95 Park Ave. - power window problem

Never got an answer on the power window problem. Driver's side front door window - When you push the DOWN button the window goes down about half way and then it sounds like nylon gears ratcheting against each other. If you push on the window it goes down the rest of the way and then starts ratcheting again. Same thing when you want to raise the window, but you have to pull up on the window at the halfway point or it just sits there and buzzes. Got any idea how hard a fix this is? I don't want to tear into the door not knowing what a mess I might be getting myself into.

Thanks,

Tom D. Jones

I unfortunately had to tear into my 92 Park Avenue's right front door today to replace the door lock actuator. The window motor looked like it would be fairly easy to replace. The actuator was a different story. I love to meet the rocket scientist that came up with that design.

Sounds like a bad window regulator. Or if your lucky your regulator has a toothed strap that might be bad and can be replaced.

The clasic problem with GM power wndows seems to be the failuer of a 1/2 inch square semi conducting wafer mounted in series with the motor. If the motor is continuously energized, this component increases in resistance rapidly thus limiting motor current and torque. It is either a motor protector or a safety device. At any rate they fail and make the window stop after only one second of operation until it has a chance to cool and then the window will operate very briefly again. I have solved the problem for myself by shorting out this device, but I would not do it on someone else's car since I am uncertain about the safety aspect.

The clasic problem with GM power wndows seems to be the failuer of a 1/2 inch square semi conducting wafer mounted in series with the motor. If the motor is continuously energized, this component increases in resistance rapidly thus limiting motor current and torque. It is either a motor protector or a safety device. At any rate they fail and make the window stop after only one second of operation until it has a chance to cool and then the window will operate very briefly again. I have solved the problem for myself by shorting out this device, but I would not do it on someone else's car since I am uncertain about the safety aspect.


It is a current limited circuit breaker designed to stop the motor from trying to keep going when the window is fully up or fully down. Removing this protection will aid in burning up the motor. If you keep your finger on the switch after the window stops the motor will keep trying to go further! This circuit breaker is mounted internally to the motor if you short it out the motor is useless!

Actually the device that is internal to the motor is a current limiter and not a circuit breaker. Although the motor would indeed burn up if the switch was closed for a long time, the fix has worked OK for me since I made it a couple of years ago. But I am inclined to take some chances rather than spend the $ for a replacement. Just don't get your head stuck in the window. :eek7: