Opinions on trade deal and body work

A kid offered to trade me his 89 CRX Dx w/ B16 swap for my 91 HB Dx turbo.

His car has a B16A1, IDK what mounts, shift linkage, or ECM (bought it that way and he doesn't know, says it has a chip tho), it has 2.25" exhaust, header, intake, 15" rota's + 2 w/ 555r's, slammed on cheap coilovers w/ stock shocks, primer grey w/ blue interior. He paid $3600.

My Civic has a MPFI swap, JUST swapped in a low milage A6 and si trans, completely custom turbo kit w/ FMIC, 450cc injectors, VAFC (switching to standalone), Sus tech springs w/ newer OEM replacement shocks, front upper/lower & rear strut bars, custom guage cluster (in pic), some old school honda mugen style 13s + the steelies, almost perfect paint (only 2 sq in of rust), 2.5" custom exhaust. Basically $4k in parts, I know I missed something. I was asking $4k.

Does that sound like a good deal?

Also on the CRX Si I have now (If I trade the HB, I will sell my Si and above rex) I am thinking about the body. I am painting it flat black, no matter what (even tho I had brand new proffsional paint job in August). i was thinking G2 altezzas (carbon/black back ground), black bumper lights, black corners, and black halo projectors. Then I stumbled across a 96+ civic conversion and was thinking about doing the same thing but w/ black civic projectors instead. Opinions?

I'll post the "how to" I found next.

Thanks.

How to do a 99/00 Honda Civic Front End Conversion

Parts Needed:
1. Hood
2. Fenders
3. Core Support
4. Bumper
5. Headlights

STEP 1
1. Take off your stock bumper, headlights, corner lights, hood, and fenders.
2. Put on the 99 civic hood, it bolts directly on with 4 bolts. Leave it propped open for now.
3. Remove everything from core support.
-Lift off the radiator and A/C condenser and allow them to hang.
-No weight may be on the core support.

STEP 2
1. Drill out all the spot welds from the stock core support.
2. Remove the core support, it should come free easily, if not make sure all the spot welds have been removed.
3. Using a grinding or sanding wheel to clean up the old spot welds.
4. Test fit the new core support on the car.
5. Put the new headlights in the core support with just the 2 upper bolts.
6. Close the hood and match the headlights to the hood line as best as possible
7. Once this is accomplished temporarily attach it (screw or tack weld).
-Note that the headlights may need to be adjusted by for perfect alignment with the hood.
8. Weld the core support on securely.
9. The radiator brackets on the core support may need to be moved.

STEP 3
1. Cut your stock fender about ½ inch in front of (towards the headlight) the mudguard mounting tab.
2. Cut the conversion fender about one inch behind (towards the door) that tab.
3. Temporarily remount your stock fender.
4. Placing the conversion fender over your stock fender, align it with the headlight. Overlap about ¾ of an inch.
5. The conversion fenders will not have the same wheel well arc.
-You will need to do some bending
6. Cut the tab off of the conversion fenders, it will not be needed since your stock fenders have them.
7. Using C-clamps, hold the bottom and top of the fenders together, make any final adjustments at this time.
-Make sure the hood line is straight as possible, this may require hammering.
8. The wheel arc will be a little off. (the conversion fender will be a slightly longer).
-Don’t worry about this until your fender is mostly welded.
9. Remove all paint from the surfaces to be welded; ½ inch on either side of the cut will be sufficient.
10. Starting at the top, run a full bead down the fender
11. Remove the fenders from the car, and weld the reverse side as well.
12. Cut the excess (if there is any) off of the fender, following you stock fenders wheel arc.
10. Grind down the welds on the outside of the fender; make sure that there are no protruding welds.
-Tip: The grinder can be used to re-shape arcs and fade out the weld.

STEP 4
1. Use Acetone or another degreaser to clean the surface.
3. Apply an even coat and fade in the overlap, avoid thick edges in the bondo, it just makes more work to sand.
-In the time it takes to apply bondo to one side, the other side will be ready for another coat.
4. Shave the high spots using a cheese grater.
5. Starting with a low grit (about 40 grit) make the fenders smooth, if you go to far, add more bondo.
-You can use bondo to smooth out the wheel arches as well.
6. Use glaze/spot filler to get it perfectly smooth. Put the glaze on fairly light and even.
-Make sure not to leave thick edges in the glaze as well.
3. Don’t worry about small scratches in the filler; a heavy coat of primer will take car of this.


My goal was the ultimate daily driver, and this makes it look like a "4G" CRX, I am having trouble deciding tho.

http://hometown.aol.com/reddevilimport/images/pic003.jpg
Link (http://hometown.aol.com/reddevilimport/index.html)

Just checked ebay for prices on the conversion...

Stock front:
projectors-180
bumpers-15
corners-15
total-210+shipping

96+ front
jdm black headlights-85
bumper-100
fenders-60
total-245+shipping
also need the rad support, hoodpins, and the main support thing.

Still very close in price.