Building the Tamiya Ferrari 360 Spider!!!

hi. Ive got a F50 and a 360 spider kit for a long time now and I think I'm gonna start on the 360 spider.. the reason I'm gonna do the spider is that I saw a real 360 spider just this past summer parked on the street. it was absolutely amazing looking.. with that engine showing through from under the rear hatch.

I wanna do a good job so I'll need you all to help me along..

first off.. where can I get a good image hosting service??? my isp only provide 10meg of space and I'll be posting lots of pictures... :)

phil
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437cover.jpg

You can use: AF Picture Server (http://files.automotiveforums.com) for free with your account.

So what color is this going to be?

sounds cool :naughty: , what rims you are going to put?

You can use: AF Picture Server (http://files.automotiveforums.com) for free with your account.

So what color is this going to be?

exactly what I was thinking. I was thinking silver, but Im not sure which silver. I need a silver matallic color with a blue undertone, so Im thinking of using testors' silver blue metallic. but if I do that I'll probably need a primer coat+base silver coat(needed because silver blue metallic is tranlucent)+color coat+tamiya clear lacquer coat and this is gonna be REAL MESSY!!!!!!!!!

sounds cool :naughty: , what rims you are going to put?

think Im gonna go all stock. I dont wanna take too long with this thing.. :grinno:

just wanna let you people know I will be building the 360 spider over the thanksgiving holiday so stay tuned.. I'll be doing the exterior silver blue metallic and interior black.. all stock. I will be posting the blow-by-blow.. so stay tuned!!!! :smile:

ok, people, seems that this is not gonna be a one weekend job. but let me get started. what should I post??? I think instead of posting a lot of pics bits and pieces I would rather post stuff in the spirit of technique sharing. so here goes:

here are some of my tools:

I spray everything when I can so I got myself a very cheap compressor. its a Silentaire Scorpion MB 1000. this is a weak compressor and I need to water down my paint quite a bit to get best result. the upside is that because the spray is weak.. there is little over spray.

the airbrush is a Iwata HP-B.. yeah I spent a pretty penny on that airbrush.

my favorite lacquer clean is E-Z lacquer thinner.. this thing smells the least offensive. great for cleaning everything. the scrap piece of door has the color modal master silver blue metallic.. which would be the color of the car.

for glues I use the testors glue pen. no tube glue no way!!! and for something quicker I use tenax plastic welder.. this one of those very quick set glues that can bond ABS plastic in 10sec. but there are many other brands that do the same.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic2.jpg

ok.. lets get started.. like I said I mask and spray whenever I can.. so let me offer a couple examples:

this is the engine when that top cylinder on black. I hand painted the cylinder and the paint got onto the body a little bit, so I mask the cylinder and touched up the engine block.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic6.jpg

and this is how it turned out:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic7.jpg

now this is a little messy.. I painted the chassis semi-gloss black (model master black+flat black) and masked around the A-arm before I spray it with aluminum model master metalizer.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic9.jpg

here is the "after" pic, nice and clean huh???

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic5.jpg

here's the same idea, I painted the side panels flat back and masked them out and painted the frame silver.. which part I decide to paint and mask first depends on which parts are easier to mask out.

btw, NEVER mask over model master metalizer cus while they look beautiful.. they dont stick too well.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic4.jpg

now, on to the body!!! the body will be painted silver blue metallic. it takes four paint layers. the bottom layer is tamiya white primer. the second layer is model master silver sprayed with an airbrush. this is needed because the silver blue metallic is semi-translucent. the third layer will be the color, and the final layer will be tamiya clear lacquer.

as usual I got rid of the mold lines before any painting began. this is after the silver undercoat:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic8-med.jpg

stay tuned!!! :)

great job... good job masking....seems very helpful

the third layer will be the color, and the final layer will be tamiya clear lacquer.

Are you planning to spray Tamiya TS clear lacquer from the can, or Tamiya X-13 acrylic from the bottle? If you spray lacquer over Model Master enamels you probably have a problem.

Great progress.Can't wait to see more.:bigthumb:

Are you planning to spray Tamiya TS clear lacquer from the can, or Tamiya X-13 acrylic from the bottle? If you spray lacquer over Model Master enamels you probably have a problem.

probably from the can. it would take too long using the airbrush and the longer you spray, the more likely dusts and dirts would get sprayed onto the surface.

also, I tested praying ts-13 on other model master enamel and I had no problem. of course I will test it again on the color I will us.

this looks good already. and you've just started!

Looks real good, perfect ferrari color, keep up the good work.

nice color, and good job.

ok, people, next steps, the brakes!!!!

the brake parts are very very nice - not only do they have the drill holes, but they have the spiraling ventilation grooves as well - though you can hardly see it.

so how to do justice to these brakes??? here's what I do:

first, give it a coat of silver enamel, after that brush on a coat of tamiya flat black:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic11.jpg

after the flat back "kinda" dries, which takes about a couple minutes, I wipe the color of with a paper towel dampened with with 91% isopropyl alcohol, take would remove the black on the surface of the disc but leave the color in the holes.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic12.jpg

finally I just hand paint the hub and the caliper... and its BEAUTIFUL!!!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic13.jpg

nice how to, you should put that in the Tutorial section.

nice how to, you should put that in the Tutorial section.

but its gonna be like this the entire thread!!! I think the whole idea of posting an in-progress project is so that you can share your building experience, instead of just putting up a bunch of snapshots for other people to "admire". I see a lot of other wonderfully beautiful projects in this forum and I think by setting some sort of example other people might do the same and show how they got their beautiful results.

It was just a suggestion, anyway, I'm using this method with thinned flat black to see if it works as good as regular flat, unthinned.

It was just a suggestion, anyway, I'm using this method with thinned flat black to see if it works as good as regular flat, unthinned.

it just might work better cus you would be able to get as much paint in the holes with less paint on the surface to remove..

just remember not to use too much alcohol on the towel or you would desolve the soak up all the paint from the holes.

also, do you notice that it only works if the color coat is enamel or lacquer, right??? (or the alcohol would desolve the color coat)

ok, people, I MESSED UP!!!

I sprayed a wheel well with water droplets still on it (after I washed the parts but before they dried thoroughly), I ended up with bubble beneath the paint. so I needed to remove the paint. and what do I use??? something Ive used for years -

Polly-S EASY LIFT-OFF

it removes DRIED TESTORS/MODEL MASTER ENAMELS. and it is safe on plastic. just dont use it too many times on the same piece or plastic or else the plastic would get brittle and break easily.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic14.jpg

That color on that Ferrari looks fantastic! Great progress thread also.

AARRGGHHH!!!!!!

that's NOT the final color.. its the color of the BASE COAT.. which will be covered with SILVER BLUE METALLIC!!! I will spray that next weekend cus I need to do it outdoor during the day and I do have to work mon-fri.

AARRGGHHH!!!!!!

that's NOT the final color.. its the color of the BASE COAT.. which will be covered with SILVER BLUE METALLIC!!! I will spray that next weekend cus I need to do it outdoor during the day and I do have to work mon-fri.
Calm down! I'm aware of what the final color will be. I still think the basecoat looks fantastic.

good work so far pflau! the break idea is good, what i thought you did from looking at the pics was paint it silver that put flat black over, then paint the steel or silver color you chose again over the top carefully so as not to let it drip in the wholes, similarly to what i do for my springs on cars! Good work!:iceslolan

It seems like a very nice project. I'm planning on building that kit too one of these days, and this "how-to" is going to come very, very handy..For that, I thank you in advance :D
(and keep up with the great job..)

DARN.. SETBACK!!!!!!

washed a part down the sink accidentally.. always make sure the stopper is down while working above the sink!!!

does anybody have a spare B4 part (the shock absorber/spring)?????????????

guess I'll need to call tamiya tomorrow!!!

I'll show you people how to do this tomorrow.. :tongue:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic15.jpg

OK, just called tamiya and got the part ordered.. $4.50 for the B tree and about $4 for shipping.. not too bad now I got some spare parts to play with.

talk to you people tonite!!!

Where are those pics you promised ? :D

Where are those pics you promised ? :D

Yeah ?? :naughty:

OK... sorry for the delay.. I had to work late last night..

anyway.. here's how I do it.. but I'll probably strip them and do them over as I noticed that some of the silver was coming off because of too much handling.. I think I'm gonna coat the silver with metalizer sealer.

the whole idea is that the under coat is enamel.. something that is not affected by alcohol. I paint on the tamiya X-18 semi-gloss black, and than "strip" the black from between the springs. here are the tools:

a superfine microbrush applicator that I cut off most of the brush head to get a very small point
a very fine brush - a 20/0 with a flat head

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic16-med.jpg

after I paint the spring, I dip the microbrush in 91% isopropyl alcohol ($1.00 from your local drug store) and wet the paint between the spring.. I would wet it and let the paint melt and soak it up until almost all of the paint is gone.. now this takes patience.. and you cant get the brush too wet because it would melt the paint on the spring - not what you want. so you wet the brush, soak up the paint, and rinse the brush in alcohol (dont dip the brush in the bottle of alcohol, put the alcohol in a small bottle cap and use it from there) and repeat.. make sure you apply pressure between the spring and not against the spring.. you try not to take the paint off the spring.

when you can see the color of the shock absorber you can switch to the 20/0 brush. do the same thing with the brush but again make sure not to get it too wet.. after you rinse the brush drag the brush on a piece of paper to soak up the excess alcohol, and "map up" the traces of paint from the space between the spring. the reason you didnt use the brush from the get go is because you need pressure to remove the paint.. which you cannot do with the brush because the 20/0 brush is not stiff like the microbrush.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic17.jpg

now this is the result.. the reason this is half black is because half of the absorber IS black per painting instruction.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic18.jpg

yes the result is not perfect.. but YOU CANNOT SEE it from normal distnace and hey there are always dirts between the spring and the shock absorber right???

I prefer this method over the painting over the spring method because this emphasize the spring and really give it a beefy appearance. :iceslolan

phil

I prefer this method over the painting over the spring method because this emphasize the spring and really give it a beefy appearance. :iceslolan

phil

I use another method (not mine but learnt here from another member of this forum !) :
- cut a strip of tamyia masking tape (on a cutting pad) : the width must be the distance between two "spring revolutions" (excuse me for bad english)
- paint the silver
- apply the masking tape between the spring (it's very easy to do)
- then paint the black
- when half-dry : remove the masking tape

I like this technique because it gives very good results and is very easy and fast to do.

oh, yeah I read about that method!!! in fact I cut the masking tape and when I was about to put it on.. I decided not to use it because of couple things.

1. the end of the string toward either side would need to be touch up anyway because the masking tape doesn't come to a point.

2. there is a chunk sticking out from the middle of the spring and the masking tape would go right over that and leave a gap between the tape and the shock absorber and paint would seep in so that area would need touching up.

3. the silver paint I use (testors) doesn't stick too well.. in fact if anybody know a silver paint that sticks well please let me know.. so if I really press the tape hard so there is no paint seeping underneath.. the tape would lift the paint right off. if I dont there would be paint seeping underneath so I would need to touch up again..

so after thinking about all the touching up I would have to do anyway I just did it with a brush from the get go..

Have you ever tried Alcad 2? Those really are the best metallic paints I've used. They're maskable within 10 minutes of spraying.

Cheers

Farrokh

Yes I have heard of alcad2 and I have seen it in my local hobby shop. the problem is that it nees a black undercoat.. and I decided that anything that builds up the coating thickness is unacceptable for me.

I just got some geninue tamiya masking tape and gave that tape around the spring thing a try.. and it seemed to have work.. except I took off the tape too early and removed too much paint from the side of the spring. I'll give it another try and I'll post what I find..

this is gonna be great, i cant wait to see the finished product

ok.. NO MORE TESTORS SPRAYS!!!! they are such HITS AND MISSES!!!

I got the silver blue metallic in a spray can.. thinking that I just might want to use a spray can instead of using an airbrush.. I tried it on the piece of scrap I have and look at what happened:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic19.jpg

look at the pits and the hazy finish!!! and dont tell me maybe its the coat of paint underneath being incompitable cus the paint underneath is model master silver blue metallic thinned with model master airbrush thinner sprayed with an airbrush.

Ive had bad experiences with testors spray before maybe this can is old cus I got it from a shop that didnt seem to sell too many of these but is there is no expiration date and some of my other really old testors sprays are still good so testors quality control really sux.

seems I'll chuck this can and just have to airbrush the color coat.

ok, I gave that tape around the spring method another try. I got the tamiya masking tape and of course needed to cut the tape.. this is how I did it:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic24.jpg

I cut the tape on a mirror using an x-acto knife. the knife of course cannot scratch the mirror... PERFECT!

now for the shock absorber.. this time I sprayed the whole thing silver, then overcoat with model master metalizer sealer, and wraped the tamiya around it

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic23.jpg

I painted tamiya x-18 over it, waited for it to dry, and removed the tape.. I had to do a little touching up.. and this is the result.. NOT BAD!!!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic22.jpg

ok, people, I NEED YOUR HELP!!!

Im doing the doors. I painted the whole thing semi-gloss black which is one part testors gloss + one part testors flat. I then masked out the silver panel and painted that tamiya x-32 titanium silver per instruction. now that freaking tamiya paint is VERY lumpy.. I dont know why.. maybe it's sat on the shelf for too long at the dealers. I had to redo it couple time until I learn to skim the top when I get the paint into the airbrush. that is, when I stired the paint I did not stir anything up from the bottom of the jar so the lumps stayed stuck at the bottom.. and when I sprayed it I used a very light spray and just built and built.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic20.jpg

after I removed the tape I sprayed model master metalizer sealer over it.. now the thing about model master metalizer is that YOU CAN CONTROL THE GLOSS.. if you want a glossier finish, you spray a little heavier, if you want a matt finish, spray drier. anyway. it turned out pretty good. the reason I use a sealer over the tamiya acrylic is that when I paint and speaker grill and screw up.. I can just wash the paint off with fantastic cleaner (a household cleaner for you not in the US) and not take the titanium silver off.

this picture has two doors.. the right one is the one for the 360 modena.. it comes with the kit but is NOT used for the spider. the left one is for the spider. you see how the speaker grill on the right is perfectly painted and the one on the left is not painted??? well I tried several times and had to wash the paint off everytime.. WHY??? because the freaking grill on the left door is NOT RECESSED!!!! so I cannot use one of my favorite painting technique which is to really water the paint down and POOL the paint into a recessed area.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic25-med.jpg


so my question is.. HOW AM I GONNA PAINT THAT DARN SPEAKER GRILL???? if its a squre or a rectangle I wouldve said screw it and cut a piece of black decal. but here my painting skill aint so good that I can paint a perfect circle..

Any Suggestion Welcome!!! Thank You!

p.s. excuse the quality of the pictures.. Ive decided to use more compression for "demo" pix to save space and improve page load time.. cus Im posting so many pictures.

I'd say just use enamel paint, perhaps thin it just a bit (or just dab the brush in thinner and wipe some of it off before immersing the brush into paint) and brushpaint that speaker grille.

you can either scribe the circle to make it recessed, or cut masking tape with something circular of the same size (well, pen cap, button on your shirt, anything circular of that size)

The best way one can do it is to do with a PE template with patterns
that way you can either scribe with the template or cut masking tape with the template, take my word that this template will not only help with just this model build-up, but also more models in the future.

you can either scribe the circle to make it recessed, or cut masking tape with something circular of the same size (well, pen cap, button on your shirt, anything circular of that size)

The best way one can do it is to do with a PE template with patterns
that way you can either scribe with the template or cut masking tape with the template, take my word that this template will not only help with just this model build-up, but also more models in the future.

but on the right door the WHOLE AREA is recessed, not just the perimeter of the circle.

by pe template do you mean the type of plastic template that drafting people use?? I used to have one of those.. got like 20 circles on the template.. but I lost the template.. I was actually thinking using such a template to cut a circle from a decal sheet and call it a day.

Plastic is doable, but since drafting people use the template to draw stuff, while we use it to cut stuff, the plastic might not be too durable, mine is photoetched, so basicially it is safe from knife.

as I said, you can either use the template to cut some masking tape, use the cut masking to help you paint the area, or use the template and a scriber (a needle will do too) to scribe the circle

just my 2 cents, I wouldnt use the template to cut the decal paper to get a job like this done.


Thanks for the tip, I will watch out for that when I move on to my 360 spyder.

just a quick tip.. a great way to hold small part for painting is to use scotch heavy duty outdoor mounting tape on a chinese/japanese takeout chopstick.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic26.jpg

quick update.. got myself a plastic drafting template.. used that to cut a hole from a masking tape and used the masking tape to mask around the speaker grill..

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic27.jpg

sprayed on some tamiya XF-1 and here's the result... BEAUTIFUL!!! OUCH!!!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic28.jpg

that's so hot... more updates plz!@!!

Awesome progress! I especially like the tips! :D

Awesome progress! I especially like the tips! :D
The fact that your providing us all with these wonderful tips is great, the speakers look very nicely done.

wow, those door panels look great, i love the clean lines and color combo!

How did I miss this thread for so long? :rolleyes:
Excellent work so far pflau, a great 360 is on the way.

:iagree: Very Good!!!

thank you thank you I really appreciate all the appreciations.. Im progressing slowly but surely because I wanna make sure to do everything right. but the holidays are coming up so I'll have lots of time set aside for this project. rest assured that I wont show you anything good... unless I also show to how to do it!!!!! :iceslolan

Fuckin a! Your technique make me envious! :eek:

Your diligence and innovation are exactly what I love to see in this forum!! :sunglasse:

ok, Im making slow but steady progress.. kinda have to work this weekend but I'll be on vacation starting next week so I'll be able to spend more time on this project..

for now I was just experimenting with my new polishing technique on a piece of scrap.. just to give you a sneak preview of what's to come :iceslolan

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/3536/111437pic29.jpg

WOW!!! This kit looks so awesome so far. Great work on the interior door panels, and the shocks. Keep us posted. I can't wait to see it done.

shiney!

yes its very very shiny.. and the DEPTH of the shine is amazing. by "new polishing technique" I meant new polishing material. Im experimenting using material used by guitar luthiers for polishing nitrocellulose lacquer. I'll give more details..