the right manifold. I don't know what year of civic you got, but with 250hp you are gonna be hard to touch. Just make sure you get some good fuel management and bigger injectors also. There is always a lot more to turbocharging than just slapping on the turbo.

[QUOTE=93hybridaccord]Well, you aren't likely to get 250whp from the block unless you do some head work at the minimum. QUOTE]

Dude, look around. There are many people getting over 300whp on the stock block. TUNING!

[QUOTE=93hybridaccord]Well, you aren't likely to get 250whp from the block unless you do some head work at the minimum. QUOTE]

Dude, look around. There are many people getting over 300whp on the stock block. TUNING!

You obviously aren't one of them. How much boost and what kind of turbo? This guy wants 250whp yet full boost by 4500 rpms. He's gonna have to go with a smaller turbo to get the quick boost and that means that in order to do that, he's gonna have to beef up his head and drop his compression cause he's gonna have to push more psi. You are running 9psi according to your sig and only have 240 at the wheels. Depending on his block which he hasn't said which one it is, he may or may not be able to get to 250 without at least some porting. You want quick boost but modest hp, your best bet would be a tdo5 18g. I'm not arguing with you maxspeed, tuning goes along way and that's why I said go with a good engine management system and you must get bigger injectors.

You obviously aren't one of them. How much boost and what kind of turbo? This guy wants 250whp yet full boost by 4500 rpms. He's gonna have to go with a smaller turbo to get the quick boost and that means that in order to do that, he's gonna have to beef up his head and drop his compression cause he's gonna have to push more psi. You are running 9psi according to your sig and only have 240 at the wheels. Depending on his block which he hasn't said which one it is, he may or may not be able to get to 250 without at least some porting. You want quick boost but modest hp, your best bet would be a tdo5 18g. I'm not arguing with you maxspeed, tuning goes along way and that's why I said go with a good engine management system and you must get bigger injectors.

I am not one of them, but very easily could. First off, I have the same size turbo as you are suggesting to him. I get full boost before 4500. 9 psi is nothing, and 240whp is not bad at all for 9 psi. You are steering people on the "you have to lower compression to run high boost" bandwagon. If he runs 10psi on stock compression will will make more power than running say 14-15psi on 9:1 compression. Also once he drops the compression, it is going to take even longer to spool, especially an 18g. I am not trying to argue, but you ight be making harder than it is. 250whp is a very modest goal, it can be easily achieved on the stock motor with a decent ems.

I am not one of them, but very easily could. First off, I have the same size turbo as you are suggesting to him. I get full boost before 4500. 9 psi is nothing, and 240whp is not bad at all for 9 psi. You are steering people on the "you have to lower compression to run high boost" bandwagon. If he runs 10psi on stock compression will will make more power than running say 14-15psi on 9:1 compression. Also once he drops the compression, it is going to take even longer to spool, especially an 18g. I am not trying to argue, but you ight be making harder than it is. 250whp is a very modest goal, it can be easily achieved on the stock motor with a decent ems.

That's why I suggested that turbo cause it will have full boost by more like 3k-3.5k rpms. Also, like I said, he needs to get a good ems. With that turbo and maybe e-manage or hondata, he can achieve 250whp, but with pushing 10-12 psi on a stock motor, something will fail. You can't expect a motor that wasn't meant to be boosted running 10+:1 compression to be able to hold up to that much boost and not fail. Do some head work and he can get that much hp on lower boost, that's all I'm saying.

That's why I suggested that turbo cause it will have full boost by more like 3k-3.5k rpms. Also, like I said, he needs to get a good ems. With that turbo and maybe e-manage or hondata, he can achieve 250whp, but with pushing 10-12 psi on a stock motor, something will fail. You can't expect a motor that wasn't meant to be boosted running 10+:1 compression to be able to hold up to that much boost and not fail. Do some head work and he can get that much hp on lower boost, that's all I'm saying.

I agree with you fully, except for the 250 whp. I know for a fact that he could exceed that with a good ems such as hondata, aem, e0manage, etc. Use use the shitty afc hack, with -40 across the board to idle the 450cc. I have done dyno runs once and didn't fine tune the fuel at all, and I still run rich. Leaned out correctly across the rpm band and 250 can be broken. You are totally right saying to do headwork. ALOT of horsepower can be unlocked doing various things to the head. As for the reliablity, comon its a honda, those b motors are tougher than you think. I have been running 9-10psi daily driven 40 city miles a day every day for over 2 years now.(stock internals and head) Besides normal wear and tear (clutch, axles, etc) I have never once had a problem. Plus the motor is 10+ years old. But I know for a fact through PM that he wants to go the safer route, so better to run lower boost. (I don't give a shit, I have another one in the works)

Thats all I have to say, I am going on vacation, be back in a week and a half.

u should check out the complete drag turbo kit for ur car. it is nicely set up and is made customized for ur ideal car. i am a dealer of the kit so i can hook u up pretty nicely on a kit hit me up if u are interested

T3 .60/.63.....perfect turbo for what you are looking for. dont buy a turbo made for 400+whp if you only need one for 250whp

not to mention .60/.63's are cheaper...

250hp atw can deffinatley be broken, 300hp atw is easy with just a set of pistons and nothing else, you can even do that with all stock internals. my only point is WHY? it is alot cheaper to go ahead and spend $1500 installed for pistons, and rods, so you know it is safe. VS. doing it w/o and taking the chance of blowing a rod through the block or braking the ringlandings off the pistons and sucking metal though the entire engine resulting in a full teardown either way. sometimes it is cheaper to spend the $$$ up front rather on the tail end. hindsight is always 20/20. maxspeed is correct tuning is everything but it never hurts to be safe.

what's the difference between a regular turbo and a ball bearing?

what's the difference between a regular turbo and a ball bearing? I also want a turbo that will effectively hold the amount of boost near redline

250hp atw can deffinatley be broken, 300hp atw is easy with just a set of pistons and nothing else, you can even do that with all stock internals. my only point is WHY? it is alot cheaper to go ahead and spend $1500 installed for pistons, and rods, so you know it is safe. VS. doing it w/o and taking the chance of blowing a rod through the block or braking the ringlandings off the pistons and sucking metal though the entire engine resulting in a full teardown either way. sometimes it is cheaper to spend the $$$ up front rather on the tail end. hindsight is always 20/20. maxspeed is correct tuning is everything but it never hurts to be safe.

Um, why spend $1500? I'm turboing my integra LS for around a grand. Why the fuck should i do internals? It just gives me an excuse to turn up the boost and then i can blow my engine still. Regardless if you want 250whp stick w/ stock internals. get a nice T3, AFC/ECU hack, a fuel pump, some 450cc Injectors and you will be fine...dont buy into the bullshit you need to buy expensive shit to get the numbers you want. B series are very capable of 250ish whp so why do internals on em? Just dont fuck up on the tuning and you will be fine.

the only diffrence between a regular turbo and a ball bearing, is that ball bearing turbos have less friction. THus allowing quicker spool time.
And about your turbo delema, what billab2ong said is VERY VERY VERY ACURATE. why have a turbo that puts out 600 whp, when you are not even gonna get close to that?
pick a smaller turbo, that can put out less power, but has a quicker spool time. Honestly..... because the turbo CAN put out alot of power, dosent mean that your engine is gonna take it. My suggestion is putting a T3, and a nice set of low compression pistons to start. ^^