Brake bues

My brake pedal does not like to be hard enough when i press it. it is soft like sh*t. i tried belleding them, it stayed up for 3 days and then back to "normal" (low and soft). even when it was like it should be the braking wasn't so efficient as before. what in hell shall i do ? Changed the front pads (worn like hell), bleeded them, tried to adjust the rear shoes, and i can't find the damn screw. I looked at the shoes and compared them to new ones, they are almost unworn. Please help, this is driving me insane :bloated: :bloated: :bloated: :bloated: :bloated: :bloated: :bloated: :bloated: :bloated: :bloated: :bloated: :bloated: :bloated:

first off do you have abs?
if ya do did it start diong this right after you replace the front pads? did you do a normal bleed? did you do an abs gravity bleed? cause abs systems don't work like striaght hydrolic systems
if ya have abs and didn't do a gravity bleed the do this:
top off the master then get all 4 wheels off the ground, start from the furthest point from the master cylinder and open the bleeder valve with no foot pressure the valve will let the air out shut the valve when you run all fliud with no air or milk, then work your way over to the drivers rear and do that caliper,next to the pass front and then if ya haven't run out of fluid do the drivers front. just remember to check the master each time don't pump the pedal and take your time let me know what happens and good luck
andimout:evillaugh

no abs on my car.

there is two things can cause that.
one; you brake lines became weak and they're bulging out. have some body to press brake while you inspect brake lines for abnornality.
new OEM brake line will run for about $20-$30 each.
if decide to replace brake lines you may consider stainless steel braided brake lines. cost $120-$200 for set of four.

second; seals in master cylinder are worn. there is no test that you can do to check master cylinder.
new OEM master cylinder will run for $75.
if decide to replace master cylinder, buy OEM one. aftermarket ones just piece of crap, trust me on that i had bad experience with them.

Thank you for the post.
I have a similar (but mild) case with my non-ABS rear disks on 2001 Accord LX l4. I would also like to find out how to adjust the rear drum brakes because I think the braking will benefit.
I had a similar problem on a 1993 Geo Prizm years back, and adjusting the rear drums did help a great deal.

Len

Ooops,
I ment rear drums all the time, of course.

Originally posted by Deercat
Thank you for the post.
I have a similar (but mild) case with my non-ABS rear disks on 2001 Accord LX l4. I would also like to find out how to adjust the rear drum brakes because I think the braking will benefit.
I had a similar problem on a 1993 Geo Prizm years back, and adjusting the rear drums did help a great deal.

Len

If you having problem with brakes, just take your car to dealer and tell him to fix it, your car still under warranty.

BTW, just FYI rear brakes do only 20% of work when you try to stop the car. That is main reason they last that long, I have seen cars with 100,000ml on them and they still have OEM brake pads, shoes in your case.
have any body try to pull e-bake handle while you're doing 60mph? i did, it slowed down car to 55mph, so if you even adjust rear brakes (btw, they're self-adjusting) that is not going to help to improve brake performance.

If brake paddle feels soft, there few things can be wrong.
Air in system, solution is to bleed system
Brake lines are expanding/bulging, solution is to replace defected brake line.
Master cylinder seals worn and cannot properly pressurize system, solution is to replace master cylinder.