91 Si Hatch
Amish_kid
11-20-2003, 10:52 AM
I'm looking to buy one atm and I'm wondering if there is anything I should look out for on the car itself I means the body is decent and it only has a little over 200km anything problematic with these models?
thanks
thanks
ci5ic
11-20-2003, 12:13 PM
I'm looking to buy one atm and I'm wondering if there is anything I should look out for on the car itself I means the body is decent and it only has a little over 200km anything problematic with these models?
thanks
Mainly just the typical stuff with these cars since they are 11-14 years old. Rust, particularly at the rear-wheels.
Depending on the condition of the car, you may end up having to replace a few suspension components, but nothing too serious.
thanks
Mainly just the typical stuff with these cars since they are 11-14 years old. Rust, particularly at the rear-wheels.
Depending on the condition of the car, you may end up having to replace a few suspension components, but nothing too serious.
Amish_kid
11-20-2003, 12:26 PM
Thanks and another thing, what just like the average you'd have to pay for front end parts and brake parts - labor.( I get it fo' Free! )
amy@af
11-20-2003, 12:27 PM
Depending on the condition of the car, you may end up having to replace a few suspension components, but nothing too serious.
try and find one that hasn't been lowered and you'll have less suspension to replace ;). my current si is the only hatch i ever bought (to keep) pre-lowered. i must have bumped my head. as soon as the lowering springs came out and the coilovers & camber kits in (to go lower :naughty: ) the suspension started to wear. the struts were toast within weeks.
a good rule of thumb i follow when buying a car is.....if it looks like a race car, chances are it was hammered like a race car. i like to buy unmolested grocery getters.....then molest them :evillol:
try and find one that hasn't been lowered and you'll have less suspension to replace ;). my current si is the only hatch i ever bought (to keep) pre-lowered. i must have bumped my head. as soon as the lowering springs came out and the coilovers & camber kits in (to go lower :naughty: ) the suspension started to wear. the struts were toast within weeks.
a good rule of thumb i follow when buying a car is.....if it looks like a race car, chances are it was hammered like a race car. i like to buy unmolested grocery getters.....then molest them :evillol:
ci5ic
11-20-2003, 12:38 PM
try and find one that hasn't been lowered and you'll have less suspension to replace ;). my current si is the only hatch i ever bought (to keep) pre-lowered. i must have bumped my head. as soon as the lowering springs came out and the coilovers & camber kits in (to go lower :naughty: ) the suspension started to wear. the struts were toast within weeks.
a good rule of thumb i follow when buying a car is.....if it looks like a race car, chances are it was hammered like a race car. i like to buy unmolested grocery getters.....then molest them :evillol:
Ami likes deflowering civic virgins. :evillol:
a good rule of thumb i follow when buying a car is.....if it looks like a race car, chances are it was hammered like a race car. i like to buy unmolested grocery getters.....then molest them :evillol:
Ami likes deflowering civic virgins. :evillol:
Amish_kid
11-20-2003, 12:46 PM
try and find one that hasn't been lowered and you'll have less suspension to replace ;). my current si is the only hatch i ever bought (to keep) pre-lowered. i must have bumped my head. as soon as the lowering springs came out and the coilovers & camber kits in (to go lower :naughty: ) the suspension started to wear. the struts were toast within weeks.
a good rule of thumb i follow when buying a car is.....if it looks like a race car, chances are it was hammered like a race car. i like to buy unmolested grocery getters.....then molest them :evillol:
Yeah it's not lowered nor does it look like it's been "molested" just has a bra on it and I the current owner is probably in his 70's and the rust that would be on the car isn't bad just a wee little bubble on the passenger side rear quarter, which can be fixed with some sand paper and a little bit of primer and paint.
****** And another thing is it hard to drive if your tall I mean I'm over 6' would that be considered a bad thing with a car like this?******
a good rule of thumb i follow when buying a car is.....if it looks like a race car, chances are it was hammered like a race car. i like to buy unmolested grocery getters.....then molest them :evillol:
Yeah it's not lowered nor does it look like it's been "molested" just has a bra on it and I the current owner is probably in his 70's and the rust that would be on the car isn't bad just a wee little bubble on the passenger side rear quarter, which can be fixed with some sand paper and a little bit of primer and paint.
****** And another thing is it hard to drive if your tall I mean I'm over 6' would that be considered a bad thing with a car like this?******
outofstep
11-20-2003, 01:09 PM
im 5' 10'' and i love my hatch so i dont think being tall is a problem, and my hatch is like 2 inches off the ground too hehe
Dumped91Hatch
11-20-2003, 01:15 PM
I'm 6'4" and I don't have a problem with my hatch.
Amish_kid
11-20-2003, 03:53 PM
And another thing I kinda forgot to ask and can't really seem to find a straight answer what are the specs for it? :icon16:
amy@af
11-21-2003, 11:41 AM
And another thing I kinda forgot to ask and can't really seem to find a straight answer what are the specs for it? :icon16:
1590cc
4 cyl, 16valve
SOHC
9.1:1 compression ratio
Power: 108 bhp @ 6000
Redline: 7100 rpm
Torque: 100 lb-ft @ 5000
1590cc
4 cyl, 16valve
SOHC
9.1:1 compression ratio
Power: 108 bhp @ 6000
Redline: 7100 rpm
Torque: 100 lb-ft @ 5000
91HBSi
11-21-2003, 12:44 PM
Like someone else said, it should just be the usual stuff. If I were you, I would check things like...
-Underneath the engine bay to see if there are any oil leaks
-The rust thing
-Drive it until the engine warms up nicely to see if things like grinds in the tranny occur (syncros)
-Make sure the a/c blows cold
-Any bad knocking (may be a rod). Normal valve chatter is nothing to worry about.
-Make sure the check engine light is not coming on, if so ask owner what the problem is. There is also a light under the passenger side carpet that will trow off a sequence of flashes indicating a particular problem. You can probably call a honda dealer to see what the code means.
That should be about it.
-Underneath the engine bay to see if there are any oil leaks
-The rust thing
-Drive it until the engine warms up nicely to see if things like grinds in the tranny occur (syncros)
-Make sure the a/c blows cold
-Any bad knocking (may be a rod). Normal valve chatter is nothing to worry about.
-Make sure the check engine light is not coming on, if so ask owner what the problem is. There is also a light under the passenger side carpet that will trow off a sequence of flashes indicating a particular problem. You can probably call a honda dealer to see what the code means.
That should be about it.
darolh
11-21-2003, 06:03 PM
I have 165k+ miles on mine and all I've had to do is replace the alternator, main relay, brakes, headlight/turn sig switch, and timing belt. I have owned the car since 56k miles.
They're great cars. My original shocks are still good!!!!
They're great cars. My original shocks are still good!!!!
Amish_kid
11-21-2003, 07:11 PM
Like someone else said, it should just be the usual stuff. If I were you, I would check things like...
-Underneath the engine bay to see if there are any oil leaks
-The rust thing
-Drive it until the engine warms up nicely to see if things like grinds in the tranny occur (syncros)
-Make sure the a/c blows cold
-Any bad knocking (may be a rod). Normal valve chatter is nothing to worry about.
-Make sure the check engine light is not coming on, if so ask owner what the problem is. There is also a light under the passenger side carpet that will trow off a sequence of flashes indicating a particular problem. You can probably call a honda dealer to see what the code means.
That should be about it.
Thanks will do and ha A/c is for wussies and just steals power from the motor even if it works its coming off the car if I get it. Whatever rust I did see was very minimal and on the surface so all that means is that I break out the sanding disc on the angle grinder, prime it and paint the spots
-Underneath the engine bay to see if there are any oil leaks
-The rust thing
-Drive it until the engine warms up nicely to see if things like grinds in the tranny occur (syncros)
-Make sure the a/c blows cold
-Any bad knocking (may be a rod). Normal valve chatter is nothing to worry about.
-Make sure the check engine light is not coming on, if so ask owner what the problem is. There is also a light under the passenger side carpet that will trow off a sequence of flashes indicating a particular problem. You can probably call a honda dealer to see what the code means.
That should be about it.
Thanks will do and ha A/c is for wussies and just steals power from the motor even if it works its coming off the car if I get it. Whatever rust I did see was very minimal and on the surface so all that means is that I break out the sanding disc on the angle grinder, prime it and paint the spots
91HBSi
11-24-2003, 10:24 AM
If being a man requires riding around all summer with a sweaty butt, then I'd rather be a wuss. If this was my secondary car, then I would tear the a/c out, but until it is... I'm keeping mine
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